Brief:
Based on t' original Estes Goony Bird, arrr, t' Zoom Broom. Well, blow me down! Late last year t' original concept sketches for t' Goonybirds appeared. Arrr! Blimey! Estes used t' Goony profiles but changed the graphics before they were released. Begad! Arrr! Due t' t' interest generated by t' original sketches, Semroc chose t' release a new line o' Goonies called t' Groonies. Ahoy! Carl, t' owner and founder o' Semroc, refered t' these as "Grown-up Goonies", hence "Groonies". Blimey! Blimey! Slightly larger and with an edgier theme, here it is as it was intended t' be. See Chan's review for more details.

Construction:
Semroc parts are about as good as it gets. Ahoy! Aye aye! As noted in t' previous review, t' balsa is a little softer compared t' some other LPR kits I've encountered. Begad! T' laser cut fins are welcomed, shiver me timbers, and all parts fit with precision. Ahoy! One important thin' t' note, arrr, this is nay BT-60 based like t' original Goonies. Avast! Blimey! It's slightly upscaled and has a different nose cone profile. Here be t' official parts list:

• 1 Balsa Nose Cone- BC-1828D
• 1 Body Tube- ST-1860
• 1 Body Tube(motor tube)- ST-730E
• 1 Centerin' rin' set- CR-KV-11
• 1 Laser cut fin set- FV-11
• 1 Thrust ring- TR-7
• 1 Elastic shock cord
• 1 Keelhaul®©™ thread (shock leader)
• 1 Screw eye
• 1 1/8" launch lug
• 1 engine hook
• 1 plywood block(nose weight bulkhead)
• 1 clay weight
• 1 12" plastic parachute
• 1 waterslide decal sheet

Instructions are well written and well illustrated. Ahoy! Arrr! Assembly was a breeze. Aye aye! I chose t' laminate t' fins with sticker paper and sealed t' edges with thin CA. This is a very quick, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, clean, ya bilge rat, easy method for strengthenin' fins and fillin' balsa grain. Begad! Aye aye! This is full sheet label paper that you can find at most or t' larger office supply stores. Aye aye! T' generic store brand will do. Ahoy! With t' size and shape o' t' irregular fins, ya bilge rat, arrr, I wanted t' added strength. Arrr! I sometimes wonder if it is an overkill t' laminate, but Chan's review has convinced me that I made t' right decision t' do so on this model.

T' motor mount slides up into t' main body tube a good ways. Blimey! Aye aye! This causes t' end o' t' body t' be exposed t' hot motor exhaust. Avast! I assume it is configured this way for stability reasons. Aye aye! In order t' protect t' body tube from t' heat, matey, t' instructions suggest usin' CA t' reinforce and protect that area. Begad! Ya scallywag! I chose t' use a thin smear o' epoxy instead. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! I'm sure CA works, arrr, but I thought epoxy might hold up longer.

A decent amount o' nose weight (included) is needed for stability. This is provided in t' form o' clay which gets inserted into t' pre-bored nose cone. Begad! A plywood sealin' cap is provided t' hold t' clay in place. Avast! While I had t' epoxy mixed up, shiver me timbers, I glued t' cap into place which also adds some extra reinforcement t' t' screw eye.

T' tube markin' guide in t' instructions did its job just fine. I would suggest gluin' t' fins in t' order specified in t' instructions. Begad! Once t' main wings are glued into place, you can use them as a guide t' match t' wheel fin angles.

Finishing:
Since I chose t' laminate t' fins, thar wasn't any balsa grain that needed t' be filled. Ya scallywag! I rounded t' fins slightly.

T' balsa nose cone was coated with a liberal dose o' Minwax Wood Hardener then lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper a few days later. Avast! Well, me bucko, blow me down! This does exactly what t' name would imply. Blimey! I love t' stuff. Ya scallywag! This was followed with a nice coat o' Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish t' fill any wood grain then sanded smooth with 400 grit sandpaper.

I used Krylon gray primer, followed by 3-4 coats o' Krylon Gloss White. Cone and win' tips were painted with Krylon Banner Red.

I applied t' decals. Aye aye! Blimey! T' decals must be trimmed very close t' t' graphics in order t' fit, me hearties, matey, but they do fit. T' decals are very easy t' apply and give ample time for placement. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Note: T' wheel well and tire decals need t' need t' be dealt with and applied as two pieces in order t' fit properly.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
T' motor tube is a little longer than t' standard length. This is actually a good thin' in me opinion. Avast! Ya scallywag! I used that extra length t' stuff a piece o' recovery waddin' into it. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! I think it helped buffer some o' t' initial ejection blast. Well, blow me down! I placed about three more sheets in t' main body tube and still had plenty o' room for t' chute. Well, blow me down! This is a short rocket and space is limited for recovery parts, but it's nay overly cramped.

For t' first flight, arrr, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, I chose a C6-5. Our club field is rather large so I felt confident with this motor. Begad! Great lookin' boost and went much straighter than I anticipated. Arrr! It's Japanese brother, T' Saki, me hearties, actually wind cocked a little more than this one so I be pleasantly surprised this one didn't do t' same. Well, blow me down! More flights are needed for a better assessment. Both still turned in some great flights. Arrr! Begad! Ejection just past apogee.

Recovery:
T' 12" chute seemed adequate t' me. Avast! Blimey! With t' slight breeze I'd say it be sized just about right. Blimey! Aye aye! If t' fins weren't laminated, I might be a little nervous. Minimal drift and recovered within 75 yards o' t' pad. Ahoy! No damage.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
PROs: It's a Semroc! 'Nuff said.

CONs: Balsa might need reinforcement.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5