| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Augie - Sport
2-Stage, matey, me bucko, ya bilge rat, single-piece, me bucko, ducted sport flier based on Estes MRN designs Nos. 10 28
Shortly after becomin' a BAR a couple o' years ago, ya bilge rat, I accidentally discovered JimZ Rocket Plans site on t' web and was overcome by nostalgia. Avast, me proud beauty! I quickly downloaded a bunch o' old plans, especially t' ones from old issues o' Estes' Model Rocket News. One that I particularly liked was Estes MRN plan No. Aye aye! 10, arrr, Lil' Augie, arrr, me bucko, a two-stage, matey, ya bilge rat, single-piece, matey, ducted rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! There's no hidden secret t' a ducted design, t' idea is t' create a two-staged rocket that doesn't carry t' extra weight and drag o' a booster with large fins. T' down-side is that you probably add enough drag with t' sustainer motor air ducts to offset t' gains o' eliminatin' t' booster. Aye aye! Blimey! Regardless o' t' aerodynamics, t' rocket is fun t' fly because o' the surprised looks you get from t' onlookers when t' booster motor snaps clear and t' sustainer motor fires. No one ever expects t' little rocket t' have a second stage, me hearties, and it really flies quite high, especially when staged C6 t' C6. After Lil' Augie I built a second ducted design, t' Augie-II, Estes plan No. Ahoy! 28. Begad! Same deal, just a modified design -- probably redesigned t' avoid t' eventual demise o' t' Lil' Augie, arrr, ya bilge rat, arrr, from t' sustainer motor singein' t' lower airframe. Avast, me proud beauty! I went on t' create me own Augie-III, which was basically an up-scale o' Augie-II, ya bilge rat, stagin' D12 t' D12. Finally, I decided I wanted t' update t' Augie with a smoother, more aerodynamic design, me hearties, and I built t' Augie-Sport. Ya scallywag!
In t' original Augie designs a smaller-diameter, matey, upper tube and a larger-diameter, lower tube are connected together t' form t' airframe (i.e. Blimey! Blimey! for t' Augie-II a BT-20 upper is connected with 4 balsa "fins" t' a lower BT-60 airframe). Two 18mm motors are taped (scotch, arrr, or transparent tape, ya bilge rat, me bucko, shiver me timbers, nay maskin' tape!) together end-to-end and inserted into t' upper BT-20 up t' t' tape joint. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' booster motor is left free-floating, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, arrr, surrounded by the lower, larger airframe tube but held in place by t' tape connectin' t' motors together -- a method now often referred to as C.H.A.D. (CHeap And Dirty) staging. Ducts t' supply air for t' upper, me hearties, sustainer motor were created by t' gap between t' smaller-diameter, ya bilge rat, upper airframe and t' larger-diameter, me hearties, lower airframe. T' air ducts prevent the over-expansion o' exhaust gases (the "Krushnic effect") from robbin' t' sustainer motor's thrust and burning up t' lower airframe. This design had t' advantage o' increased stability as t' lower airframe tube acts somewhat as a tube-fin and keeps t' center o' pressure aft-ward. However it has t' disadvantage o' addin' drag because o' the abrupt airframe transition, me bucko, me hearties, and also by nature o' t' fact that drag is directly proportional t' area, and in t' case of Augie-II t' area o' t' lower airframe is more than 4X that o' t' smaller upper. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!
For t' new Augie-Sport design I wanted t' try t' minimize t' added drag o' t' abrupt airframe transition. Begad! Blimey! To accomplish this I used only one airframe diameter for both t' lower and upper stage, shiver me timbers, and built t' ducts t' draw air into t' lower airframe tube t' supply t' sustainer motor. Avast! Blimey! I wanted t' keep some resemblance o' t' earlier Augie designs, ya bilge rat, but I was goin' t' significantly change t' design o' t' sustainer's ducting, and given that thar isn't much to a rocket that can be carried through from generation t' generation, matey, I decided t' keep t' same fin design as the Augie-II. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! Finally, me bucko, I ended up with a roughly 10" long, me hearties, shiver me timbers, 6-finned, BT-60 design with 6 open air ducts 4" from the tail o' t' rocket. T' rocket flies beautifully straight usin' both B6 t' B6 and C6 t' C6 18mm motors.
Materials:
1. Well, blow me down! (1) BT-60, 5-1/4"
2. Avast, me proud beauty! (1) BT-60, ya bilge rat, 4"
3. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! (1) BT-20, matey, me bucko, 3-5/8"
4. Well, blow me down! Blimey! (1) PNC-60A
5. (2) BT-20 t' BT-60 cardboard centerin' ring
6. Blimey! (1) EB-20 engine block
7. Arrr! (2) LL-3/16", me bucko, 5-1/8"L
8. Avast, me proud beauty! (6) Balsa fin (see pattern)
9. Arrr! (6) Balsa support fin (see pattern)
10. Well, blow me down! (6) Paper BT-60 t' BT-20 transition form (see pattern)
11. (1) 12" chute
12. Aye aye! Avast! (1) 24" shock cord
Construction:
Start by constructin' t' engine mount assembly. Aye aye! Insert engine block into fore end o' BT-20 engine tube at a position where t' sustainer engine will protrude from t' aft-end o' t' engine tube by 1/2". Avast! Glue centering rings 1/8" from t' fore end o' engine tube and 1-5/8" from aft-end o' engine tube. Well, me bucko, blow me down!
Next attach t' 6 balsa support fins t' t' engine tube, equally spaced around t' engine tube, as shown in the first diagram. Fillet fins for strength. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag!
Glue t' 6 BT-60 t' BT-20 paper transition sections betwixt each o' t' 6 support fins. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! as shown in t' second diagram. Coat each transition with 30-minute epoxy t' add strength t' t' paper transition and t' fillet each o' the support fins. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Blimey!
Attach shock cord t' engine mount assembly. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I do this by cuttin' a small slit in t' fore centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, passing the shock cord through t' slit, and tyin' a knot t' hold t' shock cord firmly. Begad! Begad! A small drop o' glue on t' knot will help t' keep t' knot from untyin' and passin' back through t' slit.
Insert t' engine mount assembly into t' longer BT-60 airframe section and glue into place. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down!
Slide t' shorter BT-60 airframe over t' 6 support fins until t' two airframe sections are separated by a 3/4" gap, this forms t' sustainers air ducts. At this point make sure t' airframes line up straight. Begad! Glue aft airframe section t' support fins and fillet each support inside t' aft airframe section. Avast, me proud beauty!
Attach t' 6 balsa fins t' t' aft airframe. Begad! Blimey! Fins can either be lined up with support fins or offset, matey, whichever look you prefer. Arrr! Blimey! One can use t' Estes fin alignment guide by tapin' two spent engine casings together and inserting them into t' forward engine tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Fillet fins (That's a lot o' filleting, me hearties, by-the-way!). Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!
Attach launch lugs at aft end o' each airframe section. Well, blow me down! Fillet lugs.
Attach chute and shock cord t' PNC-60 nose cone. Blimey! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
Finish. Avast!
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