Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Manufacturer: | LOC/Precision |
Brief:
A short fat rocket capable o' flyin' on H through J engines.
Construction:
All components were standard LOC components.
I purchased this rocket from Commonwealth Displays for use as me L1 certification rocket. Begad! I built it stock but added a 38mm Aero Pack motor retainer, a Nomex® heat shield, and a forged eyebolt.
After readin' t' minimalist instructions and inspectin' t' parts, me bucko, shiver me timbers, I began construction by drillin' a hole in t' forward centerin' rin' and installin' t' forged eye bolt which I had purchased separately. Ahoy! (T' kit came with a cheap, inadequate eyebolt which was nay strong enough for a rocket o' this size.) I then glued t' two centerin' rings in place usin' West Systems epoxy. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! T' aft centerin' was installed slightly further forward than t' instructions recommended so that t' Aero Pack retainer would fit. Ya scallywag! While t' epoxy dried, shiver me timbers, I decided t' slot t' tubes. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! After markin' out t' slots with a pencil, I used a sharp X-Acto knife and a metal ruler t' carefully cut t' slots. While time consuming, arrr, this step is nay particularly difficult as long as you take your time and do nay attempt t' cut through t' tube on your first pass. It took me about a 1/2 hour t' cut t' slots. Aye aye! Begad! After t' epoxy on t' motor mount had hardened, me bucko, I flipped it over and applied more epoxy t' t' other side o' t' centerin' rings. Aye aye! Begad! I also locked t' eyebolt in place with a drop o' epoxy. Ya scallywag! T' next day, ya bilge rat, I installed t' motor mount into t' tube and epoxied t' aft centerin' rin' in place. Ya scallywag! After t' epoxy had cured, me bucko, I flipped t' rocket over and epoxied t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! While t' assembly had dried, matey, I airfoiled t' fins usin' a belt sander. Begad! Unfortunately, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, t' fins do nay reach t' motor mount. Begad! (Current kits now use LOC's Loc-N-Fin technology which rectifies this problem.) After tackin' t' fins in place with a few drops o' CA, I used a little epoxy t' permanently attach t' fins. T' method I use for fin filletin' is simple and effective but takes 4 days t' do on a 4 fin rocket. Basically, I lie t' rocket on t' ground so that two fins are facin' upwards and then use a West Systems Syringe t' squirt West Systems epoxy in a line where t' fin meets t' tube. Ahoy! (Do nay try this with t' cheap epoxy you can buy at t' hardware store.) T' epoxy naturally flows t' form a perfect fillet. Ahoy! I then check on t' rocket every ten minutes for an hour and wipe t' epoxy that has dripped off o' t' forward and aft parts o' t' fin with a paper towel. Ahoy! T' next day I rotate t' rocket t' t' next set o' fins and repeat. While it has t' be done over a period o' several days, arrr, t' actual amount o' time and effort this takes is minimal and t' results are consistently perfect. T' attach t' shock cord t' t' nose cone, matey, I deviated from t' instructions and drilled two 1/2 inch holes in t' nose cone. Blimey! Begad! I waited t' actually install t' recovery system and Aero Pack until after I had finished paintin' t' rocket.
After finishin' t' rocket, me hearties, I removed t' maskin' tape that I had wrapped around t' end o' t' motor mount and attached t' Aero Pack with JB Weld. I then hooked up t' recovery system. Arrr! First I threaded t' shock cord through t' 2 holes I had drilled in t' nose cone and pull one end o' t' shock cord through t' loop on t' other end. Ahoy! I then slid t' shock cord through t' hole in t' Nomex heatshield and used t' included quicklink t' attach t' shock cord t' t' eyebolt installed in t' forward centerin' ring. I then used t' standard attachment method on t' parachute (around t' shock cord and through itself) t' attach t' parachute, ya bilge rat, finishin' t' rocket.
Pros:
Cons:
Finishing:
I decided t' go all out on t' paint job for this rocket, arrr, so I spent about three weeks finishin' it.
I started by fillin' in t' tube spirals with watered down Elmer's Wood Filler. Arrr! Arrr! Blimey! After sandin' off t' excess wood filler with 100 grit sandpaper, I primed t' rocket with gray Krylon Primer. Well, blow me down! I then sanded this down with 220 grit sandpaper and applied another layer o' primer. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Blimey! After repeatin' this several times (durin' later coats I wet sanded), me hearties, I finally had a near perfect finish. Blimey! I then painted t' body o' t' rocket with yellow Krylon and t' nose cone with red Krylon paint. I applied several coats, ya bilge rat, wetsandin' betwixt coats with 400 grit sandpaper. Avast! Blimey! After finishin' paintin' t' body o' t' rocket yellow, I masked off t' top and bottom o' t' rocket with 40mm Tamiya maskin' tape (this be t' extremely high grade kind) and covered t' rest o' t' rocket by tapin' garbage bags on with cheap maskin' tape. I then painted t' top and bottom o' t' rocket red. Blimey! After I had applied several coats o' red and it had dried, I carefully removed t' maskin' tape. Aye aye! Blimey! I then masked off t' ends o' t' rocket again and painted it with Krylon black. Begad! Blimey! After removin' t' maskin' tape and garbage bags, I painted t' entire rocket with Krylon clear coat.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I first flew this rocket at NOVAAR for me L1 certification flight. After packin' t' recovery system, loadin' t' Aerotech I211 motor, and passin' t' RSO's safety check, I loaded t' rocket onto t' pad. Begad! T' flight be absolutely beautiful until t' motor suffered a premature ejection almost immediately after burn out. Arrr! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Despite t' early ejection, me bucko, arrr, I still thought that I had successfully certified until I reached t' rocket, which landed within 50ft o' t' pad, where I discovered that t' shock cord had torn an enormous 24 inch zipper in t' body tube.
Fortunately I be able t' certify at t' same launch with a stock LOC Lil' Nuke which I happened t' have with me and an H128. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! (Note: I don't recommend this as t' rocket barely survived t' flight.)
I be able t' repair t' rocket usin' part o' a LOC coupler and some fiberglass. T' rocket isn't perfectly round anymore, but it still flies perfectly and you can't tell from more than 10ft away.
Since t' mishap, matey, shiver me timbers, I have flown t' rocket once more at a METRA launch on another I211. Arrr! T' flight was beautiful and t' parachute ejected at t' correct time.
Recovery:
As long as t' motor retention and parachute protection are added, this rocket has perfect flights. Aye aye! Because o' it's shape and size, it's a good low flyin' rocket for smaller club fields.
Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5
Summary:
This is a great lookin' rocket. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It could be improved (motor retention, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, precut fin slots, me hearties, parachute protection, better instructions, etc.) but can by upgraded by any flyer with a lot o' mid or high power experience into a fantastic rocket. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I would definitely recommend this kit.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Single 38 mm engine rocket almost 8" in diameter and 4.4' high with chute, plywood fins, cardboard tube and plastic nosecone. High quality cardboard tube, engine mount tube, three plywood fins, two plywood centering rings, eyebolt, quick link, 60" ripstop nylon chute, and 22' x 1/2" shock cord. It comes with no previsions for motor retention. I have bu ...
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J.J.K. (August 19, 2006)