Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 3.00 inches |
Manufacturer: | Sheri's Hot Rockets ![]() |
Style: | Scale |
Brief:
Scale, ya bilge rat, Midpower, ya bilge rat, Parachute Recovery
Sheri's Mercury Redstone is an impressive lookin' rocket on her website. Begad! Aye aye! It's also fairly impressive when t' box shows up on t' doorstep. Ahoy! After delayin' for a while, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I decided t' get this one started.
Construction:
T' first step in construction is t' read through t' instructions. Ya scallywag! They are long, but easy t' read and doin' so helps one understand steps that will upcoming.
T' first real "construction" thin' t' do is t' fish out the two plywood centerin' rings and a 3/4" square o' plywood. Begad! T' plywood was epoxied onto one o' t' rings in order t' strengthen it for t' mountin' o' an eye bolt for t' recovery harness. Ya scallywag! I used 15 minute epoxy here because I grabbed t' wrong bottles.
When t' epoxy was set up, I was instructed t' drill a hole through t' center o' t' block and through t' rin' t' which it was mounted t' receive t' bolt. Well, blow me down! Begad! A 1/4" hole was drilled.
T' hole bein' drilled, matey, it was a simple matter t' insert t' receiver for t' bolt and epoxy it into place. It's teeth were forced into t' plywood with a pair o' pliers. Well, blow me down! I mixed some five-minute epoxy and prepared t' seat t' bolt. Begad! Unfortunately, ya bilge rat, I did nay pay enough attention and mounted t' receiver on t' wrong side. By t' time I had discovered what I had done, me hearties, it was too late and t' epoxy had set.
T' centerin' rin' without t' bolt was mounted in t' body tube flush with one end. Blimey! It was mounted with five-minute epoxy and a fillet be applied around t' perimeter.
T' other centerin' ring, t' one with t' bolt, was mounted in t' body tube six inches from t' forward end. It too was mounted and filleted with five-minute epoxy and it be ensured that t' rin' o' t' bolt was facin' forward.
T' kit came with four plywood fins and a styrene fin template along with a sheet o' styrene from which t' cut...fins! As it happens, t' plywood is just for t' core o' some built up fins.
T' fin template was used t' transfer t' outline o' t' fins t' t' sheet styrene for eight instances. T' instruction recommended t' use t' template as a guide t' score t' styrene with a razor knife and then flex it t' make clean breaks. Avast, me proud beauty! T' scorin' and flexin' idea worked well for me. Usin' t' template as a guide t' do this did nay work so well. Ya scallywag! Blimey! For me, me bucko, it be much easier t' use a steel rule as a guide for t' scoring. Ahoy! That kept me poor template in better shape as well.
A fact that may be worrisome, me bucko, for somebody who does nay READ t' instructions, matey, is that t' styrene fins are somewhat larger than t' plywood cores. There is a good reason for this. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! T' plywood core is set flush against t' base and root edge o' t' styrene. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' styrene is then lightly scored with t' razor along t' leadin' edge. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' rudders on t' outer edge are also scored and then snapped off and saved for later.
T' styrene along t' angled leadin' edge o' t' fins was scored but nay snapped off. Blimey! Begad! T' scorin' was t' facilitate bendin' an angle into t' leadin' edge. Arrr! Begad! After tryin' several methods o' gettin' this right, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me bucko, t' one that worked best for me was t' put t' plywood core into place and then gently bend t' plastic towards t' centerline o' t' fin.
When all o' t' angles were formed, ya bilge rat, t' styrene was glued t' t' plywood cores usin' CA. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' resultin' bevel actually looked pretty good even if it was nay yet "perfect".
At this point, ya bilge rat, t' plywood cores were sandwiched betwixt styrene sheets and bonded with CA. Begad! T' bevels on t' leadin' edges o' t' fins still had t' be dealt with though. This be easily done with t' application o' a solvent type o' plastic cement. I used Plastruct. Begad! This welded t' leadin' edges together and healed all gaps.
T' Redstone had another little detail betwixt t' fins and t' rudders. This kit builds that "thingamabob" out o' styrene as well. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! T' template must be cut from t' plan that is provided. Well, blow me down! It is then laid on t' styrene t' trace t' outline four times. Ahoy! I scored t' styrene with a razor knife and steel rule. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! I found this much more difficult that cuttin' t' fins themselves.
T' thingamabobs were test fitted onto t' fins and it be found that in each case, me cuttin' left somethin' t' be desired. Well, blow me down! All fit all right towards t' bottom, but each had t' have t' top opened up a bit more. Blimey! When they all fit, shiver me timbers, CA was used t' cement them t' t' fin cores. Begad! When t' CA had dried, solvent cement be used t' join t' plastic t' that o' t' fins.
With t' thingamabobs in place, t' rudders came next. Avast, me proud beauty! They were formed from t' pieces o' styrene that were cut from t' fins a few steps before and assembled in a similar manner. I held each piece flush against t' bottom and inner edges and used t' razor knife t' score a line. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Half were scored on one side and half on t' other. Ya scallywag! T' plastic be then gently bent t' form t' angle usin' t' plywood core as a straightedge.
After bending, me bucko, t' styrene rudder tabs were glued t' t' plywood cores with CA. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! When t' CA had set, solvent cement was used t' join t' edges along t' angled leadin' edges and t' joint with t' thingamabobs. T' results were much less than perfect and almost all o' t' problems were with t' thingamabobs. Ya scallywag! I had nay gotten them as well as t' other pieces.
Before cappin' off t' rudders, I needed t' clean them up a bit. Blimey! I used a sandin' board t' take down t' excess material and get t' edges o' t' styrene t' line up with t' edges o' t' cores. I then used liquid solvent cement t' glue on scraps o' styrene t' t' outer edges, leavin' plenty o' overhang. Ahoy! When I tried t' remove t' excess material, though, I found that t' joint betwixt t' plastic pieces was nay handlin' t' abuse. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! This was rectified by puttin' a small amount o' CA on t' tips o' t' rudder cores and then solvent weldin' t' edges o' t' plastic.
With t' tips re-applied and now holdin' firm, me hearties, I trimmed t' excess material by first scorin' around t' perimeter with a razor knife and then usin' t' sandin' board t' remove smaller humps. Aye aye! There were a few gaps and bulges but I figured that t' fairin' process would take care o' that.
From a distance, shiver me timbers, t' fins looked pretty good, matey, me bucko, certainly better than most things that come out o' me shop, ya bilge rat, me hearties, matey, but thar were some flaws that bothered me. Arrr! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! A few places had gaps betwixt t' pieces o' styrene. I applied Squadron green putty t' t' offendin' area and let t' fins cure for a few days.
When t' few days were up, me hearties, I went after t' accumulated goop with a will usin' sandpaper, me bucko, me bucko, sandin' sticks and a little jewelers file t' get into those tight corners. A frequent scrubbin' o' t' file with a wire brush was a must as was t' brushin' away o' t' dusty by-products. Begad! I got it t' t' point where I thought that paintin' would make them look "perfect".
T' kit comes with a fin markin' guide in t' form or a wrap around that is cut out o' t' plan sheet. Well, blow me down! I cut it out and taped it in place and found that it fit perfectly. Aye aye! Avast! T' marks for t' four fins were transferred t' t' body tube and t' guide was removed. Well, blow me down! An angle was then used t' extend t' lines from all t' way t' t' aft t' about 8 inches forward. Arrr! A steel ruler was used t' connect opposin' lines across t' after centerin' ring.
T' instructions then had me offset t' fin line by 1/16" t' either side t' accomodate t' width o' t' fins. Aye aye! I know its a very minor point but I would have preferred t' have t' correct offset marked on t' wrap around guide. Aye aye! This is purely me preference and be t' first real thin' I would change, ya bilge rat, but it's so minor that I feel silly even mentionin' it. Ya scallywag! As I said, that would be MY preference.
In any event, ya bilge rat, t' offsets were marked and those lines were extended for t' length o' t' fins. Begad! Blimey! A fresh hobby knife and a steel rule were then used t' score along t' offset lines so that t' vinyl coatin' could be removed in order t' promote better adhesion o' t' fins.
T' instruction made no mention o' this next step but it is somethin' I now do fairly routinely. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I used a drill and made a series o' perforations along t' fin lines t' aid in t' formation o' epoxy rivets. Aye aye! I did t' same thin' with a smaller bit along t' root edge o' t' fins.
All four o' t' fins were mounted usin' 5 minute epoxy. Avast, me proud beauty! A small batch was made for one fin and then a toothpick was used t' trowel it into place along t' BT. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! It was also used t' force epoxy into t' rivet holes. Begad! After that, it was a simple matter t' press t' fin into place, shiver me timbers, check for alignment and hold it in place until t' epoxy set up stiff enough t' hold on its own. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' process was repeated for t' other three fins.
I accidentally got t' forward centerin' rin' a little too far forward so that t' provided motor tube would nay extend far enough; when it be inserted, in just bared touched both centerin' rings without enough overage t' provide any support. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! Fortunately, matey, I had a piece o' LOC motor tubin' sittin' around for a project that has yet t' begin and decided t' cannibalize it. Ahoy! I inserted it so that t' front protruded just a bit from t' forward rin' and then marked t' tube where it had a 1/2" clearance on t' aft ring. Blimey! Blimey! I then made up a mandrel and cut it t' length with a razor knife. Ya scallywag! T' resultin' tube was slid into place and secured with more five-minute epoxy.
If thar be one thin' that surprised me most about this kit it was t' instructions on filleting. I expected t' fillet t' fins with epoxy but t' instructions said t' used plain old white glue. Begad! I decided t' follow t' instructions t' see how it would work out. Avast, me proud beauty! I began layin' in t' fillets, ya bilge rat, lettin' them dry, me bucko, rotatin' t' rocket and doin' it again.
T' tower for t' launch escape system is built up out o' styrene tubing. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Construction o' t' LES begins with takin' t' plan for one o' t' verticals and cuttin' it out t' serve as a backdrop and template. Aye aye! T' template be taped down securely and then three pieces o' 3/16 styrene tubin' were cut t' length usin' t' template as a guide.
T' vertical struts were fabricate one at a time. Ya scallywag! A piece o' t' styrene cut t' length was taped down on top o' t' template. Ahoy! Two further pieces o' t' 3/16 tubin' were cut t' t' length o' t' "Y" at t' bottom o' t' structure. Blimey! Ya scallywag! These were then shaved on one end t' achieve t' desired angle. When they fit well enough, ya bilge rat, they too were taped into place on t' template and t' three pieces were joint with Plastruct solvent cement.
While t' solvent be drying, me bucko, ya bilge rat, a gusset plate t' cover t' joint was cut from .020 styrene. Aye aye! It too be then solvent welded into place over t' joint. Ahoy! Avast! After lettin' it sit for a few minutes, t' structure was taken up, arrr, shiver me timbers, more solvent applied t' t' opposite side and t' entire procedure repeated twice more. Blimey! I should have mentioned that while t' piece was taped down, various depth marks were transferred t' t' tower struts with a felt tip.
T' instructions indicated that t' base o' t' tower was t' be fabricated on a plywood ring. Well, blow me down! I looked in vain for such a piece o' plywood. Aye aye! I did find a resin rin' but t' inner diameter o' t' rin' was different than that shown on t' plans. I contacted Sheri and she assured me that it was t' correct part and be a result o' a design change. Ya scallywag! Still unsure because o' t' amount o' play left in t' 1/8" space betwixt t' rin' and t' capsule, I contacted Sheri again and was reassured that this be correct.
T' resin disk has a bevel t' it so it must be oriented correctly. Blimey! Blimey! I made sure t' beveled side was up and then cut out t' t' template. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey! I taped t' template onto t' upper surface o' t' disk and scrounged around until I found a 3/32" drill bit. Six holes were then drilled in t' places indicated on t' template.
With t' six holes drilled, me hearties, I test fit t' vertical struts o' t' LES tower but did nay glue them at this time, even though this was t' current step in t' instructions. Avast, me proud beauty! I wanted t' make sure about t' fit at t' other end first.
T' upper disk o' t' LES tower is made o' plywood. I cut out its template, taped it into place and drilled t' three holes it calls for. Begad! T' disk be then slid into place at t' upper end o' t' assembly. Begad! Since things seemed t' fit, both ends were secured with CA.
T' horizontal members o' t' LES trusses are made from 1/16" styrene tubing. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' t' plan as a guide for length, matey, I cut t' three upper horizontals. Ya scallywag! I placed them singly at t' marks made earlier doin' one side at a time and usin' Plastruct solvent weld. I let on side dry and then brushed t' other side with a generous amount and squeezed it into place betwixt t' uprights. Begad! Since thar was a bit o' bowing, I used cellophane tape t' hold t' structure tight as it dried.
T' next day, me hearties, matey, I peeled off t' tape and inspected t' results. Begad! It be a start.
Since t' first one worked out, I got started on t' second series o' horizontal members. Ahoy! Blimey! I cut three pieces o' tubin' from t' plan and t' solvent welded them into place, usin' a little tape t' hold t' joints closed. Avast! Blimey! They too came out fine.
While t' solvent welds on t' LES tower were hardenin' up, me hearties, I got t' work on t' Triple Mini Motor. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! It too was fabricated for styrene tubing. Three lengths o' 3/4" long by 1/16" tubin' were cut t' length specified on t' plans. A 3/16" piece and a 1/4" piece were also cut. The three pieces o' 1/16" tubin' were then bundled together and slid inside o' t' 3/16" piece with 3/16" left protruding. Aye aye! Ahoy! They were fixed into place with solvent weld. Aye aye! Once t' three pieces were tacked into place, arrr, ya bilge rat, a razor was used t' separate them and bend t' three small pieces out at a 30 degree angle. T' softenin' from t' Plastruct helped with this. Avast, me proud beauty! This entire assembly was then slid into t' short piece o' 1/4" tubin' that had been cut and solvent welded. T' butt end as gently sanded t' keep everythin' straight.
T' LES tower bein' dry by this point, matey, was inverted and set on its cap. T' Triple Mini assembly be then glued t' t' center o' t' base with CA makin' sure that t' mini nozzles were rotated in such a way as t' be centered on t' LES truss panels.
I tried cuttin' t' first set o' diagonal struts from t' plans but that did nay work out too well. Avast! Each be just a bit too long. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! Fortunately, Sheri is extremely generous in t' materials she packs. Ya scallywag! I re-cut t' diagonals purposefully too long and then started trimmin' them t' fit by a short snip at a time. Arrr! When they seemed t' be t' right length, ya bilge rat, me hearties, arrr, I shaved a bit on one side o' t' end t' give a bit o' a miter and then put it in place with tweezers and Plastruct. T' lower diagonal struts were placed in t' same manner.
I was pretty happy with t' way t' LES had turned out thus far. Blimey! It was nothin' like perfect but it did represent one o' me best efforts t' date. Arrr! It could, however, arrr, be improved a bit. Blimey! Begad! This was t' point when t' truss needed t' be faired and t' instructions gave t' option o' Bondo or Squadron Green putty. Ahoy! Ahoy! I had some o' t' latter and be unfamiliar with t' former so I started pressin' it into place and let it set up for a day.
T' spike at t' top o' t' LES is a built up affair as is most o' this kit. T' top point was formed by takin' a wooden dowel and sandin' a point into it. Arrr! Well, blow me down! T' point was then separated from t' rest o' t' dowel by rollin' under a razor knife. Aye aye! T' base o' t' point was then dressed up a bit with some sandin' and t' point was glued t' t' end o' a styrene tube with CA and set aside.
T' "can" at t' top o' t' LES is also built up. T' kit comes with a short length o' tubin' and this was glued t' scraps o' flat styrene plastic and allowed t' set. Begad! When it be set up, matey, arrr, excess plastic was trimmed away and then sandpaper was used t' round t' caps even with t' edge o' t' tubing.
A 3/32" hole was drilled in t' center o' both end caps o' t' can. Begad! T' spike be then slid through t' top hole and into t' bottom hole so that t' tubin' was flush with t' bottom cap. Aye aye! Blimey! T' styrene was then solvent welded into place.
Goin' back t' t' LES tower, matey, t' Squadron Green goop had hardened and I began t' process o' sandin' it off. Avast, me proud beauty! At various points I used sandpaper and a file triangular file. Arrr! T' X-acto blade was also a friend.
By t' time t' tower be sanded, matey, t' solvent on t' can and spike had plenty o' time t' dry several hundred times over. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' next step be t' begin applyin' t' bands around t' can. These are cut from thin styrene and put into place with CA. Ya scallywag! T' can be laid alongside t' plan and t' lines were marked. Ya scallywag! T' proper width o' styrene was then cut and one end was tacked into place with CA. I wrapped t' strip around t' can and cut it just a bit longer than needed for a complete circumference. Begad! I then whittled and sanded it t' length and finished tackin' it with CA. Arrr! I had gotten t' wide band and part o' t' upper skinny band done when I had t' leave off t' deal with a work issue.
T' plans show that t' can has a single wide band and two skinny ones. Blimey! Well, blow me down! All o' t' photos, however, show 3 o' t' skinny ones in addition t' t' wide one. After considerin' for a while, I decided that I liked t' looks o' the three better than t' two. So it is that when I got a chance t' work on this one again, ya bilge rat, I finished t' unfinished band and then cut another.
T' next step is what really caused me some confusion. Both t' photos in t' instruction and t' plans show two pieces o' styrene with a half circular profile runnin' vertically on t' can, shiver me timbers, 180 degrees from each other. T' text o' t' instructions makes no mention o' them, however. Ahoy! At first I thought this would be fairly simple t' take care of. Avast! Ya scallywag! I laid t' stock material against t' plan and cut two pieces t' lengths. Begad! Ya scallywag! Then, because o' t' plan and t' photos, me bucko, I used sandpaper t' put a rounded point at t' ends o' both o' them.
So far so good. My dilemma came when I laid t' verticals along t' can. Avast, me proud beauty! My intention all along be t' use one o' them t' hide t' seams on t' bands. Ya scallywag! That be fine. Blimey! T' problem was t' gaps betwixt t' verticals and t' can betwixt t' bands. T' instructions did nay say how this was t' be achieved.
I fired off a question t' Sheri expectin' t' hear back from her quickly. Ahoy! Blimey! She had always responded smartly in t' past. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! This time, matey, heard nothin' after three days so I sent a follow up and heard nothing. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I then remembered that me first message had come durin' t' National Sport Launch and I figured that she might be attending. She may also have decided t' take some vacation time afterward. I had t' leave town for a week so I decided t' wait and see what was waitin' for me when I got home. When I did get home, thar was nothing.
Although it seemed a forlorn hope, I decided t' get t' work again on t' off chance I could have this rocket ready for me next club launch. Ahoy! I laid a vertical against t' can and marked with a pencil where t' bandin' was. I then used a combination o' file and razor knife t' try and remove material. It was slow and painstaking. Begad! I finally got t' t' point where I realized that it be nay goin' t' get any better with MY skills and put t' first vertical in place with Plastruct. Ya scallywag! It looked OK from some directions but thar are some big gaps as well. Aye aye! I decided t' wait just a bit more before tacklin' t' other one.
Still wantin' t' work on this one a bit more, I took t' cast resin nozzles for t' LES out o' t' bag. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Two were connected by way o' a sprue and t' third be free and slightly lighter shade. Begad! That posed no problems at all since they are all meant t' be painted. I trimmed off t' excess flash with a razor and then sanded them into round.
Bein' a naturally impatient person, I decided nay t' wait any longer and t' try and place t' second vertical tube in t' same way as t' first. Begad! Blimey! T' results were much t' same and looked OK from a distance but did nay bear close scrutiny. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Naturally, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I heard from Sheri after I had completed t' step.
As it turns out, ya bilge rat, me hearties, she be nay on vacation but be moving. Blimey! Havin' lived through that chaos, matey, shiver me timbers, I understand t' time it took t' get back t' me. In any event, matey, t' recommended procedure was none other than what I had already done except for t' quality o' craftsmanship. That part is just goin' t' take me some more time until me skills get up there.
Since I was unhappy with t' gaps betwixt t' vertical tubes and t' can, ya bilge rat, I used Squadron Green putty t' try and fill them. Ahoy! I forced it into t' gaps and let it dry for a day. Then t' work o' sandin' it down began. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! As I feared, ya bilge rat, this was t' difficult part because o' me own ineptitude and, probably, shiver me timbers, because I lacked t' proper tools. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! I'm nay even sure what t' "proper" tools are. Ahoy! I used a combination approach sanding, ya bilge rat, arrr, carvin' away with an X-acto and foldin' t' sandpaper into semi-stiff little pieces t' get into t' tight areas. Blimey! Eventually, me hearties, it was as good as it was goin' t' get under me auspices. Ya scallywag! T' green looked hideous t' me but I kept remindin' myself that it would be hidden by t' paint and that it looks better than t' gaps.
With t' can completed, matey, t' next step was t' affix it t' t' LES tower. Begad! I set it into place and noticed immediately that it be nay sittin' straight. A close examination revealed that one o' me vertical tower struts be just a touch too long. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Since it had already been glued t' t' cap with CA, I could nay adjust t' cap. Begad! I tried t' remedy it some what by filin' and sandin' down t' high side o' t' cap a bit. Blimey! I probably should have done more but eventually I placed t' can with a few drops o' thick CA.
At this point I thought I was finished with t' LES...but somethin' looked off. Well, blow me down! Then I noticed t' LES nozzles sittin' on t' desk. Arrr! Ahoy! Each o' these was glued into place with some thick CA. Arrr! Begad! I recommend doin' it a few times without t' CA and lookin' at it from several angles t' make sure t' bevel is straight; then use t' CA. Begad! And that completed t' LES.
Finishing:
T' LES tower was primed with 2 coats o' Testor's gray primer. Avast, me proud beauty! That made an immediate difference in t' appearance as it made everythin' uniform and nay t' sick mixture o' green, white and wood product. Blimey! T' instructions on t' can said that I had t' paint within 2 hours or wait 2 days. Avast! Lookin' t' LES over, matey, me bucko, I did nay see where sandin' would be an issue so I gave t' entire structure 2 coats o' Testor's Competition Orange. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! It was actually startin' t' look like somethin' good be goin' t' come o' this endeavor.
Upon examinin' t' decals and finishin' brochure, me bucko, matey, I decided t' go t' easy route and make me rocket a "Liberty Bell 7". T' finishin' guide contains a lot o' information on t' various Mercury capsules. Aye aye! I am nay quite so ambitious as t' try t' implement it all but it is all appreciated.
I started t' decal process on t' LES with two simple ones, a large and small version o' t' Grand Central Rocket Co. Aye aye! Blimey! data. Begad! Blimey! T' larger went on t' side o' t' can and t' smaller on one o' t' nozzles.
Not long after gettin' t' first two decals in place, I realized that I had skipped a step. I brought out some Tamiya silver acrylic paint and painted t' little tubes in t' middle o' t' bottom o' t' LES as per directions.
T' acrylic be given a few minutes t' dry and then t' rest o' t' nozzle writin' decals were put onto t' LES as well as t' small GCR logos.
A few days later, I had t' chance t' apply t' large GCR logos t' t' can. Blimey! Unlike t' text, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, these were highly visible. Begad! One was applied t' each side.
T' resin capsule needed me attention since it had been languishing. Arrr! Avast! T' instructions called for it t' be rinsed in a 50-50 solution o' bleach and water t' get rid o' mold release agents. I just used straight clorox and then rinsed it. Ahoy! After it be dried, I set it up in t' booth and applied Testor's gray primer. Avast, me proud beauty! It was about this time I realized that I had forgotten t' install t' eyescrew so a hole was drilled in t' bottom, a bit o' epoxy put in place and t' screw was tightened into place.
T' body o' t' rocket itself was given a gentle sandin' with #400 paper and then brushed off. Avast! Blimey! It be then placed in t' booth and primed with Testor's gray.
T' primer got two days t' dry and then it was lightly sanded. Begad! T' body o' t' rocket be then painted with two coats o' Testor's gloss white. T' capsule was likewise sanded and then treated to two coats o' Testor's gloss black.
I gave t' main body o' t' rocket a close inspection after t' white paint had dried and found some issues. Avast! Some o' t' styrene needed t' be tacked down better and I did this with t' judicious application o' some CA.
I also found some places where t' white paint had nay completely covered t' gray primer. Ahoy! Ahoy! It be back t' t' booth for more spraying.
T' white had almost a week t' dry before I began any maskin' for t' black roll pattern. Begad! I used a combination o' tape and foil t' make what I hoped was a fair approximation o' t' pattern on t' instructions. Arrr! Then it was off t' t' booth t' spray t' black. When t' maskin' was peeled off, thar were a few places where t' black had misted lightly over t' white but it be nothin' I could nay easily fix. Well, blow me down! It came out better than I had hoped.
I have never been quiet about me preference for decals over stickers. Begad! T' markings for t' capsule on this kit were all waterslides and that was fine by me. Well, blow me down! T' markings for t' main body, ya bilge rat, though, shiver me timbers, were stickers. Begad! They made me rethink me position, me bucko, ya bilge rat, at least in terms o' vinyl and large projects.
I decided t' attempt t' large wrap at t' top o' t' body tube first. Avast! I used an angle t' lightly mark a straight line with a pencil and then peeled t' backing. Begad! I be also a bit annoyed that t' sticker had some paper t' peel off o' t' front as well. Well, blow me down! I was t' learn that this is a GOOD thing. Begad! I lined t' edge o' t' sticker up with t' line I had marked and with t' top o' t' BT and then gently applied it around t' circumference. Arrr! I was pleased with t' way it looked but just a little bit ticked that it did nay wrap all t' way around. Aye aye! Avast! There was a gap o' about 1/8" inch that, fortunately, was on t' white part o' t' roll pattern.
Next up was t' large letterin' for "United" on both sides o' t' rocket. Avast! Aye aye! T' me horror, arrr, I realized that these were individual letters and nay a single sticker and I just KNEW that I would never get t' letterin' lined up right. Ahoy! I began t' transfer tick marks onto t' BT with a pencil, knowin' I would have t' go back and paint or erase them out. Arrr! I be pretty bummed at this point as I began t' peel t' front paper off o' t' letters and had a revelation. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! T' front paper be thar for a reason. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!
I hoped I was right and smoothed t' front paper back down. Begad! I then peeled off t' back paper, me bucko, t' side with t' sticky stuff. Blimey! T' front layer was translucent enough that I could see t' lettering. Ya scallywag! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Usin' t' front paper t' hold everythin' in place, me hearties, I placed t' letters and smoothed them down. Then I peeled t' front paper off and almost cried for joy that I made this discovery before tryin' t' do things t' hard way.
I continued me way down from t' "United" lettering. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I needed t' apply a black band around t' circumference. Avast! This went on easy enough. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! It did nay close all t' way either but t' fit was better than t' roll pattern and only had about a 1/32" gap. Blimey! I be able t' stretch t' vinyl enough t' compensate for that.
T' "States" letterin' came next and it went on as easily as t' "United"'s did. Begad! I was startin' t' like this vinyl stuff.
Next be a narrow black band around t' top o' t' fins. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I looked and looked and could nay find it on t' master sheet for t' vinyl. Begad! Blimey! I finally remembered seein' it in t' box loose. I identified it as automotive pin-striping. Begad! Blimey! This be more than long enough t' go around.
T' final vinyl be t' mission ID. Begad! Begad! I went with MR 8 and placed t' sitckers above each o' t' fins. Begad! Begad! I had four left over and do nay know whether they are extras or if I just could nay find t' correct placement.
With that, t' main body o' t' rocket was done and all that was left was t' capsule.
T' project sat around without any work for a long time because I had ordered a custom chute for it and because I lost t' capsule decals. When t' chute came in, I decided t' make a rush effort t' get it ready for a club launch. Ya scallywag! I had nay put on t' launch lugs earlier because I wanted t' use a linear rail lug. Avast, me proud beauty! T' lug was placed and t' screw holes were marked and drilled. Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! A thin layer o' epoxy was then put on t' bottom o' t' lug and in t' holes and t' lug replaced and t' screws tightened.
T' resin capsule was also a bit tight so I gingerly took it t' t' belt sander and removed some material around t' circumference.
As it turns out, it did nay make that launch because I could nay find t' right motors. Ya scallywag! That gave me t' chance t' find t' capsule decals and get it done right.
As it happens, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, though, Sheri read o' me losin' t' decals on TRF. Aye aye! She contacted me and offered t' send replacements and did so without any charge. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Nay too long after, a package showed up at me house and in it were t' replacement decals for t' capsule along with another decal guide. Blimey! Ya scallywag! I want t' extend a public thanks for t' kindness.
When I got back t' work on t' Redstone, I noticed t' capsule needed some touchin' up before I applied t' decals. Arrr! Blimey! It took it back t' t' booth and sprayed it with black again.
When t' paint had about two days t' dry, me hearties, ya bilge rat, me bucko, I got started on t' final set o' decals for t' capsule. I began with t' "United States" on opposite sides, just t' t' left o' t' hatch and window. Next came t' US flags centered under t' national text. Arrr! I chose t' go with t' Liberty Bell mission because I perceived that it would be easier. Arrr! I don't know how true that really is but its what I did. Begad! T' mission ID tags were centered under t' hatch and window. On one o' them, I managed t' tear off t' "7" and it proved completely irretrievable. Arrr! Well, blow me down! T' final decal for t' capsule be t' crack. Aye aye! Mine isn't located exactly where t' documentation said; thar was nay room for it in that position as I understood it. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Doubtless, shiver me timbers, I got somethin' wrong but I'm goin' more for t' "look and feel" than a real scale model.
Throughout t' later part o' this build, me bucko, matey, somethin' had bothered me about t' LES tower. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Most o' it looked fine but, me bucko, matey, when it was set on t' capsule, it was jarring. Arrr! Aye aye! I finally realized what was botherin' me when Delta IV posted some photos o' his on TRF. My base rin' was painted t' same bright orange as t' rest o' t' tower. Avast! His was black. Begad! His looked much better. Ahoy! I got out some black acrylic and brushed t' base black.
T' acrylic dried smartly and, ya bilge rat, finally, me hearties, t' tower be ready t' be mounted on t' capsule. A bit o' epoxy was put around t' t' o' t' capsule and t' LES was set in place.
T' basis o' me shock mount was a length o' t' extra heavy Keelhaul®©™ tied t' t' internal eyebolt. Avast! Blimey! T' this was tied a length o' heavy braided nylon rope usin' a double sheet bend. Since I wanted t' fly with t' LES attached and I worried about it shearin' under stress, arrr, I decided t' try an idea I had read about and chain stitched both t' Keelhaul®©™ and t' nylon in an attempt t' gentle t' deployment a bit. Ahoy! Blimey! A loop be also tied into t' nylon about 2/3 o' t' way t' t' capsule t' attach t' chute harness. One o' t' things I wanted t' avoid durin' recovery be t' LES hittin' t' ground first. Avast! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! In an attempt t' avoid this, matey, ya bilge rat, I fashioned a harness o' nylon fishin' line t' run back from t' tower t' t' braided nylon so that t' capsule would recover horizontally. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Blimey! With that, I thought me Redstone was done and that it would soon take t' t' air.
I was wrong.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
After completin' t' build, arrr, arrr, me bucko, t' Redstone sat as a hanger queen for a long time due t' two unrelated reasons. Avast, me proud beauty! T' first reason was t' chute. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' kit did nay come with a chute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! I was aware o' this right from t' start.
I wanted t' order a hemispherical, me hearties, multi-gore orange and white chute a la NASA. I contacted K&S Rockets and ordered one from there. Arrr! It came in and was a beauty. Ahoy! It looked really nice. There be only one problem: It would nay fit in t' rocket. Ahoy! Recall that I had messed up with t' motor tube earlier on and t' result be less space for t' chute. Ya scallywag! T' chute I received also had thick nylon shrouds. Begad! I like that for t' sake o' strength but they took up too much room in conjunction with t' chute t' fit.
T' second reason t' rocket sat around for so long is that I had trouble findin' a motor for it. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Orderin' by mail involved extra costs for shippin' and all o' t' local places had no short delays.
Finally, I learned that another member o' me NARRRRR section had t' right motor and no use for it. Well, blow me down! About t' same time, me bucko, I started buildin' a LOC Cyclotron which did come with a chute o' t' correct size and with much thinner shrouds. Ya scallywag! I switched t' chutes, me hearties, got ready t' fly and tragedy struck. I dropped t' capsule on a concrete floor and sheared t' tower.
T' vertical members were cemented back together with Plastruct and then I started t' apply t' missin' horizontals and diagonals again.
I wept.
One o' t' things I learned is that resin does nay bounce well. Blimey! Fortunately, t' damage t' t' capsule was minor and a bit o' brushed on black paint took care o' it.
Finally, t' day o' reckonin' was at hand. Avast! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I installed a Nomex shied and a LOC parachute and then inserted an Aerotech G77-4R motor. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I was thankful that t' motor came with a First Fire Jr. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! igniter and I would nay have t' mess around with copperheads. I took it out t' t' rail, me bucko, set it up and then had t' wait while a lot o' t' LPR traffic cleared out o' t' way.
Finally me turn came and at t' end o' t' countdown t' launch button was pushed. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! For a while, me hearties, I thought I had misfire but I noticed somethin' was happenin' in t' motor. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! Then it roared t' life with a lovely red flame and started t' move. It looked good comin' off t' pad but nay too far up it angled into t' wind and kept climbing. Begad! Blimey! When ejection occurred, I could nay tell that t' chain stitchin' made any difference at all but I did have a successful chute deployment. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I could also tell right away that t' monofilament line used t' try t' keep t' capsule horizontal had nay been up t' t' task. Avast, me proud beauty! T' entire rig spun around on its way down, driftin' much more than I expected along t' way.
T' rocket had a hard landin' even though t' field was fairly soft. Avast, me proud beauty! One fin had popped off and t' LES was gone. Well, blow me down! Lookin' around, one strut o' t' LES be found. Begad! While walkin' back t' t' launch area, matey, I had already resolved t' rebuild t' LES usin' metal tubing. Begad! Begad! I be sorry, arrr, though that t' can portion had been lost. Arrr! Avast! Then a flash o' orange caught me eye and I saw t' can lyin' nay 20 yards from t' pad. Blimey! T' photos show that it was in place durin' t' ascent so me presumption is that t' shock o' t' ejection and chute openin' snapped it off and it fell t' ground nearby by shear, dumb luck.
T' rocket is repairable but will take some work before it can fly again.
Recovery:
Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5
Summary:
While this kit is nay for t' faint o' heart or t' inexperienced, it is quite workable and enjoyable t' build. I learned much that was new and I pushed me personal envelope with t' build. Ffor that I am thankful. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It is a heavy kit and I would be reluctant t' try flyin' it with anythin' less than t' G77 but am lookin' forward t' tryin' it on an H some time.
My big disappointment was with t' LES tower. Begad! It is fragile and, in all fairness, matey, matey, t' instructions mildly suggest that t' rocket be flown without it so I cannot say I was nay warned. Well, blow me down! When I rebuild, me bucko, though, me bucko, I will try t' do it with more durable material that can handle t' shock o' t' chute opening.
Persons interested in followin' t' exploits o' this rocket can do so here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23694991@N03/collections/72157617574666533/
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
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Don Frieders (September 16, 2011)
I enjoyed your review of Sheri's Hot Rockets Mercury Redstone. I just purchesed one from Red Arrow Hobbies at LDRS XXX. Could you check the Flickr link in your article. It appears to be broken. Thanks!