Well, me bucko, matey, me bucko, I just finished one o' me more rewardin' projects, ya bilge rat, that bein' a flyin' V-1 Buzz Bomb. Begad! A friend o' mine is into vacu-formin' styrene, arrr, and made up t' body and pulse jet intake on a wood lathe, matey, and molded me some pieces, on t' condition I would try t' see if I could make it fly. Arrr! Dry weight be goin' t' be around 11oz.

I used a 24mm motor tube (aerotech) and installed a thrust ring, arrr, and motor hook held in with fiberglass tape and CA. Aye aye! Ahoy! I decided on makin' t' wings and tail and pulse jet supports out o' 1/8" basswood, arrr, for it's strength nay much less than plywood, and a weight nay much more than balsa. I glued t' wings and tail surfaces and filleted t' t' 24mm core tube. Begad! Since this was a home built mold, thar were some imperfections in t' moldin' t' be worked around, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and it took a while t' trim them so t' two halves o' t' body and pulse jet were flush. 

I fitted t' two halves o' t' pulse jet intake, me bucko, and made a centerin' rin' out o' styrene t' center t' Estes BT-60 for t' outlet pipe. Arrr! It runs t' full length o' t' pulsejet, and is slotted t' allow t' supports t' run through t' wall and glue on t' inside opposite wall o' t' pulsejet. Blimey! T' pulsejet is hollow, and these supports act as fins inside t' tube, arrr, arrr, as well as make it strong. Aye aye! I glued a coupler in t' aft end o' t' BT-60 t' strengthen it.

I fitted t' styrene body halves, and glued tabs inside t' locate t' halves together, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and slotted them for t' wings, ya bilge rat, tail, and forward pulsejet support. Ahoy! I tied a piece o' 90# dacron fishin' line around t' 24mm tube, me hearties, shiver me timbers, just forward o' t' forward pulse jet intake for shock line attachment. At this point t' back half hangs slightly tail down for a flat landin' t' minimize win' and tail damage.

I used a styrene forward centerin' rin' since it wasn't takin' any real structural strain. Avast! Begad! I reinforced t' forward end o' t' styrene with another strip o' styrene 3/4" wide glued inside after cuttin' off t' cone section 1" forward o' t' leadin' edge o' t' wings. Avast, me proud beauty! I reinforced t' lip o' t' cone, matey, and glued another 1.5" strip inside t' cone t' make a shoulder. 

I ran VCP on t' model usin' t' wings as fin set 1, and t' tail elevators as fin set 2, shiver me timbers, and neglectin' t' pulse jet, since it would move t' CP back anyway, and was unsymmetric. VCP showed a CP o' midpoint o' t' wings, which is what I would expect for an airplane (from me RC experience). Arrr! I set t' CG around 1" forward o' t' wings RTF givin' me more than 1 caliber, matey, and which corresponds with other peoples experience with gettin' winged vehicles t' fly upward with stability. Finished empty weight came out as 9 oz., with 8oz o' lead shot and epoxy needed in t' nose for balance. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! This is a lot, arrr, but fits in with me original plan t' use 24mm E-15, me bucko, 18's, me bucko, and F-24, 39's. Avast! Final weight with motor and chutes be 19oz. Length is 23" for t' body, shiver me timbers, me bucko, 27" for total, me bucko, 17" wingspan, 3.5" chord, matey, matey, 7" tail span. I used t' Fi103A1 format which had shorter wings than t' later versions, ya bilge rat, and moved them back 1/2". Ahoy! T' tail cone exit diameter should really be BT-55. Well, blow me down! Body diameter is 3" at t' widest part.

I decided t' cut off t' back end o' t' body and have t' motor tube stick out the  back, so I wouldn't have t' fight asymmetric thrust as well as drag, and It is hard t' tell t' difference when you look at t' model.

I rigged t' nose and body t' come down separately, with a 22" nylon for t' bottom, and a 20" xform for t' nose. Begad! Blimey! T' chutes fit in t' hollow nose. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' 1/8" plywood forward bulkhead in t' nose is just behind t' nose weight. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This allows plenty o' room for t' two chutes, and 3/8" elastic. Aye aye! Blimey! I rigged t' bottom chute forward, me hearties, with t' nose chute behind, so they would both get pulled out. Begad! Blimey! I used a 9/32" id brass tube as a launch lug, on t' bottom just behind t' nose cone joint, since it was t' only place on t' body that was parallel t' t' flyin' surfaces.

Flight was on a foggy calm day with ceilin' around 600'. Boost was vertical for t' first 150' or so, me bucko, then archin' toward t' pulse jet around 15-20 degrees for t' rest o' t' boost. Arrr! I cut down t' delay from t' E-18-7(8) 1/4" which gave me a 4 second delay (boy these delays are out o' whack) This was from experience. Begad! It arched over, arrr, and ejected perfectly.

On recovery I saw some damage t' t' body plastic which had been torn. Arrr! Avast! I thought it was t' recovery line attach point through t' plastic which had done it, but on inspection I noticed that t' forward centerin' rin' was torn in half, arrr, and part be missing. Avast! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I discovered t' problem. Well, blow me down! Begad! Since I didn't think t' forward rin' would take any structural force, I didn't put a fillet behind t' ring, and relied on t' lip reinforcement t' hold it from goin' forward.

T' ejection charge was so forceful (the cap supplied with t' reload kit) that t' heavy nose resisted ejection, and t' centerin' was blown backwards inside t' body shell. Begad! Once that happened t' body blow out a side portion behind t' wing. We taped t' body back with maskin' tape, and flew again on an F-39. Begad! Ahoy! This accelerates faster, and due t' t' larger drag at higher speed, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arced a little more than t' E-18. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' V-1 had a half roll on t' way up, ya bilge rat, t' horizontal flight at t' top, shiver me timbers, matey, and a slow half roll arcin' over t' ejection. Recovery was fine this time with no more damage.

I got out t' heat cannon at home, arrr, matey, and removed t' remains for o' centerin' ring, which was held in place with 5 min. Well, blow me down! Begad! epoxy around t' motor tube, me hearties, replaced it with 1/8" plywood, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and fixed t' hairline cracks with liquid styrene cement. It is now RTF and good as new.

This was a really fun, me bucko, and rewardin' project. T' rocket performed better than I thought, ya bilge rat, me bucko, due t' t' asymmetric drag. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! This be t' second time I have used styrene, matey, shiver me timbers, and it is a nice way t' make complicated shapes, and is easy t' work with. T' first time was t' Estes Space Shuttle, which flew really well, but t' thin styrene be tricky t' get together. Avast! Ahoy! It really looked awesome goin' over t' top like an airplane. Only thin' missin' be t' buzzing. A larger version with a Hypertek hybrid would sound about right:) A little bit larger, me hearties, me hearties, me hearties, and I think an RC version could be worked out with micro servos. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm surprised I haven't seen a ducted fan RC Buzz Bomb, since it be t' perfect model with t' engine in a separate pod, easy t' get at, arrr, me hearties, matey, has a rather large wing, arrr, and t' buzzin' would sound great. Aye aye! Takin' off from a carriage, and landin' on t' belly, or with rudimentary wheels.

Now I can paint t' model, me bucko, and I have some still pictures, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and an attempt at gettin' liftoff, me bucko, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and as soon as I get them developed, I'll put them on me web page.

My friend has already done a D powered Natter, now with our 7.6", me hearties, ya bilge rat, me bucko, 5.5", 4", shiver me timbers, 2.6", and 2" V-2's, and t' V-1, ya bilge rat, we are gettin' a little one sided on t' German side, so we are goin' t' try a 4" X-15 usin' Vacu-formin' for t' body shells, arrr, and win' skins.

Hope this was interesting.