(Contributed- by Dick Stafford - 10/06/04)

Brief:
October 4th, 2004, heralded a new era in space exploration. Begad! Avast! On that day, Brian Binnie piloted Scaled Composite's SpaceShipOne t' 367,442 feet (112 kilometers), capturin' t' $10M Ansari X Prize. Well, blow me down! Later that day, shiver me timbers, I learned o' Currell Graphics' SS1 paper model and immediately wanted t' convert one for flight.

Currell offers two versions: t' original version and t' X1 version that made t' two historic X Prize flights. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! I chose t' latter. Blimey! Begad! Prior t' buildin' t' model, me hearties, I opted t' convert it for MicroMaxx motors. Blimey! Ya scallywag! As you will read, ya bilge rat, this model is a bit too big t' be a great flier on these small motors but shows promise for a 13mm conversion.

Modifications:
T' instructions for t' SS1 are five pages long and include a bit o' history, me bucko, matey, some narrative, and an excellent set o' illustrated directions. Ya scallywag! This is one o' t' most complex paper models that I have ever built. Aye aye! Begad! It includes over 85 parts, me bucko, many o' which are quite tiny. Ya scallywag! Bein' that I am nay a stickler for detail, nay t' mention "all thumbs", ya bilge rat, thar were around 30 parts that I didn't use. Aye aye! Many o' these were for t' "gear down" option.

T' most important tool required is a new hobby blade. I also used a cuttin' mat, scissors, matey, a couple o' toothpicks, and some small clamps. Blimey! I built it mostly with white glue but used Perfect Glue t' tack down t' Keelhaul®©™® twine and attach t' plastic lug.

I will emphasize how I modified this model for flight. Arrr! T' instructions are freely available and are very good. Begad! I will reference t' steps as I go and will identify specific parts as required.

Nosecone (a.k.a. Begad! front fuselage) - This section spans two steps and requires around 14 parts. Well, arrr, blow me down! It is comprised o' several cones/transitions with center bulkheads, shiver me timbers, me bucko, me bucko, which come in pairs. Ahoy! Since I thought I would eventually need nose weight, ya bilge rat, I filled t' small tip with clay. Begad! Ya scallywag! I cut holes in t' bulkheads A9--A12 t' accommodate t' 6mm tube. Well, blow me down! I also replaced t' smallest bulkheads, ya bilge rat, A7 and A8, matey, with a 6mm--10.5mm fiber centerin' ring. Begad! I could have cut these bulkheads, but they are tiny. A 1.75" piece o' 6mm tube extends from t' clay t' just past t' last transition. You need t' make sure it doesn't stick out too far lest it interfere with t' bulkhead in t' next section. I inserted a piece o' T2 tubin' (which telescopes into t' T2+) t' form a shoulder. Ya scallywag! This was nay glued in. Aye aye! T' nosecone assembly can be seen in t' first photo.

Body (mid- and tail sections) - This section consists o' more paper transitions and bulkheads. Blimey! Begad! It spans steps 3, 5, 9, ya bilge rat, and 19 and consists o' around 15 parts. Begad! Ya scallywag! Steps 4, 6, 7, matey, and 8 are all related t' t' landin' gear option and I didn't need these for a flyin' model. Begad! As you can see, shiver me timbers, I also jumped ahead in t' instructions t' complete t' body in one stretch. T' first photo also shows t' partially completed body section.

Again, I cut holes in all t' bulkheads. Begad! Begad! T' motor tube extends from t' nozzle t' just above t' top bulkhead. Arrr! I cut this tube t' fit by installin' t' nose and pushin' t' lower tube up until it seated on t' nose assembly's shoulder (the T2 tube). Aye aye! I then marked its location and glued it in. Blimey! Aye aye! When installed, matey, me bucko, t' nose assembly seats against t' glue tabs that extend out o' t' mid-body. Ahoy! Blimey! I had anticipated removin' these tabs and addin' solid neck, but this wasn't required.

Main wings - These wings each consist o' eight components and their construction//installation spans four steps. Arrr! All t' wings on this model are constructed usin' ribs/spars and outer shells so they are reasonably complex. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! T' subtle angles and bends on these components are truly impressive. Arrr! Be wary o' too usin' too much glue, shiver me timbers, as it will warp t' small pieces quite badly (not a theoretical observation). Begad! I had trouble gettin' all t' small components together nicely, arrr, matey, and even ended up leavin' t' thin trailin' edge strip off. I'm sure many o' you can and will do better.

T' wings slide onto two spars that you previously install through t' body o' t' SS1. When buildin' t' wings, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, make sure t' holes for t' spars are aligned and are big enough! No theory here either.

Side booms (the vertical wings that extend toward t' aft o' t' bird) - These have 7 parts each, cover three steps, shiver me timbers, and are both smaller and more tricky t' assemble than t' main wings. Begad! Avast! They are built-up from 2 spars, 2 inner surfaces, ya bilge rat, and 2 outer wraps. Blimey! Ya scallywag! One o' t' spars is 7 ½" long, arrr, arrr, has 16 bends, and circles t' edge o' t' win' assembly. Blimey! Ya scallywag! My side booms came out pretty rough. Ya scallywag! They attach t' t' aft half o' t' main wings and a small printed component covers t' front half.

Stabilizers - These are a lot simpler than their bigger cousins are. Avast, me proud beauty! They consist o' 4 pieces and are installed in 2 steps. Arrr! Even I got them right.

Finishin' touches - T' last 2 steps o' t' instructions is detailin' that I left off. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! All I had left t' do was t' attach t' lug (piece o' a pen's ink tube) t' t' underside o' t' wing, install t' Keelhaul®©™® twine, matey, arrr, and add nose weight. Ya scallywag! Curiously, me hearties, t' "finishin' touches" didn't require any finishin' since t' model is pre-printed. Avast! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! I didn't even shoot on a clear coat t' protect t' ink, although this is a good idea if you will fly in damp conditions.

Stability - Micromeister (from TRF and t' MicroMaxRockets Yahoo group) graciously provided t' CG for his successful MMX SS1 (plans are available on t' Yahoo group). Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! I scaled that CG (1.09375") t' this larger model (64.8mm), and headed t' t' Rocket Dungeon^TM t' install nose weight. Blimey! Blimey! After addin' ~4g o' shot, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' total vehicle weight was 18g and I had only moved t' CG about half t' distance I needed to. Begad! Blimey! As this was pushin' t' max weight for a MMX-II motor, shiver me timbers, I decided t' give it a try as is.

Construction:
Items needed:

• 3 sheets o' white cardstock
• ~6" o' Totally Tubular T-2+ tubing
• ~1" o' Totally Tubular T-2 tubing
• 1 6mm--10.5mm centerin' ring
• Clay and lead shot
• Piece o' a BiC pen ink tube
• Keelhaul®©™twine

Flight:
I flew it three times and each profile be about t' same: slow boost, arcin' flight, ejection just before "landing". Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Apogee was estimated t' be 10', 6' and 10', respectively. On t' last flight, t' Keelhaul®©™® broke free from t' body, ya bilge rat, which was easily repairable. Ahoy! Note that I do nay endorse me positionin' o' t' CG. Well, blow me down! Begad! This model could very well have been unstable had t' flight been higher and longer in duration.

Summary:
This is a very detailed and small model. Despite excellent instructions, I found it difficult t' build. You definitely need a sharp knife, arrr, good light, arrr, a steady hand, me hearties, and patience.

T' flight conversion be straightforward, but t' model, once properly balanced, arrr, me bucko, me bucko, is too heavy t' be a great candidate for MMX. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! I offer these suggestions based on me experience:

1. Add t' lead shot at t' very tip. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I had filled it with clay. Well, blow me down! I managed t' remove some, matey, but still had most o' t' weight a bit further aft.
2. Look at reducin' weight while keepin' t' basic paper kit.
3. Consider a 13mm conversion (this will have its own challenges). T' paper kit is tough enough for MMX but more reinforcement may be needed on t' booms t' handle t' increased thrust.