Manufacturer: | Scratch |
37" x 4" - 14 oz
29mm
parachute
Brief:
This is an Odd Roc built with found materials ($3.50 worth) It flies well on
F's and G's (Econojets, matey, o' course). It is actually quite rugged and a longer
version would stand up t' bigger motors. Arrr! It is a kid and crowd pleaser wherever
it flies.
Construction:
T' body tube are Snack 'Ums cans with t' steel bottoms removed via can
opener. T' nosecone is a Styrofoam cone sold at craft stores for Christmas
crafts.($1.35). Ahoy! I made two centerin' rings usin' t' Budget Rocketry circle
cutter and a wood bit for t' center hole. Ahoy! They are made out o' 1/8" balsa
and then circles o' cereal box are laminated t' each side o' t' balsa T' fins
are rectangles o' 1/8" balsa laminated with cereal box material (Froot
Loops, me bucko, O' course. Ya scallywag! There is a cereal for every type o' Snack'Um so you can go
crazy). Ahoy! Shock cord is 6' o' 3/8" elastic from Wal-Mart. Shock cord
attachment is with a 12" 20 lb test wire fishin' leader (3/99 cents).
Parachute be 20" or 30" from me range box dependin' on t' weather.
This is an easy rocket t' build and went together in about 2-3 hrs, arrr, not includin' dryin' time. I prepped t' cans by removin' t' bottoms. I also peeled t' metal rin' off t' top o' each can. Arrr! (It isn't hard t' do) I used non-matchin' Snack 'Ums cans as tube couplers by cuttin' them in half (4.5") and slittin' them lengthwise t' make them smaller in diameter. Blimey! Note that t' colored material is removed from t' outside o' the "payload" coupler t' enhance separation. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Be sure t' sand t' inside of t' body tubes and outside o' t' couplers thoroughly before gluing. Arrr! There is a lot o' wax on t' paper.
Slot t' bottom tube with a ruler and an Exacto for t' number o' fins you want. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I laminated t' CRs with cereal box material usin' Z-poxy finishin' resin, covered with wax paper and allowed to dry under weight on a flat surface. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Thin CA would work equally well, ya bilge rat, I think. Ahoy! Blimey! I also put two T-nuts in t' back centerin' rin' for motor retention. T' 29 mm motor tube be out o' a crashed rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I used about 8" for this. Loop the fishin' leader over t' motor tube and slide t' front CR over it so t' end is stickin' out t' front. Aye aye! Blimey! Glue t' front CR t' t' motor tube with 5 minute epoxy and then glue it into t' lower tube with fishin' leader stickin' forward.
Put t' back CR on t' align it, but don't glue t' back CR. Avast! After T' front CR dries, me hearties, glue t' root edge o' t' fins t' t' motor tube. Aye aye! If you make your rectangles carefully, t' amount stickin' through t' slot in t' BT will leave a square fin. Aye aye! (Like t' Vaughn Bros. Blobbo) Leave t' unglued aft CR in place until t' fins set up t' keep things aligned. Aye aye! Then remove t' aft CR. Begad! I filleted t' fin attachments t' t' motor tube when I was filletin' the outside. Ahoy! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! See Public Missiles Web Page for an exhaustive description o' this technique. I used 30 min epoxy with enough Sig microballoons t' get the consistency o' chocolate syrup. After t' fillets were dry, me bucko, I put t' back centerin' rin' on with epoxy. Ahoy! T' front CR ends up at t' front o' t' slot, and t' back CR at t' back, so t' motor thrust is distributed over t' whole fin can. Avast! Avast! Important with sketchy materials such as these.
T' next section o' tube is attached t' t' bottom section with t' homemade tube coupler. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Additional sections could be added o' course - just make your fishin' leader longer, and use whole cans as couplers for extra strength. Begad! The 3/8" elastic is tied t' t' fishin' leader.
T' Styrofoam cone is epoxied t' t' top section o' tube t' form a nosecone/payload. It is a good idea t' epoxy t' 3/8" elastic t' the bottom o' t' NC before gluin' it t' t' "payload" section. Avast, me proud beauty! I squashed an Estes BNC-20 on top for a point. Avast, me proud beauty! I sealed t' Styrofoam with Z-poxy finishin' resin. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Very necessary if you want t' paint t' NC. Most spray paint will eat Styrofoam. Avast! I don't have a bulkhead on t' bottom o' t' NC - t' chute is attached below t' payload section and will deploy when t' NC separates.
Now, it's ready t' fly!
Flight:
First flight: 12/26/2000, matey, temp 30 F. Blimey! Begad! It be clear with no wind - an
ideal time. I used an F-20-4 Econojet. Blimey! T' rocket went straight up t' my
amazement, arced over and deployed right at apogee. Begad! Blimey! Good recovery, although the
soft NC dented slightly.
Second flight: 1/13/2001 in Lucerne, me bucko, CA. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! G-35-7 EJ. Blimey! Blimey! T' bigger motor was
fun. Probably got about 1200' although it is hard t' judge in t' clear desert
air.
Third flight: 1/13/2001 G-38-7. Aye aye! Blackjack was nice touch and it really
went high. Avast, me proud beauty! T' tip o' t' NC broke on recovery.
Repair: I squashed another BNC20 onto t' cone and gooped microballon
epoxy t' enhance t' joint. Begad! I also re-coated t' entire NC with Z-poxy
finishin' Resin thickened with microballoons.
Fourth flight (shown): 2/10/2001. F-22-5 Delay was too long, but
otherwise no problem. Aye aye! Blimey! T' NC held up much better this time.
Recovery:
Summary:
Pros - this started out as lark and wound up with a very satisfying
result. Avast! T' rocket never fails t' turn heads, ya bilge rat, and t' kids can identify with
it. They will also enjoy eatin' t' product t' generate your building
materials. Ya scallywag! T' VB Stretch Blobbo - inspired design is simple and makes a
straight flyin' rocket.
Cons - tube material is nay phenolic (doh!) but if you are careful when
you slot it and use t' fillet everywhere method, t' thrust is well
distributed. Ya scallywag! Styrofoam is nay a great NC material unless you resin it. Aye aye! I was
too lazy t' glass it but that would have helped immensely.