Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, hence t' jinx
name. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! Part o' t' issues was good old procrastination. But, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), stuck tubes, matey, a crashin' computer that lost me files, me bucko, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
but it finally flew successfully! Blimey! T' parts arrived late March. Like a kid giddy at Christmas, I opened t' box,
and be surprised by t' amount o' stuff! Blimey!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did be t' weigh t' parts. Ahoy! My goal was t' use as much as possible. Based on t' weight, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood was a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, me bucko, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, thar be still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, ya bilge rat, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. Ahoy! What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Begad! Aye aye! First flight be at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, causin' some major damage. JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, matey, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad. Ahoy!
Durin' t' development, ya bilge rat, I made up various pieces and taped them together, ya bilge rat, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmers F&F.
I was tempted t' fly it, matey, but I could nay figure out
1. Aye aye! Blimey! What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Avast, me proud beauty! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. Well, blow me down! Blimey! How many pieces would it be in after a flight
For version 1.1, matey, me hearties, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well or just plain water). Arrr! Once t' water was boiling, arrr, I placed t' 1/16 strip o' balsa (it be 2 x 12) across t' pan. Begad! Besides satisfyin' me hunger, I be also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. Ya scallywag! Avast! T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wifes cake savers (one is 10 t' other is 12). Blimey! Well, me hearties, blow me down! WARNING that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape
I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. Begad! I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Begad! Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, me bucko, make a mark at 2 on one line and a mark at 1 on t' other. Blimey! For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1 and ½. Usin' stiff paper, ya bilge rat, connect t' marks on both sides. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work take one o' t' 9 BT5 tubes. Ya scallywag! Make a mark 4.5 down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, ¼ above and below this position. Begad! Arrr! Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.
In addition, cut out 2 each o' t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin and t' ¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces shown above
For t' motor mount, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Avast, me proud beauty! Then I drew a line that went through t' center. Avast, me proud beauty! On here, I traced 2 circles, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8. I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Begad! Sand t' fit. Avast! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Once satisfied, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. Avast! T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8 slit made 2 ½ from one end. Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Cut another piece o' cardboard 2 x 2.6 Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2 x 2.6 cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Let dry.
Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½ from each end on t' edge. Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Ya scallywag! Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Aye aye! Aye aye! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, I made some standoffs. Blimey! Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½ x 1 ¼. Avast! Begad! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼ edges on each piece. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a V channel
While t' version 1.1 was designed for a 3/16 rod, t' rocket be too heavy. T' version 1.2 be upgraded for ¼ rod. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Since all I got was 1/8 launch lug material, I had t' improvise. Aye aye! Blimey! Take 3 o' t' small skewers, cut 2 t' 7 and t' third t' 9 from t' pointed tip. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Save t' cut off ends for future use. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue the two 7 skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Aye aye! Blimey! Let dry. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Cut t' ¼ dowel into two 6 sections. Aye aye! Blimey! Glue these t' t' 7 skewers. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Finally, t' 9 skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.
From t' 1/8 balsa, me hearties, cut 2 fins 9 x 3. I received a plywood fin that was already 6 x 2 ¼. Ya scallywag! You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. Avast! Blimey! For version 1.1, me bucko, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, but I ran into issues. Avast! Blimey! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. First, arrr, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8 diameter hole in t' top. Begad! Blimey! Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Begad! Blimey! Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Carefully, ya bilge rat, cut away the trim, double check t' fit, ya bilge rat, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Let dry.
This is how it looks when done
T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Avast, me proud beauty! Take t' BT50 tube. Well, blow me down! First cut off a 3 length (to use as a motor mount). Aye aye! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Ahoy! Again, matey, mark where it touches. Begad! Arrr! Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15 length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Arrr! Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Begad! Once you are satisfied, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Avast! I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Arrr! Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Finally, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Blimey! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Aye aye! Let dry.
While t' transition section is drying, you can make t' nose cone section. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Take t' 3 BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! From one end, make marks at 1 on two opposite lines, shiver me timbers, and marks at 1 ½ on t' other two opposite lines. Aye aye! Blimey! Similar t' t' couplers, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Blimey! Blimey! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, make a mark, shiver me timbers, put glue inside a motor tube, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, arrr, ya bilge rat, and then quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. Arrr! Avast! Blimey! This be t' top. Begad! Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Ahoy! Glue t' 1 BT20 nose cone onto this end. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Ahoy! Blimey! Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16 ~ 1/8 o' t' BT20 extending, arrr, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other
Since t' 1.1 version was t' be t' separation point for ejection, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, ya bilge rat, with t' tops cut at an angle, ya bilge rat, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, arrr, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.
I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, but they smartly broke off. Avast, me proud beauty! I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, t' ensure stability, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Ya scallywag! Avast! Cut t' 18 BT20 in half. Well, blow me down! Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼ and 7 from one end. Well, blow me down! Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼ and 7 locations. Blimey! Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Well, blow me down! Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾ nose cones in. Begad! Aye aye! Usin' a Dremel tool, matey, me bucko, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. Arrr! Blimey! These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Avast! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Begad! Avast! Let dry, then glue t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin t' t' other side. Arrr! You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.
Back t' t' main section, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. Aye aye! I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼ strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. Aye aye! JINX! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Avast! Sorry for changin' units, me bucko, me hearties, matey, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Arrr! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, matey, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, instead I used 6cm. Well, blow me down! for t' 2 wings. Blimey! Avast! I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Ahoy! Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.
Since me motor mount was cardboard, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Aye aye! Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾ and 9 7/8 positions. Ya scallywag! Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.
T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Arrr! Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, ya bilge rat, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. Begad! T' assist in t' stability, me hearties, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. Ahoy! T' 4 ½ BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, arrr, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Arrr! Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.
Once dry, ya bilge rat, me bucko, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. Begad! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, arrr, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. Aye aye! I cut 2 circles (1 3/8 diameter) from t' mailin' box. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I beveled t' edge, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, me bucko, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Aye aye! Once dry, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. Ahoy! This nozzle I left straight.
Now t' complete t' top. Begad! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Attach two o' t' 7 BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9 from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Blimey! Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes
T' shock cord be cut in half. Ahoy! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! A provided screw eye was attached t' t' 80K nose cone. Arrr! I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' t' snap swivels, me hearties, one 12 parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' bent balsa be attached t' t' fins on t' wings. Begad! T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. A missile was made usin' t' last BT5 tube, t' fin can, t' display nozzle, ya bilge rat, and another small cap. Well, blow me down! A missile rack was made with some ¼ x ¼ x 2 supports. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Finally, two 1 x 3 supports were made t' support t' missile. Begad! Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wifes cake savers (or other molds you may have used).
Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, arrr, t' night before I left for NERRF Im givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I was afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard dont mix. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! So, ya bilge rat, arrr, on Saturday, me bucko, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. As I previously stated,
the rocket was designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. As I was preppin' t' rocket, me bucko, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. Ya scallywag! This had me concerned. Well, blow me down! I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), ya bilge rat, so I taped this joint. Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12 parachutes). Aye aye! Begad! While waitin' t' load, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. I explained this was its first flight. Arrr! We called a heads up flight.
They launched t' HPR rockets, me bucko, started t' LPR and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. Begad! My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. Avast! Begad! JINX! Finally, ya bilge rat, me bucko, it launched. Ahoy! It danced a bit on t' pad t' rocket weight was really too heavy for a 3/16 rod. Ahoy! Avast! Also, matey, I thought t' 3/16 rods were 4, but they were only 3. Begad! Avast! But, t' rocket went up nice and straight. Avast! Ya scallywag! But those tight chutes did nay come out. Well, arrr, blow me down! The tape at t' transition let go crash. Avast! JINX!
I gathered up t' pieces. Blimey! T' worst damage was t' wing. Begad! Aye aye! At least t' corn had tasted good.
As I previously stated, ya bilge rat, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, me bucko, and I had no good place t' put it, me hearties, so I left it off. Ahoy! Begad! I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. Begad! Ahoy! It was also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. Ahoy! Begad! So, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. Blimey! While loadin' t' engines, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. Avast! I had t' grab something, me hearties, and it fell over and cracked a fin. Begad! Begad! JINX! A quick glue repair and it be good t' go. I did nay have t' wait this time, me bucko, possible since I was now on t' ¼ rods. Again, ya bilge rat, arrr, I requested a heads up. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! It launched beautifully straight, me hearties, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. JINX! But at least t' top came down gently, me hearties, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. JINX! JINX! JINX! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. Aye aye! There be some minor damage t' t' rocket, me hearties, but it was repairable. Blimey! I be goin' t' give up, shiver me timbers, but then t' contest got extended a week, just enough time for some repairs and painting.
My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Well, blow me down! Nice and straight, matey, both chutes opened, and a safe recovery! I was nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. Blimey! Aye aye! One thin' I would say, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, t' rocket really needs 18 chutes minimum. Ahoy! Blimey! While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, matey, me bucko, I did wince as it looked rather hard. However, arrr, I had to live with what I got t' 12 chutes.
Summary:
This was a great contest that challenged me. Arrr! Despite all me JINXes, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. Avast! I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
Sponsored Ads
![]() |
![]() |