Construction and Finishing:
T' package was shipped with no damage. Blimey! Blimey! Packagin' was excellent. Begad! Blimey! T' instructions were clear throughout and were injected with a lot o' humor. Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! This was a good thin' for me because it fits right in with me sense o' humor and added to my enjoyment o' t' kit. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Your mileage may vary.

T' instructions start out with a complete parts list includin' t' fin alignment guides and canard patterns, which are printed on t' back page o' t' instructions. Aye aye! Step 1 o' t' "Assembly Destructions" was t' check everythin' against t' checklist. Begad! Everythin' was present so on with t' build.

T' first assembly step is t' use filler t' fill t' seams on t' body tubes. Avast! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! This may nay be your first step with other kits, arrr, but I highly recommend followin' t' destructions and doin' it first. Unlike your standard fin rockets where you can easily get t' t' body tube t' fill seams after t' fins are on, me bucko, this won't work with t' Kraken's tube fins. Unless you don't fill seams at all, fill them first.

I had absolutely no problems followin' t' destructions for markin' up and cuttin' out the tube fins. Arrr! T' text explains t' process quite well and t' pictures just make it that much clearer. Begad! Over half o' the destructions are devoted t' markin' and cuttin' t' tube fins. Begad! Even if you can't read, me hearties, t' pictures would be enough to get t' fins cut out correctly. A new hobby blade be recommended and used. Begad! Begad! This is somethin' that can easily be overlooked, shiver me timbers, but shouldn't be.

Step 12 is actually a suggestion on how t' finish t' model. There are several suggested methods. Begad! I followed the destructions pretty close. Ya scallywag! One additional step I used, matey, which I use with almost all o' me tubes, is t' use CA along the end o' t' tube. Aye aye! This soaks in t' end grain o' t' tube and strengthens it. I used CA along all t' edges o' t' fin tubes and launch lugs. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' destructions say t' put ¼" tape on t' fin tubes and t' fin and launch lug lines on t' body tube where they will be glued together. Ya scallywag! I highly recommend this also. Begad! I put t' tape in place, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and then I finished t' fillin' and sandin' o' t' fins and body tubes. Avast! Ahoy! I then primed all t' parts, sanded, re-primed, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and sanded again until everythin' be ready for final paint. Don't forget t' fill and finish t' inside o' t' tube fins.

T' launch lugs were a place where I varied from t' instructions some. Ya scallywag! T' kit comes with two one inch long launch lugs. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' pictures in t' destructions seem t' show two one half inch long launch lugs. Aye aye! I took each one inch lug and cut t' top one half inch with t' same pattern used on t' tube fins.

I really liked t' black and red paint on t' illustration o' t' model and used t' same pattern. Ahoy! I painted t' inside o' t' tube fins and launch lugs red. If you are goin' t' do this, I highly recommend makin' sure you have a heavy layer o' paint in t' upper parts o' t' fin. I used rolled up paper t' mask t' inside painted parts o' t' tube fins when I painted t' remainin' parts o' t' rocket. There was still a little overspray that got onto t' red parts. Avast, me proud beauty! With a thick layer, ya bilge rat, you can sand t' over spray off and then clear coat t' whole thin' to get t' gloss back. Arrr! If you don't have a heavy enough coatin' t' be able t' sand off t' overspray, you'll have t' mask the inside o' t' fins when you paint t' rocket or mask t' rocket and repaint t' inside o' t' fins later. Both methods will work, but I just don't like havin' t' use maskin' tape if I don't have to.

T' nose cone is another place where I varied from t' instructions somewhat. Aye aye! Blimey! T' instructions call for sanding and fillin' t' nose cone before gluin' on t' canards. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' recommended method o' fillin' with CA, shiver me timbers, gluin' t' canards on with CA, me bucko, and then filletin' with wood glue will probably work great. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I just have a thin' about usin' wood glue to glue wood together. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I sanded t' nose cone and canards, me hearties, shiver me timbers, matey, glued canard t' t' nose cone with wood glue, filleted them with more wood glue and then filled and finished t' balsa. Aye aye! Blimey! T' destructions say t' glue t' ballast washer t' t' base of t' nose cone. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I went a little further and scored one side o' t' washer with a file t' give t' epoxy I used a little better grip when I glued it t' t' base o' t' nose cone.

T' motor mount assembly went exactly accordin' t' t' destructions. Ya scallywag! I didn't glue the motor mount tube into t' body tube at this time as t' destructions said.

I painted t' rocket first. Ya scallywag! I used a piece o' rolled up paper t' help hold and move t' rocket durin' painting.

I also painted t' lower part o' t' motor tube t' same red as t' inside o' t' tube fins. Once t' paint was done, I installed t' motor mount.

Post flight note: T' destructions say t' motor mount should be recessed 1/8 inch into t' body tube, me bucko, for aesthetics I assume. I mounted mine flush with t' end o' t' BT. Considerin' t' motor retention method used, shiver me timbers, I wish I had extended t' tube about ¼ inch beyond t' BT.

I assume t' parachute is a purchased item that is included with t' kit. Ahoy! T' assembly instructions don't have any o' t' "funny" comments like t' rest o' t' instructions. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! I varied from the instructions some what on t' assembly o' t' parachute. It said t' cut t' shroud line into six equal parts, attach each t' t' parasheet and then tie t' six together. Avast! Ya scallywag! I cut t' shroud line into three equal lengths and attached three loops t' t' parasheet. I then pulled t' three together and looped them through a snap swivel.

T' final assembly before t' flight instructions was t' tape a strip o' maskin' tape around t' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord where it leaves t' body tube t' prevent zippers.

This be a fun build that was nay overly difficult. Begad! Ahoy! T' instructions were very good and t' construction was straightforward. Begad! T' only knock be t' motor mount. Avast! Recessin' it 1/8th inch may look better, but extendin' it ¼ inch would make it much easier t' use t' tape t' retain t' motors. Arrr! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! As with any finishing, so much depends on the modeler and t' modeler's methods and standards. Well, blow me down! Because o' this, I find it difficult t' rate t' finishin' on a kit. There were a lot o' very good suggestions and instructions in how t' construct t' Kraken but nay a lot o' help on gettin' a "great" finish. That lack o' finishin' help be t' only reason I didn't make it 5 o' 5.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight and Recovery:
First o' all, matey, me bucko, if this is your first rocket that doesn't have a motor retainin' hook, me bucko, don't worry. Well, blow me down! T' destructions are very clear on how t' install a 24mm Single Use motor. They also cover how t' prep t' remainin' items for flight (e.g., waddin' and parachute). Ahoy! Avast! As t' destructions then say, arrr, me hearties, "Go forth and go WHOOSH."

Flight 1 3/15/08 Battle Park Va. Blimey! 3-8 mph winds, arrr, blue skies, arrr, and upper 50º. Avast! T' first rocket t' fly this day was t' Kraken. Avast! T' motor be a recommended C11-3. T' boost be nice and straight t' about 500ft. T' deployment was right at apogee. T' chute deployed great and had a perfect recovery. Begad! I be a little leery o' t' chute with t' shroud lines t' same length as t' diameter o' t' parasheet. This is typical but I believe it causes a lot more twisted chutes then would happen if shrouds were 1½ t' 2 time t' parasheet diameter. Arrr! I be pleasantly surprised, the decent was great with no twistin' or spinnin' on t' way down.

Flight 2 3/15/08 Battle Park Va. 10-12 mph winds. Begad! A quick turn around made this t' third flight o' t' day. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' motor be another recommended motor, a D12-5. This had a very straight boost t' 800–900 feet. T' deployment was exactly at apogee, ya bilge rat, me hearties, me hearties, a perfect deployment. Avast! T' wind was up a little and t' decent was again very good which meant a long walk.

Flight 3 3/15/08 Battle Park Va. Well, blow me down! 3 - 8 mph winds. Well, blow me down! I didn't have any o' t' recommended composite reloads, me bucko, D15 or E15, so I went a little bigger. Avast! Arrr! This motor be an E28-7T. Ahoy! This be probably too much motor for this tube fin rocket. It made 3 tight corkscrews as it flew under boost. Avast! Avast! It straightened out immediately after motor burnout. Begad! T' altitude was 1200–1500 ft. T' deployment be near apogee and was perfect. Begad! Begad! There was a long wait for it t' come down but with the light winds, it landed less than 300 ft from t' pad.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
T' destructions say t' Kraken will "fly beautifully on C11-3 and D12-5 Black Powder motors" and they are exactly correct. Ya scallywag! Arrr! They also recommended t' D15 and E15 composite motors. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I'm sure these will fly just as well. Well, me hearties, blow me down! If you don't mind t' tight corkscrews or consider it too much risk o' losin' a tube fin or two, ya bilge rat, t' Kraken really grabs some sky on t' E28. Blimey! I'm sure it will also survive and fly great on an F24. Ya scallywag! You're on your own with t' F39. Ya scallywag! All in all, this is a great kit. Blimey! It looks great, flies great, arrr, and generates a lot o' interest from fellow rocketeers.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5