Beldar t' Conehead

I will be t' first t' admit that I spent far too much time watchin' TV as a kid. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Especially far too much SNL. Aye aye! Blimey! When I found a collectable(?) figurine o' Beldar, arrr, t' Conehead parental unit from t' planet Remulak, in a clearance bin at a local store I realized it was goin' t' be me mission t' return him t' his home planet regardless o' how many mass quantities o' Newtons it would take!

T' model flies well on an 18mm two motor cluster. Ahoy! At apogee twin parachutes are deployed.

While t' plan presented here applies specifically t' t' Beldar figurine, t' design can be adapted t' fit most figurines o' similar size and construction. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! Cap'n Picard, for example, ya bilge rat, should work well with his smooth boundary layer control head. Avast, me proud beauty! A Klingon might suffer performance troubles due t' t' decidedly non-laminar flow over t' forehead.

T' figurine used should ideally be around 11" tall, have a partin' line at t' waist, and have legs that can accommodate a BT-20 sized tube. Arrr! It should be made o' a vinyl compound that is easily cut with an X-acto knife.

T' "Beldar" I used is made by t' Hamilton Gift company.

Construction begins with separatin' t' Conehead at t' waist. Arrr! Just follow t' glue line with a very sharp knife. Ya scallywag! Once separated, measure t' length and spacin' o' t' legs and determine if t' plan dimensions need t' be adjusted t' fit your figure.

Next cut BT-20 sized holes in t' feet o' t' lower section and, shiver me timbers, if required t' fit t' body tube in t' legs, cut a slit in both t' inseam and outseam o' Beldar's pants. Begad! Once you are satisfied with t' fit you can start t' construct t' booster.

T' business end o' Beldar's booster.

T' booster section (or Remulakian Trans-Spatial Insertion Device if you prefer) is built in its entirety before attachin' t' legs. T' rin' fin is made o' 1/32" plywood, me hearties, bent on t' inside o' a 4" PVC pipe coupling. Ya scallywag! I cut t' strip o' ply 1 3/8" wide and a full length 24" long. Begad! Begad! Blimey! Don't cut t' strip t' t' final length until after it has been bent.

Glue a PVC endcap on one end o' a section o' scrap PVC pipe that has an inside diameter big enough for t' strip t' fit into. Ahoy! Begad! This will be used t' steam t' plywood in prior t' bendin' it. Begad! Ya scallywag! Place t' strip inside t' pipe and then fill t' pipe with boilin' water. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Remember t' be careful, have adult supervision, and all appropriate safety gear. Blimey! Aye aye! Let t' wood soak for 5 minutes or so and then carefully pull t' wood out o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Form t' strip into a rin' by curlin' it and by placin' it inside t' 4" couplin' inside diameter. Let t' strip overlap itself. With any luck at all t' springiness o' t' wood will make it conform t' t' couplin' without additional clamping. Well, blow me down! Allow t' strip t' completely dry before removin' it. Arrr! If it isn't completely dry it will unroll.

T' ends o' t' strip never get perfectly curved so trim them off. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Adjust t' diameter o' t' rin' t' match t' plan (5" inside diameter on me model), arrr, mark, and cut t' strip t' size. Begad! Blimey! Leave 1" o' overlap for t' glue joint. T' ply will nay absorb "white" glue well. Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I roughened up t' surface and used epoxy. Blimey! Blimey! Once t' glue has dried, sand, fill, and sand t' joint on t' outside o' t' ring. Aye aye! Blimey! T' inside edge can be left square.

Photo by Alan Estenson, arrr, matey, President o' MASA

T' fins were cut from 1/8" hard balsa. Ya scallywag! Adjust t' size as necessary t' match your figurine. T' larger fin goes betwixt Beldar's legs. Arrr! Glue a spacer block on each side o' t' fin at t' centerline. Begad! Well, blow me down! Next glue t' two BT-20 tubes t' t' spacers. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Insure t' tubes are correctly lined up! T' ends o' t' tubes should be flush with t' trailin' edge o' t' fin. Arrr! T' shorter fins are then glued t' t' tubes. Well, blow me down! Finally glue t' rin' t' t' fin tips. Avast! I used epoxy for this. Align one fin up against t' inside edge o' t' rin' joint overlap. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Install motor blocks or hooks into each o' t' tubes. Blimey! Ya scallywag! If you use hooks then glue on a doubler cut from scrap body tube over t' top half o' t' hook. This helps t' keep t' hook in place.I used a motor overhang o' 3/8". Glue t' launch lug t' t' large fin on what will become t' "butt" side o' t' model. Ahoy! Position t' lug as close t' center as practical without t' launch rod hittin' Beldar's back when t' torso is in place. Well, blow me down! Fillet everything.

It's a lot easier t' paint t' booster section now. Ya scallywag! Mask off t' tubes were t' legs will glue t' them and then spray away usin' your favorite paint. I chose Rustoleum metallic silver since it matched t' color o' Beldar's cape well, arrr, and because I am attracted t' shiny things.

Slide t' leg half o' Beldar over t' two body tubes and glue them into position. Blimey! T' soles o' his boots should be even with t' top o' t' rin' fin.

Super glue bonds t' vinyl t' t' tube quite well. Well, blow me down! For a better appearance enlarge t' slit on t' outside o' t' legs t' fit a 1/8" wide strip o' balsa. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! When painted this makes t' ugly slot look like a feature o' t' pants. Arrr! Install a card stock bulkhead at t' waistline. Begad! Ya scallywag! This stops ejection gas and debris from shootin' down t' pants and givin' our Conehead a hot foot. Install a ¾" long piece o' balsa betwixt t' tubes where they project out o' t' pants. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Place it about ½" up from t' waistline bulkhead. Arrr! Adjust t' thickness t' hold t' tubes parallel t' each other. Use lots o' glue here, as this will also be where t' torso shock cord will attach.

Cut any vinyl on t' underside o' t' torso waist joint away, leavin' a 1/8" or so wide flange. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Test fit t' torso over t' body tubes and on t' t' waist. Avast! He should slide on smoothly without much drag. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Cut a bulkhead out o' 3/16" heavy balsa or 1/8" ply. Ya scallywag! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! Leave extra material on t' edge so you can custom fit it t' your figure. Ahoy! Avast! Blimey! Make two balsa couplers (plugs) that fit nicely into t' BT-20 tubes. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Blimey! These plugs perform t' same function as t' shoulder on a normal nosecone. T' correctly space t' plugs, me hearties, first insert them halfway into each tube. Begad! Then smear glue on t' ends and set t' bulkhead on top o' them. Blimey! Blimey! You will find it easier t' fit t' bulkhead t' t' torso if you first make a pattern out o' cardboard first and then transfer this shape t' t' wood.

Drill a small hole in t' area indicated. Tie a knot on one end o' t' shock cord and pull t' cord through t' bulkhead from t' far side, matey, ya bilge rat, apply a dab o' glue.

Set t' bulkhead assembly into t' body tubes, ya bilge rat, me bucko, arrr, put glue on t' outside edge and push t' torso over t' bulkhead and down t' t' waist. Ahoy! Be careful nay t' glue t' waist and torso back together. Ya scallywag! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Tie t' free end o' t' shock cord around t' body tube spacer block and glue in place.

Detail shot with t' torso separated.

For t' recovery system make up two Estes style 12" parachutes. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! Use a folded paper mount t' attach t' elastic shock cord t' t' inside o' each tube. Begad! Blimey! Remember t' mount must nay interfere with t' bulkhead plugs. Ahoy! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! Tie a parachute t' each o' t' free ends o' t' elastic cords.

Prepare Beldar for his homeward trip by placin' adequate waddin' into t' body tubes. Ahoy! Fold and insert t' parachutes and elastic cords. Ya scallywag! Fold t' torso shock cord and place it betwixt t' two tubes and then slide t' torso into pace until t' plugs (couplers) are in t' tubes. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' torso should have enough o' a friction fit that t' model doesn't separate when lifted by t' head (cone), but will pull apart with a slight tug.

Insert t' motors into t' legs. Ya scallywag! Prior t' t' first flight you will want t' perform a swin' test t' ensure Beldar is stable. Ya scallywag! Add cone weight as necessary. Ahoy! Install and wire t' igniters in t' normal cluster fashion.

My model had a finished empty weight o' 5.75 ounces. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Beldar has flown well on two C6-5's. Avast, me proud beauty! B motors could be used, but I would use a 4' launch rod just t' be safe.

Twin flames accelerate our intrepid Conehead skyward at a recent MASA launch. Photo courtesy o' Dave Fergus.

Upon ignition o' t' dual tree derived cellulose pressure cased chemical decomposition thermal Newtonian thruster pods Beldar will leap off o' t' pad and streak skyward. If he reaches trans-space insertion velocity he will pop through a wormhole and be home in time for lunch. Otherwise he activates his ground return safety devices and floats back t' earth. Well, blow me down! Begad! Remulak technology is notoriously unreliable.

Should only one o' t' two motors ignite, me bucko, poor parental unit Beldar will take a sharp left and head t' France, no doubt t' drown his sorrows by consumin' mass quantities o' cylindrically packaged carbonated beverages. Aye aye! Begad!

In conclusion, arrr, arrr, Mr. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Lithgow you are no Dan Aykroyd, shiver me timbers, Sir. Aye aye! Blimey! Jane Curtin, how could you.

Click here for t' plans.

 
Photo by Meg Gerdes WHEEHAAAAAAA!