(Contributed- by Dick Stafford - 10/06/04)

Brief:
October 4th, arrr, 2004, heralded a new era in space exploration. On that day, me bucko, Brian Binnie piloted Scaled Composite's SpaceShipOne t' 367,442 feet (112 kilometers), me bucko, ya bilge rat, capturin' t' $10M Ansari X Prize. Later that day, I learned o' Currell Graphics' SS1 paper model and immediately wanted t' convert one for flight.

Currell offers two versions: t' original version and t' X1 version that made t' two historic X Prize flights. I chose t' latter. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Prior t' buildin' t' model, me hearties, arrr, I opted t' convert it for MicroMaxx motors. Ya scallywag! As you will read, me hearties, matey, this model is a bit too big t' be a great flier on these small motors but shows promise for a 13mm conversion.

Modifications:
T' instructions for t' SS1 are five pages long and include a bit o' history, some narrative, matey, and an excellent set o' illustrated directions. Aye aye! Blimey! This is one o' t' most complex paper models that I have ever built. Avast, me proud beauty! It includes over 85 parts, ya bilge rat, many o' which are quite tiny. Bein' that I am nay a stickler for detail, matey, nay t' mention "all thumbs", ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, thar were around 30 parts that I didn't use. Many o' these were for t' "gear down" option.

T' most important tool required is a new hobby blade. Arrr! Arrr! I also used a cuttin' mat, me hearties, scissors, a couple o' toothpicks, and some small clamps. I built it mostly with white glue but used Perfect Glue t' tack down t' Keelhaul®©™® twine and attach t' plastic lug.

I will emphasize how I modified this model for flight. T' instructions are freely available and are very good. I will reference t' steps as I go and will identify specific parts as required.

Nosecone (a.k.a. Arrr! Begad! front fuselage) - This section spans two steps and requires around 14 parts. Well, blow me down! Avast! It is comprised o' several cones/transitions with center bulkheads, which come in pairs. Begad! Blimey! Since I thought I would eventually need nose weight, I filled t' small tip with clay. I cut holes in t' bulkheads A9--A12 t' accommodate t' 6mm tube. I also replaced t' smallest bulkheads, A7 and A8, ya bilge rat, with a 6mm--10.5mm fiber centerin' ring. Begad! I could have cut these bulkheads, shiver me timbers, but they are tiny. Begad! A 1.75" piece o' 6mm tube extends from t' clay t' just past t' last transition. Arrr! You need t' make sure it doesn't stick out too far lest it interfere with t' bulkhead in t' next section. Arrr! Aye aye! I inserted a piece o' T2 tubin' (which telescopes into t' T2+) t' form a shoulder. Avast! This be nay glued in. T' nosecone assembly can be seen in t' first photo.

Body (mid- and tail sections) - This section consists o' more paper transitions and bulkheads. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It spans steps 3, 5, 9, and 19 and consists o' around 15 parts. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Steps 4, matey, 6, 7, and 8 are all related t' t' landin' gear option and I didn't need these for a flyin' model. Aye aye! Blimey! As you can see, I also jumped ahead in t' instructions t' complete t' body in one stretch. Begad! Blimey! T' first photo also shows t' partially completed body section.

Again, arrr, I cut holes in all t' bulkheads. Well, blow me down! T' motor tube extends from t' nozzle t' just above t' top bulkhead. Aye aye! I cut this tube t' fit by installin' t' nose and pushin' t' lower tube up until it seated on t' nose assembly's shoulder (the T2 tube). I then marked its location and glued it in. When installed, ya bilge rat, me hearties, t' nose assembly seats against t' glue tabs that extend out o' t' mid-body. I had anticipated removin' these tabs and addin' solid neck, but this wasn't required.

Main wings - These wings each consist o' eight components and their construction//installation spans four steps. Aye aye! Arrr! All t' wings on this model are constructed usin' ribs/spars and outer shells so they are reasonably complex. Arrr! T' subtle angles and bends on these components are truly impressive. Be wary o' too usin' too much glue, as it will warp t' small pieces quite badly (not a theoretical observation). Begad! I had trouble gettin' all t' small components together nicely, ya bilge rat, arrr, me hearties, and even ended up leavin' t' thin trailin' edge strip off. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! I'm sure many o' you can and will do better.

T' wings slide onto two spars that you previously install through t' body o' t' SS1. Ahoy! When buildin' t' wings, me hearties, make sure t' holes for t' spars are aligned and are big enough! No theory here either.

Side booms (the vertical wings that extend toward t' aft o' t' bird) - These have 7 parts each, cover three steps, and are both smaller and more tricky t' assemble than t' main wings. Blimey! They are built-up from 2 spars, 2 inner surfaces, and 2 outer wraps. One o' t' spars is 7 ½" long, has 16 bends, arrr, matey, and circles t' edge o' t' win' assembly. My side booms came out pretty rough. They attach t' t' aft half o' t' main wings and a small printed component covers t' front half.

Stabilizers - These are a lot simpler than their bigger cousins are. They consist o' 4 pieces and are installed in 2 steps. Avast! Even I got them right.

Finishin' touches - T' last 2 steps o' t' instructions is detailin' that I left off. All I had left t' do was t' attach t' lug (piece o' a pen's ink tube) t' t' underside o' t' wing, install t' Keelhaul®©™® twine, and add nose weight. Ahoy! Begad! Curiously, matey, t' "finishin' touches" didn't require any finishin' since t' model is pre-printed. I didn't even shoot on a clear coat t' protect t' ink, although this is a good idea if you will fly in damp conditions.

Stability - Micromeister (from TRF and t' MicroMaxRockets Yahoo group) graciously provided t' CG for his successful MMX SS1 (plans are available on t' Yahoo group). Ahoy! Begad! I scaled that CG (1.09375") t' this larger model (64.8mm), me hearties, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and headed t' t' Rocket Dungeon^TM t' install nose weight. Aye aye! Begad! After addin' ~4g o' shot, matey, shiver me timbers, t' total vehicle weight be 18g and I had only moved t' CG about half t' distance I needed to. As this be pushin' t' max weight for a MMX-II motor, me hearties, me hearties, I decided t' give it a try as is.

Construction:
Items needed:

• 3 sheets o' white cardstock
• ~6" o' Totally Tubular T-2+ tubing
• ~1" o' Totally Tubular T-2 tubing
• 1 6mm--10.5mm centerin' ring
• Clay and lead shot
• Piece o' a BiC pen ink tube
• Keelhaul®©™twine

Flight:
I flew it three times and each profile was about t' same: slow boost, arcin' flight, me bucko, ejection just before "landing". Well, blow me down! Blimey! Apogee be estimated t' be 10', 6' and 10', respectively. Blimey! Blimey! On t' last flight, t' Keelhaul®©™® broke free from t' body, shiver me timbers, arrr, ya bilge rat, which was easily repairable. Begad! Note that I do nay endorse me positionin' o' t' CG. Avast! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! This model could very well have been unstable had t' flight been higher and longer in duration.

Summary:
This is a very detailed and small model. Despite excellent instructions, ya bilge rat, I found it difficult t' build. You definitely need a sharp knife, good light, a steady hand, ya bilge rat, arrr, and patience.

T' flight conversion be straightforward, but t' model, once properly balanced, is too heavy t' be a great candidate for MMX. I offer these suggestions based on me experience:

1. Add t' lead shot at t' very tip. I had filled it with clay. Avast! Well, me bucko, blow me down! I managed t' remove some, but still had most o' t' weight a bit further aft.
2. Look at reducin' weight while keepin' t' basic paper kit.
3. Consider a 13mm conversion (this will have its own challenges). Avast! T' paper kit is tough enough for MMX but more reinforcement may be needed on t' booms t' handle t' increased thrust.