Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, hence t' “jinx”
name. Blimey! Blimey! Part o' t' issues be good old procrastination. Begad! Blimey! But, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), stuck tubes, a crashin' computer that lost me files, ya bilge rat, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
– but it finally flew successfully! Blimey! T' parts arrived late March. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Like a kid giddy at Christmas, shiver me timbers, I opened t' box,
and be surprised by t' amount o' stuff! Blimey!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did was t' weigh t' parts. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! My goal was t' use as much as possible. Ahoy! Based on t' weight, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. Blimey! Blimey! I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood be a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, matey, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, thar was still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, me bucko, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. Arrr! What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Avast! First flight was at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, causin' some major damage. Ahoy! Begad! JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, ya bilge rat, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. Ahoy! T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad.
Durin' t' development, I made up various pieces and taped them together, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Avast, me proud beauty! Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmer’s F&F.
I be tempted t' fly it, but I could nay figure out
1. What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Avast, me proud beauty! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. Well, blow me down! Blimey! How many pieces would it be in after a flight
For version 1.1, ya bilge rat, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well – or just plain water). Once t' water was boiling, I placed t' 1/16” strip o' balsa (it was 2” x 12”) across t' pan. Well, blow me down! Besides satisfyin' me hunger, I was also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wife’s cake savers (one is 10” t' other is 12”). WARNING – that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape
I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, ya bilge rat, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. Blimey! I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Begad! Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, make a mark at 2” on one line and a mark at 1” on t' other. Well, blow me down! For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1” and ½”. Ahoy! Usin' stiff paper, connect t' marks on both sides. Aye aye! Blimey! Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work – take one o' t' 9” BT5 tubes. Ya scallywag! Make a mark 4.5” down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, ¼” above and below this position. Arrr! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.
In addition, cut out 2 each o' t' 2” x 2 ¾” x 4” x 1” fin and t' ¾” x ¼” x 1” pieces shown above
For t' motor mount, me bucko, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Ahoy! Then I drew a line that went through t' center. On here, I traced 2 circles, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8”. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Sand t' fit. Avast! Once satisfied, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. Ya scallywag! T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8” slit made 2 ½” from one end. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Ahoy! Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Cut another piece o' cardboard 2” x 2.6” Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2” x 2.6” cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Ahoy! Avast! Let dry.
Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½” from each end on t' edge. Blimey! Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Blimey! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Ahoy! Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, I made some standoffs. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½” x 1 ¼”. Avast! Blimey! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼” edges on each piece. Arrr! Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a “V” channel
While t' version 1.1 be designed for a 3/16” rod, t' rocket was too heavy. Well, blow me down! T' version 1.2 be upgraded for ¼” rod. Since all I got be 1/8” launch lug material, arrr, I had t' improvise. Blimey! Take 3 o' t' small skewers, cut 2 t' 7” and t' third t' 9” from t' pointed tip. Save t' cut off ends for future use. Ya scallywag! Glue the two 7” skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Begad! Let dry. Begad! Cut t' ¼” dowel into two 6” sections. Well, blow me down! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Glue these t' t' 7” skewers. Finally, arrr, t' 9” skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.
From t' 1/8” balsa, arrr, cut 2 fins 9” x 3”. I received a plywood fin that was already 6” x 2 ¼”. You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. For version 1.1, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, ya bilge rat, but I ran into issues. Ahoy! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. Well, blow me down! First, ya bilge rat, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8” diameter hole in t' top. Ya scallywag! Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Avast! Begad! Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Carefully, cut away the trim, double check t' fit, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Let dry.
This is how it looks when done
T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, me hearties, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Begad! Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Ahoy! Avast! Take t' BT50 tube. Ahoy! Blimey! First cut off a 3” length (to use as a motor mount). Blimey! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Avast, me proud beauty! Again, mark where it touches. Aye aye! Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15” length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Ya scallywag! Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Avast, me proud beauty! Once you are satisfied, ya bilge rat, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Avast, me proud beauty! I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Avast! Finally, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. Ahoy! This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, arrr, me hearties, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Arrr! Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Arrr! Let dry.
While t' transition section is drying, matey, you can make t' nose cone section. Blimey! Take t' 3” BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. Well, blow me down! From one end, matey, me bucko, make marks at 1” on two opposite lines, matey, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and marks at 1 ½” on t' other two opposite lines. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Similar t' t' couplers, me bucko, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Blimey! Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Begad! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. Avast, me proud beauty! (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, matey, make a mark, me hearties, put glue inside a motor tube, ya bilge rat, arrr, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, me hearties, and then “quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck”).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. Begad! This be t' top. Avast! Blimey! Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue t' 1” BT20 nose cone onto this end. Begad! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Well, arrr, blow me down! Blimey! Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16” ~ 1/8” o' t' BT20 extending, ya bilge rat, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other
Since t' 1.1 version be t' be t' separation point for ejection, me hearties, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, shiver me timbers, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, arrr, with t' tops cut at an angle, arrr, arrr, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. Aye aye! T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾” x ¼” x 1” pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, me bucko, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.
I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, me bucko, but they smartly broke off. Ahoy! I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, matey, matey, t' ensure stability, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Cut t' 18” BT20 in half. Ya scallywag! Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼” and 7” from one end. Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼” and 7” locations. Begad! Begad! Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Begad! Blimey! Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾” nose cones in. Ya scallywag! Usin' a Dremel tool, ya bilge rat, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. Ahoy! These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Well, blow me down! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Begad! Blimey! Let dry, then glue t' 2” x 2 ¾” x 4” x 1” fin t' t' other side. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.
Back t' t' main section, ya bilge rat, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. Begad! I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. Begad! I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼” strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. JINX! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Ya scallywag! Sorry for changin' units, arrr, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Arrr! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, instead I used 6cm. Ahoy! Blimey! for t' 2 wings. I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Begad! Blimey! Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.
Since me motor mount be cardboard, matey, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4” from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1” from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Begad! Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾” and 9 7/8” positions. Avast! Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.
T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, arrr, ya bilge rat, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1” from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. Aye aye! Blimey! T' assist in t' stability, me bucko, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. T' 4 ½” BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.
Once dry, shiver me timbers, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I cut 2 circles (1 3/8” diameter) from t' mailin' box. I beveled t' edge, arrr, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, matey, arrr, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Ya scallywag! Once dry, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! This nozzle I left straight.
Now t' complete t' top. Blimey! Blimey! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Begad! Blimey! Attach two o' t' 7” BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9” from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. Ahoy! Blimey! T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes
T' shock cord was cut in half. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! A provided screw eye be attached t' t' 80K nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Avast! Usin' t' snap swivels, one 12” parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, shiver me timbers, me bucko, t' bent balsa be attached t' t' fins on t' wings. T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. Ya scallywag! Begad! A missile was made usin' t' last BT5 tube, matey, ya bilge rat, t' fin can, t' display nozzle, and another small cap. A missile rack was made with some ¼” x ¼” x 2” supports. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, two 1” x 3” supports were made t' support t' missile. Avast! Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wife’s cake savers (or other molds you may have used).
Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, matey, shiver me timbers, t' night before I left for NERRF I’m givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I was afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard don’t mix. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! So, on Saturday, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! As I previously stated,
the rocket be designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! As I was preppin' t' rocket, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. This had me concerned. I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), matey, shiver me timbers, so I taped this joint. Blimey! Blimey! Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12” parachutes). Ahoy! Blimey! While waitin' t' load, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I explained this be its first flight. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! We called a heads up flight. Avast! Blimey!
They launched t' HPR rockets, started t' LPR – and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. Begad! Avast! My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. Ahoy! JINX! Finally, it launched. It danced a bit on t' pad – t' rocket weight was really too heavy for a 3/16’ rod. Blimey! Also, shiver me timbers, I thought t' 3/16” rods were 4’, but they were only 3’. Ya scallywag! But, t' rocket went up nice and straight. But those tight chutes did nay come out. Well, blow me down! The tape at t' transition let go – crash. Avast! JINX!
I gathered up t' pieces. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' worst damage be t' wing. At least t' corn had tasted good.
As I previously stated, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, and I had no good place t' put it, ya bilge rat, so I left it off. I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. Begad! Begad! It was also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. So, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. Ahoy! While loadin' t' engines, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. Ahoy! I had t' grab something, and it fell over and cracked a fin. Begad! Ya scallywag! JINX! A quick glue repair and it be good t' go. Aye aye! Arrr! I did nay have t' wait this time, possible since I was now on t' ¼” rods. Again, I requested a heads up. Blimey! It launched beautifully straight, me bucko, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. JINX! But at least t' top came down gently, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. Ya scallywag! JINX! JINX! JINX! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. Aye aye! There was some minor damage t' t' rocket, but it was repairable. Begad! I be goin' t' give up, matey, me bucko, but then t' contest got extended a week, just enough time for some repairs and painting. Avast! Ahoy!
My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Avast! Blimey! Nice and straight, me bucko, both chutes opened, and a safe recovery! Blimey! I was nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. One thin' I would say, me hearties, t' rocket really needs 18” chutes minimum. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, matey, ya bilge rat, I did wince as it looked rather hard. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! However, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I had to live with what I got – t' 12” chutes.
Summary:
This was a great contest that challenged me. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Despite all me JINXes, me hearties, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
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