| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, matey, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, matey, hence t' jinx
name. Part o' t' issues was good old procrastination. Begad! Blimey! But, ya bilge rat, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), arrr, stuck tubes, a crashin' computer that lost me files, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
but it finally flew successfully! Blimey! T' parts arrived late March. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Like a kid giddy at Christmas, arrr, I opened t' box,
and was surprised by t' amount o' stuff! Blimey!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did was t' weigh t' parts. Begad! My goal was t' use as much as possible. Aye aye! Based on t' weight, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood was a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, thar was still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, arrr, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Avast! Ahoy! First flight was at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, causin' some major damage. Arrr! JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. Aye aye! T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad.
Durin' t' development, I made up various pieces and taped them together, me bucko, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Begad! Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. Blimey! You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmers F&F.
I be tempted t' fly it, ya bilge rat, but I could nay figure out
1. What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Begad! Ahoy! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. How many pieces would it be in after a flight

For version 1.1, matey, me hearties, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well or just plain water). Begad! Once t' water be boiling, I placed t' 1/16 strip o' balsa (it was 2 x 12) across t' pan. Avast, me proud beauty! Besides satisfyin' me hunger, I was also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. Aye aye! T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wifes cake savers (one is 10 t' other is 12). Begad! Begad! WARNING that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape

I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, make a mark at 2 on one line and a mark at 1 on t' other. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey! For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1 and ½. Usin' stiff paper, ya bilge rat, connect t' marks on both sides. Begad! Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work take one o' t' 9 BT5 tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Make a mark 4.5 down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, me hearties, ¼ above and below this position. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.

In addition, shiver me timbers, cut out 2 each o' t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin and t' ¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces shown above

For t' motor mount, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Begad! Then I drew a line that went through t' center. Ahoy! On here, I traced 2 circles, shiver me timbers, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8. Avast! I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Aye aye! Sand t' fit. Once satisfied, me bucko, me bucko, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. Blimey! T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8 slit made 2 ½ from one end. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Cut another piece o' cardboard 2 x 2.6 Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2 x 2.6 cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Let dry.

Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½ from each end on t' edge. Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Ya scallywag! Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Begad! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, ya bilge rat, I made some standoffs. Blimey! Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½ x 1 ¼. Avast! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼ edges on each piece. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a V channel

While t' version 1.1 was designed for a 3/16 rod, me hearties, t' rocket be too heavy. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' version 1.2 was upgraded for ¼ rod. Since all I got be 1/8 launch lug material, I had t' improvise. Take 3 o' t' small skewers, cut 2 t' 7 and t' third t' 9 from t' pointed tip. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Save t' cut off ends for future use. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue the two 7 skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Arrr! Blimey! Let dry. Ahoy! Blimey! Cut t' ¼ dowel into two 6 sections. Arrr! Blimey! Glue these t' t' 7 skewers. Begad! Blimey! Finally, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' 9 skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.

From t' 1/8 balsa, cut 2 fins 9 x 3. Begad! I received a plywood fin that was already 6 x 2 ¼. Begad! You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, me hearties, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. Well, blow me down! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! For version 1.1, me hearties, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, me hearties, but I ran into issues. Blimey! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. First, me hearties, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8 diameter hole in t' top. Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Arrr! Aye aye! Carefully, shiver me timbers, cut away the trim, me hearties, double check t' fit, matey, shiver me timbers, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Begad! Let dry.

This is how it looks when done

T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, arrr, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Arrr! Blimey! Take t' BT50 tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! First cut off a 3 length (to use as a motor mount). Ya scallywag! Blimey! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Ahoy! Blimey! Again, matey, mark where it touches. Aye aye! Blimey! Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15 length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Aye aye! Blimey! Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Ahoy! Blimey! Once you are satisfied, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Blimey! Blimey! Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Finally, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Arrr! Blimey! Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Let dry.

While t' transition section is drying, arrr, shiver me timbers, you can make t' nose cone section. Ya scallywag! Take t' 3 BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. Aye aye! From one end, arrr, make marks at 1 on two opposite lines, arrr, and marks at 1 ½ on t' other two opposite lines. Ya scallywag! Similar t' t' couplers, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Ahoy! Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Begad! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, make a mark, put glue inside a motor tube, shiver me timbers, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, me hearties, and then quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. This be t' top. Arrr! Ahoy! Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Well, blow me down! Glue t' 1 BT20 nose cone onto this end. Begad! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Begad! Avast! Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. Begad! Avast! I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16 ~ 1/8 o' t' BT20 extending, me bucko, arrr, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other

Since t' 1.1 version was t' be t' separation point for ejection, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, ya bilge rat, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, shiver me timbers, with t' tops cut at an angle, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. Avast! T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, ya bilge rat, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.

I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, but they smartly broke off. Arrr! I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, me bucko, t' ensure stability, ya bilge rat, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Arrr! Cut t' 18 BT20 in half. Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼ and 7 from one end. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼ and 7 locations. Ya scallywag! Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾ nose cones in. Usin' a Dremel tool, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Well, blow me down! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Let dry, then glue t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin t' t' other side. Well, blow me down! Begad! You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.

Back t' t' main section, matey, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. Aye aye! I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼ strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. Well, blow me down! JINX! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Blimey! Blimey! Sorry for changin' units, matey, matey, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Avast! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, arrr, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, instead I used 6cm. Aye aye! for t' 2 wings. Ahoy! Aye aye! Blimey! I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Avast! Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.

Since me motor mount be cardboard, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾ and 9 7/8 positions. Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.

T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, me hearties, me bucko, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. T' assist in t' stability, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! T' 4 ½ BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Blimey! Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.

Once dry, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, arrr, ya bilge rat, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. Avast, me proud beauty! I cut 2 circles (1 3/8 diameter) from t' mailin' box. Blimey! Ya scallywag! I beveled t' edge, ya bilge rat, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Arrr! Once dry, shiver me timbers, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. This nozzle I left straight.

Now t' complete t' top. Begad! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Attach two o' t' 7 BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9 from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Ahoy! Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Ahoy! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes


T' shock cord was cut in half. A provided screw eye be attached t' t' 80K nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' t' snap swivels, arrr, me bucko, one 12 parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, arrr, t' bent balsa be attached t' t' fins on t' wings. Avast, me proud beauty! T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! A missile was made usin' t' last BT5 tube, t' fin can, t' display nozzle, arrr, and another small cap. Ya scallywag! A missile rack was made with some ¼ x ¼ x 2 supports. Finally, two 1 x 3 supports were made t' support t' missile. Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wifes cake savers (or other molds you may have used).




Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, me hearties, t' night before I left for NERRF Im givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I be afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard dont mix. Begad! So, arrr, on Saturday, arrr, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. As I previously stated,
the rocket was designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. Blimey! Begad! As I was preppin' t' rocket, ya bilge rat, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. Begad! This had me concerned. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), so I taped this joint. Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12 parachutes). While waitin' t' load, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. Begad! I explained this was its first flight. Begad! We called a heads up flight. Ahoy!
They launched t' HPR rockets, started t' LPR and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. Aye aye! Begad! My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. JINX! Finally, arrr, it launched. Ya scallywag! It danced a bit on t' pad t' rocket weight was really too heavy for a 3/16 rod. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Also, I thought t' 3/16 rods were 4, but they were only 3. But, t' rocket went up nice and straight. But those tight chutes did nay come out. Blimey! The tape at t' transition let go crash. Ahoy! Arrr! JINX!

I gathered up t' pieces. Begad! T' worst damage was t' wing. Begad! At least t' corn had tasted good.

As I previously stated, me bucko, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, and I had no good place t' put it, me bucko, so I left it off. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. It be also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. Arrr! So, shiver me timbers, matey, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. While loadin' t' engines, me hearties, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. Begad! I had t' grab something, and it fell over and cracked a fin. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! A quick glue repair and it was good t' go. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Blimey! I did nay have t' wait this time, possible since I was now on t' ¼ rods. Again, I requested a heads up. It launched beautifully straight, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. Avast! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! But at least t' top came down gently, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. Begad! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. Aye aye! There be some minor damage t' t' rocket, me bucko, but it was repairable. Aye aye! Blimey! I was goin' t' give up, but then t' contest got extended a week, me hearties, just enough time for some repairs and painting. Ya scallywag! Blimey!




My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Avast, me proud beauty! Nice and straight, both chutes opened, matey, ya bilge rat, and a safe recovery! I be nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. One thin' I would say, t' rocket really needs 18 chutes minimum. Well, blow me down! While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, arrr, I did wince as it looked rather hard. Ya scallywag! However, me bucko, I had to live with what I got t' 12 chutes.


Summary:
This be a great contest that challenged me. Well, blow me down! Despite all me JINXes, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
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