Scratch Upscale Corkscrew Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Upscale Corkscrew {Scratch}

Contributed by Taylor Jessee

Manufacturer: Scratch
Style: Upscale

Brief:
This is a single-staged mid- t' high-power rocket that is an upscale o' a kit I got 5 years ago for Christmas from me dad when I was 6 years old. Aye aye! I loved that original rocket because it made t' curly smoke trail.

(Scratch) Upscale Corkscrew

Construction:
T' parts list:

  • 1 36" PML Quantum Tubin' made into a 25" main tube and 11" payload bay with coupler
  • 3 1/8" thick plywood fins
  • 2 1/4" thick plywood centerin' rings
  • 1 8" long 29mm motor tube
  • 3ft nylon shock cord
  • 1 9" long x 2" diameter nose cone
  • 2 rail buttons from blacksky Rocketry
  • 1 1.75" long x 1/8" bolt
  • 2 1/8" nuts
  • 1 1" washer
  • 2 X Corkscrew upscaled decals from Tango Papa

I started by cuttin' 11" from t' top o' t' tube for t' payload section. I then put t' nosecone on and put screws in t' hold it on. One o' t' tricky parts on t' rocket be cuttin' t' slots for t' fins. I took t' normal sized corkscrew and marked where t' fins were with a Sharpie marker and a ruler, ya bilge rat, and cut them with a Dremel Tool. Next, I made t' centerin' rings. Aye aye! I traced me coupler onto a piece o' 1/4" plywood and traced me motor tube an 1/8" from one side and 3/4" from t' other side t' same with t' other except it was traced in t' center. My dad then cut them with his jigsaw. Ahoy! T' make t' fins, me bucko, I had t' measure t' little ones and upscale them. Blimey! When you mount t' fins through wall like I did, you should leave about 2" on t' fin tabs so you can stick them in t' slots so you have more than enough t' carefully measure and then cut them down until they mount flush against t' airframe as well as against t' crooked MMT. Begad! I glued t' centerin' rings t' t' motor tube and glued t' fins in. Begad! I then glued t' shock cord down about 5" inside t' Quantum Tubing.

One very important thin' about usin' Quantum Tubin' is you have t' sand t' areas where epoxy will be applied. I finished t' build by gluin' t' coupler in place and screwed in t' rail buttons.

Finishing:
I painted t' nosecone and fin section blue. Ya scallywag! Avast! T' rest was painted red. Avast, me proud beauty! I applied t' decals as shown on t' corkscrew box that t' original kit came in.

Flight:
We drove up t' LDRS 24 from Kansas City, MO, and I flew me new Corkscrew up there. Well, blow me down! I first went t' a vendor and bought a G38-7FJ. Ahoy! I made small tape rin' around it for a thrust rin' and inserted t' motor into t' rocket. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! For motor retention, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I had a bolt drilled through t' back o' t' centerin' rin' with 2 nuts and a washer holdin' t' motor in place. I did nay need waddin' because I used a Nomex pad t' protect t' parachute. Arrr! Begad! I loaded t' parachute, put it on t' rail, and stuck t' igniter in. Avast, me proud beauty! My heart was in me mouth by t' time as t' LCO gave t' countdown. Aye aye! I was amazed t' see it fly perfectly with a swirlin' smoke trail and everything.

I can't wait t' fly it someday on a H128!

Recovery:
At apogee, arrr, me hearties, t' ejection charge fired but t' parachute didn't come out. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rocket landed hard. Avast, me proud beauty! T' parachute didn't come out because I didn't wrap t' parachute tight enough and it got caught on some glue inside t' airframe. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! One o' t' fins broke clean on landin' and should be easy t' fix.

Summary:
I think this rocket is great and is now one o' me favorites.

 

comment Post a Comment