Descon 7 Tintinique Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Tintinique {Scratch}

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Scratch
tintinique

Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, far too squat and stubby, me hearties, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Just As diamonique isn't diamond, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, me hearties, matey, needs t' watch more QVC!)

time capsule

Nestlé time capsule

time capsule forward view

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, shiver me timbers, matey, matey, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Arrr! Amongst t' rockets thar be somethin' very different. Blimey! Ahoy! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. Ahoy! It was great. How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, matey, shiver me timbers, and dig it up in t' future. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). Ahoy! For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, t' capsule itself, me bucko, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Avast! Better still, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Whoever it be I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, shiver me timbers, t' other for spare.

Anyway, me hearties, arrr, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I've got t' build this thing. Begad! I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Time passes. Well, blow me down! DesCon6 begins. Well, blow me down! Time passes. Well, blow me down! DesCon6 finishes. Ahoy! UKRA 2000 approaches, matey, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, me bucko, arrr, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, me hearties, ya bilge rat, isn't goin' t' be ready. Avast! I dig out t' time capsule. Blimey! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and Explorers on t' Moon. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, and start t' think about t' body instead. Avast! Aye aye! Time capsules are cheaply moulded, thick in some places thin in others, and very flexible. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I had decided that it was t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, me bucko, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! It needs an internal body tube, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Avast! Ahoy! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, matey, and this seemed ideal. Well, blow me down! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, or even quantum tubing, ya bilge rat, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, matey, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. Blimey! T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule was larger than 3", me hearties, so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, matey, and glued it in place, shiver me timbers, under t' shoulder. Begad! T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

sketches

T' preliminary sketches

rocksim plan
 
fin pod plan

View full size

Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, so I draw some rough sketches, then some rough, dimensioned sketches. My son, James, draws some sketches. Begad! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. Blimey! It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Avast! Blimey! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Now, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, matey, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, matey, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

inner body tube

Inner body tube, motor mount

inner body tube

Inner body tube, parachute bay

retaining nuts

Aft centerin' ring, matey, retainin' nuts

retaining clips

Aft centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Blimey! Blimey! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. Aye aye! Blimey! So, I decide t' have a short motor mount, me bucko, shiver me timbers, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I cut two, 3mm thick, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, matey, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Begad! Blimey! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Begad! Blimey! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Aye aye! T' aft cebterin' rein' was fitted, with no epoxy, me hearties, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. Avast, me proud beauty! T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Ahoy! Once t' forward centerin' rin' be fixed, me bucko, t' aft centerin' rin' be removed. This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, shiver me timbers, no thrust rin' is required. But I do need a retention system. Begad! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, through t' centerin' ring, matey, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Well, blow me down! Once dry, me bucko, arrr, arrr, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. Begad! T' clips are made from aluminium, matey, arrr, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, while held in a vice. Ya scallywag! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

tintinique

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, matey, ya bilge rat, matey, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, when viewed side-on. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! This neccessitated a four fin design, me bucko, shiver me timbers, which be fine. Avast! Begad! Blimey! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. Begad! It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, but what t' hey, artistic license! Blimey! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. Begad! Blimey! In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Begad! Blimey! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. Arrr! This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, arrr, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, t' more they seem like a nose cone, but rounded at t' base, where t' shoulder would normally be. Well, blow me down! I've had custom nose cones made before. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Begad! I order five, matey, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and I'm well pleased, exactly t' right shape, arrr, and all identical. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! But how am I goin' t' attach them?

rear view of fins

Rear view o' fins

fin mounting

Close up o' fin mounting

Fins on, stood up

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. Blimey! I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Well, blow me down! Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Avast! Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. Avast! T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, me bucko, measure at right angles t' t' cut. Well, blow me down! Avast! A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, arrr, removes 3mm in total. When placed on either side o' t' fin, they are back t' t' original diameter. Avast, me proud beauty! T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, me hearties, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, me bucko, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Next I fill t' joins. I've tried all kinds o' filler. Begad! Blimey! P38, shiver me timbers, specialist modelling filler, matey, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, me hearties, matey, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. Begad! Aye aye! T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. Ahoy! I like t' Ronseal best, me bucko, it be workable longer, and easier t' sand, but heavy. I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. Begad! Begad! In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. Avast, me proud beauty! I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! Blimey! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, me bucko, me hearties, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Begad! Well, blow me down! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Begad! Avast! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Avast! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, before t' outer body shell is fitted. If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. Blimey! This reduces teh strength, me hearties, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. Ahoy! T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Aye aye! Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. Blimey! T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. Blimey! Begad! This all adds strength, matey, but weight as well. Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. Ahoy! Begad! I don't have any, me bucko, arrr, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Arrr! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Arrr! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Ahoy! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

assembled

Fully assembled

assembled aft view

Fully assembled, ya bilge rat, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, arrr, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, shiver me timbers, without some form o' reinforcement. Avast, me proud beauty! I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Blimey! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Ahoy! Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, ya bilge rat, I tack it into place with CA. Avast, me proud beauty! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Once it's all set, it gets sanded and filled. T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Ahoy! Prime, me bucko, sand, me bucko, fill, sand, primne, ya bilge rat, sand, me hearties, fill, me bucko, shiver me timbers, sand, me bucko, me hearties, prime, me hearties, arrr, sand. Or somethin' like that. Ahoy! Avast! It's ready. I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, me hearties, matey, me hearties, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. Avast! In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Begad! I still reckon I need nose weight, ya bilge rat, me hearties, but what t' use? Lead would be good, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, me bucko, Shaun has t' answer, me bucko, arrr, doubloon o' t' realm. Begad! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Ya scallywag! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Avast! Rocksim says "marginal". Aye aye! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, me hearties, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Ya scallywag! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, me bucko, arrr, because they're nay in. Begad! Ahoy! Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, but they're used t' it by now. Arrr! Anyway I start t' swing, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Ahoy! Great. Begad! Begad! I do a few more sims, ya bilge rat, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. Blimey! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Well, blow me down! Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. I drill a hole into t' nose weight, me hearties, fill it with epoxy, and insert an eye hook. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Sorted.

primed

Primed

primed aft view

Primed, me bucko, aft view

painting

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, ya bilge rat, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Avast! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, matey, in t' aerosol cans. I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Ahoy! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Ya scallywag! Seems appropriate really. Aye aye! First I spray t' whole rocket white. Avast! I do about 3 coats, me hearties, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Blimey! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard be far too much work, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, shiver me timbers, o' four quadrants. Ahoy! Avast! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, me hearties, me hearties, and painted everythin' below red. I also painted t' nose cone. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Well, blow me down! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. So far so good. T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, bacause it was hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Begad! Arrr! T' maskin' was t' hardest part o' t' entire project. Begad! T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, me hearties, me hearties, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. But I managed t' touch those defects up, me hearties, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Aye aye! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. Blimey! It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, but thar's no time. UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. Avast! A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. Blimey! I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Arrr! It's only just a G, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, me bucko, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Ahoy! Sunday is better, me hearties, me hearties, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. Ahoy! On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, and found it was a little tight, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, matey, ya bilge rat, which be perfect. Begad! Aye aye! I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, ya bilge rat, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, but finally, t' moment comes. Avast! 5, matey, 4, 3, arrr, 2, me bucko, 1 ignition. Blimey! Blimey! It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, but very smooth, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Begad! T' ejection fired right at apogee, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, shiver me timbers, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Well, blow me down! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Avast! Easy t' fix, me hearties, next flight comin' soon...

primed

Nosecone damage

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