| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Augie - Sport
2-Stage, single-piece, matey, ducted sport flier based on Estes MRN designs Nos. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! 10 28
Shortly after becomin' a BAR a couple o' years ago, me bucko, I accidentally discovered JimZ Rocket Plans site on t' web and was overcome by nostalgia. I quickly downloaded a bunch o' old plans, especially t' ones from old issues o' Estes' Model Rocket News. Avast! One that I particularly liked be Estes MRN plan No. Aye aye! 10, matey, Lil' Augie, shiver me timbers, a two-stage, ya bilge rat, single-piece, ducted rocket. Begad! There's no hidden secret t' a ducted design, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' idea is t' create a two-staged rocket that doesn't carry t' extra weight and drag o' a booster with large fins. Begad! Ahoy! T' down-side is that you probably add enough drag with t' sustainer motor air ducts to offset t' gains o' eliminatin' t' booster. Ahoy! Regardless o' t' aerodynamics, t' rocket is fun t' fly because o' the surprised looks you get from t' onlookers when t' booster motor snaps clear and t' sustainer motor fires. Ahoy! Begad! No one ever expects t' little rocket t' have a second stage, me bucko, and it really flies quite high, ya bilge rat, especially when staged C6 t' C6. After Lil' Augie I built a second ducted design, shiver me timbers, t' Augie-II, Estes plan No. Begad! Begad! 28. Same deal, just a modified design -- probably redesigned t' avoid t' eventual demise o' t' Lil' Augie, ya bilge rat, from t' sustainer motor singein' t' lower airframe. Arrr! I went on t' create me own Augie-III, ya bilge rat, which was basically an up-scale o' Augie-II, stagin' D12 t' D12. Finally, I decided I wanted t' update t' Augie with a smoother, arrr, more aerodynamic design, and I built t' Augie-Sport. Avast, me proud beauty!
In t' original Augie designs a smaller-diameter, me hearties, shiver me timbers, upper tube and a larger-diameter, lower tube are connected together t' form t' airframe (i.e. Begad! Aye aye! for t' Augie-II a BT-20 upper is connected with 4 balsa "fins" t' a lower BT-60 airframe). Avast! Begad! Two 18mm motors are taped (scotch, or transparent tape, nay maskin' tape!) together end-to-end and inserted into t' upper BT-20 up t' t' tape joint. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' booster motor is left free-floating, shiver me timbers, arrr, surrounded by the lower, me hearties, larger airframe tube but held in place by t' tape connectin' t' motors together -- a method now often referred to as C.H.A.D. (CHeap And Dirty) staging. Blimey! Arrr! Ducts t' supply air for t' upper, matey, sustainer motor were created by t' gap between t' smaller-diameter, matey, upper airframe and t' larger-diameter, lower airframe. Ya scallywag! Well, me bucko, blow me down! T' air ducts prevent the over-expansion o' exhaust gases (the "Krushnic effect") from robbin' t' sustainer motor's thrust and burning up t' lower airframe. Ahoy! This design had t' advantage o' increased stability as t' lower airframe tube acts somewhat as a tube-fin and keeps t' center o' pressure aft-ward. Well, blow me down! Begad! However it has t' disadvantage o' addin' drag because o' the abrupt airframe transition, and also by nature o' t' fact that drag is directly proportional t' area, ya bilge rat, and in t' case of Augie-II t' area o' t' lower airframe is more than 4X that o' t' smaller upper. Well, blow me down!
For t' new Augie-Sport design I wanted t' try t' minimize t' added drag o' t' abrupt airframe transition. To accomplish this I used only one airframe diameter for both t' lower and upper stage, and built t' ducts t' draw air into t' lower airframe tube t' supply t' sustainer motor. I wanted t' keep some resemblance o' t' earlier Augie designs, but I was goin' t' significantly change t' design o' t' sustainer's ducting, and given that thar isn't much to a rocket that can be carried through from generation t' generation, I decided t' keep t' same fin design as the Augie-II. Finally, matey, I ended up with a roughly 10" long, 6-finned, shiver me timbers, BT-60 design with 6 open air ducts 4" from the tail o' t' rocket. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Blimey! T' rocket flies beautifully straight usin' both B6 t' B6 and C6 t' C6 18mm motors. Ya scallywag!
Materials:
1. Begad! Avast! (1) BT-60, matey, ya bilge rat, 5-1/4"
2. Begad! (1) BT-60, 4"
3. Begad! (1) BT-20, 3-5/8"
4. (1) PNC-60A
5. Arrr! (2) BT-20 t' BT-60 cardboard centerin' ring
6. Avast! (1) EB-20 engine block
7. (2) LL-3/16", 5-1/8"L
8. Blimey! (6) Balsa fin (see pattern)
9. Begad! (6) Balsa support fin (see pattern)
10. Well, matey, blow me down! (6) Paper BT-60 t' BT-20 transition form (see pattern)
11. Ya scallywag! Blimey! (1) 12" chute
12. Avast, me proud beauty! (1) 24" shock cord
Construction:
Start by constructin' t' engine mount assembly. Aye aye! Insert engine block into fore end o' BT-20 engine tube at a position where t' sustainer engine will protrude from t' aft-end o' t' engine tube by 1/2". Begad! Glue centering rings 1/8" from t' fore end o' engine tube and 1-5/8" from aft-end o' engine tube.
Next attach t' 6 balsa support fins t' t' engine tube, equally spaced around t' engine tube, me hearties, as shown in the first diagram. Arrr! Blimey! Fillet fins for strength. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey!
Glue t' 6 BT-60 t' BT-20 paper transition sections betwixt each o' t' 6 support fins. as shown in t' second diagram. Ahoy! Coat each transition with 30-minute epoxy t' add strength t' t' paper transition and t' fillet each o' the support fins. Well, blow me down!
Attach shock cord t' engine mount assembly. I do this by cuttin' a small slit in t' fore centerin' ring, me bucko, matey, passing the shock cord through t' slit, and tyin' a knot t' hold t' shock cord firmly. Ahoy! A small drop o' glue on t' knot will help t' keep t' knot from untyin' and passin' back through t' slit. Well, blow me down! Begad!
Insert t' engine mount assembly into t' longer BT-60 airframe section and glue into place. Ya scallywag!
Slide t' shorter BT-60 airframe over t' 6 support fins until t' two airframe sections are separated by a 3/4" gap, this forms t' sustainers air ducts. At this point make sure t' airframes line up straight. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Glue aft airframe section t' support fins and fillet each support inside t' aft airframe section.
Attach t' 6 balsa fins t' t' aft airframe. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Fins can either be lined up with support fins or offset, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, whichever look you prefer. One can use t' Estes fin alignment guide by tapin' two spent engine casings together and inserting them into t' forward engine tube. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Fillet fins (That's a lot o' filleting, shiver me timbers, by-the-way!). Ya scallywag!
Attach launch lugs at aft end o' each airframe section. Avast, me proud beauty! Fillet lugs. Aye aye!
Attach chute and shock cord t' PNC-60 nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!
Finish. Blimey! Blimey!
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