Well, I just finished one o' me more rewardin' projects, that bein' a flyin' V-1 Buzz Bomb. Ahoy! A friend o' mine is into vacu-formin' styrene, and made up t' body and pulse jet intake on a wood lathe, and molded me some pieces, matey, on t' condition I would try t' see if I could make it fly. Dry weight be goin' t' be around 11oz.

I used a 24mm motor tube (aerotech) and installed a thrust ring, and motor hook held in with fiberglass tape and CA. Aye aye! I decided on makin' t' wings and tail and pulse jet supports out o' 1/8" basswood, for it's strength nay much less than plywood, arrr, and a weight nay much more than balsa. Begad! I glued t' wings and tail surfaces and filleted t' t' 24mm core tube. Blimey! Blimey! Since this be a home built mold, matey, shiver me timbers, thar were some imperfections in t' moldin' t' be worked around, and it took a while t' trim them so t' two halves o' t' body and pulse jet were flush. 

I fitted t' two halves o' t' pulse jet intake, me hearties, and made a centerin' rin' out o' styrene t' center t' Estes BT-60 for t' outlet pipe. Arrr! Blimey! It runs t' full length o' t' pulsejet, and is slotted t' allow t' supports t' run through t' wall and glue on t' inside opposite wall o' t' pulsejet. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' pulsejet is hollow, shiver me timbers, and these supports act as fins inside t' tube, as well as make it strong. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I glued a coupler in t' aft end o' t' BT-60 t' strengthen it.

I fitted t' styrene body halves, me hearties, and glued tabs inside t' locate t' halves together, matey, and slotted them for t' wings, ya bilge rat, tail, me bucko, and forward pulsejet support. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I tied a piece o' 90# dacron fishin' line around t' 24mm tube, just forward o' t' forward pulse jet intake for shock line attachment. Begad! Blimey! At this point t' back half hangs slightly tail down for a flat landin' t' minimize win' and tail damage.

I used a styrene forward centerin' rin' since it wasn't takin' any real structural strain. Well, blow me down! I reinforced t' forward end o' t' styrene with another strip o' styrene 3/4" wide glued inside after cuttin' off t' cone section 1" forward o' t' leadin' edge o' t' wings. I reinforced t' lip o' t' cone, and glued another 1.5" strip inside t' cone t' make a shoulder. 

I ran VCP on t' model usin' t' wings as fin set 1, me hearties, me hearties, and t' tail elevators as fin set 2, and neglectin' t' pulse jet, since it would move t' CP back anyway, and was unsymmetric. Begad! VCP showed a CP o' midpoint o' t' wings, ya bilge rat, which is what I would expect for an airplane (from me RC experience). I set t' CG around 1" forward o' t' wings RTF givin' me more than 1 caliber, and which corresponds with other peoples experience with gettin' winged vehicles t' fly upward with stability. Blimey! Finished empty weight came out as 9 oz., with 8oz o' lead shot and epoxy needed in t' nose for balance. Aye aye! This is a lot, matey, but fits in with me original plan t' use 24mm E-15, matey, 18's, me hearties, and F-24, 39's. Final weight with motor and chutes be 19oz. Aye aye! Length is 23" for t' body, me hearties, 27" for total, arrr, 17" wingspan, 3.5" chord, me bucko, 7" tail span. Begad! I used t' Fi103A1 format which had shorter wings than t' later versions, and moved them back 1/2". Aye aye! T' tail cone exit diameter should really be BT-55. Arrr! Body diameter is 3" at t' widest part.

I decided t' cut off t' back end o' t' body and have t' motor tube stick out the  back, matey, so I wouldn't have t' fight asymmetric thrust as well as drag, me bucko, arrr, and It is hard t' tell t' difference when you look at t' model.

I rigged t' nose and body t' come down separately, matey, with a 22" nylon for t' bottom, arrr, and a 20" xform for t' nose. Blimey! T' chutes fit in t' hollow nose. T' 1/8" plywood forward bulkhead in t' nose is just behind t' nose weight. Begad! Avast! This allows plenty o' room for t' two chutes, and 3/8" elastic. Ahoy! Arrr! I rigged t' bottom chute forward, with t' nose chute behind, so they would both get pulled out. Arrr! I used a 9/32" id brass tube as a launch lug, ya bilge rat, on t' bottom just behind t' nose cone joint, since it was t' only place on t' body that was parallel t' t' flyin' surfaces.

Flight be on a foggy calm day with ceilin' around 600'. Ahoy! Boost was vertical for t' first 150' or so, ya bilge rat, then archin' toward t' pulse jet around 15-20 degrees for t' rest o' t' boost. I cut down t' delay from t' E-18-7(8) 1/4" which gave me a 4 second delay (boy these delays are out o' whack) This was from experience. Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It arched over, and ejected perfectly.

On recovery I saw some damage t' t' body plastic which had been torn. I thought it was t' recovery line attach point through t' plastic which had done it, arrr, me hearties, but on inspection I noticed that t' forward centerin' rin' was torn in half, ya bilge rat, and part be missing. Begad! I discovered t' problem. Avast! Since I didn't think t' forward rin' would take any structural force, I didn't put a fillet behind t' ring, matey, me bucko, and relied on t' lip reinforcement t' hold it from goin' forward.

T' ejection charge was so forceful (the cap supplied with t' reload kit) that t' heavy nose resisted ejection, and t' centerin' was blown backwards inside t' body shell. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Once that happened t' body blow out a side portion behind t' wing. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! We taped t' body back with maskin' tape, and flew again on an F-39. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This accelerates faster, ya bilge rat, matey, me hearties, and due t' t' larger drag at higher speed, me bucko, arced a little more than t' E-18. T' V-1 had a half roll on t' way up, t' horizontal flight at t' top, arrr, and a slow half roll arcin' over t' ejection. Recovery be fine this time with no more damage.

I got out t' heat cannon at home, and removed t' remains for o' centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, which was held in place with 5 min. Blimey! Ahoy! epoxy around t' motor tube, arrr, replaced it with 1/8" plywood, me bucko, matey, and fixed t' hairline cracks with liquid styrene cement. It is now RTF and good as new.

This be a really fun, shiver me timbers, and rewardin' project. Aye aye! Avast! T' rocket performed better than I thought, matey, shiver me timbers, due t' t' asymmetric drag. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! This be t' second time I have used styrene, and it is a nice way t' make complicated shapes, and is easy t' work with. Ya scallywag! T' first time be t' Estes Space Shuttle, ya bilge rat, which flew really well, but t' thin styrene was tricky t' get together. Well, matey, blow me down! It really looked awesome goin' over t' top like an airplane. Well, blow me down! Only thin' missin' was t' buzzing. Ya scallywag! Begad! A larger version with a Hypertek hybrid would sound about right:) A little bit larger, me bucko, arrr, and I think an RC version could be worked out with micro servos. Arrr! I'm surprised I haven't seen a ducted fan RC Buzz Bomb, shiver me timbers, since it be t' perfect model with t' engine in a separate pod, easy t' get at, shiver me timbers, arrr, matey, has a rather large wing, ya bilge rat, and t' buzzin' would sound great. Avast, me proud beauty! Takin' off from a carriage, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and landin' on t' belly, or with rudimentary wheels.

Now I can paint t' model, ya bilge rat, and I have some still pictures, and an attempt at gettin' liftoff, and as soon as I get them developed, I'll put them on me web page.

My friend has already done a D powered Natter, arrr, now with our 7.6", 5.5", ya bilge rat, 4", me hearties, 2.6", arrr, and 2" V-2's, and t' V-1, we are gettin' a little one sided on t' German side, arrr, so we are goin' t' try a 4" X-15 usin' Vacu-formin' for t' body shells, matey, and win' skins.

Hope this was interesting.