Brief:
Almost immediately after t' Micromaxx TOG was released in 2006, shiver me timbers, Jim Flis was buried with requests for an upscale. This 24mm version is a gorgeous rendition o' t' stylish, matey, futuristic spacecraft design. Arrr! Avast! It flies every bit as great as it looks, me hearties, too.

Construction:
Collectors will be pleased t' know that I just increased t' scarcity o' t' numbered kits by buildin' #11. Begad! What can I say? When you get your hands on a kit this cool, it's pretty tough t' let it sit gatherin' dust for years.

T' bag comes packed with plenty o' quality parts, matey, me hearties, including:

• Balsa nose cone
• Balsa transition
• BT-60 main body tube
• BT-55 upper and side body tubes
• BT-50/24mm motor tube
• 1/8" balsa fin stock
• Laser cut fiber ramjet set (2)
• 16" plastic chute
• Keelhaul®©™®+elastic shock cord
• 3/16" launch lugs
• engine hook/block

This is listed as a skill level 3.5 kit on a 5 scale. That's reasonably accurate as thar are some challenging scalloped tube cuts involved with this as well as some delicate fin shapes.

T' instructions are excellent--very clear, easy t' follow, me bucko, and loaded with helpful illustrations. Ahoy! There are a total o' 34 numbered steps spannin' seven 8.5" x 11" pages. Ya scallywag! Dependin' on how picky you are on finishing, me hearties, shiver me timbers, expect t' spend a good 8-10 hours on t' build, plus another full 8 on t' finishing. Well, blow me down! This is not a quick and easy build.

T' motor tube takes a standard 18/24 centerin' rin' as a block with a metal hook for retention, matey, but since it is attached directly t' t' inside edge o' t' BT-60 main tube rather than via centerin' rings, arrr, t' hook is held in place by a strip o' gauze.

T' next few steps involve cuttin' t' BT-60 and markin' t' various fin attachment lines. If you've ever built either t' Long Overdue, Just Past Due, me hearties, or maybe t' Night Whisperer/Farscape from FlisKits, then you've got an idea of what's involved in cuttin' t' scalloped tubes. Ya scallywag! It does take a fresh, shiver me timbers, arrr, sharp blade, preferably a #10 X-Acto rather than a utility/razor blade.

At this point, ya bilge rat, before followin' t' instructions and bondin' t' BT-50 t' t' BT-60, ya bilge rat, matey, me bucko, you might want t' think through your paint plan. Blimey! Ahoy! (You do have a paint plan, ya bilge rat, me bucko, don't you?) If you want t' get a nice finish on the BT-50 and/or go with contrastin' inner and outer tube colors, shiver me timbers, then you should mask off a thin strip t' serve as a bond line on each tube then paint them individually. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Once everythin' is painted and dried, shiver me timbers, remove t' maskin' tape and bond t' tubes together with some medium CA.

Cuttin' out t' fin patterns is a little confusin' if you're used t' 3FNC style construction. For starters, matey, there aren't more than 2 o' any particular shape, ya bilge rat, they have weird names, shiver me timbers, and for a few o' them thar be no root/tip, but two different root edges. Aye aye! T' really tricky aspect is that thar are some very tight curves and corners, some o' which will be cut across t' grain. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' instructions include a tip t' laminate t' fin stock first by gluin' a sheet o' paper to each side. That's an excellent suggestion as it also eliminates a lot o' grain filling.

T' main body tube (BT-60) winds up gettin' three fins--two side fins for t' pods and a top/dorsal fin.

Next up comes t' ramjet assembly, which is really a marvel o' design and creativity. Begad! Blimey! The intake fins are laser cut t' very precise tolerances. Once they are glued surroundin' a launch lug, it fits perfectly inside t' BT-55 pod tubes. T' only suggestion I'd make t' improve this would be t' whip up a markin' guide for 8-fin pattern around a 3/16" lug. Begad! Blimey! It's pretty easy t' get these out o' alignment without properly spaced (and straight) lines. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Once complete, again consider t' paint plan before bonding--you'll certainly want t' paint these a contrasting color, arrr, me bucko, me bucko, so paint first, bond later.

Two ramjet and one dorsal tube are cut from a BT-55, ya bilge rat, again usin' patterns and a fresh blade for t' tapered cuts. They're bonded t' t' correspondin' fins on t' BT-60 and each gets some variation o' an outer fin as well.

T' upper section is basically a payload bay consistin' o' a balsa transition, a BT-55 tube, and a balsa nose cone.

Construction wraps up by attachin' t' shock cord. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! T' instructions suggest anchorin' it t' t' inner tube BT-55/BT-60 seam, me hearties, ya bilge rat, but I would suggest thar are two problems with this. First, matey, matey, it's a little tough t' get a good bond in thar after t' two tubes are already glued together, and second, you'll have a very visible externally anchored cord. Begad! Avast! I would instead suggest either a tri-fold mount t' t' motor tube or usin' a little extra Keelhaul®©™®, anchorin' t' t' 18/24 centerin' rin' motor block.

Finishing:
Finishin' can be a lot o' work on this as you have 6 tubes, arrr, me bucko, 6 fins, arrr, and a pretty long balsa nose cone and transition to fill and finish. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! I typically do all me spiral and grain fillin' before assembly, shiver me timbers, and that's certainly a must for somethin' as complex as this.

Since I pre-painted most parts, I be able t' hold fairly closely t' t' stock paint scheme. Aye aye! I went with a green metallic for most o' t' body tubes, matey, black fins and payload tube, and bright red ramjets. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I had trouble gettin' a low humidity day and wound up gettin' a pretty feeble gloss, so also I applied generous touches o' Future floor polish hopin' t' give it a good shine.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
T' instructions specifically warn against usin' E motors, so t' official recommendations are C11-3 and D12-5. Avast! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I would guess t' warnin' is based on t' lower initial spike o' t' E9, nay so much t' additional weight's impact on CG, shiver me timbers, because on a D12-5 this be plenty stable, flyin' perfectly straight in 5-8 mph winds. Arrr! If you really must go for more power, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I'd think an Aerotech E15 or even an F12 would be fine, although on an F12 you'd be hittin' some insane altitudes with this.

Recovery:
T' chute supplied be t' standard Flis 8/12/16 chute, where you cut whatever size pattern you want. Aye aye! In this case, you'll need every bit o' t' 16 and should consider upgradin' t' a 24" if you have a spare. Under a 16" chute, me hearties, me bucko, mine came down a bit hard, arrr, and naturally found t' road, breakin' off one fin on impact. Aye aye!

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is one o' t' coolest designs in t' FlisKits fleet. Begad! Aye aye! I could see a bigger chute and different shock cord anchor technique as improvements, me hearties, but I wouldn't exactly call them "cons". Ahoy! T' pros are first and foremost an outstandin' design, me bucko, especially t' ramjets. Arrr! Second, it's a sweet flier. It's got stylin' and performance and is fun to build. Avast! You can't go wrong with this beauty.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5