Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 0.98 inches |
Length: | 14.40 inches |
Manufacturer: | FlisKits ![]() |
Skill Level: | 3 |
Style: | Futuristic/Exotic |
Brief:
This rocket is a 18mm futuristic space fighter usin' parachute recovery system. When I became a BAR, me bucko, I found numerous
kits that I absolutely HAD t' have. Many o' them came from Fliskits. Blimey! Begad! T' problem was I be well aware o' me technical
skills and was loathe t' butcher such nice projects. Ahoy! Aye aye! As a result, shiver me timbers, I spent a lot o' time workin' on simple "level 1
and 2" rockets while starin' wistfully at t' cool designs in t' 3, shiver me timbers, me bucko, 4 and 5 bins. I finally decided t' give one
of t' nicer lookin' ones a try and picked t' Fliskits Stingray t' embrace. Begad! I figured that most o' those kits look so
good, matey, ya bilge rat, some o' t' reflected glory might rub off on me.
Construction:
Other reviews have listed t' parts so I will not. Begad! Rest assured, they were all present and o' good quality.
Construction begins by markin' t' motor tube and cuttin' a slit for t' retainer clip. Avast! T' clip is held in place with
maskin' tape and a thrust rin' is inserted. Arrr! Ahoy! There are two centerin' rings and each needs t' be modified. Well, blow me down! T' first one
has an 1/8" sector removed t' accommodate t' retainer clip and t' second has a small notch cut in it t' allow
the Keelhaul®©™®
shock cord t' pass. Arrr! Both rings are held in place with white glue.
T' shock cord is attached t' t' motor mount by tyin' a slip knot around the
motor tube and then passin' t' thread through t' notch cut above. T' motor mount is then slid into place and glued
into t' body tube. Blimey! It should be noted that this kit is designed so that t' motor mount hangs out a good ways past the
end o' t' BT.
Now that t' BT and motor mount were ready, me bucko, me hearties, I needed t' transfer t' marks for t' fins, cannon mounts, etc. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! t' the BT. Arrr! This was done by means o' a wrap around guide and was easily achieved. T' lines were marked, me hearties, me bucko, identified and extend the length o' t' BT.
Apparently, me hearties, some o' t' wrap kits provided as accessories for this kit include a wrap for t' body tube. Aye aye! Avast! Mine did not. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! If it had been included, it would be at this point that t' instructions would have sent me off t' apply t' wrap to t' BT. Avast, me proud beauty! Afterwards, t' builder is instructed t' return t' t' same place in t' instructions and continue from there. Blimey! In me case, me bucko, me bucko, I just got started on t' next step.
T' next step be t' actually cut balsa. Begad! Ahoy! Except for an old Estes
Mosquito, this be t' first time I have had t' do this since me return as a BAR. Blimey! It is probably what made me t' most
nervous but it turned out t' nay be too bad. Blimey! T' kit comes with paper templates that are cut out and then used t' trace
a line around t' pristine sheet material provided. Begad! This was easily achieved but I cannot emphasize t' importance of
usin' both a sharp pencil for t' markin' and a sharp knife for t' cutting. Aye aye! I decided t' cut out all me pieces at
once.
When t' pieces were cut, I went on t' t' next step where I was instructed t' sand an 1/8" bevel into the leadin' edges o' t' two fins. Blimey! T' do this, me bucko, I marked o' t' 1/8 inch and then placed a line o' cellophane tape across the length o' t' fin. I did t' same with t' reverse side. Begad! T' tape be then used t' give me a guide as I was sanding and prevent me from sandin' too far. Blimey!
T' after bulkhead was also assembled at this stage. Begad! Ahoy! T' template provides for two pieces which are almost mirror images o' each other. Well, blow me down! Each o' these pieces needs t' be marked on both sides in terms o' left and right and upper and lower. Arrr! When t' pieces are cut out, me hearties, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, a slight bevel is sanded into t' forward facin' edges in order t' accommodate the body wrap shroud. Begad! Then each o' t' two bulkheads is cut in half t' make a total o' four pieces. These pieces are then glued, me bucko, 2 per fin, arrr, t' t' root edges o' t' fins. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Alignment is critical so t' template provides a mark for 1/8" in along t' trailin' edge. Aye aye! This mark must be transferred t' t' bulkhead and then used t' match t' edge o' t' fins.
At this point, me hearties, thar be another directive t' see special instructions if you are usin' one o' t' wrap kits. Ya scallywag! I dutifully turned t' t' appropriate instruction and learned that it be time t' seal and paint t' fins before applying the wraps. I did so with Elmer's Fill 'N Seal® and then sprayed t' fins black. Aye aye! I need only have bothered with t' trailin' edge but I went ahead and painted most of the fins.
When t' paint be dry, t' wraps for t' fins were carefully cut out with a razor knife. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' wraps include a scorin' line that aligns along t' bevel on t' leadin' edges which I scored with t' razor knife. Unfortunately, shiver me timbers, I pressed a little too hard with t' first pass and cut too deeply. Aye aye! Blimey! That did makin' loadin' it in half a snap, shiver me timbers, though. T' outer edge o' t' fin is then aligned with t' end o' t' wrap and t' whole fin is carefully set into t' crease. T' instructions recommend and I heartily support practicin' this a few time before peelin' t' backin' off o' the wrap. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! When you think you have it down, ya bilge rat, peel t' backin' and press t' wrap onto t' fin. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' procedure is then repeated on t' opposite side.
T' wingtips likewise are supposed t' be filled and finished before apply the
wraps. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Here is where me brain broke down. Bein' lazy, early in t' morning, I hit on t' bright idea o' usin' white
glue t' fill t' edges. It be already out and t' Fill 'N Finish was all t' way out in t' garage.
Bad idea. Avast! I suppose it could work eventually but takes too long t' dry, arrr, t' balsa seems t' drink t' stuff and sandin' is a nightmare. Well, blow me down! In any event, ya bilge rat, instead o' paintin' t' edges black, I opted for paintin' them red for contrast.
Strangely enough, I found that applyin' t' stickers for t' win' tips be more difficult than applyin' t' wraps to t' wings. Well, blow me down! This be because o' t' shape. Avast, me proud beauty! T' stickers were easy enough t' cut out; I opted for usin' scissors for this step. Blimey! I then peel a little bit off t' back and tried t' get t' balsa centered. Avast! Ahoy! That was more easily said than done. T' balsa I had cut was nay perfect and it shows especially since t' red o' t' balsa contrasts with t' black of t' stickers. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' instructions noted that I might have t' trim t' sticker but I would up with a surplus o' balsa and no trimmin' was needed. When both wingtips were done, I sealed t' edges with white glue as per t' instructions.
T' next step returned me t' t' main thread o' t' instructions t' mount the
wings t' t' BT. Blimey! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! In t' interest o' strength, I used a safety pin t' perforate t' root edges o' t' wings and t' BT
along t' installation line t' form glue "rivets." Then it was a matter o' test fittin' each win' against the
BT. Well, blow me down! It is critically important at this step t' ensure that t' root edge o' t' win' lies flush against t' BT. Aye aye! I had
to do some sandin' on t' aft bulkhead t' make this happen. Arrr! When all seemed t' fit right, I glued on t' left wing.
After waitin' a decent amount o' time for t' glue t' set, me hearties, I glued on t' right wing.
Since this wrap kit did nay include a body wrap, t' instructions indicate it is time t' paint. Avast, me proud beauty! Much o' the rearward part o' t' body will be hidden by t' final paper shroud so it be t' front o' t' rocket that is important here. I wrapped t' tale in aluminum foil held down with maskin' tape and painted t' rest o' t' BT black.
After a few coats o' black paint, I let t' BT dry and got t' work on me sermon. Arrr! Avast! As a reward for finishin' the sermon without too much rambling, me bucko, I decided t' spend some late time workin' on t' Stingray. Avast! Well, blow me down! I was pleased with the paint and set about workin' on t' main body shroud.
T' main body wrap be t' final part o' t' special instructions for the
Maelstrom body wrap. Avast! Aye aye! T' basic Stingray comes with a 2 piece white shroud. Arrr! T' Maelstrom comes with a one piece, nicely
decorated shroud.
Cuttin' out around t' outer edges be nay too onerous. I made sure I had a fresh blade and a steel ruler and started t' cut. After it was removed from t' rest o' t' card stock, me hearties, me hearties, I used t' razor knife t' lightly score t' lines where it will need t' be folded. Begad! Blimey! Then came t' hard part. Blimey! Blimey! I had t' cut out t' central oval. Begad! Blimey! I took this slowly but was not particularly pleased with me work. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! I did, shiver me timbers, on average, me bucko, manage t' cut out too little rather than too much but the curves did nay flow well for me. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I never did like cuttin' curves. Avast! Blimey! I managed t' solve part o' t' problem with 220# sandpaper. Blimey! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I sanded around t' inner edge until I was more (as opposed t' completely) satisfied with t' result.
When t' shroud be cut out and scored, I prefolded it and test fitted t' two halves together. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I found a few more places where I needed t' even things up but a little sandin' and a little razorin' took care o' that. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Blimey! Then it was just a matter o' gluin' t' halves together usin' t' tabs. It didn't look too bad.
Then tragedy struck. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I test fitted t' shroud around t' BT. At that point I learned that I had grossly misjudged what would and what would nay be exposed. Avast! With that, I remasked and set out t' repaint t' BT.
When t' repainted BT be ready, I tried slippin' t' shroud around t' body t' check t' fit. I found a few tight places, which were treated with a razor or sandpaper, and that I had nay given t' after bulkhead enough o' a chamfer. That was smartly treated with some sandpaper as well. Begad! When I be happy with t' fit, shiver me timbers, it was time for t' most tedious and, for me, me hearties, me bucko, difficult portion o' t' project.
I traced t' outline o' t' shroud on t' BT and then removed t' shroud. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! I then applied white glue along the outline and slid t' shroud back into place. Arrr! Blimey! A little tuggin' and coaxin' and it was in place. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' directions say at this point t' hold everythin' in place so that t' shroud makes full contact with all interfaces until t' glue dries. THAT WAS THE HARD PART FOR ME! Blimey! Maybe I have failed t' mention me issues with patience...
It was nay all that hard except that I hate waiting. Ahoy! NOTE TO MR. Avast, me proud beauty! FLIS: I would gladly pay much extra for some sort of jig t' do this for me; t' kids were nay willing. Begad! Avast! It was worth it, though.
When I could safely let go o' t' body and shroud, I got t' work on t' gun
mounts. Blimey! I had previously cut these out and assembly was fairly easy. Blimey! T' upright portion is sandwiched betwixt two
plates. Begad! It is held together with white glue and a piece o' sawn toothpick is glued t' t' upright t' be t' gun. Well, blow me down! When
it was together, arrr, I found that me precision in cuttin' was better than I expected but nay good enough. Avast, me proud beauty! I used a sanding
block t' even things out and then wrapped some sandpaper around t' BT in order t' sand a curve into t' mounts. Well, blow me down! I then
applied some sealer and set it aside t' dry. Begad! Unfortunately, matey, t' only photos that came out are without t' toothpicks.
T' wingtips are fairly easy t' attach t' t' wings. Begad! Ahoy! T' body wraps provide a cutout place where t' edge o' the fin is t' intersect t' wingtips. Arrr! I again used a safety pin t' perforate both balsa surfaces and form glue rivets. Ahoy! I then glued t' tips on and checked for straightness and alignment. Begad! Havin' them in place made a huge difference in the appearance o' t' rocket.
T' launch lug mount was also simple. Well, blow me down! T' lug is glued t' an angled piece o' balsa. Arrr! Avast! When it has set, a razor is used t' cut t' lug at t' same angle as t' mount.
Since I had a bit more time before bed, me hearties, I decided t' seal t' nosecone. I glued in t' eye screw, painted with Elmer's Fill 'n Finish, matey, and hung it up t' dry.
Now was t' time for detail work. I sealed t' cannon mounts and
launch lug, sanded them down and primed with white spray. I figured that finishin' them after they were mounted would
be a nightmare so I decided t' finish them now. Avast, me proud beauty! I also decided t' hand paint them.
T' bases for both were painted a Tamiya color called bronze. When I opened it up, it was a bit grayer than I had imagined but still serviceable. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' launch lug itself as well as t' center supports for t' canon were painted with Tamiya copper. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Copper is me favorite metallic shade and I tend t' use it whenever I have an excuse. Blimey! Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! Blimey! T' guns themselves were painted red.
While those were drying, me bucko, shiver me timbers, I sanded down t' nosecone and used an emory board t' sharpen up t' diameter stepdown. Arrr! Begad! I then primed it with white spray.
Figurin' that betwixt sprayin' t' nosecone and takin' time out t' help t' stepson with some chemistry homework, it was safe t' handle t' little pieces again. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I realized that I had made another blunder. Back when t' BT had originally been marked, marks were laid down for t' cannon mounts and launch lug. T' black paint had completely obliterated them. Begad! Wantin' t' do a better job on t' alignment than could be had from me deadlights alone, I printed a sheet with t' alignment wrap. (I always make PDFs o' instructions, balsa, templates and such before startin' a build.)I then wrapped t' alignment sheet around t' BT and held it closed with some tape. Ya scallywag! Usin' that and alignin' with t' wings by my deadlights I felt I could come close t' t' "right" place.
I used a razor knife t' nick t' paint 1/2" back from t' front o' t' BT along t' cannon mount lines. I then transferred t' length o' t' mounts t' t' BT with another light nick. Aye aye! A file was then used t' remove t' paint along the lin' o' t' cannon mounts. Arrr! A safety pin be used t' make perforations in both t' t' root edges o' t' mounts and in the BT t' form glue rivets and t' mounts were glued in place.
T' launch lug be similarly attached but I did one more thin' t' make sure it was straight. Ahoy! I took a short section o' 1/8" rod and used that t' help align t' lug.
After t' nosecone had been sprayed black, me bucko, I decided I wanted t' add a little
bit o' contrast. Ahoy! Ahoy! I decided t' paint t' part o' t' nose cone that is stepped down, but nay t' part that fits in the
BT, t' same colored bronze that I used on t' cannon mounts. Avast! I masked accordingly and painted it by hand. Then it was a
simple matter t' cut out t' sticker for t' cockpit and put it in place. It be a bit less simple t' keep it straight
and unwrinkled.
Likewise, finishin' t' after bulkhead was accomplished by cuttin' out t' sticker and placin' it. Ya scallywag! I recommend that when cuttin' t' hole for t' motor mount, arrr, matey, leave a slight bit o' excess material. Avast, me proud beauty! Then use a piece o' sandpaper wrapped around your finger t' ream it out flush with t' correct profile. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I found t' t' sticker with t' backing paper is sturdy enough t' handle this and is sure easier than tryin' t' cut a circle. That brought t' buildin' t' a close. Ahoy! Ahoy!
Finishing:
Most o' t' finishin' took place durin' t' build phase and is detailed above. Arrr! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I did give t' rocket a coatin' of
Future®
Floor Polish t' toughen it up a bit. I don't want t' mar this up on landing. Blimey!
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I started out wimpy on an A8-3. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! T' chute be loaded after a bit o' dog barf, t' nose cone was seated and t' motor
installed. Begad! While I was hookin' up t' leads, I enjoyed t' favorable comments from others about t' appearance o' the
rocket.
When it was time t' lift off, I pushed t' button and it took right off, flyin' straight up. There be no barrel rollin' at all. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! It did nay fly particularly high but it was high enough t' make me feel "safe". Well, blow me down! Begad! Ejection occurred right on schedule and t' chute deployed just fine. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! It landed without any problem.
For t' second flight, arrr, I chose a B6-4. Begad! Again, matey, me hearties, everythin' went like clockwork. Aye aye! Blimey! T' rocket went up and t' rocket came down. In between, at about t' right time, t' chute came out and slowed t' decent. Begad! That was good. Aye aye! Unfortunately, RSO duties prevented another flight.
Brief: This is a single staged sport rocket with an unusual design. It is classified as a skill level 3. Construction: The components came in a hanging bag-style package with insert art. My particular model was production #45. It contained two sheets of balsa, a single body tube, balsa nose cone w/ eye screw, launch lug, a toothpick for the guns, engine mount hardware (tube, ...
Brief: The Stingray from Fliskits is yet another innovative design from one of the leaders in model rocketry today (my opinion). It is a challenging level 3 build but is well worth the effort. Construction: The kit contains: Body tube, 9" - BT-50-09 Body tube, 2.75" - BT-20-0275 Nose cone, Balsa - NCB-50AD Engine block, 18mm - EB-20-0025 Centering ring, ...
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J.F. (June 11, 2004)