Descon 7 Tintinique Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Tintinique {Scratch}

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Scratch
tintinique

Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, matey, ya bilge rat, far too squat and stubby, me hearties, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Ahoy! Arrr! Just As diamonique isn't diamond, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Begad! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, ya bilge rat, needs t' watch more QVC!)

time capsule

Nestlé time capsule

time capsule forward view

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, me hearties, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Begad! Amongst t' rockets thar was somethin' very different. Blimey! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! It was great. How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, ya bilge rat, and dig it up in t' future. Well, blow me down! Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). Arrr! For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, t' capsule itself, ya bilge rat, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Better still, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Whoever it was I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Avast, me proud beauty! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, t' other for spare.

Anyway, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Ahoy! I've got t' build this thing. I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Begad! Time passes. Ya scallywag! DesCon6 begins. Time passes. Begad! Blimey! DesCon6 finishes. Aye aye! UKRA 2000 approaches, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, isn't goin' t' be ready. I dig out t' time capsule. Avast! Blimey! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, arrr, and Explorers on t' Moon. Avast! Arrr! Blimey! I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, and start t' think about t' body instead. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Time capsules are cheaply moulded, thick in some places thin in others, arrr, and very flexible. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I had decided that it was t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, shiver me timbers, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It needs an internal body tube, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Aye aye! Blimey! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, me bucko, and this seemed ideal. Ahoy! Blimey! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, or even quantum tubing, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, me bucko, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. Arrr! Blimey! T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule was larger than 3", so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, and glued it in place, under t' shoulder. Begad! Begad! T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

sketches

T' preliminary sketches

rocksim plan
 
fin pod plan

View full size

Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, so I draw some rough sketches, matey, matey, then some rough, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, dimensioned sketches. My son, James, draws some sketches. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. Ya scallywag! It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Avast! Arrr! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Begad! Now, ya bilge rat, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, shiver me timbers, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

inner body tube

Inner body tube, motor mount

inner body tube

Inner body tube, parachute bay

retaining nuts

Aft centerin' ring, me hearties, retainin' nuts

retaining clips

Aft centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Blimey! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, shiver me timbers, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. So, I decide t' have a short motor mount, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Ahoy! I cut two, ya bilge rat, 3mm thick, arrr, me bucko, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. Well, blow me down! T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Blimey! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. Avast, me proud beauty! T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' be epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! T' aft cebterin' rein' be fitted, with no epoxy, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. Begad! T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Once t' forward centerin' rin' was fixed, shiver me timbers, t' aft centerin' rin' was removed. Avast, me proud beauty! This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, no thrust rin' is required. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! But I do need a retention system. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Ahoy! Begad! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Blimey! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, through t' centerin' ring, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Once dry, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. Ya scallywag! T' clips are made from aluminium, arrr, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, while held in a vice. Ahoy! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

tintinique

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, arrr, ya bilge rat, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, me hearties, when viewed side-on. This neccessitated a four fin design, matey, which was fine. Ahoy! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, but what t' hey, matey, ya bilge rat, artistic license! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, me bucko, matey, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. Ya scallywag! In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, t' more they seem like a nose cone, but rounded at t' base, arrr, where t' shoulder would normally be. Avast! I've had custom nose cones made before. Avast! Ahoy! I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Blimey! I order five, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, and I'm well pleased, exactly t' right shape, arrr, and all identical. Begad! But how am I goin' t' attach them?

rear view of fins

Rear view o' fins

fin mounting

Close up o' fin mounting

Fins on, stood up

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. Blimey! I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Well, blow me down! Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Ya scallywag! Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, measure at right angles t' t' cut. A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, arrr, removes 3mm in total. Begad! Blimey! When placed on either side o' t' fin, they are back t' t' original diameter. Avast! T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, shiver me timbers, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Well, blow me down! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Next I fill t' joins. Arrr! I've tried all kinds o' filler. Blimey! P38, matey, matey, specialist modelling filler, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, and they all smell terrible! Blimey! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. I like t' Ronseal best, ya bilge rat, it was workable longer, matey, and easier t' sand, but heavy. Begad! Blimey! I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. Aye aye! Ahoy! I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Aye aye! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, me bucko, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Arrr! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Avast! Avast! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. Begad! This reduces teh strength, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, me hearties, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. Ahoy! T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. Begad! This all adds strength, but weight as well. Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. Begad! I don't have any, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Ahoy! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Arrr! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

assembled

Fully assembled

assembled aft view

Fully assembled, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, ya bilge rat, without some form o' reinforcement. I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Arrr! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Arrr! Ya scallywag! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, matey, shiver me timbers, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, me bucko, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, I tack it into place with CA. Aye aye! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, me hearties, me bucko, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Once it's all set, ya bilge rat, me bucko, it gets sanded and filled. Ahoy! T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Prime, matey, sand, me hearties, fill, sand, primne, sand, fill, matey, sand, matey, prime, sand. Begad! Or somethin' like that. Begad! It's ready. I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. Begad! Avast! In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. Aye aye! But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Well, blow me down! I still reckon I need nose weight, ya bilge rat, but what t' use? Lead would be good, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, ya bilge rat, Shaun has t' answer, doubloon o' t' realm. Begad! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Ahoy! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Avast, me proud beauty! Rocksim says "marginal". Well, blow me down! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Avast! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, because they're nay in. Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, shiver me timbers, but they're used t' it by now. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Anyway I start t' swing, shiver me timbers, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Avast, me proud beauty! Great. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! I do a few more sims, arrr, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Begad! Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Aye aye! Blimey! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Begad! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. Blimey! Well, me hearties, blow me down! I drill a hole into t' nose weight, fill it with epoxy, arrr, and insert an eye hook. Sorted.

primed

Primed

primed aft view

Primed, me hearties, aft view

painting

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Blimey! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, in t' aerosol cans. Aye aye! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Begad! Ahoy! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Well, blow me down! Seems appropriate really. Arrr! First I spray t' whole rocket white. I do about 3 coats, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Blimey! Blimey! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard was far too much work, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, o' four quadrants. Avast, me proud beauty! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, and painted everythin' below red. Ahoy! I also painted t' nose cone. Avast! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Ahoy! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. So far so good. T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, bacause it was hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Well, blow me down! T' maskin' be t' hardest part o' t' entire project. Blimey! T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, me hearties, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Well, blow me down! But I managed t' touch those defects up, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Arrr! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. Well, blow me down! Arrr! It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, but thar's no time. Avast, me proud beauty! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, matey, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Avast! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. Begad! Ya scallywag! A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Arrr! It's only just a G, matey, shiver me timbers, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. Ahoy! Arrr! I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Sunday is better, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. Aye aye! On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, and found it was a little tight, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, which was perfect. Blimey! I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, matey, but finally, me bucko, t' moment comes. 5, matey, 4, 3, 2, 1 ignition. Avast! It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, arrr, but very smooth, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Arrr! T' ejection fired right at apogee, arrr, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Aye aye! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Avast! Easy t' fix, me hearties, next flight comin' soon...

primed

Nosecone damage

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