Well, ya bilge rat, I just finished one o' me more rewardin' projects, me hearties, matey, that bein' a flyin' V-1 Buzz Bomb. Avast! A friend o' mine is into vacu-formin' styrene, and made up t' body and pulse jet intake on a wood lathe, me bucko, and molded me some pieces, me bucko, me bucko, on t' condition I would try t' see if I could make it fly. Dry weight be goin' t' be around 11oz.

I used a 24mm motor tube (aerotech) and installed a thrust ring, and motor hook held in with fiberglass tape and CA. Begad! I decided on makin' t' wings and tail and pulse jet supports out o' 1/8" basswood, for it's strength nay much less than plywood, and a weight nay much more than balsa. Aye aye! I glued t' wings and tail surfaces and filleted t' t' 24mm core tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Since this was a home built mold, thar were some imperfections in t' moldin' t' be worked around, ya bilge rat, and it took a while t' trim them so t' two halves o' t' body and pulse jet were flush. 

I fitted t' two halves o' t' pulse jet intake, and made a centerin' rin' out o' styrene t' center t' Estes BT-60 for t' outlet pipe. Ya scallywag! It runs t' full length o' t' pulsejet, and is slotted t' allow t' supports t' run through t' wall and glue on t' inside opposite wall o' t' pulsejet. Blimey! T' pulsejet is hollow, and these supports act as fins inside t' tube, as well as make it strong. I glued a coupler in t' aft end o' t' BT-60 t' strengthen it.

I fitted t' styrene body halves, shiver me timbers, arrr, and glued tabs inside t' locate t' halves together, ya bilge rat, and slotted them for t' wings, tail, and forward pulsejet support. I tied a piece o' 90# dacron fishin' line around t' 24mm tube, just forward o' t' forward pulse jet intake for shock line attachment. Avast! Aye aye! At this point t' back half hangs slightly tail down for a flat landin' t' minimize win' and tail damage.

I used a styrene forward centerin' rin' since it wasn't takin' any real structural strain. I reinforced t' forward end o' t' styrene with another strip o' styrene 3/4" wide glued inside after cuttin' off t' cone section 1" forward o' t' leadin' edge o' t' wings. Blimey! Begad! I reinforced t' lip o' t' cone, and glued another 1.5" strip inside t' cone t' make a shoulder. 

I ran VCP on t' model usin' t' wings as fin set 1, and t' tail elevators as fin set 2, me hearties, and neglectin' t' pulse jet, since it would move t' CP back anyway, me hearties, and be unsymmetric. Arrr! VCP showed a CP o' midpoint o' t' wings, which is what I would expect for an airplane (from me RC experience). Avast! Arrr! I set t' CG around 1" forward o' t' wings RTF givin' me more than 1 caliber, and which corresponds with other peoples experience with gettin' winged vehicles t' fly upward with stability. Begad! Ahoy! Finished empty weight came out as 9 oz., with 8oz o' lead shot and epoxy needed in t' nose for balance. Ahoy! Blimey! This is a lot, but fits in with me original plan t' use 24mm E-15, 18's, and F-24, 39's. Avast, me proud beauty! Final weight with motor and chutes was 19oz. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Length is 23" for t' body, 27" for total, arrr, arrr, shiver me timbers, 17" wingspan, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, 3.5" chord, 7" tail span. Avast! I used t' Fi103A1 format which had shorter wings than t' later versions, and moved them back 1/2". Blimey! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' tail cone exit diameter should really be BT-55. Body diameter is 3" at t' widest part.

I decided t' cut off t' back end o' t' body and have t' motor tube stick out the  back, ya bilge rat, so I wouldn't have t' fight asymmetric thrust as well as drag, and It is hard t' tell t' difference when you look at t' model.

I rigged t' nose and body t' come down separately, with a 22" nylon for t' bottom, and a 20" xform for t' nose. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' chutes fit in t' hollow nose. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! T' 1/8" plywood forward bulkhead in t' nose is just behind t' nose weight. Arrr! Arrr! Blimey! This allows plenty o' room for t' two chutes, and 3/8" elastic. Aye aye! Blimey! I rigged t' bottom chute forward, arrr, with t' nose chute behind, so they would both get pulled out. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! I used a 9/32" id brass tube as a launch lug, matey, shiver me timbers, on t' bottom just behind t' nose cone joint, shiver me timbers, since it was t' only place on t' body that be parallel t' t' flyin' surfaces.

Flight was on a foggy calm day with ceilin' around 600'. Begad! Boost be vertical for t' first 150' or so, then archin' toward t' pulse jet around 15-20 degrees for t' rest o' t' boost. Blimey! Aye aye! I cut down t' delay from t' E-18-7(8) 1/4" which gave me a 4 second delay (boy these delays are out o' whack) This be from experience. Arrr! It arched over, matey, and ejected perfectly.

On recovery I saw some damage t' t' body plastic which had been torn. Arrr! I thought it be t' recovery line attach point through t' plastic which had done it, but on inspection I noticed that t' forward centerin' rin' was torn in half, and part was missing. Aye aye! I discovered t' problem. Arrr! Since I didn't think t' forward rin' would take any structural force, I didn't put a fillet behind t' ring, and relied on t' lip reinforcement t' hold it from goin' forward.

T' ejection charge was so forceful (the cap supplied with t' reload kit) that t' heavy nose resisted ejection, ya bilge rat, arrr, and t' centerin' be blown backwards inside t' body shell. Avast! Once that happened t' body blow out a side portion behind t' wing. Aye aye! We taped t' body back with maskin' tape, and flew again on an F-39. This accelerates faster, matey, and due t' t' larger drag at higher speed, arced a little more than t' E-18. Avast, me proud beauty! T' V-1 had a half roll on t' way up, matey, arrr, t' horizontal flight at t' top, and a slow half roll arcin' over t' ejection. Ahoy! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Recovery was fine this time with no more damage.

I got out t' heat cannon at home, and removed t' remains for o' centerin' ring, which was held in place with 5 min. Blimey! epoxy around t' motor tube, ya bilge rat, replaced it with 1/8" plywood, and fixed t' hairline cracks with liquid styrene cement. Begad! It is now RTF and good as new.

This was a really fun, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and rewardin' project. T' rocket performed better than I thought, due t' t' asymmetric drag. Arrr! This be t' second time I have used styrene, and it is a nice way t' make complicated shapes, matey, and is easy t' work with. Blimey! T' first time be t' Estes Space Shuttle, which flew really well, but t' thin styrene be tricky t' get together. It really looked awesome goin' over t' top like an airplane. Arrr! Aye aye! Only thin' missin' be t' buzzing. Aye aye! A larger version with a Hypertek hybrid would sound about right:) A little bit larger, ya bilge rat, and I think an RC version could be worked out with micro servos. I'm surprised I haven't seen a ducted fan RC Buzz Bomb, since it be t' perfect model with t' engine in a separate pod, easy t' get at, has a rather large wing, and t' buzzin' would sound great. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Takin' off from a carriage, shiver me timbers, arrr, and landin' on t' belly, or with rudimentary wheels.

Now I can paint t' model, shiver me timbers, and I have some still pictures, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and an attempt at gettin' liftoff, and as soon as I get them developed, me bucko, me hearties, I'll put them on me web page.

My friend has already done a D powered Natter, now with our 7.6", 5.5", 4", me hearties, me bucko, 2.6", and 2" V-2's, and t' V-1, we are gettin' a little one sided on t' German side, so we are goin' t' try a 4" X-15 usin' Vacu-formin' for t' body shells, and win' skins.

Hope this be interesting.