MiniToobo be t' result o' some nostalgic thinkin' combined with a few "what if" ideas. Aye aye! T' design is inspired by t' look o' t' old Centuri Groove Tube and t' positive stage-couplin' o' t' Centuri "pass-port" stagin' system. Begad! Arrr! For better economy and t' performance increase afforded by reduced cross-sectional area, MiniToobo uses 13mm mini engines. Arrr! (You might even call MiniToobo a tribute t' t' ill-fated A10-0T engines). 

To counteract t' rearward shift o' t' rocket's CG as stages are added, me bucko, the booster stages have progressively larger tube-fins. Fortunately, shiver me timbers, tube diameters for five-tube and four-tube clusters around a BT-5 tube just happen t' be close to t' diameters o' BT-20 and BT-55 tubes. Begad! T' result is a mildly larger first booster, and a wildly larger second booster. It also works out quite nicely that by balancin' t' sustainer for stable flight with an A10-3T engine, the two-stage and three-stage configurations remains stable when usin' a 1/2A10-4T for t' sustainer and A10-0T for booster(s). Begad!

Stage couplin' is quite solid since t' top o' each lower stage is squeezed between t' engine and tube-fins o' t' adjacent upper stage. Begad! Blimey! T' booster's are vented a la G. Avast! Harry Stine for improved air-start reliability. I usually insert a paper liner into t' boosters t' reduce scorchin' and increase t' boosters' useful lifetimes. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty!

MiniToobo is stable when flown in single-stage, two-stage, matey, or three-stage configurations. Ya scallywag! T' long profile o' t' sustainer combined with t' compact tube-fins results in straight, matey, arrr, high flights with little weathercockin' in fairly high winds. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Weathercockin' becomes more noticeable as stages are added. Begad!

Sustainer
length: 28cm (11")
calibre: 13.8mm (0.544")
engine mount: 13mm
weight: 9.6g
fins: six BT-5 tube cluster

Booster 1
length: 11cm (4.3")
calibre: 13.8mm (0.544")
engine mount: 13mm
weight: 7.4g
fins: five BT-20 tube cluster

Booster 2
length: 11cm (4.3")
calibre: 13.8mm (0.544")
engine mount: 13mm
weight: 16.6g
fins: four BT-55 tube cluster

3-Stage Configuration:
length: 47cm (18.5")
calibre: 13.8mm (0.544")
weight: 33.6g
recovery: sustainer:streamer booster:tumble

recommended engines:

single-stage (sustainer only):
1/2A3-2T, 1/2A3-4T, A3-4T, A10-3T

multi-stage:
sustainer: 1/2A3-4T boosters: A10-0T
 

Sustainer Parts List

1 - 210mm (8.25") o' BT-5 body tube
6 - 50mm (2") o' BT-5 body tube
1 - 50mm (2") o' 3mm (1/8") launch lug
1 - 13mm dia. Blimey! Avast! engine block (EB-5)
1 - Estes PN-5 nose cone (Quark-style)
1 - Crepe Streamer (40mm x 400mm)
1 - 3mm (1/8") x 540mm (21") elastic shock cord
1 - 180mm (7") o' Keelhaul®©™® twine

Booster 1 Parts List

1 - 95mm (3-3/4") o' BT-5 body tube
5 - 50mm (2") o' BT-20 body tube
1 - 13mm dia. engine block (EB-5)

Booster 2 Parts List

1 - 95mm (3-3/4") o' BT-5 body tube
4 - 50mm (2") o' BT-55 body tube
1 - 13mm dia. Well, blow me down! engine block (EB-5)
1 - 87mm x 19mm strip o' kraft paper or maskin' tape
1 - engine clip for 13mm mini engine

Use this link for plan views o' MiniToobo. Ahoy! They will pop up in another window. Begad! MiniToobo Plan Views

NOTE: Except where noted, use yellow or white glue when gluein' pieces together.

1.1 Tie one end o' t' Keelhaul®©™® twine t' one end o' t' elastic shock cord. Well, blow me down!

1.2 Tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™® twine t' an EB-5 engine block. Well, blow me down!

1.3 Glue t' engine block o' step 1.2 into t' 210mm BT-5 body tube usin' an exhausted mini-engine casing. Avast! Position t' engine block so thar is about 13mm o' casin' extendin' out o' t' bottom o' t' body tube. Well, blow me down! Withdraw the engine casin' immediately. Dangle t' shock cord out o' t' top o' t' tube. Avast! Begad!

1.4 Glue two 50mm BT-5 tubes together, me hearties, side by side with tube ends even with one-another. Aye aye! Begad! Repeat with t' other two pairs o' 50mm tubes. Avast! Let the glue dry before proceedin' t' t' next step. Ya scallywag!

I recommend usin' white glue for this step, since yellow glue may deform the tubes slightly as t' glue dries and shrinks. Begad! Blimey!

1.5 Glue one o' t' tube-pairs o' step 1.4 t' t' bottom o' t' 210mm tube with 13mm o' t' tube pair extendin' past t' bottom o' t' 210mm tube. Aye aye! Aye aye!

Glue another o' t' tube-pairs t' t' assembly o' step 1.4, alongside and even with t' attached tube-pair. Begad!

Glue t' third tube-pair t' t' assembly o' step 1.4, ya bilge rat, alongside and even with t' attached tube-pairs. Blimey!

Let t' glue dry thoroughly. Begad! Blimey!

1.6 Attach t' streamer t' t' shock cord, about 180mm from the cord's free end. T' streamer can be attached either by tiein' t' shock cord to one end o' t' streamer, ya bilge rat, arrr, or by tapin' t' streamer t' t' shock cord with Scotch Magic Tape or a pieces o' adhesive-backed paper. Begad! Ahoy!

1.7 Mark t' 210mm BT-5 tube 88mm from t' top o' t' tube. Well, blow me down! Begad! This mark is where t' center o' gravity o' t' sustainer should be without an installed engine.

Roll up t' streamer and slide t' streamer and shock cord into t' top of the 210mm tube. Ahoy! Begad!

Pack a ball o' modellin' clay, about 6mm (1/4") in diameter, into the nose cone. Slide t' nose cone into t' top o' t' 210mm tube and try to balance t' assembly on t' 88mm mark. Well, blow me down! Begad! Add or remove clay t' t' nose cone until t' rocket balances horizontally or is just slightly nose-heavy. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty!

A handy way t' check balance is by tiein' a strin' around t' body tube and tapin' t' strin' at t' balance point. Blimey! Blimey! Balance can then be checked by simply danglin' t' rocket from t' string. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

1.8 With plastic cement, arrr, glue t' nose cone's end cap t' t' base of the nose cone. Let this assembly dry.

1.9 Tie t' free end o' t' shock cord t' t' nose cone end cap.

2.1 Make a 5mm diameter hole centered 21mm from one end o' t' 95mm BT-5 tube. Make another 5mm diameter hole one t' opposite wall o' t' tube, centered 21mm from t' same end o' t' tube. Ahoy! Arrr!

To strengthen t' material around these holes, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, apply a coat o' CA t' the inside o' t' tube around t' holes. Avast!

Further instructions refer t' t' end closest t' these holes as the "top" end. Begad! T' opposite end be t' "bottom" end.

2.2 Glue an engine block into t' bottom o' t' 95mm tube usin' an exhausted mini-engine casing. Ahoy! Position t' engine block so that thar be 6mm of casin' extendin' out o' t' bottom o' t' body tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Withdraw t' engine casing immediately. Blimey! Ahoy!

2.3 Glue two 50mm BT-20 tubes together, side-by-side with t' tube ends even with one-another. Repeat for another pair o' BT-20 tubes. Let the glue dry completely before proceedin' t' t' next step.

I recommend usin' white glue for this step, since yellow glue may deform the tubes slightly as t' glue dries and shrinks.

2.4 Glue a BT-20 tube-pair from step 2.3 onto t' bottom o' t' 95mm BT-5 tube with t' bottom edge o' t' tube pair extendin' 13mm from t' bottom end o' t' 95mm tube. Begad! Well, blow me down! Blimey!

Before t' glue has set, glue another BT-20 tube-pair t' 95mm tube, alongside and even with t' mounted tube-pair. Blimey! Well, me bucko, blow me down!

Before t' glue has set, glue t' remainin' 50mm BT-20 tube t' t' 95mm BT-5 tube and attached tube-pairs, with t' ends o' t' 50mm tube even with t' ends of t' tube-pairs.

There will be a gap betwixt BT-20 tubes. Begad! Well, me hearties, blow me down! T' gap is filled by applying pressure t' t' cluster o' BT-20 tubes squash t' tubes slightly. This is done by wrappin' maskin' tape, shiver me timbers, me hearties, sticky-side outward, around t' middle o' t' cluster while applyin' sufficient tension on t' maskin' tape t' close t' gap between tubes, ya bilge rat, arrr, while nay providin' enough tension t' separate t' BT-20 tubes from the 95mm tube. Avast! Blimey! Ensure that all o' t' tube pairs are even with one-another.

Let t' assembly dry fully. Avast!

2.5 Remove t' maskin' tape applied in step 2.4.

3.1 Make a 5mm diameter hole centered 21mm from one end o' t' 95mm BT-5 tube. Begad! Avast! Make another 5mm diameter hole one the opposite wall o' t' tube, me hearties, arrr, matey, centered 21mm from t' same end o' t' tube.

To strengthen t' material around these holes, apply a coat o' CA t' the inside o' t' tube around t' holes. Ahoy! Blimey!

Further instructions refer t' t' end closest t' these holes as the "top" end. Well, blow me down! T' opposite end is referred-to as t' "bottom" end.

3.2 Glue t' remainin' engine block into t' bottom o' t' 95mm BT-5 tube usin' an exhausted mini-engine casing. Avast! Position t' engine block so that there is 13mm o' casin' extendin' out o' t' bottom o' t' body tube. Begad! Withdraw the engine casin' immediately. Begad!

3.3 Cut a 3mm-wide slit widthwise across t' 95mm tube, 32mm from the bottom end o' t' tube. Blimey!

3.4 If t' engine clip is a fancy one with a fingertip extension, remove t' extension so that t' clip is simply "L"-shaped at either end. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey!

Run a 20mm-long bead o' glue from t' slit toward t' bottom end o' the 100mm tube. Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! Insert t' engine clip into t' slit in t' 95mm tube. Ya scallywag! Secure the engine clip t' t' body tube by wrappin' two layers o' maskin' tape or glued layers o' a 6mm (1/4") strip o' Kraft paper around t' tube and engine clip. Be sure t' leave 20mm o' engine clip free toward t' bottom end o' the tube.

3.5 Glue two 50mm BT-55 tubes together, side-by-side with t' tube ends even with one-another. Begad! Repeat for t' other pair o' BT-55 tubes. Aye aye! Aye aye! Let the glue dry completely before proceedin' t' t' next step. Well, blow me down!

3.6 Glue a BT-55 tube-pair o' step 3.5 onto t' 95mm BT-5 tube, with the joint o' t' tube-pair centered over t' engine clip and with t' bottom edge o' t' tube pair even with t' bottom o' t' engine clip. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

Before t' glue has set, glue another BT-55 tube-pair t' t' assembly, with the ends o' t' tube-pairs even with one-another. Avast, me proud beauty!

Let t' assembly dry fully.

Single-Stage:
Wrap pieces o' tape around t' middle o' t' engine until it fits tightly into the sustainer so that it doesn't kick itself out when it emits its ejection charge.

Two-Stage:
Prepare t' sustainer t' same as for a single-stage flight, and make sure there is no tape on t' part o' t' engine from t' nozzle end t' 13mm from that end. Begad! This part is where booster 1 will couple with t' sustainer. Well, blow me down!

Wrap tape around t' booster 1 engine until it fits tightly into booster 1. Arrr!

Insert a rolled piece o' paper, matey, with holes punched out for t' booster vent holes, ya bilge rat, and slide it into t' top part o' booster 1. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Align t' vent holes o' the paper insert with t' booster's vent holes. This will reduce charrin' from the sustainer's engine. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey!

Slide booster 1 onto t' sustainer's engine. Begad! T' fit should be tight enough so that you can lift t' rocket upside-down by t' booster without the sustainer fallin' out. Well, blow me down! However, ya bilge rat, t' fit should nay be much tighter than that. T' fit can be loosened by wigglin' t' booster around while it is coupled to the sustainer. Aye aye! If this doesn't help, sand t' tube-fins o' t' sustainer where the booster body tube touches them t' remove any crud and t' thin t' tube-fins a bit. Blimey!

Three-Stage:
Prepare and assemble t' sustainer and booster 1 t' same as for a two-stage flight, and make sure thar be no tape on t' part o' t' booster 1 engine from the nozzle end t' 13mm from that end. Aye aye! This part is where booster 2 will couple with t' booster 1.

Insert a rolled piece o' paper, ya bilge rat, with holes punched out for t' booster vent holes, and slide it into t' top part o' booster 2. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Align t' vent holes o' the paper insert with t' booster's vent holes. Avast! This will reduce charrin' from booster 1's engine. Ya scallywag!

Slide booster 2 onto booster 1's engine. Ya scallywag! T' fit should be tight enough so that you can lift t' rocket upside-down by booster 2 without t' stages fallin' out. Begad! However, t' fit should nay be much tighter than that. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' fit can be loosened by wigglin' booster 2 around while it is coupled t' t' booster 1. If this doesn't help, sand t' tube-fins o' booster 1 where t' booster 2 body tube touches them t' remove any crud and t' thin t' tube-fins a bit.

Session 1
Date: Monday, October 11, shiver me timbers, 1999 Time: 1:00pm CST
Location: Lakeview Park, Saskatoon, ya bilge rat, Saskatchewan, Canada
Temperature: 5 degrees Celsius (40 degrees Fahrenheit)
Wind: 30 km/h (20 mph)

Note: All distance are eyeball estimates

I prepared t' Minitoobo sustainer with a A10-3T engine. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' rocket lept straight up, ya bilge rat, about 250 metres, me bucko, matey, without weathercockin' noticeably. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! When the streamer deployed, me bucko, t' wind blew t' rocket westward pretty quickly. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! T' rocket and landed about 100 metres west o' t' launch pad with no damage. Begad! Blimey! With a 30mm x 300mm crepe streamer, ya bilge rat, t' rocket descended a bit too smartly and was nay very visible. Avast, me proud beauty! Next time, I'll try a 40mm x 400mm streamer. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

Session 2
Date: Sunday, October 17, 1999
Time: 9:00am CST
Location: Diefenbaker Park, shiver me timbers, arrr, Saskatoon, ya bilge rat, Saskatchewan, me bucko, Canada
Temperature: 3.4 degrees Celsius (38 degrees Fahrenheit)

Note: All distance are eyeball estimates

I prepared all three stages for flight, ya bilge rat, with A10-0T engines in both boosters and a 1/2A3-4T in t' sustainer. Ahoy! Aye aye! T' rocket flew up about 60 metres, weathercockin' toward t' south, matey, thar was a slight pause, then booster 1 ignited and booster 2 was ejected. Well, blow me down! Booster 2 tumbled down and landed about 5 metres north o' t' launch pad. Blimey! Ahoy! T' booster 1 and sustainer flew up t' about 250 metres, me hearties, arched t' t' south, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrr, and dived straight down, itself in t' ground 20 metres south o' t' launch pad. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty!

T' sustainer's body tube was ripped and accordianed at t' front end. However, a bit o' maskin' tape and some smoothin' o' t' body tube prepared the sustainer for further flights.

Upon examinin' t' engines o' both boosters and t' sustainer, me bucko, I found that both boosters had exhausted themselves, me hearties, but t' sustainer's engine was not ignited by booster 1's stagin' charge. Begad! T' sustainer engine's base was blackened, me bucko, so t' booster's stagin' charge must have activated. Begad!

So, me hearties, matey, t' determine whether t' stagin' engine was a dud, I pushed t' engine back into t' sustainer, me bucko, matey, prepped it, and launched it. Avast! T' engine ignited. Ahoy! The sustainer flew straight up about 90 metres, popped its streamer, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and landed 25 metres east o' t' launch pad (the wind was shifting) with no damage. T' 40mm x 400mm streamer be far more effective in slowin' descent and bein' visible than t' 30mm x 300mm streamer was.

I then prepared for a two-stage flight, with an A10-0T in booster 1 and a 1/2A3-4T in t' sustainer. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' rocket flew straight up about 120 metres, ya bilge rat, the sustainer ignited and ejected booster 1, which tumbled t' earth about 10 metres northeast o' t' launch pad. T' sustainer flew up about 350 metres, me bucko, popped its streamer, and descended t' land about 30 metres east o' t' launch pad. Avast! Avast! This was a very pretty, me bucko, impressive flight. Ahoy!

I then prepared for a three-stage flight again, shiver me timbers, with t' same configuration as t' first flight o' t' day. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rocket flew straight up about 60 metres, then booster 1 was ignited and booster 2 was ejected. Begad! Booster 2 tumbled and landed about 5 metres northeast o' t' launch pad. Well, blow me down! T' rocket flew up t' about 190 metres when t' sustainer was ignited and booster 1 was ejected. Ya scallywag! Booster 1 tumbled and landed about 20 metres east o' t' launchpad. T' sustainer flew up out o' site and be invisible until it deployed its streamer. Aye aye! T' sustainer finally landed about 60 metres east o' t' launch pad.