Brief:
11 "Finned" rocket that can be launched on a single "E" or staged (D12-0, me hearties, D12-3) with a parachute recovery.

Prototype:
I built a protoype o' me choice o' rockets for t' EMRR "Rockets o' t' Future." I choose t' t' do an 18mm version first. Aye aye! I gathered some cardboard, matey, posterboard, arrr, and second hand parts, etc. Avast! It would have been ten times harder without t' EMRR "Calculators", shiver me timbers, for shrouds, matey, etc. I chose cardboard figuring, shiver me timbers, "If I can get this t' fly without a cad program, shiver me timbers, from t' heaviest material, me bucko, I surely will be able t' build one in t' 24 MM scale. Begad! Also, cardboard a little easier t' work with than "foamboard."

My 1st test flight was a disaster. Aye aye! Blimey! (Remember, I have no software t' determine where t' CP & CG Is and if it will fly.) After givin' it some thought, cut open nosecone and added some clay t' move CG forward. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Last Saturday flew it again and success! Blimey! It only went 50 ft up but successfully deployed chute right before landing. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

What I've learned is,"use t' material in your prototype, me hearties, that u intend t' use on your final version." Mine did fly but, me hearties, would have saved a lot o' aggravation and speeded up t' build. Avast! Blimey! Also, Highly recommended buildin' a prototype, especially in me case. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! My submission for t' "rocket o' t' future" has 12 fins! Blimey! Never came close t' design such a complex rocket before. Begad! Blimey!

Construction:

PARTS LIST:

• 24mm engine block
• 1 engine hooks
• 1 sheet o' foam board, 20x30x1/4"
• 2 sheets o' poster board, shiver me timbers, 20x30"
• 1 (priority mailin' box)
• 2 BT-55's (15" long)
• 1 BT-55 coupler
• 18"x24mm Body tube for "engine Mounts"
• Shock cord; ¼"x 24+"
• 3, 4"x"36"x1/8 balsa sheets/basswood
• 1 "quest" egglofter nosecone
• 1 (18") parachute, shiver me timbers, & shroud line
• "non-hardening" clay
• (8) bic pen caps t' "simulate 8 motors"
• 2 spent "D" engines
• Templates (will be loaded shortly)

Just wanted t' interject for a moment. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Hope you find this rocket as much o' a challenge t' build as I found to design it, without t' help o' any "Cad software." If anyone cares t' "plug" these measurements into a cad program, shiver me timbers, I would be very curious as t' t' result. I did use EMRR "Calculators" for t' shrouds and centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I thank Nick for makin' available because without them, couldn't have made this design. Avast! Blimey!

This design is for "Personal use only" and nay for resale, shiver me timbers, with express permission o' myself, me hearties, shiver me timbers, Glenn Roth.

I stated in "parts" section that t' balsa is very fragile. Just discovered Tech Report # 29, me hearties, from www.apogeerockets.com; "Take your rocket t' Supersonic Speeds. Blimey! " This is a compromise t' replacin' entire fin with basswood or ply. Begad! You can download this free report and make these large fins MUCH STRONGER! I tried this on 3 of me fins and they are NOTICEABLY stronger.

ASSEMBLY:

Read thru all instructions before proceeding. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Options exist. Begad! Blimey!

**Not happy with way main "body shroud" turned out. Well, blow me down! This "posterboard" is hard t' keep smooth without "kinking." You might want t' A) shorten t' about half t' length; b) wrap it around a smooth form of some kind while gluing, t' keep smooth.**

1. Gather parts, arrr, make templates, and gather followin' tools: sharp razor knife, metal ruler, scissors, carpenters square, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, 2 "spent D" engines, adhesive spray, shiver me timbers, arrr, (worn out windshield wiper. For engine hooks)., protractor, and compass.
2. Cut two engine mounts from 24mm body tube. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Main 2 " long and "booster" 3 1/2" long.*****note: Now that t' rocket is half done, ya bilge rat, t' shroud looks too short. Well, blow me down! Avast! I have increased length from 3 t' 3 ½ inches or longer, me bucko, in instructions. Begad! Blimey! You'll have increase length o' shroud accordingly.****
   • *** OPTION: I've since elected t' use a "friction fit", arrr, ya bilge rat, instead o' an engine hook, ya bilge rat, on main motor. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I'm sure you can use one but, have t' "dry fit" b 4 assembly.*** I've discovered that with t' aft "body panels", extendin' an inch, shiver me timbers, matey, it's very difficult t' use an engine hook. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I've since elected t' slip "main motor" into booster engine mount, and tape. Begad! Blimey! T' tape will require a "slit" into it, ya bilge rat, so makes easy separation. Ahoy! Blimey!
3. Glue 24mm engine block into end o' engine tube w/engine hook stickin' into it. Avast, me proud beauty!
   • Option*** This designed as a "two stage". Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! If you want an easier conversion t' single stage, arrr, me bucko, you may want t' insert "booster engine tube" in a section o' BT-55. Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Then usin' a BT-55 coupler, fasten t' engine tubes together. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! (skip 1st /main engine tube.) It is much easier buildin' booster shroud separately. Arrr! Begad! Blimey!

Main Engine Tube

1. Glue t' BT55 centerin' rings on main engine tube. Aye aye! Let dry. Well, blow me down!
2. You'll want t' "dry fit" main engine mount and make sure "spent engine" recessed inside BT55 about ¼". Ahoy! Blimey!
3. Mark Bt55 where "engine Hook" will be, and cut a slot 1/8" x3/8". Aye aye!
4. Glue main engine mount with engine hook lined up with slot in BT55.

Booster Engine Mount

1. Take 3" piece o' 24mm BT; then cut 1/8"x 3/8" slot in one end. Blimey!
2. Lay "flat" side o' hook inline with slot and tape. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! *** I used a long piece o' old wiper blade for hook and cut t' length later. Ahoy! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty!
3. Cut out 3 "rear shroud centerin' rings. Aye aye! Blimey! ***Tip: when I cut out middle o' rings FIRST, I then took a spent engine and inserted and twisted t' check for a tight fit. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Then inserted engine in tube for support. Begad! Blimey!
4. Take largest aft rin' and glue over aft engine mount WITHOUT coverin' slot in t' mount. Begad! Be careful nay t' get glue on motor!!
5. Glue middle and end centerin' rings and remove spent motor and let dry. Begad!
6. While drying, me bucko, cut out aft shroud. Well, blow me down! Arrr! (You will see I include pattern, matey, showin' a "saw tooth design" on inside radius o' shroud. Avast! Blimey! Cut design in shroud. Much easier t' glue.)
7. Shape shroud, tape together on inside. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
8. Fold "teeth" over t' inside and make a sharp crease. Straighten out.
9. After center rings on engine tube have dried, take some glue and apply t' edges o' rings.
10. Take shroud and slip over engine assembly. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! Be sure t' get completely in.
11. Spread some glue on smallest centerin' rin' and fold shroud "teeth" down, me hearties, holdin' till set. Ya scallywag! Blimey! You may only be able t' do a few @ a time. Blimey! Let dry Thoroughly. Avast!
12. Put a spent engine in "Main and aft " engine mounts. Aye aye!
13. Slide together, linin' up "slots" in engine tubes. T' aft engine tube should slide over t' Main engine about ½" and stay in place. Arrr! ***Make sure aft Booster engine is as far forward as it will go WITHOUT disengagin' t' booster. Arrr!
14. Mark t' aft engine hook , cut and bend t' correct size.
15. Cut shock cord mount and glue shock cord t' it. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!
16. Slide "loose" end o' shock cord thru a BT55 coupler. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey!
17. Glue Shock cord mount t' inside o' BT55 containin' engine mount far enough inside t' be able t' glue BT55 coupler. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue Bt55 coupler and let dry.
18. Cut other BT55 t' length so when t' two r put together , you have a rocket body 23" long, "without" aft shroud. Begad!
19. Cut out Main Body centerin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! (u can take spare piece o' BT55 t' check fit). Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty!
20. Take t' "fin template" and mark 3", shiver me timbers, 3.5" rin' where it will engage each fin. Blimey! Blimey! ****Note: you can mark 4" rin' but, because o' size, ya bilge rat, it won't line up with other two rings. You will have t' do slots on this rin' once it is mounted. Arrr! Blimey!
21. Take care, me hearties, shiver me timbers, cut a ¼" deep slot x 1/8" wide into each ring. Aye aye! Aye aye!
22. Mark 1st slot on each rin' with a #1 for reference. Well, blow me down!
23. Make a fin from 1/8" "Basewood/plywood" as a guide t' check fit o' fins. It will also b used t' as guide for slots, and cut initial fin slots in 4" ring.
    • ***You may want t' fasten up aft shroud again w/spent motors t' check placement o' centerin' rings and fins.***

Fins and Body:

1. Cut out 8 fins, arrr, ya bilge rat, and use sealer if desired. Begad!
2. Use fine guide and cut slots in each fin: 1" from aft o' fin, ya bilge rat, me bucko, 1x1/4 deep. Next one 7" from end. Arrr!
3. Last slot is 2.5 " from previous slot and only 5/8" deep.
4. These r initial slots. Avast, me proud beauty! You may have t' widen for proper fit. Begad!
5. Slide center rings on BT one @ a time. Ahoy! ***If seems tight or binds, increase size o' hole slightly. Ya scallywag! Well, me hearties, blow me down! You can use a piece o' BT55 t' "shape" hole. Ya scallywag! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! (you want t' maintain a fairly tight fit). Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty!
6. Space rings approximately same distance as slots on fin. Well, blow me down!
7. "Orientate" all 3 rings with #1's lined up. Well, blow me down!
8. Take your "Guide Fin", ( t' one made from plywood), and check slot lineup for first fin. Well, blow me down!
9. You'll have t' cut slots deeper in each ring, ya bilge rat, checkin' fit each time. Well, blow me down! You may nay even need a slots for 4" ring, till ready t' glue on fins, me bucko, due t' a "redesign", and linin' up o' fin with "center ring slots," I made for simplicity. Aye aye! (make recess higher, arrr, me bucko, about 1 ¼").
10. After you get a good fit for t' fine on t' center rings, take a "real" fin and glue in #1 slots of rings. Begad! Avast! Blimey! (I kept breakin' balsa fins, that why I recommended goin' t' a sturdier material, me bucko, ya bilge rat, such as basswood or Tims Tech report #29, gluin' "notebook paper" t' exterior o' fin first for strength).
11. Take guide fin and check next set o' slot, shiver me timbers, matey, adjustin' for correct fit. Begad!
12. Then glue 3 center rings in place.
13. Glue all 8 fins in place, arrr, checkin' fit first with "guide fin".
14. Cut out two "body templates". Well, blow me down! Make a slice at end o' each one ¼-3/4" deep, 1" from end on each side. Fold over @ slices and straighten out. Begad!
15. Dependin' upon which set o' fins you start with, will determine what size template t' use, arrr, arrr, medium or large. Well, arrr, blow me down!
16. Lay template betwixt fins, and gently push down. Aye aye! It should hang out rear, ya bilge rat, betwixt fins 1", ya bilge rat, up to "slices."
17. Check front o' template and mark where template extends past fin. Well, blow me down! Avast!
18. Cut on t' mark, down t' ¼" fold mark on each side. Cut a "saw tooth" pattern in sides of body templates. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Makes for easier gluin' and smoothin' out. Well, blow me down! ***see photo"***
19. Before gluin' fins, me hearties, I made "fin supports," ½" x 1 ¼", me bucko, and glue betwixt ends of fins. Arrr! Begad! Also, arrr, made a bevel on each end. Begad! Blimey! **See photo**
20. Glue in place and repeat for each set o' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! ***remember t' check fit! Blimey! (Center on BT) too. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' aft o' body template should be about ½-3/4" above body and aft shroud. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
21. Cut out "body templates," with "saw-tooth" design on edges and glue betwixt fins.
22. Main Body Shroud: As I stated in beginning, matey, matey, nay happy with t' way this one turned out. You may want t' shorten or find a different material or wrap around a "form" t' keep smooth. Blimey! Blimey! Also, matey, shiver me timbers, use same "saw-tooth" design for edges before gluin' in shape o' cone. Avast! Once glue, let DRY THOROUGHLY. Ahoy! Blimey!
23. I fitted over main body tube t' fins. Begad! I marked where touched fins and cut slits about 1" long, in shroud. Keep fittin' till you get a tight fit into slots, shiver me timbers, then glue and let dry thoroughly. Aye aye! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Blimey!
24. Now comes a tricky part. Aye aye! Seams that r formed betwixt "fins, body templates, main shroud have t' be "filled." I opted t' use "Elmers wood filler" and nay happy with result. Friend recommended these tiny silicone beads you mix w/epoxy. Avast! Begad! Strong, matey, light, and easy t' sand after hardened. Begad!
25. After seams dry, sand till smooth.

Nosecone Fins:

1. Looking @ picture o' t' rocket I was copying, "upper fins" aren't really in nosecone but, me hearties, me bucko, I liked this location better. (You can opt t' move out o' nosecone, ya bilge rat, down body a few inches in "same configuration.)
2. Cut slits in nose cone ½" from end o' "open" nosecone, about 2" long and 3/16-1/4" wide. ** b careful nay t' cut all t' way thru t' end o' nosecone**. I mounted a piece o' 1" aluminum angle iron t' a piece o' wood and clamped t' me table as a guide.
3. Fit fins in slots one @ a time, trimmin' slots till fins fit. Arrr! Ahoy! Remove fins and put a ball o' clay in tip of nosecone and press into place. Avast!
4. Replace fins 1 @ a time til they "touch" in middle o' nosecone and glue. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! (I opted for "gorilla glue" type). Ya scallywag! Blimey! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey! It foams up and becomes very strong). Let dry.

Nose Cone:

1. Keep addin' balls o' clay, arrr, fillin' void in nosecone, me bucko, and pressin' into place. ****remember t' allow room for end o' nose cone t' slide in.****
2. Also, as you r fillin' void, arrr, assemble nosecone and check for CG with motors in main and booster BT's. Begad! (goin' to take a few ounces o' clay t' fill and balance rocket so CG approx. in middle.)
3. Once clay pressed into place and you r satisfied w/location o' CG, ya bilge rat, assemble nosecone. Blimey!

Finishing:

1. Get 8 "regular" bic pen caps and cut off "pocket clip."
2. Paint rocket color o' preference. Aye aye!
3. After you r sure you have color o' rocket and finished painting, arrr, sand a flat spot on each "pen cap," and glue in place betwixt each fin above booster shroud. Ahoy! Ahoy! (These pen caps simulate 8 motors o' rocket). Arrr! Arrr!
4. Prep rocket and you r ready t' fly. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty!
5. I would rate this build a 5++. Blimey! Very difficult. Aye aye! Ahoy!

Flight:

My first flight be very successful. Avast! I used a E9-4. Aye aye! Begad!

Preparation a little different than usual but, me hearties, easy. Well, blow me down! After loadin' an 18" parachute, shiver me timbers, dusted with baby powder, and t' wadding, me hearties, I loaded t' engine. Avast! I loaded it into t' booster from t' "inside." (T' E9 is a much longer motor than t' D.) Then I applied a little maskin' tape t' t' end for a "friction fit," and inserted it into main rocket body. Ahoy! It flew great! Relatively straight for t' design, 11 fins, and t' weight. Arrr!

T' shock cord, attached t' rocket, was Keelhaul®©™. Avast! Then an elastic, matey, tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™, which proved t' b t' weak. (will explain in next flight).

Parachute deployed perfectly and landed about 30 yards away. Aye aye!

SECOND FLIGHT

Another story. I designed this rocket t' be an optional 2-stage. I prepped t' parachute t' same way. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Then taped t' booster, matey, a D12-0, t' t' main motor, a D12-3, shiver me timbers, with scotch tape, me bucko, me bucko, and put a small slit in it, t' help with separation. Avast, me proud beauty! Once motors finished, me hearties, I loaded it in booster stage first, arrr, from t' "inside." Then added some maskin' tape t' t' main motor and "friction fit" it into main rocket. Aye aye! For whatever reason I couldn't get motors all t' way in t' main rocket body. Avast! ( I believe I used too much tape). Ya scallywag! At launch, shiver me timbers, it flew down range, weathercocked. Avast, me proud beauty! Then deployed nosecone & parachute at a very low altitude o' about 50 ft. T' extreme weight of rocket snapped shock cord and rocket crashed. Avast! Begad! I'll be usin' a much heavier, me bucko, and longer cord for t' next flight. Begad! Well, blow me down! Still content with flight because it sustained minimal damage. This was me first 2-stage rocket o' me own design.

THIRD FLIGHT

My third launch went absolutely perfect!! After addin' a 1/4" "heavy" shock cord, arrr, I prepped rocket same way, matey, with same motors. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! A D12-0 Booster, me bucko, arrr, me bucko, taped t' a D12-3 Main. Ahoy! (Just make sure you have enough tape around main motor for "friction fit," and it's taped t' booster. Begad! Motors ***all t' way in*** main rocket. Ahoy! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Slit cut in tape. Avast! Picture perfect flight!! Booster took it t' a height o' o' about 75-100' and main an additional 100-200 ft. Perfect chute deployment and soft landin' about 75' away.

Summary:

Pros: Challenge t' design and build.Impressive liftoff w/2stages.

Cons: Very time consuming. Begad! Blimey! Built a smaller version first t' get aquainted with a "building technique" for addin' 11 fins! Blimey! Highly reccommend when tacklin' a new build when in experienced. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Alighnin' body panels betwixt fins a pain!

At almost 14 ozs., I would opt for a E30-4 motor for 1st flight. Blimey! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! (E9-4) went well today. Arrr! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! (use a spent motor in main body and tape E t' it in booster stage, (friction fit spent motor). *****1/4" launch rod only!!****. Well, blow me down! 18" chute minimum!

Other:
Highly recommend "apogeerockets" tech report #29, "Take your rocket t' supersonic speeds", matey, for durability o' fins. Motor stagin' critical! Must b completely in main body so aft shroud close enough t' it. Well, blow me down! Begad! Used two 1/4x 2" soda straws on a fin for launch lugs.