Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, ya bilge rat, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, far too squat and stubby, arrr, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Just As diamonique isn't diamond, matey, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Ya scallywag! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, needs t' watch more QVC!)

Nestlé time capsule

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Amongst t' rockets thar was somethin' very different. Begad! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. Avast! Blimey! It was great. How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, and dig it up in t' future. Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). Begad! For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, ya bilge rat, t' capsule itself, ya bilge rat, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Better still, t' screw-on lid be easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Arrr! Ahoy! Whoever it was I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Ahoy! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, t' other for spare.

Anyway, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Ya scallywag! Avast! I've got t' build this thing. I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Time passes. Well, blow me down! DesCon6 begins. Avast, me proud beauty! Time passes. Begad! Aye aye! DesCon6 finishes. Ahoy! UKRA 2000 approaches, me bucko, shiver me timbers, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, isn't goin' t' be ready. Blimey! Begad! I dig out t' time capsule. Begad! Blimey! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and Explorers on t' Moon. Arrr! I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, arrr, and start t' think about t' body instead. Well, blow me down! Time capsules are cheaply moulded, thick in some places thin in others, matey, and very flexible. Aye aye! I had decided that it be t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Aye aye! It needs an internal body tube, shiver me timbers, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Avast! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, and this seemed ideal. Begad! Avast! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, arrr, or even quantum tubing, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule was larger than 3", ya bilge rat, arrr, so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, and glued it in place, under t' shoulder. Blimey! T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

T' preliminary sketches

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Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, me bucko, so I draw some rough sketches, then some rough, ya bilge rat, matey, dimensioned sketches. Avast! My son, matey, James, draws some sketches. Ahoy! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Arrr! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, shiver me timbers, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, matey, blow me down! Now, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

Inner body tube, motor mount

Inner body tube, parachute bay

Aft centerin' ring, retainin' nuts

Aft centerin' ring, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Well, blow me down! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. Aye aye! Arrr! It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, shiver me timbers, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. Avast! So, I decide t' have a short motor mount, shiver me timbers, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Avast! Well, blow me down! I cut two, 3mm thick, matey, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Arrr! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. T' aft cebterin' rein' was fitted, me bucko, with no epoxy, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. Ahoy! Blimey! T' forward centerin' rin' be epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Once t' forward centerin' rin' be fixed, t' aft centerin' rin' was removed. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, shiver me timbers, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, no thrust rin' is required. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! But I do need a retention system. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Aye aye! Blimey! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Ahoy! Blimey! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, shiver me timbers, through t' centerin' ring, me bucko, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Once dry, matey, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. T' clips are made from aluminium, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, while held in a vice. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Blimey! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, shiver me timbers, when viewed side-on. Ya scallywag! This neccessitated a four fin design, which be fine. I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, but what t' hey, me bucko, artistic license! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, ya bilge rat, matey, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Blimey! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. Ahoy! This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, arrr, t' more they seem like a nose cone, but rounded at t' base, where t' shoulder would normally be. Arrr! I've had custom nose cones made before. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I order five, shiver me timbers, me bucko, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, and I'm well pleased, matey, exactly t' right shape, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and all identical. Arrr! But how am I goin' t' attach them?

Rear view o' fins

Close up o' fin mounting

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, measure at right angles t' t' cut. Avast, me proud beauty! A little sanding, ya bilge rat, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, me hearties, removes 3mm in total. Avast! When placed on either side o' t' fin, they are back t' t' original diameter. Arrr! T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Aye aye! Begad! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Avast, me proud beauty! Next I fill t' joins. Begad! I've tried all kinds o' filler. Arrr! P38, specialist modelling filler, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. Aye aye! Arrr! T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. I like t' Ronseal best, ya bilge rat, it was workable longer, arrr, and easier t' sand, but heavy. Ya scallywag! I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Begad! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, shiver me timbers, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, ya bilge rat, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Avast! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Avast, me proud beauty! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Blimey! Blimey! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Avast! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, me hearties, matey, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. Arrr! This reduces teh strength, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. Ya scallywag! T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. Avast, me proud beauty! T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. This all adds strength, but weight as well. Begad! Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. I don't have any, matey, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Avast! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Begad! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Blimey! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

Fully assembled

Fully assembled, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, without some form o' reinforcement. Blimey! Blimey! I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Arrr! Blimey! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, me bucko, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Ahoy! Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, I tack it into place with CA. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Ya scallywag! Once it's all set, me hearties, it gets sanded and filled. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Aye aye! Prime, ya bilge rat, matey, sand, matey, me hearties, fill, sand, me hearties, primne, me hearties, arrr, sand, me bucko, arrr, fill, shiver me timbers, sand, prime, matey, sand. Or somethin' like that. Begad! It's ready. Avast, me proud beauty! I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. Begad! In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Arrr! I still reckon I need nose weight, me hearties, but what t' use? Lead would be good, ya bilge rat, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, me hearties, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, matey, arrr, Shaun has t' answer, doubloon o' t' realm. Aye aye! Arrr! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Rocksim says "marginal". I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, me bucko, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, me hearties, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, me bucko, arrr, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Arrr! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, ya bilge rat, because they're nay in. Avast! Ya scallywag! Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, but they're used t' it by now. Anyway I start t' swing, matey, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Begad! Blimey! Great. Begad! I do a few more sims, usin' different motors, me hearties, and it doesn't go very high. Arrr! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Begad! Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Arrr! Ahoy! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Begad! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. I drill a hole into t' nose weight, fill it with epoxy, and insert an eye hook. Sorted.

Primed

Primed, ya bilge rat, aft view

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, me hearties, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Begad! Aye aye! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, in t' aerosol cans. Avast! Begad! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Begad! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Well, blow me down! Seems appropriate really. Blimey! Begad! First I spray t' whole rocket white. Begad! I do about 3 coats, shiver me timbers, lightly sandin' betwixt each. I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard was far too much work, shiver me timbers, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, me bucko, o' four quadrants. First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, me hearties, and painted everythin' below red. Aye aye! I also painted t' nose cone. Begad! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Begad! Arrr! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. So far so good. Ahoy! T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, bacause it be hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Blimey! T' maskin' was t' hardest part o' t' entire project. T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Ahoy! But I managed t' touch those defects up, matey, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, but thar's no time. Begad! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, me bucko, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Well, blow me down! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. Avast! Aye aye! A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. Ahoy! Ahoy! I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Avast, me proud beauty! It's only just a G, matey, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Begad! Arrr! Sunday is better, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, arrr, and found it was a little tight, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, which was perfect. Well, me hearties, blow me down! I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, arrr, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, but finally, t' moment comes. 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 ignition. Blimey! It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, matey, but very smooth, arrr, ya bilge rat, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Avast! Arrr! T' ejection fired right at apogee, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Begad! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Blimey! Easy t' fix, ya bilge rat, me hearties, next flight comin' soon...

Nosecone damage