Estes SpaceShipOne E

Estes - Maxi SpaceShipOne {Kit} (2196) [2005-?]

Contributed by Cliff Sojourner

Construction Rating: starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Overall Rating: starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Manufacturer: Estes
Estes Space Ship One 'E' 1:15 scale

Brief:
This is a large scale model o' Burt Rutan's Space Ship One, t' X-Prize winner. We enjoyed watchin' t' X-Prize develop, ya bilge rat, we have built t' other X-Prize kits from Estes, me bucko, so when t' super sized SSO became available, we jumped on it. Arrr! Arrr! Blimey! As you can imagine we were full o' anticipation and high expectations for this kit.

Construction:
T' components included in t' kit are:

  • fuselage left and right halves
  • left and right tail booms
  • winglets for tail booms
  • plastic tail cone
  • launch lug piece
  • motor mount tubes, E engine hook, shiver me timbers, motor block, matey, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, etc.
  • nose cone and base
  • 4 pats o' clay weight for t' nose
  • 36" rubber shock cord
  • red fabric parachute (called 18" but actually measures 16")
  • two decal sheets for right and left halves

T' instructions are easy enough t' follow. Ya scallywag! T' illustrations clearly indicate which parts are keyed and t' orientation required for assembly. The Styrofoam parts were precisely molded and we did nay have any trouble fitting them together properly.

Usin' silicone glue is novel for rocketry but seems t' hold t' Styrofoam pieces together well. Begad! T' trouble with silicone is it's so sticky it just gets everywhere and is difficult t' wipe up drips because they smear everywhere. Consequently, me bucko, makin' nice beads and fillets takes a lot o' practice and fooling around without makin' a mess. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! So go ahead, me bucko, make a little mess, matey, let it dry, and it will mostly rub off.

What seems t' work best is t' work carefully t' make a consistent bead on one o' t' sides t' be joined. T' consistency is important because when you assemble and compress t' parts together, t' bead will squeeze t' same way across t' entire joint.

Probably best t' get "paintable" silicone. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' non-paintable stuff might be OK if you didn't want t' paint t' Space Ship One. Either way, white silicone matches t' Styrofoam nicely.

All silicones take a long time t' set up, me bucko, so while each step is easy t' do there is a long gap in betwixt steps. Arrr! Ahoy! Betwixt that and painting, plan for several days elapsed time t' complete t' model.

Other glues work well with Styrofoam and are certainly more workable than silicone. Ahoy! Most hobby and craft stores sell special Styrofoam glues, shiver me timbers, water solvent contact cement, and good old white glue should work too.

T' instructions warn about alignment when gluin' t' winglets on t' tail booms. Begad! But t' alignment isn't an issue because t' parts fit nicely together.

Finishing:
T' Styrofoam does nay have a nice finish. T' Styrofoam is easily damaged, dented, ya bilge rat, mottled, and broken. No matter how mild t' adhesive on t' masking tape you use t' clamp t' main body for gluing, t' Styrofoam will be damaged when you remove t' tape. Aye aye! Blimey! T' instructions call for "blue masking tape" which is pretty mild stuff. Ahoy! Blimey! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Blimey! Neither t' green maskin' tape nor lavender maskin' tape would stick t' t' Styrofoam.

T' instructions do nay say t' paint t' completed model, only t' nose cone, arrr, me hearties, but frankly after t' tape damage, shiver me timbers, arrr, discoloration from extra silicone, and other incidental damage t' t' Styrofoam, shiver me timbers, me bucko, it needs some kind o' paint job.

T' kit included stickers, nay decals. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' adhesive on t' stickers grabs the Styrofoam and does nay like t' be removed and realigned. Aye aye! T' top layer of cells o' Styrofoam stick t' t' sticker and rips right off, which ruins the sticker's looks, matey, me bucko, arrr, t' Styrofoam, and then t' sticker won't stick any more.

Put a dot o' dishwashin' liquid in a bowl o' warm water, matey, arrr, run t' stickers through that solution. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Then while t' sticker is wet you can reposition the sticker and get t' air bubbles out. T' Styrofoam doesn't soak up water so the sticker will slide around for quite a while.

Most o' t' stickers were cut correctly t' fit t' model. T' sticker with the stars on t' nose cone do nay fit t' model.

T' instructions say t' paint red on t' leadin' edges o' all foil surfaces and a red stripe somewhere on t' nose cone for t' landin' skid. T' (paper) mask provided for t' skid stripe does nay fit t' nose cone and won't work for maskin' paint anyway. Begad! Blimey! We left t' stripe off ours. Blimey! Blimey! We are nay gettin' many scale contest points here!

For all t' effort with t' stickers, Estes should have included red stripe stickers instead o' requirin' a very difficult maskin' and paintin' job.

Nay many paints are available that are considered "safe" for Styrofoam. Aye aye! Blimey! Experienced Styrofoam modelers say they do nay trust any spray paint brands because t' propellant is volatile enough t' eat t' Styrofoam. Begad! We used Testors white because t' guys at t' hobby shop were interested in tryin' it on some packin' foam pieces. T' Testors primer and paint didn't eat t' foam. Unfortunately it doesn't cover it color-wise either. Avast! So what, matey, it looks great on the pad 30' away, doesn't it?

Construction Rating: 1 out o' 5

Flight:
First flight was in beautiful calm conditions and mild temperatures. Avast! T' rocket flew straight up, did a half roll, arced over just a little, coasted, and ejected almost exactly at t' right time. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' parachute tangled on t' port boom and t' nose cone led t' way back down t' earth, shiver me timbers, with t' rocket in a flat spin. This landin' broke t' boom and that was it for t' weekend. Arrr!

We repaired t' boom by insertin' a long 1/8" dowel (actually a BBQ skewer) into both sections o' t' boom then more silicone t' hold it together.

I guessed t' winglets would eventually break, arrr, ya bilge rat, which is why I didn't want to try t' mask and paint them. Blimey! Blimey! T' port winglet broke off, matey, right along the boom, just from travelin' home in t' car. This was fixed with a couple strips of "packin' tape" which is actually tough mylar and an excellent adhesive.

It turns out from t' first flight t' parachute was slightly singed, ya bilge rat, and when I tugged slightly on t' fabric it just ripped. Arrr! Arrr! T' fabric is very poor quality. Blimey! In fact, once t' rip started at t' singe, it continued all t' way across t' parachute. Ahoy! Arrr! I found I could rip t' unburned fabric by hand. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Real rip stop nylon doesn't do that. Ahoy! Aye aye! It's difficult t' imagine how t' fabric got burned because thar was unburned waddin' in t' motor mount tube, me hearties, over t' motor and under t' parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! What I originally thought was a decent quality part in the kit, me hearties, turned out on closer inspection t' be junk. Fortunately we had a 1/4 yard scrap o' rip stop nylon so with 10 minutes cuttin' and sewin' we had a new 18" parachute.

Recovery:
A model like this is caught in a tough situation because it's just too big for an E9 in any kind o' wind, but it's too delicate for anythin' else. Well, blow me down! Someone told us they shredded theirs on an F12 which is actually a pretty gentle motor, barely an F by 3 newton-seconds.

Second launch be in 5-7mph winds. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' booms and t' stabilizer surfaces visibly fluttered this time, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' model weathercocked badly and got no altitude, which made t' 4 second delay o' t' E9 too low an altitude (about 50') for a safe recovery. Ahoy! However, matey, t' horizontal flight meant t' model was movin' fast at t' time o' ejection and parachute deployment. Ahoy! T' nice long shock cord provided with t' kit did its job and t' model landed with no damage.

T' get through t' (mild) winds, me hearties, shiver me timbers, it sure would have been nice t' have the extra oomph o' t' F12. Begad! But after seein' t' booms and stabilizers flutter like that, me hearties, this model isn't flyin' any more at all.

Flight Rating: 2 out o' 5

Summary:
There is nothin' nice t' say about this kit except stay away from it. Ahoy! Avast! It is definitely nay worth t' list price ($65). Well, blow me down! Maybe if you found one for auction for $5 and didn't care about looks and flew in zero wind and got lucky with perfect flight profile and parachute deployment and landed in tall grass, matey, and didn't break a boom or stabilizer from landin' or transportation t' and from the field... Even then, $5 is a lot. I'd rather have any o' several $3 Styrofoam airplanes.

Overall Rating: 1 out o' 5

Flights

Comments:

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B.K.B. (December 17, 2005)
This review is very accurate. BUYER BEWARE!! I was lucky enough to be only taken for $50.00. As the reviewer states this model is cheap and flimsy. I agree even $5.00 is too much. This kit doesn't even make an attractive static model. I have yet to fly my model, but I am very reluctant to do so based on the finished product. As a loyal Estes modeler of many years I find I am quickly losing faith in their products. Cheap materials, poor engineering and HIGH cost will eventually spell the end of our once beloved Estes.
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K.J. (January 3, 2006)
I was able to see two examples of this model as part of a model rocket display at the National Air and Space Museum's welcome weekend for the real SS1. The model is molded foam and is comparable to any of the current park-flyer RC planes on the market in construction. the price is about the same for what I paid for small foam electric plane kit (Hyperfly's BaE Hawk). The models were handled all day long by lots of people (adults and kids) and were picked up by the wings several times. Neither one was damaged in any way. One of the SS1 program managers thought the model was very accurate (pointed out small differences from the initial craft and what was modeled by Estes). It's not your typical model kit, so judging it by those standards doesn't apply.

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