| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, arrr, hence t' jinx
name. Well, blow me down! Part o' t' issues was good old procrastination. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! But, ya bilge rat, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), ya bilge rat, stuck tubes, matey, me hearties, a crashin' computer that lost me files, arrr, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
but it finally flew successfully! T' parts arrived late March. Like a kid giddy at Christmas, shiver me timbers, I opened t' box,
and was surprised by t' amount o' stuff!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did be t' weigh t' parts. Ya scallywag! Begad! My goal was t' use as much as possible. Based on t' weight, ya bilge rat, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. Avast, me proud beauty! I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood be a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, shiver me timbers, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, thar was still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, shiver me timbers, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. Ahoy! What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Well, blow me down! First flight was at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, shiver me timbers, causin' some major damage. Arrr! JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. Aye aye! Well, me bucko, blow me down! T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad. Well, arrr, blow me down!
Durin' t' development, I made up various pieces and taped them together, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmers F&F.
I was tempted t' fly it, matey, me bucko, matey, but I could nay figure out
1. Aye aye! What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Blimey! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. How many pieces would it be in after a flight

For version 1.1, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well or just plain water). Begad! Arrr! Once t' water was boiling, shiver me timbers, I placed t' 1/16 strip o' balsa (it be 2 x 12) across t' pan. Besides satisfyin' me hunger, arrr, I was also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wifes cake savers (one is 10 t' other is 12). Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! WARNING that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape

I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. Aye aye! I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Ya scallywag! Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, make a mark at 2 on one line and a mark at 1 on t' other. Begad! For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1 and ½. Ahoy! Begad! Usin' stiff paper, shiver me timbers, connect t' marks on both sides. Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work take one o' t' 9 BT5 tubes. Well, blow me down! Make a mark 4.5 down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, shiver me timbers, ¼ above and below this position. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.

In addition, cut out 2 each o' t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin and t' ¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces shown above

For t' motor mount, ya bilge rat, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Begad! Then I drew a line that went through t' center. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! On here, ya bilge rat, I traced 2 circles, me bucko, shiver me timbers, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8. Ahoy! Aye aye! I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Sand t' fit. Avast, me proud beauty! Once satisfied, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8 slit made 2 ½ from one end. Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Cut another piece o' cardboard 2 x 2.6 Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2 x 2.6 cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Let dry.

Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½ from each end on t' edge. Blimey! Blimey! Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Begad! Blimey! Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Begad! Blimey! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, arrr, shiver me timbers, I made some standoffs. Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½ x 1 ¼. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼ edges on each piece. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a V channel

While t' version 1.1 was designed for a 3/16 rod, t' rocket be too heavy. Blimey! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' version 1.2 was upgraded for ¼ rod. Begad! Blimey! Since all I got was 1/8 launch lug material, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I had t' improvise. Take 3 o' t' small skewers, cut 2 t' 7 and t' third t' 9 from t' pointed tip. Save t' cut off ends for future use. Begad! Blimey! Glue the two 7 skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Let dry. Blimey! Blimey! Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! Cut t' ¼ dowel into two 6 sections. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue these t' t' 7 skewers. Finally, me bucko, t' 9 skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.

From t' 1/8 balsa, cut 2 fins 9 x 3. Ahoy! I received a plywood fin that was already 6 x 2 ¼. You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, arrr, matey, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. For version 1.1, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, shiver me timbers, me bucko, me hearties, but I ran into issues. Begad! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. Begad! Aye aye! First, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8 diameter hole in t' top. Well, blow me down! Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Carefully, arrr, cut away the trim, ya bilge rat, double check t' fit, ya bilge rat, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Begad! Let dry.

This is how it looks when done

T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, me hearties, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Aye aye! Avast! Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Arrr! Take t' BT50 tube. Well, blow me down! First cut off a 3 length (to use as a motor mount). Well, blow me down! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Begad! Again, ya bilge rat, mark where it touches. Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15 length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Ahoy! Begad! Once you are satisfied, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Well, blow me down! Begad! I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Finally, arrr, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. Blimey! This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, me hearties, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Blimey! Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Arrr! Let dry.

While t' transition section is drying, you can make t' nose cone section. Ya scallywag! Take t' 3 BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. From one end, me hearties, make marks at 1 on two opposite lines, me bucko, shiver me timbers, and marks at 1 ½ on t' other two opposite lines. Begad! Similar t' t' couplers, me bucko, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Avast! Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Well, matey, blow me down! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. Avast, me proud beauty! (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, ya bilge rat, make a mark, shiver me timbers, put glue inside a motor tube, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, and then quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. Blimey! This be t' top. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Glue t' 1 BT20 nose cone onto this end. Begad! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Begad! Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. Avast, me proud beauty! I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16 ~ 1/8 o' t' BT20 extending, shiver me timbers, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other

Since t' 1.1 version was t' be t' separation point for ejection, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, shiver me timbers, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, with t' tops cut at an angle, me hearties, me hearties, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, ya bilge rat, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.

I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but they smartly broke off. Well, blow me down! I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, t' ensure stability, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Ya scallywag! Cut t' 18 BT20 in half. Blimey! Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼ and 7 from one end. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼ and 7 locations. Blimey! Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾ nose cones in. Ahoy! Usin' a Dremel tool, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Ya scallywag! Let dry, then glue t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin t' t' other side. Blimey! You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.

Back t' t' main section, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼ strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. Begad! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Aye aye! Sorry for changin' units, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Blimey! Avast! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, shiver me timbers, me bucko, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, instead I used 6cm. for t' 2 wings. I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Arrr! Begad! Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Ya scallywag! Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.

Since me motor mount was cardboard, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Arrr! Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾ and 9 7/8 positions. Avast! Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.

T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' assist in t' stability, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. T' 4 ½ BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.

Once dry, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. Arrr! Begad! T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. Aye aye! Arrr! I cut 2 circles (1 3/8 diameter) from t' mailin' box. Aye aye! I beveled t' edge, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, matey, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Once dry, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. Aye aye! This nozzle I left straight.

Now t' complete t' top. Begad! Blimey! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, ya bilge rat, me bucko, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Arrr! Arrr! Attach two o' t' 7 BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9 from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. Ya scallywag! T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes


T' shock cord was cut in half. Arrr! A provided screw eye was attached t' t' 80K nose cone. I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Ahoy! Usin' t' snap swivels, ya bilge rat, one 12 parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, arrr, t' bent balsa was attached t' t' fins on t' wings. Begad! T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. Arrr! A missile was made usin' t' last BT5 tube, t' fin can, t' display nozzle, matey, and another small cap. Ya scallywag! Begad! A missile rack be made with some ¼ x ¼ x 2 supports. Begad! Finally, two 1 x 3 supports were made t' support t' missile. Ya scallywag! Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wifes cake savers (or other molds you may have used).




Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, t' night before I left for NERRF Im givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. Arrr! Begad! There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I was afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard dont mix. Begad! Ahoy! So, arrr, on Saturday, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. As I previously stated,
the rocket was designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. As I was preppin' t' rocket, ya bilge rat, me hearties, arrr, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. This had me concerned. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), so I taped this joint. Ya scallywag! Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12 parachutes). Begad! Aye aye! While waitin' t' load, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. Begad! Ahoy! I explained this be its first flight. We called a heads up flight. Begad! Well, blow me down!
They launched t' HPR rockets, shiver me timbers, started t' LPR and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. Avast, me proud beauty! My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. JINX! Finally, it launched. Ahoy! Begad! It danced a bit on t' pad t' rocket weight was really too heavy for a 3/16 rod. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Also, I thought t' 3/16 rods were 4, but they were only 3. Aye aye! But, arrr, me hearties, t' rocket went up nice and straight. Ahoy! Begad! But those tight chutes did nay come out. Avast, me proud beauty! The tape at t' transition let go crash. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! JINX!

I gathered up t' pieces. Begad! T' worst damage was t' wing. Arrr! Ya scallywag! At least t' corn had tasted good.

As I previously stated, arrr, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, shiver me timbers, and I had no good place t' put it, so I left it off. Blimey! I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. Blimey! It was also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. Arrr! So, shiver me timbers, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. While loadin' t' engines, me bucko, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. Arrr! I had t' grab something, matey, and it fell over and cracked a fin. Aye aye! JINX! A quick glue repair and it was good t' go. I did nay have t' wait this time, arrr, matey, me bucko, possible since I was now on t' ¼ rods. Again, I requested a heads up. Blimey! It launched beautifully straight, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. JINX! But at least t' top came down gently, me bucko, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. Avast! JINX! JINX! JINX! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. There be some minor damage t' t' rocket, matey, arrr, but it was repairable. Avast! I be goin' t' give up, matey, but then t' contest got extended a week, just enough time for some repairs and painting.




My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Begad! Nice and straight, both chutes opened, me bucko, and a safe recovery! I was nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. One thin' I would say, arrr, t' rocket really needs 18 chutes minimum. While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, I did wince as it looked rather hard. Arrr! However, ya bilge rat, I had to live with what I got t' 12 chutes.


Summary:
This be a great contest that challenged me. Ahoy! Arrr! Despite all me JINXes, me bucko, matey, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
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