Descon 7 Tintinique Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Tintinique {Scratch}

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Scratch
tintinique

Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, matey, far too squat and stubby, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Just As diamonique isn't diamond, me hearties, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Avast, me proud beauty! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, needs t' watch more QVC!)

time capsule

Nestlé time capsule

time capsule forward view

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Amongst t' rockets thar was somethin' very different. Ya scallywag! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. It be great. How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, matey, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, and dig it up in t' future. Arrr! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' capsule itself, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Better still, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Ahoy! Blimey! Whoever it was I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Ahoy! Blimey! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, t' other for spare.

Anyway, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Aye aye! I've got t' build this thing. Ahoy! Blimey! I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! Time passes. Avast! Blimey! DesCon6 begins. Time passes. Avast! Blimey! DesCon6 finishes. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey! UKRA 2000 approaches, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, isn't goin' t' be ready. Arrr! I dig out t' time capsule. Ya scallywag! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, me bucko, and Explorers on t' Moon. Begad! I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, and start t' think about t' body instead. Ya scallywag! Time capsules are cheaply moulded, shiver me timbers, thick in some places thin in others, me hearties, and very flexible. Well, blow me down! I had decided that it was t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Ya scallywag! It needs an internal body tube, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, and this seemed ideal. I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, me bucko, or even quantum tubing, ya bilge rat, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, matey, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. Begad! Well, me hearties, blow me down! T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule be larger than 3", me hearties, so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, arrr, and glued it in place, under t' shoulder. Avast, me proud beauty! T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

sketches

T' preliminary sketches

rocksim plan
 
fin pod plan

View full size

Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, so I draw some rough sketches, arrr, me hearties, then some rough, dimensioned sketches. Well, blow me down! My son, shiver me timbers, James, draws some sketches. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. Avast, me proud beauty! It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Begad! Begad! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Ahoy! Now, me hearties, me hearties, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, shiver me timbers, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

inner body tube

Inner body tube, arrr, me bucko, arrr, motor mount

inner body tube

Inner body tube, parachute bay

retaining nuts

Aft centerin' ring, retainin' nuts

retaining clips

Aft centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Well, blow me down! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, ya bilge rat, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. Avast, me proud beauty! It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, ya bilge rat, matey, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. So, ya bilge rat, I decide t' have a short motor mount, ya bilge rat, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Avast! Avast! I cut two, shiver me timbers, me hearties, 3mm thick, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. Blimey! T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Well, blow me down! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. Ya scallywag! T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Ya scallywag! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Blimey! T' aft cebterin' rein' be fitted, with no epoxy, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. Arrr! T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Begad! Aye aye! Once t' forward centerin' rin' was fixed, t' aft centerin' rin' be removed. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, shiver me timbers, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, shiver me timbers, no thrust rin' is required. Blimey! But I do need a retention system. Aye aye! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Begad! Begad! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, through t' centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Once dry, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. T' clips are made from aluminium, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, while held in a vice. Ya scallywag! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

tintinique

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, matey, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, when viewed side-on. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This neccessitated a four fin design, me bucko, which was fine. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, but what t' hey, shiver me timbers, matey, artistic license! Blimey! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, shiver me timbers, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, me hearties, t' more they seem like a nose cone, matey, but rounded at t' base, where t' shoulder would normally be. Arrr! Ahoy! I've had custom nose cones made before. I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Well, blow me down! I order five, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, matey, arrr, and I'm well pleased, me bucko, exactly t' right shape, and all identical. But how am I goin' t' attach them?

rear view of fins

Rear view o' fins

fin mounting

Close up o' fin mounting

Fins on, stood up

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. Avast! I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. Avast! Well, blow me down! I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Avast, me proud beauty! Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Begad! Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. Ya scallywag! T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, measure at right angles t' t' cut. Arrr! A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, shiver me timbers, removes 3mm in total. Blimey! When placed on either side o' t' fin, they are back t' t' original diameter. T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, arrr, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Begad! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Ya scallywag! Next I fill t' joins. Avast! I've tried all kinds o' filler. Begad! P38, shiver me timbers, arrr, specialist modelling filler, matey, shiver me timbers, me bucko, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, matey, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. Ahoy! I like t' Ronseal best, it was workable longer, arrr, and easier t' sand, me hearties, but heavy. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. Blimey! Avast! In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. Begad! I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Begad! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, shiver me timbers, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, me bucko, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Well, blow me down! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Blimey! Aye aye! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Avast! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, me bucko, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Ya scallywag! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. Ya scallywag! This reduces teh strength, shiver me timbers, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. Begad! This all adds strength, me bucko, but weight as well. Ahoy! Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. I don't have any, arrr, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Arrr! Blimey! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Arrr! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Blimey! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

assembled

Fully assembled

assembled aft view

Fully assembled, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, without some form o' reinforcement. Avast! Well, blow me down! I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Blimey! Begad! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Ahoy! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, arrr, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Begad! Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Ahoy! Begad! Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, me hearties, I tack it into place with CA. Blimey! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, ya bilge rat, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Once it's all set, me hearties, it gets sanded and filled. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, shiver me timbers, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Prime, sand, fill, sand, arrr, primne, sand, fill, sand, prime, sand. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Or somethin' like that. Ahoy! It's ready. I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, me hearties, matey, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. Begad! But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. I still reckon I need nose weight, matey, arrr, but what t' use? Lead would be good, arrr, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, me bucko, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, Shaun has t' answer, ya bilge rat, doubloon o' t' realm. Aye aye! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Rocksim says "marginal". Blimey! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Aye aye! Blimey! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, matey, matey, because they're nay in. Begad! Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, but they're used t' it by now. Arrr! Blimey! Anyway I start t' swing, shiver me timbers, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Aye aye! Blimey! Great. I do a few more sims, me hearties, ya bilge rat, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Blimey! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Avast! Blimey! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Ahoy! Arrr! Blimey! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. Begad! I drill a hole into t' nose weight, arrr, arrr, fill it with epoxy, me bucko, matey, and insert an eye hook. Sorted.

primed

Primed

primed aft view

Primed, aft view

painting

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, me bucko, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, matey, in t' aerosol cans. Blimey! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Begad! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Seems appropriate really. Arrr! First I spray t' whole rocket white. Ya scallywag! I do about 3 coats, arrr, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Begad! Aye aye! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard be far too much work, me bucko, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, ya bilge rat, o' four quadrants. Avast! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, and painted everythin' below red. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! I also painted t' nose cone. Ya scallywag! Avast! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Ahoy! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. So far so good. T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, ya bilge rat, arrr, bacause it be hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Begad! Ahoy! T' maskin' be t' hardest part o' t' entire project. T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, shiver me timbers, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Ahoy! But I managed t' touch those defects up, me bucko, me hearties, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Avast! Blimey! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, ya bilge rat, but thar's no time. Begad! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, me bucko, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Aye aye! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. Begad! A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Begad! It's only just a G, me bucko, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. Avast, me proud beauty! I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Begad! Ahoy! Sunday is better, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. Blimey! On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, shiver me timbers, and found it be a little tight, arrr, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, arrr, which was perfect. I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, shiver me timbers, but finally, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, arrr, t' moment comes. Ahoy! 5, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, 4, arrr, 3, shiver me timbers, me bucko, 2, 1 ignition. It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, but very smooth, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Ahoy! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' ejection fired right at apogee, me hearties, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, matey, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Well, blow me down! Arrr! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Avast! Begad! Easy t' fix, next flight comin' soon...

primed

Nosecone damage

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