Brief:
TLP's Indigo SAM is a 1/2.95 scale model o' a short-range anti-aircraft missile manufactured by Contraves Italiana and Sistel. Begad! It is a single stage, arrr, mid-power model rocket recovered by an 18" parachute.

Construction:
Since thar wasn't a previously posted review for this particular rocket, shiver me timbers, matey, I thought this might be helpful for anyone wishin' t' build a really cool lookin' scale model o' this Italian SAM. Begad! T' kit comes in t' familiar plastic bag, typical o' TLP kits. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! Included are two 2.6" diameter body tubes, tube coupler, a 3" x 24mm engine tube, engine clip, arrr, ya bilge rat, 2 centerin' rings (for engine tube), plastic nose cone, me bucko, clay (for nose weight), shiver me timbers, 2 narrow centerin' rings (for exhaust tube), ya bilge rat, matey, 1 centerin' rin' with 1" hole (for t' parachute compartment), 2 sheets o' 1/8" thick balsa stock, 4 balsa strips, ya bilge rat, a sheet o' heavy cardstock, a 1/4" dowel rod, me hearties, 1/4" shock cord, shroud line, shiver me timbers, 18" mylar parachute, cardstock shock cord mount, and brass barrel and snap swivels.

T' instructions are pretty easy t' follow for anyone who has built a few model rockets. T' engine assembly went together quickly. Simply cut a slot in t' engine tube 2.5" from t' end o' t' engine tube, matey, shiver me timbers, insert t' clip, wrap with tape, and glue t' centerin' rings 1/4" from t' ends. Arrr! T' rings fit well, ya bilge rat, no sandin' needed. Begad! Begad! One centerin' rin' is slotted for t' engine clip which makes changin' motors a snap.

Next up was cuttin' out and formin' t' tail cone from t' cardstock. Ya scallywag! Nay too difficult, shiver me timbers, but I found that formin' t' tail cone over a steamin' cup o' hot water made things a lot easier. Aye aye! Arrr! This was followed by insertin' t' exhaust tube into t' tail cone and gluin' t' narrow centerin' rings. Ahoy! T' tail cone assembly was then painted with CA glue t' toughen it up.

Like other TLP kits, this one calls for a pointy nosecone extension made from t' supplied cardstock. Arrr! Once again, this is nay too difficult but do take your time t' make sure it's aligned correctly before committin' t' glue. Aye aye! I formed t' extension first and then tacked in place with maskin' tape. Ya scallywag! Once t' nosecone extension was glued, matey, I followed up with Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler t' fill in t' seams.

Next step be t' insert and glue t' centerin' rin' with 1" hole for t' parachute compartment. Ya scallywag! Since this has t' wind up 6" from t' forward end o' t' body tube, I taped off a piece o' dowel rod 6" from t' end, me bucko, spread some aliphatic resin along t' inside o' t' body tube, me hearties, and carefully poked t' centerin' rin' into place. Blimey! Once t' wood glue be dry, I added a few drops o' CA glue t' secure t' centerin' ring.

T' second body tube be joined t' t' first with t' supplied coupler and glued into place. T' make sure both tubes were aligned, arrr, I rolled t' joined tubes on a flat surface before t' glue set.

T' conduit strips were then sanded, ya bilge rat, shaped, me hearties, and glued t' t' body tube. T' fins were cut out o' t' supplied balsa stock usin' t' patterns provided. T' balsa be pretty flimsy but strengthenin' with thin CA glue and laminatin' with printer paper resulted in very smooth and tough fins.

Final details include cuttin' and shapin' t' 1/4" dowel rod into t' aft fin antennae. Avast! Blimey! Pretty simple, just cut with a razor saw, shape with an emery board, me bucko, and glue t' t' aft fins.

Mount t' aft fins in a cruciform pattern. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I used an Estes fin alignment guide t' do this. In spite o' me best efforts, me bucko, shiver me timbers, one fin be misaligned and had t' be reattached. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Blimey! I aligned t' forward wings usin' two aluminum yardsticks and clothespins t' make sure they lined up with t' aft fins.

Glue fillets were made usin' aliphatic resin along t' seams for t' fins and conduit strips. Begad! Blimey! All o' t' fin joints seemed pretty sturdy with t' exception o' t' one reattached fin. Avast! CA glue and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler were used t' finish t' fillets.

Finishing:
Finishin' this model was a lot o' fun. TLP suggests a simple two-tone blue and white paint scheme t' replicate t' real thing. Avast! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This particular rocket doesn't require any special graphics, and as with other kits from TLP, decals are nay included. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' nice thin' about nay includin' decals is that it presents t' builder with more choices and challenges. Avast! Blimey! You can either make your own decals with your PC or do what I did and go with your own theme.

With college football season approaching, me bucko, I thought it might be fun t' go with a yellow, green, me hearties, and black paint scheme t' match t' football uniforms worn by t' University o' Oregon Ducks.

T' entire rocket be primed usin' Kilz Original and sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, ya bilge rat, me bucko, twice. Well, blow me down! A base coat o' Krylon Sun Yellow was then applied followed by Hunter Green stripes on t' nosecone, mid-body, me hearties, and aft fins. Blimey! Begad! Gloss Black was then applied t' t' forward wings, arrr, nosecone, me hearties, and tail cone. Arrr! Ahoy! Finishin' touches were made usin' a diamond plate pattern cut from Frisket maskin' film on t' forward wings and painted Gray Pewter. Next step was t' cut out t' University o' Oregon athletics logo from Frisket film, apply t' stencil t' t' forward part o' t' rocket, and paint Hunter Green.

Finally, t' green, me hearties, yellow, arrr, arrr, me hearties, and black bands were separated with chrome mylar pinstripin' tape purchased from an auto parts store. Ahoy! Begad! T' end result is a stunnin' lookin' rocket that has since received a lot o' positive feedback from everyone who has seen it.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
I've only flown this rocket once. Well, blow me down! A D12-3 was t' motor o' choice for t' maiden flight. Aye aye! A 4 foot long, matey, 3/16" launch rod be used as t' 3' Estes rod seemed a little short for a large rocket like this. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! 5 sheets o' waddin' was used t' protect t' mylar parachute. Aye aye! Liftoff was slow and realistic. Avast, me proud beauty! Because this is a heavy rocket for a D12 motor, ya bilge rat, it struggled t' get aloft and altitude be only about 250'. Aye aye! Next flight will use an E15-4 engine.

Recovery:
Three seconds doesn't seem like a long time for a delay, but it can seem like an eternity when thar's nay a whole lot o' space betwixt your rocket and terra firma. Ya scallywag! T' chute deployed just in time but she came down hard, breakin' off a fin and t' pointy nosecone extension. Blimey! Blimey! Flight damage has since been repaired and will fly again. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Nice comments from t' spectators present made this flight worthwhile. I plan on goin' with a 24" parachute and an E15-4 motor next time out.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Summary:
I really enjoyed buildin' and finishin' this rocket. T' challenge o' makin' nose and tail cone extensions along with alignin' multiple sets o' fins made this a fun kit t' build. Begad! T' first con is that while D motors work well for smaller TLP rockets (Anubis, me hearties, Bolo, Perseus), ya bilge rat, this particular model needs t' fly on an E motor or higher. T' other con is that an 18" parachute will help t' brin' it down near t' launchpad, matey, just don't expect a soft landing. I don't know if epoxy is really necessary, arrr, just make sure you do a good job on t' aft fin joints before flyin' this model.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5