Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 0.98 inches |
Length: | 14.40 inches |
Manufacturer: | FlisKits |
Skill Level: | 3 |
Style: | Futuristic/Exotic |
Brief:
This rocket is a 18mm futuristic space fighter usin' parachute recovery system. Avast! When I became a BAR, arrr, I found numerous
kits that I absolutely HAD t' have. Ahoy! Many o' them came from Fliskits. Arrr! T' problem be I was well aware o' me technical
skills and was loathe t' butcher such nice projects. Ya scallywag! As a result, arrr, arrr, I spent a lot o' time workin' on simple "level 1
and 2" rockets while starin' wistfully at t' cool designs in t' 3, arrr, 4 and 5 bins. Avast, me proud beauty! I finally decided t' give one
of t' nicer lookin' ones a try and picked t' Fliskits Stingray t' embrace. I figured that most o' those kits look so
good, some o' t' reflected glory might rub off on me.
Construction:
Other reviews have listed t' parts so I will not. Begad! Aye aye! Rest assured, ya bilge rat, me bucko, they were all present and o' good quality.
Construction begins by markin' t' motor tube and cuttin' a slit for t' retainer clip. T' clip is held in place with
maskin' tape and a thrust rin' is inserted. Avast! There are two centerin' rings and each needs t' be modified. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' first one
has an 1/8" sector removed t' accommodate t' retainer clip and t' second has a small notch cut in it t' allow
the Keelhaul®©™®
shock cord t' pass. Begad! Blimey! Both rings are held in place with white glue.
T' shock cord is attached t' t' motor mount by tyin' a slip knot around the motor tube and then passin' t' thread through t' notch cut above. Aye aye! T' motor mount is then slid into place and glued into t' body tube. It should be noted that this kit is designed so that t' motor mount hangs out a good ways past the end o' t' BT.
Now that t' BT and motor mount were ready, shiver me timbers, I needed t' transfer t' marks for t' fins, cannon mounts, etc. Ya scallywag! t' the BT. Aye aye! This was done by means o' a wrap around guide and be easily achieved. T' lines were marked, identified and extend the length o' t' BT.
Apparently, me bucko, some o' t' wrap kits provided as accessories for this kit include a wrap for t' body tube. Arrr! Mine did not. Begad! If it had been included, ya bilge rat, it would be at this point that t' instructions would have sent me off t' apply t' wrap to t' BT. Afterwards, t' builder is instructed t' return t' t' same place in t' instructions and continue from there. Ahoy! In me case, I just got started on t' next step.
T' next step was t' actually cut balsa. Aye aye! Blimey! Except for an old Estes Mosquito, ya bilge rat, this be t' first time I have had t' do this since me return as a BAR. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! It is probably what made me t' most nervous but it turned out t' nay be too bad. Blimey! T' kit comes with paper templates that are cut out and then used t' trace a line around t' pristine sheet material provided. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! This was easily achieved but I cannot emphasize t' importance of usin' both a sharp pencil for t' markin' and a sharp knife for t' cutting. I decided t' cut out all me pieces at once.
When t' pieces were cut, me bucko, matey, I went on t' t' next step where I was instructed t' sand an 1/8" bevel into the leadin' edges o' t' two fins. Arrr! T' do this, me hearties, I marked o' t' 1/8 inch and then placed a line o' cellophane tape across the length o' t' fin. Arrr! Begad! I did t' same with t' reverse side. T' tape was then used t' give me a guide as I was sanding and prevent me from sandin' too far.
T' after bulkhead was also assembled at this stage. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' template provides for two pieces which are almost mirror images o' each other. Each o' these pieces needs t' be marked on both sides in terms o' left and right and upper and lower. Aye aye! Blimey! When t' pieces are cut out, a slight bevel is sanded into t' forward facin' edges in order t' accommodate the body wrap shroud. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Then each o' t' two bulkheads is cut in half t' make a total o' four pieces. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! These pieces are then glued, 2 per fin, shiver me timbers, t' t' root edges o' t' fins. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Alignment is critical so t' template provides a mark for 1/8" in along t' trailin' edge. Begad! Blimey! This mark must be transferred t' t' bulkhead and then used t' match t' edge o' t' fins.
At this point, ya bilge rat, thar be another directive t' see special instructions if you are usin' one o' t' wrap kits. Arrr! Ya scallywag! I dutifully turned t' t' appropriate instruction and learned that it be time t' seal and paint t' fins before applying the wraps. Avast! I did so with Elmer's Fill 'N Seal® and then sprayed t' fins black. Arrr! I need only have bothered with t' trailin' edge but I went ahead and painted most of the fins.
When t' paint was dry, shiver me timbers, matey, me hearties, t' wraps for t' fins were carefully cut out with a razor knife. Begad! T' wraps include a scorin' line that aligns along t' bevel on t' leadin' edges which I scored with t' razor knife. Aye aye! Unfortunately, matey, shiver me timbers, I pressed a little too hard with t' first pass and cut too deeply. Begad! Arrr! That did makin' loadin' it in half a snap, though. T' outer edge o' t' fin is then aligned with t' end o' t' wrap and t' whole fin is carefully set into t' crease. T' instructions recommend and I heartily support practicin' this a few time before peelin' t' backin' off o' the wrap. Arrr! When you think you have it down, peel t' backin' and press t' wrap onto t' fin. Blimey! T' procedure is then repeated on t' opposite side.
T' wingtips likewise are supposed t' be filled and finished before apply the wraps. Here is where me brain broke down. Ya scallywag! Bein' lazy, ya bilge rat, early in t' morning, me bucko, I hit on t' bright idea o' usin' white glue t' fill t' edges. Well, blow me down! It was already out and t' Fill 'N Finish be all t' way out in t' garage.
Bad idea. Begad! I suppose it could work eventually but takes too long t' dry, t' balsa seems t' drink t' stuff and sandin' is a nightmare. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! In any event, instead o' paintin' t' edges black, matey, me bucko, I opted for paintin' them red for contrast.
Strangely enough, matey, I found that applyin' t' stickers for t' win' tips was more difficult than applyin' t' wraps to t' wings. Ahoy! This be because o' t' shape. Well, me hearties, blow me down! T' stickers were easy enough t' cut out; I opted for usin' scissors for this step. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! I then peel a little bit off t' back and tried t' get t' balsa centered. Avast! Avast! That was more easily said than done. Blimey! T' balsa I had cut was nay perfect and it shows especially since t' red o' t' balsa contrasts with t' black of t' stickers. Avast, me proud beauty! T' instructions noted that I might have t' trim t' sticker but I would up with a surplus o' balsa and no trimmin' be needed. Aye aye! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! When both wingtips were done, I sealed t' edges with white glue as per t' instructions.
T' next step returned me t' t' main thread o' t' instructions t' mount the wings t' t' BT. In t' interest o' strength, me bucko, I used a safety pin t' perforate t' root edges o' t' wings and t' BT along t' installation line t' form glue "rivets." Then it be a matter o' test fittin' each win' against the BT. Begad! It is critically important at this step t' ensure that t' root edge o' t' win' lies flush against t' BT. Ya scallywag! Begad! I had to do some sandin' on t' aft bulkhead t' make this happen. Begad! Avast! When all seemed t' fit right, I glued on t' left wing. After waitin' a decent amount o' time for t' glue t' set, I glued on t' right wing.
Since this wrap kit did nay include a body wrap, ya bilge rat, t' instructions indicate it is time t' paint. Aye aye! Much o' the rearward part o' t' body will be hidden by t' final paper shroud so it be t' front o' t' rocket that is important here. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! I wrapped t' tale in aluminum foil held down with maskin' tape and painted t' rest o' t' BT black.
After a few coats o' black paint, I let t' BT dry and got t' work on me sermon. Ya scallywag! Blimey! As a reward for finishin' the sermon without too much rambling, I decided t' spend some late time workin' on t' Stingray. Aye aye! Avast! I was pleased with the paint and set about workin' on t' main body shroud.
T' main body wrap be t' final part o' t' special instructions for the Maelstrom body wrap. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! T' basic Stingray comes with a 2 piece white shroud. Avast, me proud beauty! T' Maelstrom comes with a one piece, nicely decorated shroud.
Cuttin' out around t' outer edges was nay too onerous. I made sure I had a fresh blade and a steel ruler and started t' cut. Aye aye! Blimey! After it was removed from t' rest o' t' card stock, me hearties, ya bilge rat, I used t' razor knife t' lightly score t' lines where it will need t' be folded. Then came t' hard part. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I had t' cut out t' central oval. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I took this slowly but was not particularly pleased with me work. Aye aye! Blimey! I did, arrr, on average, manage t' cut out too little rather than too much but the curves did nay flow well for me. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I never did like cuttin' curves. Begad! Blimey! I managed t' solve part o' t' problem with 220# sandpaper. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I sanded around t' inner edge until I be more (as opposed t' completely) satisfied with t' result.
When t' shroud be cut out and scored, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I prefolded it and test fitted t' two halves together. I found a few more places where I needed t' even things up but a little sandin' and a little razorin' took care o' that. Avast, me proud beauty! Then it was just a matter o' gluin' t' halves together usin' t' tabs. Arrr! It didn't look too bad.
Then tragedy struck. Begad! I test fitted t' shroud around t' BT. Begad! At that point I learned that I had grossly misjudged what would and what would nay be exposed. With that, I remasked and set out t' repaint t' BT.
When t' repainted BT was ready, I tried slippin' t' shroud around t' body t' check t' fit. Avast! I found a few tight places, matey, me hearties, which were treated with a razor or sandpaper, arrr, and that I had nay given t' after bulkhead enough o' a chamfer. That was smartly treated with some sandpaper as well. Avast! When I was happy with t' fit, me bucko, it was time for t' most tedious and, for me, difficult portion o' t' project.
I traced t' outline o' t' shroud on t' BT and then removed t' shroud. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I then applied white glue along the outline and slid t' shroud back into place. A little tuggin' and coaxin' and it was in place. T' directions say at this point t' hold everythin' in place so that t' shroud makes full contact with all interfaces until t' glue dries. THAT WAS THE HARD PART FOR ME! Maybe I have failed t' mention me issues with patience...
It was nay all that hard except that I hate waiting. NOTE TO MR. Blimey! Begad! FLIS: I would gladly pay much extra for some sort of jig t' do this for me; t' kids were nay willing. Well, blow me down! It be worth it, though. Ahoy! Aye aye!
When I could safely let go o' t' body and shroud, ya bilge rat, I got t' work on t' gun mounts. Aye aye! Ahoy! I had previously cut these out and assembly was fairly easy. Ahoy! T' upright portion is sandwiched betwixt two plates. Blimey! It is held together with white glue and a piece o' sawn toothpick is glued t' t' upright t' be t' gun. When it was together, me hearties, I found that me precision in cuttin' was better than I expected but nay good enough. I used a sanding block t' even things out and then wrapped some sandpaper around t' BT in order t' sand a curve into t' mounts. I then applied some sealer and set it aside t' dry. Unfortunately, t' only photos that came out are without t' toothpicks.
T' wingtips are fairly easy t' attach t' t' wings. Blimey! T' body wraps provide a cutout place where t' edge o' the fin is t' intersect t' wingtips. Ahoy! Ahoy! I again used a safety pin t' perforate both balsa surfaces and form glue rivets. I then glued t' tips on and checked for straightness and alignment. Begad! Havin' them in place made a huge difference in the appearance o' t' rocket.
T' launch lug mount was also simple. Arrr! Blimey! T' lug is glued t' an angled piece o' balsa. Ahoy! When it has set, a razor is used t' cut t' lug at t' same angle as t' mount.
Since I had a bit more time before bed, shiver me timbers, I decided t' seal t' nosecone. Begad! I glued in t' eye screw, painted with Elmer's Fill 'n Finish, shiver me timbers, and hung it up t' dry.
Now was t' time for detail work. Begad! Blimey! I sealed t' cannon mounts and launch lug, arrr, ya bilge rat, sanded them down and primed with white spray. Begad! I figured that finishin' them after they were mounted would be a nightmare so I decided t' finish them now. Ya scallywag! I also decided t' hand paint them.
T' bases for both were painted a Tamiya color called bronze. Begad! When I opened it up, shiver me timbers, it be a bit grayer than I had imagined but still serviceable. Aye aye! T' launch lug itself as well as t' center supports for t' canon were painted with Tamiya copper. Copper is me favorite metallic shade and I tend t' use it whenever I have an excuse. Begad! T' guns themselves were painted red.
While those were drying, ya bilge rat, I sanded down t' nosecone and used an emory board t' sharpen up t' diameter stepdown. I then primed it with white spray.
Figurin' that betwixt sprayin' t' nosecone and takin' time out t' help t' stepson with some chemistry homework, it be safe t' handle t' little pieces again. I realized that I had made another blunder. Arrr! Back when t' BT had originally been marked, shiver me timbers, marks were laid down for t' cannon mounts and launch lug. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' black paint had completely obliterated them. Ahoy! Aye aye! Wantin' t' do a better job on t' alignment than could be had from me deadlights alone, matey, I printed a sheet with t' alignment wrap. (I always make PDFs o' instructions, shiver me timbers, balsa, me bucko, templates and such before startin' a build.)I then wrapped t' alignment sheet around t' BT and held it closed with some tape. Blimey! Aye aye! Usin' that and alignin' with t' wings by my deadlights I felt I could come close t' t' "right" place.
I used a razor knife t' nick t' paint 1/2" back from t' front o' t' BT along t' cannon mount lines. Begad! Blimey! I then transferred t' length o' t' mounts t' t' BT with another light nick. A file was then used t' remove t' paint along the lin' o' t' cannon mounts. Begad! Blimey! A safety pin was used t' make perforations in both t' t' root edges o' t' mounts and in the BT t' form glue rivets and t' mounts were glued in place.
T' launch lug be similarly attached but I did one more thin' t' make sure it be straight. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I took a short section o' 1/8" rod and used that t' help align t' lug.
After t' nosecone had been sprayed black, ya bilge rat, arrr, I decided I wanted t' add a little bit o' contrast. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! I decided t' paint t' part o' t' nose cone that is stepped down, matey, but nay t' part that fits in the BT, t' same colored bronze that I used on t' cannon mounts. Begad! I masked accordingly and painted it by hand. Ahoy! Then it be a simple matter t' cut out t' sticker for t' cockpit and put it in place. Ahoy! It was a bit less simple t' keep it straight and unwrinkled.
Likewise, me hearties, ya bilge rat, finishin' t' after bulkhead was accomplished by cuttin' out t' sticker and placin' it. I recommend that when cuttin' t' hole for t' motor mount, leave a slight bit o' excess material. Well, blow me down! Then use a piece o' sandpaper wrapped around your finger t' ream it out flush with t' correct profile. Begad! I found t' t' sticker with t' backing paper is sturdy enough t' handle this and is sure easier than tryin' t' cut a circle. That brought t' buildin' t' a close. Begad!
Finishing:
Most o' t' finishin' took place durin' t' build phase and is detailed above. Well, blow me down! I did give t' rocket a coatin' of
Future®
Floor Polish t' toughen it up a bit. Avast! I don't want t' mar this up on landing. Arrr!
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I started out wimpy on an A8-3. Well, blow me down! T' chute was loaded after a bit o' dog barf, t' nose cone was seated and t' motor
installed. While I was hookin' up t' leads, arrr, me hearties, I enjoyed t' favorable comments from others about t' appearance o' the
rocket.
When it was time t' lift off, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, arrr, I pushed t' button and it took right off, me bucko, me bucko, matey, flyin' straight up. Avast! There be no barrel rollin' at all. Aye aye! It did nay fly particularly high but it be high enough t' make me feel "safe". Begad! Avast! Ejection occurred right on schedule and t' chute deployed just fine. Avast! It landed without any problem.
For t' second flight, I chose a B6-4. Begad! Again, me bucko, everythin' went like clockwork. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! T' rocket went up and t' rocket came down. Aye aye! In between, matey, shiver me timbers, at about t' right time, me bucko, t' chute came out and slowed t' decent. Begad! Blimey! That was good. Arrr! Unfortunately, RSO duties prevented another flight.
Brief: This is a single staged sport rocket with an unusual design. It is classified as a skill level 3. Construction: The components came in a hanging bag-style package with insert art. My particular model was production #45. It contained two sheets of balsa, a single body tube, balsa nose cone w/ eye screw, launch lug, a toothpick for the guns, engine mount hardware (tube, ...
Brief: The Stingray from Fliskits is yet another innovative design from one of the leaders in model rocketry today (my opinion). It is a challenging level 3 build but is well worth the effort. Construction: The kit contains: Body tube, 9" - BT-50-09 Body tube, 2.75" - BT-20-0275 Nose cone, Balsa - NCB-50AD Engine block, 18mm - EB-20-0025 Centering ring, ...
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J.F. (June 11, 2004)