| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
This is for t' Box o' Parts contest Well, me hearties, this rocket for me has had multiple problems, me hearties, matey, hence t' jinx
name. Blimey! Part o' t' issues was good old procrastination. Begad! But, me hearties, excessive work schedules (a few weeks where I was averaging
70 hours a week), stuck tubes, a crashin' computer that lost me files, matey, and crashin' rockets (more about that later)
but it finally flew successfully! T' parts arrived late March. Blimey! Arrr! Like a kid giddy at Christmas, I opened t' box,
and was surprised by t' amount o' stuff!
Construction:
T' parts that I used are listed below:
T' first thin' I did was t' weigh t' parts. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! My goal be t' use as much as possible. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Based on t' weight, I decided that t' rocket would need a cluster o' 2 D engines t' fly. Aye aye! Blimey! I also felt t' amount o' balsa wood was a bit skimpy (but as I actually got into t' build, matey, it appeared that whenever I needed some wood, me bucko, thar be still a piece available).
Durin' t' rest o' t' build, you will find me referrin' t' version 1.1 and version 1.2. Avast! Ahoy! What should be obvious, I first built version 1.1. Begad! First flight was at NERFF 4 and t' rocket crashed, causin' some major damage. JINX! T' keep with only usin' what came in t' box, arrr, ya bilge rat, I repaired and updated t' design t' version 1.2. Begad! T' second launch also crashed. JINX! But at least nay as bad.
Durin' t' development, shiver me timbers, I made up various pieces and taped them together, givin' me some flexibility t' adapt the design. Avast, me proud beauty! Below is a teaser o' t' taped up version. Begad! Begad! You will also see where I filled spirals usin' Elmers F&F.
I be tempted t' fly it, but I could nay figure out
1. What t' speed o' maskin' tape was
2. Begad! Ahoy! How t' convince an RSO t' launch it
3. How many pieces would it be in after a flight

For version 1.1, shiver me timbers, one o' me first steps was t' boil some corn (although clams or any other grub would work as well or just plain water). Begad! Once t' water was boiling, arrr, matey, I placed t' 1/16 strip o' balsa (it was 2 x 12) across t' pan. Besides satisfyin' me hunger, I was also steamin' t' wood so I could bend it. Ya scallywag! T' corn was done first so I had t' keep steamin' t' balsa but I finally removed t' balsa and sandwiched them betwixt 2 o' my wifes cake savers (one is 10 t' other is 12). Blimey! WARNING that last step can get you into trouble!! I let this sit for a while (over a day) for t' balsa t' retain its shape

I decided on usin' t' BT80 as me main tube, with 3 pod tubes off o' this main. Well, blow me down! I wanted t' use t' couplers to hold these pods. Take t' 3 couplers (1 BT80 and 2 BT55) and draw lines t' length o' t' coupler on opposite sides (180 degrees apart). For t' BT80, matey, me bucko, make a mark at 2 on one line and a mark at 1 on t' other. Ahoy! For t' BT55, make t' marks at 1 and ½. Arrr! Usin' stiff paper, me bucko, shiver me timbers, connect t' marks on both sides. Blimey! Usin' a sharp knife, cut along these lines.
Some other preparation work take one o' t' 9 BT5 tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Make a mark 4.5 down from one end. Cut t' tube usin' this mark as t' center on an angle, ¼ above and below this position. Aye aye! Epoxy a large plastic cap t' t' straight end o' each tube.

In addition, me bucko, cut out 2 each o' t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin and t' ¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces shown above

For t' motor mount, I traced t' BT80 onto t' mailin' box and cut out t' circle. Then I drew a line that went through t' center. On here, shiver me timbers, I traced 2 circles, ya bilge rat, centered on t' line but t' edges separated by about 1/8. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I cut out these holes and dry fitted t' piece into t' BT80 and t' BT50 tubes into t' center circles. Begad! Sand t' fit. Once satisfied, I used t' first piece as a template and made a second piece. Avast! T' two BT50 motor tubes had a 1/8 slit made 2 ½ from one end. Avast! Begad! Insert t' motor hook and secure with tape. Begad! Blimey! Slide t' motor tubes into t' two centerin' rings. Arrr! Ahoy! Cut another piece o' cardboard 2 x 2.6 Glue t' 2 motor tubes t' t' centerin' rings, sandwichin' t' 2 x 2.6 cardboard betwixt t' motor tubes and t' rings. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Let dry.

Take t' other 2 tongue depressors and make a mark 2 ½ from each end on t' edge. Aye aye! Blimey! Draw a line connectin' t' marks. Cut t' tongue depressor apart on this diagonal line. Blimey! Bevel t' cut edges and glue t' pieces back together t' create an angle. Glue a toothpick into t' angle created.
For version 1.1, I made some standoffs. Well, blow me down! Cut 4 pieces o' balsa ½ x 1 ¼. Blimey! Arrr! Bevel one o' t' 1 ¼ edges on each piece. Avast! Glue t' pieces together so t' bevels create a V channel

While t' version 1.1 was designed for a 3/16 rod, t' rocket was too heavy. Ahoy! T' version 1.2 be upgraded for ¼ rod. Since all I got be 1/8 launch lug material, I had t' improvise. Avast! Take 3 o' t' small skewers, matey, cut 2 t' 7 and t' third t' 9 from t' pointed tip. Ya scallywag! Save t' cut off ends for future use. Begad! Glue the two 7 skewers t' a tongue depressor even with t' ends. Blimey! Let dry. Cut t' ¼ dowel into two 6 sections. Arrr! Blimey! Glue these t' t' 7 skewers. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, me bucko, t' 9 skewer needs t' be glued in t' middle o' t' tongue depressor on t' opposite side.

From t' 1/8 balsa, cut 2 fins 9 x 3. Blimey! Aye aye! I received a plywood fin that be already 6 x 2 ¼. Avast! Begad! You would need t' cut your own fin out.
T' BT80 section needs t' be lengthened for stability, so I transformed t' 80K nose cone into a transition. Ahoy! For version 1.1, me hearties, I planned t' eject t' parachutes from t' very top, arrr, but I ran into issues. Blimey! Ahoy! Version 1.2 separates at the transition. First, take t' plastic cup and cut about 1 1/8 diameter hole in t' top. Slide t' cup over t' nose cone end. Begad! Begad! Adjust t' hole size until t' edge o' t' cup (with t' lip) is snug on t' nose cone. Begad! Carefully, shiver me timbers, cut away the trim, double check t' fit, arrr, then glue t' cup over t' nose cone. Let dry.

This is how it looks when done

T' attach t' top t' t' nose cone, arrr, me hearties, take one o' t' BT 20 t' BT50 adapters and place it over t' top o' t' 80K nose cone. Well, blow me down! Mark where it touches t' cone and remove it. Take t' BT50 tube. Begad! Begad! First cut off a 3 length (to use as a motor mount). Well, blow me down! Arrr! Slide a BT50 section over t' nose cone end. Avast! Again, me bucko, mark where it touches. Dry fit t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter in t' 15 length and t' BT50 t' BT60 over t' same end. Avast! Blimey! Push t' tube and adapters onto t' nose cone and verify t' fit. Once you are satisfied, slide t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter up a bit and remove t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Ahoy! I used 30 minute epoxy; put some inside t' BT50 tube followed by t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter. Begad! Place more epoxy on t' outside o' t' BT50 tube near t' end. Begad! Finally, shiver me timbers, place more epoxy on t' nose cone at t' marks made earlier. Place t' tube over t' end o' t' nose cone and press down. Ahoy! This will push t' BT20 t' BT50 adapter up, arrr, me hearties, and slide the BT50 t' BT60 adapter down. Make sure t' tube is straight with t' nose cone. Avast! Avast! Let dry.

While t' transition section is drying, you can make t' nose cone section. Avast, me proud beauty! Take t' 3 BT20 tube and 4 equally spaced lines (every 90 degrees) along t' length o' t' tube. Arrr! From one end, ya bilge rat, matey, make marks at 1 on two opposite lines, and marks at 1 ½ on t' other two opposite lines. Similar t' t' couplers, matey, connect t' marks and carefully cut t' tube. Begad! Take t' BT19 tube and make 2 lines t' length o' t' tube on opposite sides.. Blimey! I am not sure if BT19 is a real designation. (This tube is one you would normally get with an Estes rocket, make a mark, put glue inside a motor tube, and use this tube t' push t' motor block in up t' t' mark, matey, and then quickly remove to keep from gettin' stuck).
One piece o' t' BT20 will be slightly smaller. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This be t' top. Begad! Blimey! Glue it onto t' BT19 linin' up t' pointed ends with t' marks on t' tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Glue t' 1 BT20 nose cone onto this end. Aye aye! Blimey! Glue t' other BT20 section onto t' BT19, also linin' up t' pointed ends. Avast! Blimey! Glue 2 BT20 t' BT50 adapters onto this end. Ahoy! Blimey! I put t' first on so it only left a small 1/16 ~ 1/8 o' t' BT20 extending, so t' adapters are mostly glued t' each other

Since t' 1.1 version be t' be t' separation point for ejection, ya bilge rat, I did nay want this nose t' slide down, so I created a lip by cuttin' 2 launch lug sections, with t' tops cut at an angle, t' t' BT20 tube in line with the pointed ends. Ahoy! Begad! T' 2 balsa pieces cut earlier (¾ x ¼ x 1 pieces) were glued t' t' top on the shorter portion, shiver me timbers, 90 degrees from t' launch lugs.

I glued 2 toothpicks as antenna, but they smartly broke off. I would nay bother.
Once t' top was dry, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' ensure stability, ya bilge rat, I added 1.5 ounces o' epoxy and BB pellets t' t' top.
T' win' pods can start assembly. Arrr! Cut t' 18 BT20 in half. Blimey! Draw a line along t' length o' t' 2 pieces. Make marks at 2 ¼ and 7 from one end. Well, blow me down! Glue t' 2 BT55 couplers cut before at t' 2 ¼ and 7 locations. Note t' positions o' t' smaller and larger coupler segment and t' direction o' t' angled cuts. Make 2 o' these. Avast! Glue t' BT20 x 2 ¾ nose cones in. Ahoy! Usin' a Dremel tool, arrr, I cleaned up t' ends o' t' broken BT55 nose cones. Begad! These I epoxied into t' other end t' look like a nozzle. Avast! I canted t' nozzle for appearance. Begad! Ahoy! Let dry, then glue t' 2 x 2 ¾ x 4 x 1 fin t' t' other side. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! You should cut a notch into t' fin to fit over t' coupler.

Back t' t' main section, I slid t' larger BT80 coupler into t' BT80 tube with t' point even with t' end. Blimey! Begad! I used this as a markin' template t' cut t' BT80 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! I then spent an hour tryin' t' get t' coupler out o' t' tube, causin' me t' have t' cut ¼ strip off where a chewed it up tryin' t' push t' jammed thin' out. Avast, me proud beauty! JINX! Cut out t' BT80 tube at t' mark.
I used a piece o' paper and marked t' paper t' determine t' BT80 circumference. Sorry for changin' units, but I found it t' be almost exactly 21 cm. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! I wanted t' wings pods t' be slightly asymmetrical, so for 3 pods they should be 7cm apart, shiver me timbers, instead I used 6cm. Blimey! for t' 2 wings. I centered t' point with t' 6cm marks on t' point o' t' BT80 tube and marked t' tube. Begad! Begad! Extend these lines t' length o' t' tube. Ahoy! Glue t' motor mount into t' BT80 so t' 2 tubes are perpendicular t' t' point.

Since me motor mount be cardboard, I did coat it with epoxy for protection.
Glue t' launch lug assembly so t' aft o' t' dowel is 4 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube.
Glue t' win' pods t' t' BT80 so t' aft o' t' win' coupler is 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube on the 6cm lines.
Thee rudder pod is similar t' t' win' pods. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Mark and glue t' BT80 couplers t' t' BT55 tube at 2 ¾ and 9 7/8 positions. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue t' smaller fin t' t' coupler and body tube (you will need t' cut a notch into t' fin for t' coupler) as shown.

T' 2 large fins should wait until this is glued t' t' BT80 tube. Ahoy! Mark and glue this pod t' t' BT80 tube, again with t' end o' t' coupler 1 from t' end o' t' BT80 tube. Begad! T' assist in t' stability, me bucko, ya bilge rat, glue t' left over segments o' t' skewers (from t' launch lug) betwixt t' aft BT80 coupler and t' BT80 tube. T' 4 ½ BT5 tubes glue betwixt t' front coupler and t' BT80 tube, alignin' t' angled cut with t' coupler. Blimey! Avast! Glue t' BT55 nose cone t' t' front.

Once dry, glue t' larger fins betwixt t' coupler sections on either side. Ya scallywag! T' make a nozzle for t' rudder, ya bilge rat, me bucko, I sanded and roughed up t' 3 measuring/mixin' cups. I cut 2 circles (1 3/8 diameter) from t' mailin' box. Begad! I beveled t' edge, and then glued one circle into 2 o' t' cups, then glued t' cups together (all usin' epoxy). Begad! Once dry, this glued into t' aft o' t' BT55 tube. Begad! This nozzle I left straight.

Now t' complete t' top. Ya scallywag! Startin' at t' BT50 t' BT60 adapter, glue 2 large skewers and 2 toothpicks along the tube. Arrr! Attach two o' t' 7 BT5 tubes in line with t' toothpicks startin' at 9 from t' top o' t' BT50 tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Glue small plastic caps t' t' top o' these tubes. Glue t' nose assembly t' t' top. Aye aye! T' launch lugs should be in line with t' BT5 tubes


T' shock cord be cut in half. A provided screw eye was attached t' t' 80K nose cone. Aye aye! Blimey! I used some o' t' paper to make a trifold t' attach t' shock cord t' t' main tubes. Usin' t' snap swivels, one 12 parachute was attached t' t' top and t' other be attached t' t' main tube shock cord.
For version 1.1, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' bent balsa was attached t' t' fins on t' wings. Ahoy! Blimey! T' V beveled standoffs were attached over the win' fins. A missile be made usin' t' last BT5 tube, me hearties, t' fin can, t' display nozzle, and another small cap. Ahoy! Blimey! A missile rack be made with some ¼ x ¼ x 2 supports. Finally, two 1 x 3 supports were made t' support t' missile. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Your size may vary based on t' size o' your wifes cake savers (or other molds you may have used).




Flight:
Cuttin' things t' t' wire, t' night before I left for NERRF Im givin' this thin' a quick primer coat and 1
coat o' white. There were supposed t' be chances o' thunderstorms at NERRF and I be afraid t' field could be wet.
Water and cardboard dont mix. Aye aye! Blimey! So, on Saturday, me hearties, off t' NERRF 4 I went t' fly t' beast. Ya scallywag! As I previously stated,
the rocket was designed t' eject t' parachutes from t' top (I did nay discuss about t' holes I drilled through the
80K nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! As I was preppin' t' rocket, ya bilge rat, I noticed t' parachutes were tight. Begad! Arrr! This had me concerned. Arrr! I had not
glued t' 80K t' t' BT80 (fortunately), me bucko, so I taped this joint. Aye aye! Installed 2 D12-3 engines and got through t' RSO (he
did wince when I stated it only used two 12 parachutes). Avast, me proud beauty! While waitin' t' load, I had several comments askin' how
I kept all t' small pieces on. Avast, me proud beauty! I explained this be its first flight. Ahoy! We called a heads up flight. Arrr!
They launched t' HPR rockets, started t' LPR and stopped halfway! They then went t' more HPR and did not come back t' t' LPR. Ahoy! Avast! My rocket sat on t' pad for over an hour. Blimey! JINX! Finally, it launched. Blimey! It danced a bit on t' pad t' rocket weight was really too heavy for a 3/16 rod. Avast, me proud beauty! Also, I thought t' 3/16 rods were 4, but they were only 3. Well, blow me down! But, matey, t' rocket went up nice and straight. Begad! But those tight chutes did nay come out. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! The tape at t' transition let go crash. Begad! JINX!

I gathered up t' pieces. Well, blow me down! T' worst damage was t' wing. At least t' corn had tasted good.

As I previously stated, arrr, me hearties, me bucko, at this point I cut off t' 1.1 version o' t' launch lug and rebuilt it as version 1.2. I decided t' missile added too much weight, and I had no good place t' put it, so I left it off. Ahoy! I cut off the standoffs for t' tongue depressors and mounted them upside down. Avast! Well, matey, blow me down! It be also at this point when I changed t' t' shock cords t' connect at t' transition. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! So, matey, matey, I went back t' NERRF on Sunday. Ahoy! While loadin' t' engines, I had t' rocket leanin' against t' side o' me car. Avast, me proud beauty! I had t' grab something, me bucko, me bucko, and it fell over and cracked a fin. JINX! A quick glue repair and it be good t' go. Ahoy! I did nay have t' wait this time, me bucko, ya bilge rat, possible since I was now on t' ¼ rods. Again, I requested a heads up. Arrr! It launched beautifully straight, but when t' chutes came out t' one for t' main section tangled on t' launch lug skewers and landed hard. Ya scallywag! JINX! But at least t' top came down gently, arrr, and landed in one o' t' water filled irrigation ditches. Ya scallywag! JINX! JINX! JINX! Fortunately, it was only t' very tip with t' epoxy/BB filling. There be some minor damage t' t' rocket, but it was repairable. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I be goin' t' give up, but then t' contest got extended a week, just enough time for some repairs and painting. Begad!




My son and I went t' a local school yard and did 1 launch. Nice and straight, me bucko, me hearties, ya bilge rat, both chutes opened, matey, arrr, and a safe recovery! I be nay goin' t' tempt fate with another launch. One thin' I would say, t' rocket really needs 18 chutes minimum. Begad! Aye aye! While t' landin' did nay cause any damage, I did wince as it looked rather hard. Avast! However, ya bilge rat, I had to live with what I got t' 12 chutes.


Summary:
This was a great contest that challenged me. Blimey! Despite all me JINXes, I think I came up with somethin' special that
used almost all o' me parts. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! I guess t' only thin' I didn't try is puttin' t' rest o' t' parts into a blender...
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