Brief:
This is a scale model o' t' Bomarc surface-to-air missile. Avast! It flies on MMX II motors and uses streamer recovery. Aye aye! Begad! If interested, you can learn more about t' Bomarc here.

Construction:
Parts List:

• - Body tube - 10.5mm tube, 6.25" long
• - Fins - 1/64" birch ply and foam picnic plate
• - Nose cone - three strips o' 1/8" balsa, 2.5" L x ¾" W, arrr, me hearties, and a short piece o' 3/16" dowel
• - Nose weight - section o' spent mini motor and lead shot
• - Motor tube - 1" section o' plastic pen
• - Centerin' rings - two ¼" pieces o' a spent mini motor
• - Motor block - small piece o' a spent MMX motor
• - Ramjets - LOC ¼" launch lug, arrr, ya bilge rat, 1 15/16" long (make 2)
• - Ramjet mounts - scrap balsa ~ 3/32" square x ¾" long (make 2)
• - Intake cones - 3/16" dowel (1/8" exposed) (make 2)
• - Electrical conduit (the bump runnin' along t' top o' t' body) - 3/16" W x 1/8" H balsa strip; 4 5/8" long (3/8" overlaps t' stabilizer fin)
• - Launch lug - section o' a BiC pen’s ink tube
• - Recovery - 100 lb Keelhaul®©™ twine and Teflon plumber’s tape streamer

I started with a single sheet plan provided by John McCoy (a.k.a. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Micromister on T' Rocketry Forum). Begad! Blimey! He provided a hardcopy, ya bilge rat, which was conveniently sized for 10.5mm tubing. Avast! An image o' this sheet is provided here (1.5M), but you will have t' size it t' t' right dimensions as you print it. Blimey! T' help in t' sizing, you can use t' component dimensions in t' parts list. Avast, me proud beauty! In addition, me bucko, ya bilge rat, here are t' major fin dimensions:

At John's suggestion, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I decided t' make t' fins from a laminate o' foam from a picnic plate and 1/64" Birch ply. I thought that if I made t' center foam piece smaller than t' Birch layers, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, that I could glue and clamp t' edges t' form a sleek structure. Begad! Ya scallywag! I made a copy o' t' plans and cut out t' fin and nosecone templates from that copy.

I started with t' bigger front fins. Ahoy! Aye aye! I cut two pieces o' Birch for each fin, me bucko, and made a foam ‘fin' that was about 1/8" smaller along each edge, except for t' root. Begad! Arrr! T' red crosshatched area in t' fin diagram (not t' scale) depicts this foam section. Ahoy! Arrr! I also cut about 1/8" off t' root edge o' t' lower birch plate (the blue line in t' drawing). Blimey! Ahoy! Havin' t' lower birch plate smaller helps t' fins conform t' t' body tube.

I covered t' components in white glue and clamped t' edges with six small clamps. I found that t' pressure required t' clamp all t' edges be almost too much for me small plastic clamps. Aye aye! Thus, me bucko, this fin took some babysittin' until t' glue dried. Avast! Arrr! On t' next fin, I inset t' edge o' t' foam section by about ¼". Arrr! This worked better and required no supervision while it set. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I repeated this process for t' stabilizer. Begad! When it came t' t' small aft fins, shiver me timbers, I worried that they were too small t' flex around a foam core and, with a ¼" inset from t' edges, thar would nay be much foam left. Two layers o' Birch did nay seem sturdy enough for aft fins, so I added a full sized piece o' foam. Blimey! I am very pleased with how t' air-foiled fins came out. Avast! They look great, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, are light, and are very strong. I wish I had tried t' make t' air foiled shape on t' aft fins.

To position these fins, shiver me timbers, I first marked a centerline on t' top and bottom o' t' tube, ya bilge rat, and a pair o' marks where t' fins would intersect t' body. Arrr! I then laid t' pair on t' drawing, me bucko, and taped a piece o' foam across them. Blimey! Begad! This ensured their relative position was correct. Aye aye! I flipped t' pair over, matey, arrr, ya bilge rat, applied some Pro-Bond wood glue, arrr, and laid t' tube onto them. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! After t' glue had partially set, me hearties, I lifted it up, arrr, ya bilge rat, checked t' alignment relative t' t' lines on t' tube, arrr, matey, and then turned it back over until t' glue had set. Well, blow me down! This process was repeated for t' aft fins. T' top stabilizer fin was added as on any 3/4FNC rocket.

I couldn't find a scrap piece o' balsa t' turn t' nose cone, so I cut three rectangles from some scrap 1/8" balsa. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I cut a section from t' middle piece t' accommodate a dowel, matey, and glued them together, with t' dowel installed. Arrr! Blimey! Once it be fully set, shiver me timbers, I trimmed t' corners and turned t' cone on a hand drill clamped in a vise. Begad! Blimey! I put a small section o' 10.5mm tubin' over t' dowel t' make sure t' sizin' was right as I went, and used a reverse template t' adjust t' shape. Blimey! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! T' resultin' cone looks good.

Since I have never acquired any 6mm tubing, ya bilge rat, matey, I scrounged in me small-parts junk bin around until I found a piece o' a plastic pen that fit t' MMX motor perfectly. Aye aye! I cut two small pieces from a spent 10.5mm motor casin' and trimmed t' inside until they fit t' plastic tube. Begad! I positioned t' aft rin' so that 1/8" o' t' motor tube hangs out t' back, me hearties, t' simulate t' nozzle on t' plan. Ya scallywag! I also notched t' front rin' so t' thin Keelhaul®©™® twine tied t' t' motor mount would pass through. I glued t' centerin' rings and t' Keelhaul®©™ twine t' t' tube usin' leftover epoxy from another job, along with a small chunk o' a MMX motor casin' t' serve as a motor block.

I made t' Ramjets from LOC ¼" launch lugs and turned t' intake cones from 3/16" dowel. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! They are a little less than ½" long with only t' front 1/8" exposed. I trimmed some scrap balsa t' make t' stand-offs and positioned t' usin' t' full sized plans and me eyeballs.

I found some 3/16" x 1/8" balsa stock and cut a 4 5/8" section for t' electrical conduit that runs along t' top o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! This be shaped by hand, ya bilge rat, and a notch be cut out t' let it slide over t' aft stabilizer. Begad! (I messed up and made it about 1/8 too short, me bucko, an error that wasn't noticed until is was glued on).

Micromister also provided t' CG for a stable Bomarc, me hearties, and I scaled that measurement for this model. It turned out that t' CG should be 4.25" from t' tip o' t' nose. Arrr! Blimey! Mine be way off - hmmm, me hearties, how t' add weight t' this small balsa cone? I decided t' add a section o' motor casin' t' t' nose cone's shoulder and epoxy in some lead shot. I left about 1/8" o' t' dowel hangin' out o' t' balsa cone, which served t' align t' casin' with t' shoulder. Avast! Blimey! I cut a ½" piece o' casing, me hearties, matey, trimmed t' outer paper, me hearties, added some lead shot, me bucko, and capped t' end with tape. T' CG was now about right, and I took t' model t' t' post office t' weight it. Avast! Blimey! It came in at 0.50oz (14.17g), me bucko, which should make for a low flight. Begad! Blimey! I then set t' lead shot and t' twine in some epoxy, me bucko, and attached t' nose weight assembly onto t' cone.

I approximated t' scale color scheme presented on t' plans. Avast! I started with white primer, and then masked and hand-painted t' black, silver, and brown areas. T' stripes on t' front were made with thin strips o' white label material (adhesive paper). Blimey! I haven't come up with any decals.

Flight:
I used a 12" piece o' Teflon plumber's tape as a streamer and a small ball o' tape as wadding. Ya scallywag! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! GSE included t' guts o' a stock igniter, ya bilge rat, me hearties, me Pratt GO-Box, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and t' rod from t' MicroMaxx starter kit. Well, blow me down! T' microBomarc flew off sideways, attainin' an altitude o' about 5 feet before impactin' t' side o' me SUV.

Summary:
On t' plus side, arrr, me bucko, this is a nice lookin' semi-scale model o' t' Bomarc. Arrr! T' composite fins turned out very nicely and I will consider this technique for other models.

On t' minus side, it is too heavy, but t' motor mount and ramjets could both lightened. Blimey! I want t' avoid addin' more nose weight if I can. Ahoy! Since t' trajectory be straight, arrr, if nay in an upwardly direction, I will try it again with a longer, stiffer rod.