Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, me hearties, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, far too squat and stubby, shiver me timbers, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Aye aye! Just As diamonique isn't diamond, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Ahoy! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, me bucko, needs t' watch more QVC!)

Nestlé time capsule

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, me bucko, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Avast, me proud beauty! Amongst t' rockets thar be somethin' very different. It looked like a 50's retro rocket. It be great. How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, matey, and dig it up in t' future. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). Well, blow me down! Arrr! For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, me bucko, shiver me timbers, t' capsule itself, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Better still, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Well, blow me down! Begad! Whoever it was I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Begad! I buy two, shiver me timbers, me hearties, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, me bucko, t' other for spare.

Anyway, shiver me timbers, arrr, me bucko, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I've got t' build this thing. Arrr! I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Time passes. Begad! DesCon6 begins. Ahoy! Time passes. DesCon6 finishes. Begad! UKRA 2000 approaches, me bucko, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, isn't goin' t' be ready. Ahoy! Avast! I dig out t' time capsule. Well, blow me down! Avast! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, and Explorers on t' Moon. I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, and start t' think about t' body instead. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Time capsules are cheaply moulded, thick in some places thin in others, arrr, and very flexible. Begad! I had decided that it be t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, matey, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! It needs an internal body tube, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, shiver me timbers, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, matey, and this seemed ideal. Well, blow me down! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, ya bilge rat, or even quantum tubing, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, shiver me timbers, matey, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule was larger than 3", so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, and glued it in place, ya bilge rat, under t' shoulder. T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

T' preliminary sketches

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Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, so I draw some rough sketches, matey, then some rough, dimensioned sketches. Ya scallywag! My son, arrr, James, draws some sketches. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Ahoy! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Blimey! Begad! Now, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, shiver me timbers, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, shiver me timbers, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

Inner body tube, ya bilge rat, motor mount

Inner body tube, parachute bay

Aft centerin' ring, matey, retainin' nuts

Aft centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, me bucko, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. Well, blow me down! It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! So, shiver me timbers, arrr, I decide t' have a short motor mount, matey, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Ya scallywag! Begad! I cut two, arrr, 3mm thick, me bucko, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' be epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Begad! T' aft cebterin' rein' was fitted, with no epoxy, ya bilge rat, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. T' forward centerin' rin' be epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Once t' forward centerin' rin' was fixed, t' aft centerin' rin' be removed. This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, shiver me timbers, arrr, arrr, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, no thrust rin' is required. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! But I do need a retention system. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Begad! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, through t' centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Blimey! Once dry, arrr, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. T' clips are made from aluminium, shiver me timbers, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, me bucko, me hearties, while held in a vice. Avast, me proud beauty! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, when viewed side-on. Avast! This neccessitated a four fin design, matey, which be fine. Begad! Arrr! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, arrr, but what t' hey, artistic license! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, me bucko, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Blimey! Avast! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, ya bilge rat, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, ya bilge rat, matey, t' more they seem like a nose cone, but rounded at t' base, arrr, ya bilge rat, where t' shoulder would normally be. Well, blow me down! I've had custom nose cones made before. Blimey! I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Avast! Blimey! I order five, matey, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, and I'm well pleased, ya bilge rat, exactly t' right shape, me bucko, me bucko, me hearties, and all identical. But how am I goin' t' attach them?

Rear view o' fins

Close up o' fin mounting

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. Arrr! I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. Blimey! I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Begad! Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Begad! Ya scallywag! Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. Ahoy! T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, measure at right angles t' t' cut. Blimey! A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, arrr, removes 3mm in total. Ya scallywag! When placed on either side o' t' fin, shiver me timbers, me hearties, me hearties, they are back t' t' original diameter. T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Ya scallywag! Begad! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Next I fill t' joins. I've tried all kinds o' filler. Blimey! P38, specialist modelling filler, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. Arrr! T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. Well, blow me down! I like t' Ronseal best, me bucko, ya bilge rat, it was workable longer, and easier t' sand, but heavy. I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. Ya scallywag! I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Begad! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Avast! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Ya scallywag! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, matey, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. This reduces teh strength, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. Blimey! T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. Arrr! T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. Aye aye! This all adds strength, matey, but weight as well. Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. I don't have any, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Avast! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Arrr! Blimey! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

Fully assembled

Fully assembled, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, me bucko, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, without some form o' reinforcement. Begad! I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Avast! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Aye aye! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Arrr! Ahoy! Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, matey, I tack it into place with CA. Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Once it's all set, it gets sanded and filled. T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Prime, sand, me bucko, fill, sand, shiver me timbers, primne, arrr, arrr, me bucko, sand, me bucko, arrr, fill, arrr, me bucko, sand, me hearties, prime, sand. Avast! Aye aye! Or somethin' like that. Avast! It's ready. Begad! I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. Blimey! Well, matey, blow me down! But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Well, blow me down! I still reckon I need nose weight, but what t' use? Lead would be good, me bucko, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, me bucko, Shaun has t' answer, ya bilge rat, doubloon o' t' realm. One pees are quite heavy for their size. Avast! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Begad! Rocksim says "marginal". Arrr! Blimey! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, me bucko, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Ya scallywag! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, me hearties, me hearties, shiver me timbers, because they're nay in. Begad! Well, arrr, blow me down! Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, me bucko, but they're used t' it by now. Blimey! Anyway I start t' swing, arrr, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Well, blow me down! Great. Aye aye! I do a few more sims, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. Blimey! Ahoy! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Well, blow me down! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. Arrr! Blimey! I drill a hole into t' nose weight, shiver me timbers, fill it with epoxy, shiver me timbers, and insert an eye hook. Blimey! Begad! Sorted.

Primed

Primed, matey, aft view

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, ya bilge rat, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, matey, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, in t' aerosol cans. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Begad! Blimey! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Seems appropriate really. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! First I spray t' whole rocket white. Blimey! Blimey! I do about 3 coats, me bucko, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Blimey! Blimey! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard be far too much work, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, shiver me timbers, me bucko, o' four quadrants. Begad! Blimey! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, shiver me timbers, and painted everythin' below red. Arrr! Blimey! I also painted t' nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! So far so good. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, bacause it was hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' maskin' was t' hardest part o' t' entire project. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, me hearties, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Arrr! Blimey! But I managed t' touch those defects up, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, but thar's no time. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Aye aye! Blimey! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. Avast! Blimey! A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! It's only just a G, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. Avast, me proud beauty! I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Avast, me proud beauty! Sunday is better, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. Begad! On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, arrr, and found it be a little tight, shiver me timbers, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, which was perfect. Arrr! Arrr! I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, shiver me timbers, me bucko, but finally, t' moment comes. Blimey! 5, 4, matey, 3, 2, arrr, 1 ignition. It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, me bucko, but very smooth, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Begad! T' ejection fired right at apogee, me bucko, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, me bucko, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Avast! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, matey, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Avast! Easy t' fix, next flight comin' soon...

Nosecone damage