Brief:
TLP's Indigo SAM is a 1/2.95 scale model o' a short-range anti-aircraft missile manufactured by Contraves Italiana and Sistel. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! It is a single stage, mid-power model rocket recovered by an 18" parachute.

Construction:
Since thar wasn't a previously posted review for this particular rocket, I thought this might be helpful for anyone wishin' t' build a really cool lookin' scale model o' this Italian SAM. Avast, me proud beauty! T' kit comes in t' familiar plastic bag, typical o' TLP kits. Avast! Blimey! Included are two 2.6" diameter body tubes, matey, tube coupler, me bucko, a 3" x 24mm engine tube, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, engine clip, me bucko, 2 centerin' rings (for engine tube), arrr, plastic nose cone, me bucko, clay (for nose weight), 2 narrow centerin' rings (for exhaust tube), 1 centerin' rin' with 1" hole (for t' parachute compartment), me hearties, 2 sheets o' 1/8" thick balsa stock, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, 4 balsa strips, a sheet o' heavy cardstock, shiver me timbers, a 1/4" dowel rod, 1/4" shock cord, ya bilge rat, me bucko, shroud line, me bucko, shiver me timbers, 18" mylar parachute, arrr, cardstock shock cord mount, me hearties, and brass barrel and snap swivels.

T' instructions are pretty easy t' follow for anyone who has built a few model rockets. T' engine assembly went together quickly. Begad! Blimey! Simply cut a slot in t' engine tube 2.5" from t' end o' t' engine tube, arrr, ya bilge rat, insert t' clip, me bucko, ya bilge rat, wrap with tape, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and glue t' centerin' rings 1/4" from t' ends. Aye aye! Blimey! T' rings fit well, no sandin' needed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! One centerin' rin' is slotted for t' engine clip which makes changin' motors a snap.

Next up was cuttin' out and formin' t' tail cone from t' cardstock. Arrr! Ahoy! Nay too difficult, but I found that formin' t' tail cone over a steamin' cup o' hot water made things a lot easier. Blimey! This be followed by insertin' t' exhaust tube into t' tail cone and gluin' t' narrow centerin' rings. Ahoy! Blimey! T' tail cone assembly was then painted with CA glue t' toughen it up.

Like other TLP kits, me hearties, this one calls for a pointy nosecone extension made from t' supplied cardstock. Avast! Begad! Once again, this is nay too difficult but do take your time t' make sure it's aligned correctly before committin' t' glue. I formed t' extension first and then tacked in place with maskin' tape. Once t' nosecone extension was glued, me bucko, I followed up with Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler t' fill in t' seams.

Next step was t' insert and glue t' centerin' rin' with 1" hole for t' parachute compartment. Ya scallywag! Since this has t' wind up 6" from t' forward end o' t' body tube, I taped off a piece o' dowel rod 6" from t' end, matey, arrr, spread some aliphatic resin along t' inside o' t' body tube, and carefully poked t' centerin' rin' into place. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Once t' wood glue be dry, arrr, I added a few drops o' CA glue t' secure t' centerin' ring.

T' second body tube was joined t' t' first with t' supplied coupler and glued into place. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! T' make sure both tubes were aligned, I rolled t' joined tubes on a flat surface before t' glue set.

T' conduit strips were then sanded, shiver me timbers, shaped, and glued t' t' body tube. Ya scallywag! T' fins were cut out o' t' supplied balsa stock usin' t' patterns provided. Ahoy! Begad! T' balsa was pretty flimsy but strengthenin' with thin CA glue and laminatin' with printer paper resulted in very smooth and tough fins.

Final details include cuttin' and shapin' t' 1/4" dowel rod into t' aft fin antennae. Avast! Pretty simple, just cut with a razor saw, shape with an emery board, shiver me timbers, and glue t' t' aft fins.

Mount t' aft fins in a cruciform pattern. I used an Estes fin alignment guide t' do this. Begad! Avast! Blimey! In spite o' me best efforts, one fin be misaligned and had t' be reattached. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! I aligned t' forward wings usin' two aluminum yardsticks and clothespins t' make sure they lined up with t' aft fins.

Glue fillets were made usin' aliphatic resin along t' seams for t' fins and conduit strips. All o' t' fin joints seemed pretty sturdy with t' exception o' t' one reattached fin. Aye aye! CA glue and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler were used t' finish t' fillets.

Finishing:
Finishin' this model was a lot o' fun. Ya scallywag! Blimey! TLP suggests a simple two-tone blue and white paint scheme t' replicate t' real thing. This particular rocket doesn't require any special graphics, ya bilge rat, and as with other kits from TLP, me hearties, decals are nay included. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' nice thin' about nay includin' decals is that it presents t' builder with more choices and challenges. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! You can either make your own decals with your PC or do what I did and go with your own theme.

With college football season approaching, ya bilge rat, I thought it might be fun t' go with a yellow, green, and black paint scheme t' match t' football uniforms worn by t' University o' Oregon Ducks.

T' entire rocket was primed usin' Kilz Original and sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, arrr, twice. Aye aye! A base coat o' Krylon Sun Yellow was then applied followed by Hunter Green stripes on t' nosecone, mid-body, and aft fins. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Gloss Black was then applied t' t' forward wings, matey, nosecone, and tail cone. Avast! Finishin' touches were made usin' a diamond plate pattern cut from Frisket maskin' film on t' forward wings and painted Gray Pewter. Avast! Next step was t' cut out t' University o' Oregon athletics logo from Frisket film, apply t' stencil t' t' forward part o' t' rocket, matey, and paint Hunter Green.

Finally, matey, t' green, shiver me timbers, yellow, and black bands were separated with chrome mylar pinstripin' tape purchased from an auto parts store. Blimey! T' end result is a stunnin' lookin' rocket that has since received a lot o' positive feedback from everyone who has seen it.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
I've only flown this rocket once. Ahoy! Blimey! A D12-3 was t' motor o' choice for t' maiden flight. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! A 4 foot long, shiver me timbers, 3/16" launch rod was used as t' 3' Estes rod seemed a little short for a large rocket like this. 5 sheets o' waddin' was used t' protect t' mylar parachute. Begad! Blimey! Liftoff be slow and realistic. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Because this is a heavy rocket for a D12 motor, it struggled t' get aloft and altitude was only about 250'. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Next flight will use an E15-4 engine.

Recovery:
Three seconds doesn't seem like a long time for a delay, ya bilge rat, but it can seem like an eternity when thar's nay a whole lot o' space betwixt your rocket and terra firma. Avast! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! T' chute deployed just in time but she came down hard, me hearties, breakin' off a fin and t' pointy nosecone extension. Aye aye! Arrr! Flight damage has since been repaired and will fly again. Begad! Nice comments from t' spectators present made this flight worthwhile. Aye aye! I plan on goin' with a 24" parachute and an E15-4 motor next time out.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Summary:
I really enjoyed buildin' and finishin' this rocket. T' challenge o' makin' nose and tail cone extensions along with alignin' multiple sets o' fins made this a fun kit t' build. T' first con is that while D motors work well for smaller TLP rockets (Anubis, ya bilge rat, Bolo, Perseus), arrr, this particular model needs t' fly on an E motor or higher. Ya scallywag! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! T' other con is that an 18" parachute will help t' brin' it down near t' launchpad, just don't expect a soft landing. Avast! Aye aye! I don't know if epoxy is really necessary, just make sure you do a good job on t' aft fin joints before flyin' this model.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5