Brief:
A short fat rocket capable o' flyin' on H through J engines.

Construction:
All components were standard LOC components.

• 1 Huge plastic nose cone
• 1 7.67 inch. Arrr! Ya scallywag! diameter paper bodytube
• 1 38mm paper motor mount tube
• 2 7.5-1.5 inch plywood centerin' rings
• 4 1/4 inch Plywood fins
• 1 54 inch nylon parachute
• 1 Eyebolt assembly
• 1 1/4 inch paper launch lug
• 1 9/16 tubular nylon shock cord w/pre-sewn loops

I purchased this rocket from Commonwealth Displays for use as me L1 certification rocket. Blimey! Begad! I built it stock but added a 38mm Aero Pack motor retainer, a Nomex® heat shield, and a forged eyebolt.

After readin' t' minimalist instructions and inspectin' t' parts, me bucko, me bucko, I began construction by drillin' a hole in t' forward centerin' rin' and installin' t' forged eye bolt which I had purchased separately. (T' kit came with a cheap, inadequate eyebolt which be nay strong enough for a rocket o' this size.) I then glued t' two centerin' rings in place usin' West Systems epoxy. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' aft centerin' was installed slightly further forward than t' instructions recommended so that t' Aero Pack retainer would fit. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! While t' epoxy dried, I decided t' slot t' tubes. Ahoy! After markin' out t' slots with a pencil, ya bilge rat, I used a sharp X-Acto knife and a metal ruler t' carefully cut t' slots. Well, blow me down! Blimey! While time consuming, this step is nay particularly difficult as long as you take your time and do nay attempt t' cut through t' tube on your first pass. Blimey! It took me about a 1/2 hour t' cut t' slots. After t' epoxy on t' motor mount had hardened, arrr, I flipped it over and applied more epoxy t' t' other side o' t' centerin' rings. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! I also locked t' eyebolt in place with a drop o' epoxy. Avast! Blimey! T' next day, arrr, me hearties, I installed t' motor mount into t' tube and epoxied t' aft centerin' rin' in place. Ya scallywag! Blimey! After t' epoxy had cured, I flipped t' rocket over and epoxied t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey! While t' assembly had dried, me hearties, matey, shiver me timbers, I airfoiled t' fins usin' a belt sander. Aye aye! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! Unfortunately, t' fins do nay reach t' motor mount. Begad! Blimey! (Current kits now use LOC's Loc-N-Fin technology which rectifies this problem.) After tackin' t' fins in place with a few drops o' CA, shiver me timbers, I used a little epoxy t' permanently attach t' fins. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! T' method I use for fin filletin' is simple and effective but takes 4 days t' do on a 4 fin rocket. Basically, arrr, me hearties, I lie t' rocket on t' ground so that two fins are facin' upwards and then use a West Systems Syringe t' squirt West Systems epoxy in a line where t' fin meets t' tube. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Blimey! (Do nay try this with t' cheap epoxy you can buy at t' hardware store.) T' epoxy naturally flows t' form a perfect fillet. Aye aye! I then check on t' rocket every ten minutes for an hour and wipe t' epoxy that has dripped off o' t' forward and aft parts o' t' fin with a paper towel. Blimey! T' next day I rotate t' rocket t' t' next set o' fins and repeat. While it has t' be done over a period o' several days, t' actual amount o' time and effort this takes is minimal and t' results are consistently perfect. T' attach t' shock cord t' t' nose cone, me hearties, ya bilge rat, me bucko, I deviated from t' instructions and drilled two 1/2 inch holes in t' nose cone. Avast! I waited t' actually install t' recovery system and Aero Pack until after I had finished paintin' t' rocket.

After finishin' t' rocket, I removed t' maskin' tape that I had wrapped around t' end o' t' motor mount and attached t' Aero Pack with JB Weld. I then hooked up t' recovery system. Begad! First I threaded t' shock cord through t' 2 holes I had drilled in t' nose cone and pull one end o' t' shock cord through t' loop on t' other end. I then slid t' shock cord through t' hole in t' Nomex heatshield and used t' included quicklink t' attach t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt installed in t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! I then used t' standard attachment method on t' parachute (around t' shock cord and through itself) t' attach t' parachute, finishin' t' rocket.

Pros:

• Simple but effective construction
• Wood components (fins & centerin' rings) were high quality
• A very nice shock cord

Cons:

• Minimal instructions
• No motor retention included
• Eyebolt inadequate for high power flights
• No precut fin slots
• Fins do nay reach motor mount (since I built this kit, it has been redesigned with Loc-N-Fin Technology)

Finishing:
I decided t' go all out on t' paint job for this rocket, so I spent about three weeks finishin' it.

I started by fillin' in t' tube spirals with watered down Elmer's Wood Filler. Blimey! After sandin' off t' excess wood filler with 100 grit sandpaper, shiver me timbers, I primed t' rocket with gray Krylon Primer. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I then sanded this down with 220 grit sandpaper and applied another layer o' primer. After repeatin' this several times (durin' later coats I wet sanded), me hearties, I finally had a near perfect finish. Well, blow me down! I then painted t' body o' t' rocket with yellow Krylon and t' nose cone with red Krylon paint. I applied several coats, wetsandin' betwixt coats with 400 grit sandpaper. Aye aye! Ahoy! After finishin' paintin' t' body o' t' rocket yellow, me hearties, ya bilge rat, I masked off t' top and bottom o' t' rocket with 40mm Tamiya maskin' tape (this be t' extremely high grade kind) and covered t' rest o' t' rocket by tapin' garbage bags on with cheap maskin' tape. Well, blow me down! I then painted t' top and bottom o' t' rocket red. After I had applied several coats o' red and it had dried, I carefully removed t' maskin' tape. Begad! I then masked off t' ends o' t' rocket again and painted it with Krylon black. Blimey! Well, blow me down! After removin' t' maskin' tape and garbage bags, shiver me timbers, I painted t' entire rocket with Krylon clear coat.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
I first flew this rocket at NOVAAR for me L1 certification flight. Avast, me proud beauty! After packin' t' recovery system, loadin' t' Aerotech I211 motor, me bucko, matey, and passin' t' RSO's safety check, ya bilge rat, I loaded t' rocket onto t' pad. Ahoy! T' flight was absolutely beautiful until t' motor suffered a premature ejection almost immediately after burn out. Arrr! Aye aye! Despite t' early ejection, matey, I still thought that I had successfully certified until I reached t' rocket, which landed within 50ft o' t' pad, me hearties, me hearties, where I discovered that t' shock cord had torn an enormous 24 inch zipper in t' body tube.

Fortunately I be able t' certify at t' same launch with a stock LOC Lil' Nuke which I happened t' have with me and an H128. Ya scallywag! (Note: I don't recommend this as t' rocket barely survived t' flight.)

I was able t' repair t' rocket usin' part o' a LOC coupler and some fiberglass. Well, blow me down! T' rocket isn't perfectly round anymore, arrr, but it still flies perfectly and you can't tell from more than 10ft away.

Since t' mishap, me bucko, I have flown t' rocket once more at a METRA launch on another I211. T' flight was beautiful and t' parachute ejected at t' correct time.

Recovery:
As long as t' motor retention and parachute protection are added, this rocket has perfect flights. Because o' it's shape and size, it's a good low flyin' rocket for smaller club fields.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a great lookin' rocket. It could be improved (motor retention, ya bilge rat, me bucko, precut fin slots, parachute protection, me bucko, me bucko, shiver me timbers, better instructions, etc.) but can by upgraded by any flyer with a lot o' mid or high power experience into a fantastic rocket. Blimey! Arrr! I would definitely recommend this kit.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5