Brief:
This is a single-staged mid- t' high-power rocket that is an upscale o' a kit I got 5 years ago for Christmas from me dad when I be 6 years old. I loved that original rocket because it made t' curly smoke trail.

Construction:
T' parts list:

• 1 36" PML Quantum Tubin' made into a 25" main tube and 11" payload bay with coupler
• 3 1/8" thick plywood fins
• 2 1/4" thick plywood centerin' rings
• 1 8" long 29mm motor tube
• 3ft nylon shock cord
• 1 9" long x 2" diameter nose cone
• 2 rail buttons from blacksky Rocketry
• 1 1.75" long x 1/8" bolt
• 2 1/8" nuts
• 1 1" washer
• 2 X Corkscrew upscaled decals from Tango Papa

I started by cuttin' 11" from t' top o' t' tube for t' payload section. Begad! Blimey! I then put t' nosecone on and put screws in t' hold it on. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! One o' t' tricky parts on t' rocket was cuttin' t' slots for t' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I took t' normal sized corkscrew and marked where t' fins were with a Sharpie marker and a ruler, and cut them with a Dremel Tool. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Next, I made t' centerin' rings. Aye aye! Blimey! I traced me coupler onto a piece o' 1/4" plywood and traced me motor tube an 1/8" from one side and 3/4" from t' other side t' same with t' other except it be traced in t' center. My dad then cut them with his jigsaw. Avast! Blimey! T' make t' fins, shiver me timbers, I had t' measure t' little ones and upscale them. Aye aye! Blimey! When you mount t' fins through wall like I did, shiver me timbers, arrr, you should leave about 2" on t' fin tabs so you can stick them in t' slots so you have more than enough t' carefully measure and then cut them down until they mount flush against t' airframe as well as against t' crooked MMT. I glued t' centerin' rings t' t' motor tube and glued t' fins in. I then glued t' shock cord down about 5" inside t' Quantum Tubing.

One very important thin' about usin' Quantum Tubin' is you have t' sand t' areas where epoxy will be applied. Blimey! Well, blow me down! I finished t' build by gluin' t' coupler in place and screwed in t' rail buttons.

Finishing:
I painted t' nosecone and fin section blue. T' rest be painted red. I applied t' decals as shown on t' corkscrew box that t' original kit came in.

Flight:
We drove up t' LDRS 24 from Kansas City, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, MO, and I flew me new Corkscrew up there. Begad! I first went t' a vendor and bought a G38-7FJ. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I made small tape rin' around it for a thrust rin' and inserted t' motor into t' rocket. For motor retention, me bucko, I had a bolt drilled through t' back o' t' centerin' rin' with 2 nuts and a washer holdin' t' motor in place. Ya scallywag! I did nay need waddin' because I used a Nomex pad t' protect t' parachute. Aye aye! I loaded t' parachute, shiver me timbers, put it on t' rail, ya bilge rat, and stuck t' igniter in. Arrr! My heart was in me mouth by t' time as t' LCO gave t' countdown. I be amazed t' see it fly perfectly with a swirlin' smoke trail and everything.

I can't wait t' fly it someday on a H128!

Recovery:
At apogee, t' ejection charge fired but t' parachute didn't come out. Blimey! T' rocket landed hard. Begad! T' parachute didn't come out because I didn't wrap t' parachute tight enough and it got caught on some glue inside t' airframe. Begad! One o' t' fins broke clean on landin' and should be easy t' fix.

Summary:
I think this rocket is great and is now one o' me favorites.