Brief:
Based on t' original Estes Goony Bird, t' Zoom Broom. Begad! Late last year t' original concept sketches for t' Goonybirds appeared. Avast, me proud beauty! Estes used t' Goony profiles but changed the graphics before they were released. Due t' t' interest generated by t' original sketches, Semroc chose t' release a new line o' Goonies called t' Groonies. Begad! Carl, arrr, t' owner and founder o' Semroc, me bucko, me bucko, refered t' these as "Grown-up Goonies", matey, hence "Groonies". Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Slightly larger and with an edgier theme, me hearties, arrr, here it is as it was intended t' be. See Chan's review for more details.

Construction:
Semroc parts are about as good as it gets. As noted in t' previous review, ya bilge rat, t' balsa is a little softer compared t' some other LPR kits I've encountered. Begad! Blimey! T' laser cut fins are welcomed, and all parts fit with precision. Avast! Blimey! One important thin' t' note, this is nay BT-60 based like t' original Goonies. Aye aye! Blimey! It's slightly upscaled and has a different nose cone profile. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Here be t' official parts list:

• 1 Balsa Nose Cone- BC-1828D
• 1 Body Tube- ST-1860
• 1 Body Tube(motor tube)- ST-730E
• 1 Centerin' rin' set- CR-KV-11
• 1 Laser cut fin set- FV-11
• 1 Thrust ring- TR-7
• 1 Elastic shock cord
• 1 Keelhaul®©™ thread (shock leader)
• 1 Screw eye
• 1 1/8" launch lug
• 1 engine hook
• 1 plywood block(nose weight bulkhead)
• 1 clay weight
• 1 12" plastic parachute
• 1 waterslide decal sheet

Instructions are well written and well illustrated. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Assembly was a breeze. Aye aye! I chose t' laminate t' fins with sticker paper and sealed t' edges with thin CA. Avast! This is a very quick, shiver me timbers, clean, easy method for strengthenin' fins and fillin' balsa grain. This is full sheet label paper that you can find at most or t' larger office supply stores. Blimey! T' generic store brand will do. Aye aye! With t' size and shape o' t' irregular fins, I wanted t' added strength. Begad! I sometimes wonder if it is an overkill t' laminate, but Chan's review has convinced me that I made t' right decision t' do so on this model.

T' motor mount slides up into t' main body tube a good ways. This causes t' end o' t' body t' be exposed t' hot motor exhaust. Ya scallywag! I assume it is configured this way for stability reasons. In order t' protect t' body tube from t' heat, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' instructions suggest usin' CA t' reinforce and protect that area. I chose t' use a thin smear o' epoxy instead. Ya scallywag! I'm sure CA works, but I thought epoxy might hold up longer.

A decent amount o' nose weight (included) is needed for stability. This is provided in t' form o' clay which gets inserted into t' pre-bored nose cone. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! A plywood sealin' cap is provided t' hold t' clay in place. Well, blow me down! Blimey! While I had t' epoxy mixed up, arrr, me hearties, I glued t' cap into place which also adds some extra reinforcement t' t' screw eye.

T' tube markin' guide in t' instructions did its job just fine. Begad! Aye aye! I would suggest gluin' t' fins in t' order specified in t' instructions. Once t' main wings are glued into place, you can use them as a guide t' match t' wheel fin angles.

Finishing:
Since I chose t' laminate t' fins, thar wasn't any balsa grain that needed t' be filled. Ahoy! I rounded t' fins slightly.

T' balsa nose cone be coated with a liberal dose o' Minwax Wood Hardener then lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper a few days later. Arrr! Avast! This does exactly what t' name would imply. Begad! Well, blow me down! I love t' stuff. Aye aye! This was followed with a nice coat o' Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish t' fill any wood grain then sanded smooth with 400 grit sandpaper.

I used Krylon gray primer, ya bilge rat, matey, followed by 3-4 coats o' Krylon Gloss White. Ahoy! Cone and win' tips were painted with Krylon Banner Red.

I applied t' decals. Arrr! T' decals must be trimmed very close t' t' graphics in order t' fit, me bucko, but they do fit. Arrr! Ahoy! T' decals are very easy t' apply and give ample time for placement. Ahoy! Ahoy! Note: T' wheel well and tire decals need t' need t' be dealt with and applied as two pieces in order t' fit properly.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
T' motor tube is a little longer than t' standard length. Ahoy! This is actually a good thin' in me opinion. Begad! I used that extra length t' stuff a piece o' recovery waddin' into it. Ahoy! I think it helped buffer some o' t' initial ejection blast. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! I placed about three more sheets in t' main body tube and still had plenty o' room for t' chute. Ya scallywag! This is a short rocket and space is limited for recovery parts, matey, me bucko, but it's nay overly cramped.

For t' first flight, I chose a C6-5. Begad! Our club field is rather large so I felt confident with this motor. Begad! Great lookin' boost and went much straighter than I anticipated. Blimey! It's Japanese brother, me bucko, T' Saki, me hearties, actually wind cocked a little more than this one so I was pleasantly surprised this one didn't do t' same. Begad! More flights are needed for a better assessment. Both still turned in some great flights. Avast, me proud beauty! Ejection just past apogee.

Recovery:
T' 12" chute seemed adequate t' me. Well, blow me down! With t' slight breeze I'd say it was sized just about right. Ya scallywag! If t' fins weren't laminated, I might be a little nervous. Aye aye! Minimal drift and recovered within 75 yards o' t' pad. Blimey! No damage.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
PROs: It's a Semroc! 'Nuff said.

CONs: Balsa might need reinforcement.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5