Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, arrr, shiver me timbers, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, hence t' jinx
name. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Part o' t' issues be good old procrastination. Well, arrr, blow me down! But, shiver me timbers, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), stuck tubes, a crashin' computer that lost me files, shiver me timbers, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
but it finally flew successfully! T' parts arrived late March. Well, blow me down! Like a kid giddy at Christmas, matey, I opened t' box,
and was surprised by t' amount o' stuff!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did was t' weigh t' parts. My goal be t' use as much as possible. Begad! Blimey! Based on t' weight, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. Ahoy! I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood be a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, thar was still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. Avast! Begad! What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Begad! First flight was at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, causin' some major damage. JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, ya bilge rat, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. Avast! T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad. Ya scallywag!
Durin' t' development, ya bilge rat, I made up various pieces and taped them together, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Begad! Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. Begad! You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmers F&F.
I was tempted t' fly it, ya bilge rat, but I could nay figure out
1. Ahoy! What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. Begad! How many pieces would it be in after a flight
For version 1.1, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well or just plain water). Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Once t' water was boiling, arrr, I placed t' 1/16 strip o' balsa (it was 2 x 12) across t' pan. Arrr! Ahoy! Besides satisfyin' me hunger, shiver me timbers, I was also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wifes cake savers (one is 10 t' other is 12). Blimey! WARNING that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape
I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. Begad! I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, me bucko, make a mark at 2 on one line and a mark at 1 on t' other. For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1 and ½. Ya scallywag! Usin' stiff paper, connect t' marks on both sides. Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work take one o' t' 9 BT5 tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Make a mark 4.5 down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, shiver me timbers, arrr, ¼ above and below this position. Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.
In addition, cut out 2 each o' t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin and t' ¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces shown above
For t' motor mount, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Then I drew a line that went through t' center. On here, shiver me timbers, I traced 2 circles, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8. Aye aye! I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Sand t' fit. Once satisfied, ya bilge rat, matey, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. Ahoy! T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8 slit made 2 ½ from one end. Aye aye! Avast! Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Aye aye! Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Ahoy! Cut another piece o' cardboard 2 x 2.6 Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2 x 2.6 cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Let dry.
Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½ from each end on t' edge. Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Ahoy! Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Blimey! Aye aye! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Ahoy! Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, matey, I made some standoffs. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½ x 1 ¼. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼ edges on each piece. Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a V channel
While t' version 1.1 was designed for a 3/16 rod, me bucko, t' rocket be too heavy. Avast! Blimey! T' version 1.2 was upgraded for ¼ rod. Avast! Since all I got was 1/8 launch lug material, I had t' improvise. Take 3 o' t' small skewers, cut 2 t' 7 and t' third t' 9 from t' pointed tip. Avast! Arrr! Save t' cut off ends for future use. Glue the two 7 skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Let dry. Avast! Cut t' ¼ dowel into two 6 sections. Blimey! Glue these t' t' 7 skewers. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Finally, shiver me timbers, t' 9 skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.
From t' 1/8 balsa, cut 2 fins 9 x 3. Avast, me proud beauty! I received a plywood fin that was already 6 x 2 ¼. Begad! You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! For version 1.1, arrr, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, shiver me timbers, but I ran into issues. Ya scallywag! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! First, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8 diameter hole in t' top. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Ya scallywag! Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Ahoy! Carefully, ya bilge rat, cut away the trim, ya bilge rat, double check t' fit, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Let dry.
This is how it looks when done
T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Take t' BT50 tube. Avast! Aye aye! Blimey! First cut off a 3 length (to use as a motor mount). Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Again, mark where it touches. Begad! Blimey! Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15 length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Blimey! Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Aye aye! Once you are satisfied, matey, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Begad! I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Arrr! Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Begad! Blimey! Finally, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. Avast, me proud beauty! This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Begad! Blimey! Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Let dry.
While t' transition section is drying, you can make t' nose cone section. Arrr! Take t' 3 BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! From one end, me bucko, shiver me timbers, make marks at 1 on two opposite lines, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and marks at 1 ½ on t' other two opposite lines. Aye aye! Similar t' t' couplers, arrr, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Ahoy! Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Arrr! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. Begad! (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, make a mark, matey, shiver me timbers, put glue inside a motor tube, matey, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, ya bilge rat, and then quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! This be t' top. Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Glue t' 1 BT20 nose cone onto this end. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16 ~ 1/8 o' t' BT20 extending, ya bilge rat, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other
Since t' 1.1 version be t' be t' separation point for ejection, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, ya bilge rat, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, with t' tops cut at an angle, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. Begad! Aye aye! T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.
I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, but they smartly broke off. Aye aye! Blimey! I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, t' ensure stability, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Blimey! Cut t' 18 BT20 in half. Blimey! Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼ and 7 from one end. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼ and 7 locations. Avast, me proud beauty! Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Aye aye! Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾ nose cones in. Avast! Well, blow me down! Usin' a Dremel tool, me bucko, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. Arrr! These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Aye aye! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Let dry, then glue t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin t' t' other side. You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.
Back t' t' main section, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. Begad! I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. Arrr! I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼ strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. JINX! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Ya scallywag! Sorry for changin' units, shiver me timbers, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Begad! Begad! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, me hearties, ya bilge rat, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, instead I used 6cm. Aye aye! for t' 2 wings. I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Begad! Blimey! Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Begad! Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.
Since me motor mount be cardboard, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Avast, me proud beauty! Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾ and 9 7/8 positions. Aye aye! Begad! Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.
T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. T' assist in t' stability, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. Begad! T' 4 ½ BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.
Once dry, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. Blimey! Well, blow me down! T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. Blimey! I cut 2 circles (1 3/8 diameter) from t' mailin' box. Begad! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I beveled t' edge, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Begad! Once dry, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. Ahoy! This nozzle I left straight.
Now t' complete t' top. Avast! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, matey, ya bilge rat, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Begad! Attach two o' t' 7 BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9 from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes
T' shock cord was cut in half. Ya scallywag! A provided screw eye be attached t' t' 80K nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Usin' t' snap swivels, me hearties, one 12 parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, t' bent balsa was attached t' t' fins on t' wings. Begad! T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. A missile was made usin' t' last BT5 tube, matey, t' fin can, arrr, t' display nozzle, and another small cap. Begad! A missile rack was made with some ¼ x ¼ x 2 supports. Well, blow me down! Finally, me bucko, two 1 x 3 supports were made t' support t' missile. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wifes cake savers (or other molds you may have used).
Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, t' night before I left for NERRF Im givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I be afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard dont mix. Arrr! So, on Saturday, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. As I previously stated,
the rocket be designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! As I was preppin' t' rocket, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. This had me concerned. Well, blow me down! I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), so I taped this joint. Begad! Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12 parachutes). Well, blow me down! While waitin' t' load, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. Blimey! I explained this was its first flight. We called a heads up flight. Ya scallywag! Blimey!
They launched t' HPR rockets, me bucko, started t' LPR and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. Well, matey, blow me down! JINX! Finally, shiver me timbers, it launched. Begad! It danced a bit on t' pad t' rocket weight be really too heavy for a 3/16 rod. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Also, me bucko, matey, I thought t' 3/16 rods were 4, but they were only 3. Well, blow me down! Begad! But, t' rocket went up nice and straight. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! But those tight chutes did nay come out. Begad! Aye aye! The tape at t' transition let go crash. Aye aye! Arrr! JINX!
I gathered up t' pieces. T' worst damage was t' wing. At least t' corn had tasted good.
As I previously stated, shiver me timbers, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, arrr, shiver me timbers, arrr, and I had no good place t' put it, so I left it off. Avast! Blimey! I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. Ahoy! Blimey! It be also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. Avast! Blimey! So, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! While loadin' t' engines, ya bilge rat, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. I had t' grab something, and it fell over and cracked a fin. Avast! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! A quick glue repair and it was good t' go. Blimey! Blimey! I did nay have t' wait this time, me bucko, possible since I was now on t' ¼ rods. Again, I requested a heads up. It launched beautifully straight, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! But at least t' top came down gently, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. Begad! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! JINX! Blimey! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. There was some minor damage t' t' rocket, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but it be repairable. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I be goin' t' give up, but then t' contest got extended a week, ya bilge rat, me hearties, just enough time for some repairs and painting. Begad! Blimey!
My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Avast! Nice and straight, both chutes opened, and a safe recovery! I was nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. One thin' I would say, shiver me timbers, t' rocket really needs 18 chutes minimum. Arrr! Well, blow me down! While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, arrr, me hearties, I did wince as it looked rather hard. However, ya bilge rat, I had to live with what I got t' 12 chutes.
Summary:
This was a great contest that challenged me. Blimey! Avast! Despite all me JINXes, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. Begad! I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
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