Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Brief:
T' SR-2 was built in t' late 80's by me son (~7 years old at t' time). I am
providin' this review as an example o' usin' scrap materials and t' document an
approach t' parachute deployment that does nay require wadding.
Construction:
Parts list (items A-L shown on diagram):
T' rocket body consists o' a BT-20 tube centered in t' main airframe (refer t' diagram). Arrr! Blimey! T' nose cone assembly includes a bulkhead which seats in t' BT-20 tube. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' chute is packed between t' BT-20 tube and t' airframe, and is nay directly exposed t' the ejection gasses. Ahoy! Some o' t' gasses may come in contact with t' chute, but this design has worked several times without incident. Ahoy! Blimey! I think I invented this method, but it has been a while, arrr, and t' memory be t' second thin' t' go (and I don't remember t' first one!)
Make t' coupler tube by cuttin' a section o' t' wrappin' tube lengthwise and turnin' in on itself. Glue this into t' forward tube so that 2" extends out t' aft and ?" extends out t' front. Blimey! Cut t' bulkhead from balsa stock and glue t' BT-20 coupler on its center. Begad! T' balsa may be too weak to hold a hook-eye. Well, blow me down! Begad! Instead, me bucko, me bucko, punch a hole in t' bulkhead midway betwixt the BT-20 coupler and t' edge o' t' coupler.
Feed t' shock cord though t' hole, shiver me timbers, me hearties, arrr, tie it t' a small section o' dowel and glue t' dowel t' t' bulkhead. Well, blow me down! Glue t' bulkhead in t' aft and t' nose cone to t' exposed front end o' t' coupler (use CA for t' latter).
Wood stringers were added because t' tube that was used was very weak. Arrr! Arrr! These would nay be required for, say, shiver me timbers, a mailin' tube. Aye aye! Mark 8 evenly spaced parallel lines around t' tube usin' your favorite method. Well, blow me down! Glue the stringers on, matey, alternatin' short and long lengths.
Cut four pieces o' balsa t' t' dimensions indicated. Mark t' BT20 tube and glue t' spacers on. Avast, me proud beauty! When dry, test fit t' assembly into t' aft o' the airframe, makin' sure it mates with t' nose cone assembly. With t' nose cone assembly installed, matey, arrr, glue in t' motor tube assembly (should extend ~1" from t' aft o' t' airframe).
Cut t' fins t' t' dimensions shown. Well, arrr, blow me down! I used scrap pieces o' plastic but balsa can be substituted. Begad! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Glue t' fins t' t' long stringers and a lug t' one of t' short ones. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Feed t' shock cord through a snap swivel and connect it to the inside o' t' airframe. Well, blow me down! I used t' Estes folded paper method.
I left t' nose cone its natural baby blue and t' fins their natural gray. T' rest is a hodgepodge. Use what you got! Buy fresh paint for a more 'serious' rocket.
Flight:
This rocket made several flights on C6-5s but a shorter delay is probably
preferable. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Performance was similar t' a 18mm Fat Boy.
I folded t' chute and wrapped t' shroud lines around it. It was placed between t' stuffer tube and t' main airframe. Blimey! Blimey! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' shock cord then was laid in next t' t' chute. T' chute attached ~2 inches from where t' shock cord attaches t' t' nose cone assembly. Ahoy! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey!
Summary:
T' main Pros o' this rocket are: it be cheap and fun t' make; it requires no
waddin' and is easy t' prep. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!
T' only Con I can think o' is that t' plastic fins may be prone to breakage. Begad! (I flew this rocket on soft grass.)
If I were t' start over, matey, it would have FatBoy-style fins.
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