(Contributed- by Dick Stafford - 10/06/04)

Brief:
October 4th, 2004, heralded a new era in space exploration. Avast, me proud beauty! On that day, Brian Binnie piloted Scaled Composite's SpaceShipOne t' 367,442 feet (112 kilometers), capturin' t' $10M Ansari X Prize. Begad! Later that day, I learned o' Currell Graphics' SS1 paper model and immediately wanted t' convert one for flight.

Currell offers two versions: t' original version and t' X1 version that made t' two historic X Prize flights. Blimey! I chose t' latter. Begad! Blimey! Prior t' buildin' t' model, ya bilge rat, I opted t' convert it for MicroMaxx motors. Ahoy! Arrr! As you will read, me hearties, this model is a bit too big t' be a great flier on these small motors but shows promise for a 13mm conversion.

Modifications:
T' instructions for t' SS1 are five pages long and include a bit o' history, some narrative, and an excellent set o' illustrated directions. Avast! Begad! This is one o' t' most complex paper models that I have ever built. Aye aye! It includes over 85 parts, matey, many o' which are quite tiny. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Bein' that I am nay a stickler for detail, nay t' mention "all thumbs", thar were around 30 parts that I didn't use. Arrr! Many o' these were for t' "gear down" option.

T' most important tool required is a new hobby blade. Aye aye! I also used a cuttin' mat, scissors, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, arrr, a couple o' toothpicks, arrr, and some small clamps. I built it mostly with white glue but used Perfect Glue t' tack down t' Keelhaul®©™® twine and attach t' plastic lug.

I will emphasize how I modified this model for flight. Begad! Blimey! T' instructions are freely available and are very good. Aye aye! Blimey! I will reference t' steps as I go and will identify specific parts as required.

Nosecone (a.k.a. Arrr! Blimey! front fuselage) - This section spans two steps and requires around 14 parts. Blimey! It is comprised o' several cones/transitions with center bulkheads, which come in pairs. Begad! Blimey! Since I thought I would eventually need nose weight, I filled t' small tip with clay. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I cut holes in t' bulkheads A9--A12 t' accommodate t' 6mm tube. I also replaced t' smallest bulkheads, me bucko, A7 and A8, with a 6mm--10.5mm fiber centerin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I could have cut these bulkheads, but they are tiny. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! A 1.75" piece o' 6mm tube extends from t' clay t' just past t' last transition. Begad! You need t' make sure it doesn't stick out too far lest it interfere with t' bulkhead in t' next section. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I inserted a piece o' T2 tubin' (which telescopes into t' T2+) t' form a shoulder. Blimey! Blimey! This be nay glued in. Ahoy! T' nosecone assembly can be seen in t' first photo.

Body (mid- and tail sections) - This section consists o' more paper transitions and bulkheads. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It spans steps 3, 5, ya bilge rat, 9, ya bilge rat, and 19 and consists o' around 15 parts. Avast, me proud beauty! Steps 4, matey, me bucko, 6, 7, and 8 are all related t' t' landin' gear option and I didn't need these for a flyin' model. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! As you can see, me hearties, I also jumped ahead in t' instructions t' complete t' body in one stretch. Avast! Aye aye! Blimey! T' first photo also shows t' partially completed body section.

Again, I cut holes in all t' bulkheads. T' motor tube extends from t' nozzle t' just above t' top bulkhead. Aye aye! Blimey! I cut this tube t' fit by installin' t' nose and pushin' t' lower tube up until it seated on t' nose assembly's shoulder (the T2 tube). Well, blow me down! Blimey! I then marked its location and glued it in. When installed, arrr, t' nose assembly seats against t' glue tabs that extend out o' t' mid-body. I had anticipated removin' these tabs and addin' solid neck, but this wasn't required.

Main wings - These wings each consist o' eight components and their construction//installation spans four steps. Avast! Ahoy! All t' wings on this model are constructed usin' ribs/spars and outer shells so they are reasonably complex. Begad! T' subtle angles and bends on these components are truly impressive. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Be wary o' too usin' too much glue, shiver me timbers, as it will warp t' small pieces quite badly (not a theoretical observation). Avast, me proud beauty! I had trouble gettin' all t' small components together nicely, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and even ended up leavin' t' thin trailin' edge strip off. I'm sure many o' you can and will do better.

T' wings slide onto two spars that you previously install through t' body o' t' SS1. Begad! When buildin' t' wings, make sure t' holes for t' spars are aligned and are big enough! No theory here either.

Side booms (the vertical wings that extend toward t' aft o' t' bird) - These have 7 parts each, cover three steps, and are both smaller and more tricky t' assemble than t' main wings. They are built-up from 2 spars, shiver me timbers, 2 inner surfaces, ya bilge rat, and 2 outer wraps. Begad! Blimey! One o' t' spars is 7 ½" long, has 16 bends, matey, and circles t' edge o' t' win' assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! My side booms came out pretty rough. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! They attach t' t' aft half o' t' main wings and a small printed component covers t' front half.

Stabilizers - These are a lot simpler than their bigger cousins are. They consist o' 4 pieces and are installed in 2 steps. Ahoy! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Even I got them right.

Finishin' touches - T' last 2 steps o' t' instructions is detailin' that I left off. Begad! Blimey! All I had left t' do was t' attach t' lug (piece o' a pen's ink tube) t' t' underside o' t' wing, ya bilge rat, install t' Keelhaul®©™® twine, and add nose weight. Ahoy! Curiously, arrr, t' "finishin' touches" didn't require any finishin' since t' model is pre-printed. Ya scallywag! I didn't even shoot on a clear coat t' protect t' ink, shiver me timbers, matey, although this is a good idea if you will fly in damp conditions.

Stability - Micromeister (from TRF and t' MicroMaxRockets Yahoo group) graciously provided t' CG for his successful MMX SS1 (plans are available on t' Yahoo group). I scaled that CG (1.09375") t' this larger model (64.8mm), ya bilge rat, and headed t' t' Rocket Dungeon^TM t' install nose weight. Blimey! After addin' ~4g o' shot, t' total vehicle weight was 18g and I had only moved t' CG about half t' distance I needed to. Ya scallywag! As this was pushin' t' max weight for a MMX-II motor, matey, arrr, I decided t' give it a try as is.

Construction:
Items needed:

• 3 sheets o' white cardstock
• ~6" o' Totally Tubular T-2+ tubing
• ~1" o' Totally Tubular T-2 tubing
• 1 6mm--10.5mm centerin' ring
• Clay and lead shot
• Piece o' a BiC pen ink tube
• Keelhaul®©™twine

Flight:
I flew it three times and each profile be about t' same: slow boost, arcin' flight, ejection just before "landing". Avast, me proud beauty! Apogee was estimated t' be 10', 6' and 10', respectively. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! On t' last flight, t' Keelhaul®©™® broke free from t' body, which was easily repairable. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Note that I do nay endorse me positionin' o' t' CG. Begad! This model could very well have been unstable had t' flight been higher and longer in duration.

Summary:
This is a very detailed and small model. Well, blow me down! Despite excellent instructions, matey, I found it difficult t' build. You definitely need a sharp knife, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, good light, arrr, a steady hand, me bucko, and patience.

T' flight conversion was straightforward, ya bilge rat, but t' model, me hearties, once properly balanced, is too heavy t' be a great candidate for MMX. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I offer these suggestions based on me experience:

1. Add t' lead shot at t' very tip. I had filled it with clay. Begad! I managed t' remove some, me hearties, but still had most o' t' weight a bit further aft.
2. Look at reducin' weight while keepin' t' basic paper kit.
3. Consider a 13mm conversion (this will have its own challenges). Ahoy! T' paper kit is tough enough for MMX but more reinforcement may be needed on t' booms t' handle t' increased thrust.