THE TURNOGIVE !

Michel Demey's Descon-13 Entry

Batten down t' hatches: this thin' is nay flyable!

What is it? An automatic device that can cut an ogive from Styrofoam... Arrr! Blimey!

I was t' author o' a first device t' do that manually. It be described in the Apogee newsletter o' August 2002.

It used two identical templates and a hot wire t' make ogives. But this first try had a problem: New templates had t' be made for each size. Ya scallywag! Well, arrr, blow me down! And I don't like t' make templates. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! A new idea had t' be found.

Here it is!: this new model is motorized and automatic. Avast, me proud beauty! Nay very fast, matey, ya bilge rat, but you can let it work and meanwhile read t' last Apogee newsletter... And it is adjustable.

T' little inconvenient is that t' only shape it can make is an ogive. Begad! Begad!

General view

How it works?

A hot wire saw is mounted on a pivotin' arm that is moved by a first motor coupled t' a threaded rod.
T' Styrofoam bloc is mounted on a rotatin' plate that is powered by a second motor. Blimey!

T' blue plate be t' base, with five small feet, one at each corner and one in t' center. Begad! It is a square 600*600 mm made from 9mm thick plywood.
There are three main assemblies:

• T' rotatin' arm with t' hot wire saw is at left. Avast, me proud beauty!
• T' rotatin' support o' t' Styrofoam block is in front. Well, blow me down!
• T' motor for t' arm is behind, with t' threaded rod. Blimey! Begad!

T' size o' t' machine

Assembly 1: T' mechanism used t' rotate t' Styrofoam block:

All t' ball bearings used t' build t' machine are found in rollerskates. Avast! Aye aye! You can buy them by pack o' 8 in any good sport shop. T' outer diameter o' t' ones I found was 22mm. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Inner diameter be just 8mm, shiver me timbers, arrr, ideal for a threaded rod. Ya scallywag! You guessed: all t' bolds, me hearties, nuts, threaded rod are o' 8mm.

Find your ball bearings, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and buy all t' rest with t' inner size o' them. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

T' stepper motor is o' unipolar type, found in an old matrix printer. Unipolar motors are t' easiest t' drive. Avast! I will describe later t' electronics used t' drive t' machine. Begad! It is intended for unipolar motors only.

How t' know if you have an unipolar motor in your hand? There are 5 or 6 wires.

T' stepper motor is coupled t' t' threaded rod with a small piece of flexible plastic tube. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! This is also t' easiest way t' do that. Ahoy! Gears or pulleys could be use, but believe me, ya bilge rat, me bucko, it is harder.

T' block mechanism is nay fixed t' t' base. Aye aye! Ahoy! It can move laterally, matey, me hearties, t' put the hot wire at t' correct position for t' size you need. Aye aye! It is maintained in place with a screw clamp.

Assembly 2: t' arm.

You can see two little wheels at the movin' end o' t' arm. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! This be t' best, but is nay absolutely necessary. Well, blow me down! Blimey! My first version, ya bilge rat, that worked, used only two blind nuts that slipped on t' base.

T' hot wire holder must have a system t' tense t' wire. Blimey! Blimey! See t' pictures for an example o' how t' do it. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! You can find interestin' information about hot wire cutting, power supply, etc on t' web.

Assembly 3: t' arm motor box.

Since t' arm end moves, t' threaded rod motor holder must be able t' rotate. Ya scallywag! T' arm motor box has only one ball bearing. One bold hold it t' t' base. Avast! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Another holds it t' a sort o' bridge that covers it. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! All this mount is nay glued t' t' base, because I was nay sure o' the final position. In fact, it will surely be in a different place dependin' of the size o' t' ogive made. Aye aye! Arrr!

Last details

the movin' end o' t' arm I used a simple nut t' drive t' arm. Begad! Ahoy! It would be probably better with a coupler, but a nut works. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! It is soldered on t' head o' bolt. T' whole must rotate. On this detail view appears t' end o' course contact switch, that reverses the motion o' t' arm each time it is activated. Avast!

the movin' end o' t' rod T' end o' t' rod moves from left t' right. Blimey! I chose t' put a ball bearin' thar also. If not, all t' rod weight will be on t' nut that drives t' arm, which isn't very good. T' ball bearin' rolls one a little wood block, and you must carefully adjust the height o' t' block t' assure that t' rod is perfectly horizontal. Adjust also t' nut o' t' arm t' align t' whole. Aye aye! T' width o' t' block should surely be adjusted if another size o' ogive is made. Well, blow me down! Don't forget it.

Electronics

Motor driver

Power supply for t' two boards can be done with a 12V battery. Aye aye! Keep your adjustable supply for t' wire

How to connect t' motor wires?

1. There are 6 wires, formin' two circuits o' three wires. Avast! First identify the two circuits. Begad!
2. Choose one wire and connect it t' your ohmmeter. Begad!
3. Find three other wires that have no connection with t' one you chose. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Mark them: this be t' first circuit. Begad!
4. ... t' three others are from t' second circuit, shiver me timbers, o' course!
5. For t' first circuit:
   1. Choose one wire and connect it t' your ohmmeter. Aye aye! Ahoy!
   2. Check t' resistance with each o' t' remainin' wire. Ya scallywag!
   3. If it be t' same, t' wire you chose be t' center. Arrr! Begad! Mark it. Avast! Ya scallywag!
   4. If not, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, choose another one. Ya scallywag! And repeat until you find t' center. Well, blow me down!

Left and right seems t' have no importance. Begad! Blimey! If you exchange them, t' motor turn in t' opposite side.

Build t' circuit on a striped board:

Driver o' t' driver (flip flop)

• rev and turn t' t' driver that controls t' threaded rod motor
• step t' t' driver that controls t' block motor. Arrr!