Brief:
Fiberglassed airframe and fins, arrr, external fin can assembly, matey, me hearties, removable bulkhead in nosecone.

Modifications:
Usin' me trusty Foodsaver I vacuum bagged both fins and body tube usin' one layer o' 6oz fiberglass with West Systems Epoxy. Blimey! Before vacuum baggin' t' fins I used me Dremel sandin' drum t' bevel t' fins.

After t' body tube had completely cured I continued t' existin' slots for the fins down t' t' bottom t' allow for insertion o' a fin-can assembly.

T' fin can be created by first gluin' t' centerin' rings t' t' motor mount (as is standard in most kits). Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! T' fins were subsequently attached using 5 minute epoxy for an initial bond with subsequent reinforcement usin' Keelhaul®©™® tape and un-thickened West Systems Epoxy. Blimey! This created a solid fin t' motor bond which is unlikely t' shred. Begad! Begad! T' resultin' fin-can was then inserted into the body tube and epoxied in place usin' un-thickened epoxy then filleted from above and below. Avast! External fillets for t' fins were achieved usin' epoxy thickened with microballoons.

Finally, ya bilge rat, t' nosecone was altered t' provide a stronger mount point. Aye aye! Begad! As shown in t' diagram me plan was t' create a removable bulkhead which was capable o' withstandin' t' recovery forces and yet allow for access t' the nosecone interior (just in case I need more weight later or wanted t' put in a trackin' device). T' nose cone base was cut usin' a hobby knife (surprising how soft t' plastic is). Avast, me proud beauty! A 6mm all-thread bolt was then cut t' length and threaded with a washer and bolt at one end. Well, blow me down! T' resultin' part (nut/washer end) was then heated on a gas stove for a few seconds. Blimey! Arrr! While still hot it was then inserted all t' way into t' top o' t' nosecone with t' washer and nut assembly touchin' t' inside tip o' t' nosecone. T' heatin' o' t' part should partially melt t' inside o' t' nosecone tip allowin' t' all-thread, nut and washer t' bite into t' plastic. Well, blow me down! You need t' keep t' nosecone pointin' straight down t' ensure proper alignment o' t' all-thread. Ya scallywag!

Next I poured un-thickened epoxy (about 1 oz) into t' nosecone until it completely encased t' nut and washer in t' tip. Blimey! Ya scallywag! This was then set t' cure overnight. Ahoy! Once cured I cut a piece o' carbon rod (you can get these at any kite supplier -- they are sometimes called 'carbon rod spars') t' fit over the all-thread. T' rod be cut t' allow for 1/2" o' t' all-thread t' poke through. Begad! Avast! I next took a 4" coupler bulk-plate and drilled holes t' allow for t' connection o' a 1/2" u-bolt (very strong). T' middle hole o' the bulk-plate (already drilled) was used t' fit over t' exposed all-thread (the bulkhead is actually inside t' shoulder o' t' nosecone). Well, blow me down! Connection t' the all-thread is achieved usin' a standard 6mm wing-nut with a washer on both sides o' t' bulkhead. T' carbon rod and washer stop t' bulkhead from slippin' down into t' nosecone. Aye aye! Ya scallywag!

Finally t' provide a gas-proof seal I used some instant-gasket (you get this at any automotive shop) round t' outside o' t' bulkhead t' provide a seal against t' interior wall o' t' nosecone. Begad! Blimey!

All that remained be t' finish.

Construction:
Kit Includes:

• 1 - 4" flexible phenolic body tube
• 4 - plywood fins
• 2 - 1/4" plywood centerin' rings
• 1 - Nosecone
• 1 - 15' 9/16" tubular nylon shock cord
• ORDERED WITHOUT PARACHUTE
• NO DECALS included. Blimey! Ya scallywag!

T' packagin' was a standard bag with all parts accounted for. Begad! Instructions where easy t' follow but nay used since this was a MOD anyway. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' rocket built stock would be very simple t' build with through t' wall fin attachment. Avast! Since I fiberglassed t' rocket it was necessary t' apply a finish coat t' cover the weave o' t' fabric. A top layer o' 'SuperFil' was applied usin' a plastic squeegee. Arrr! Avast! I love this stuff as it is super light and easy t' sand. When dried it is rock hard. Since this is a sport rocket thar be no paintin' guide. Blimey! So I decided t' model mine on a W79 8" Artillery shell (picture included 1 2). I had some clear vinyl decals made up and use a military green paint t' give it that 'army ordinance' look. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! I have given me rocket t' name o' 'W80 4" Projectile'. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Flight:
My rockets all tend t' be on t' heavy side since I always reinforce them. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! As a result I never look at t' recommended motors list. Blimey! Instead I use RockSim to test for stability and motor selection. T' first and so far only flight was on an I211W-10. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Perfectly straight in a 15mph wind. Aye aye! T' predicted height was 2900 feet and I could hardly see it when it deployed t' chute but it looked t' be just after apogee. Aye aye! T' rocket drifted about 3/4" o' a mile and soft landed in a field without a scratch t' show for it. Aye aye!

Summary:
PROs: YANK kits are very nice. Blimey! I like t' flexible phenolic and t' ability to buy without a chute. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Fin material is first rate and t' nosecone is one o' the better t' be found. Avast, me proud beauty!

CONs: can't think o' any except they could provide a decal or two. Begad! After all that is what makes BSD rockets so nice.

Other:
Build it like you are flyin' an M and you won't have t' worry about a shred. Next stop--J350W