Brief:
11 "Finned" rocket that can be launched on a single "E" or staged (D12-0, D12-3) with a parachute recovery.

Prototype:
I built a protoype o' me choice o' rockets for t' EMRR "Rockets o' t' Future." I choose t' t' do an 18mm version first. Well, blow me down! I gathered some cardboard, me bucko, shiver me timbers, posterboard, ya bilge rat, and second hand parts, me hearties, etc. Avast! It would have been ten times harder without t' EMRR "Calculators", ya bilge rat, arrr, for shrouds, ya bilge rat, etc. Avast! I chose cardboard figuring, arrr, "If I can get this t' fly without a cad program, from t' heaviest material, I surely will be able t' build one in t' 24 MM scale. Begad! Also, cardboard a little easier t' work with than "foamboard."

My 1st test flight was a disaster. Ahoy! (Remember, matey, I have no software t' determine where t' CP & CG Is and if it will fly.) After givin' it some thought, cut open nosecone and added some clay t' move CG forward. Begad! Begad! Last Saturday flew it again and success! It only went 50 ft up but successfully deployed chute right before landing. Begad!

What I've learned is,"use t' material in your prototype, me bucko, that u intend t' use on your final version." Mine did fly but, matey, would have saved a lot o' aggravation and speeded up t' build. Begad! Ya scallywag! Also, arrr, me bucko, ya bilge rat, Highly recommended buildin' a prototype, arrr, especially in me case. Arrr! My submission for t' "rocket o' t' future" has 12 fins! Never came close t' design such a complex rocket before. Arrr!

Construction:

PARTS LIST:

• 24mm engine block
• 1 engine hooks
• 1 sheet o' foam board, 20x30x1/4"
• 2 sheets o' poster board, 20x30"
• 1 (priority mailin' box)
• 2 BT-55's (15" long)
• 1 BT-55 coupler
• 18"x24mm Body tube for "engine Mounts"
• Shock cord; ¼"x 24+"
• 3, 4"x"36"x1/8 balsa sheets/basswood
• 1 "quest" egglofter nosecone
• 1 (18") parachute, & shroud line
• "non-hardening" clay
• (8) bic pen caps t' "simulate 8 motors"
• 2 spent "D" engines
• Templates (will be loaded shortly)

Just wanted t' interject for a moment. Blimey! Hope you find this rocket as much o' a challenge t' build as I found to design it, without t' help o' any "Cad software." If anyone cares t' "plug" these measurements into a cad program, I would be very curious as t' t' result. I did use EMRR "Calculators" for t' shrouds and centerin' rings. I thank Nick for makin' available because without them, me bucko, matey, shiver me timbers, couldn't have made this design.

This design is for "Personal use only" and nay for resale, with express permission o' myself, shiver me timbers, Glenn Roth.

I stated in "parts" section that t' balsa is very fragile. Ahoy! Just discovered Tech Report # 29, from www.apogeerockets.com; "Take your rocket t' Supersonic Speeds. Ahoy! Aye aye! " This is a compromise t' replacin' entire fin with basswood or ply. Blimey! Aye aye! You can download this free report and make these large fins MUCH STRONGER! I tried this on 3 of me fins and they are NOTICEABLY stronger.

ASSEMBLY:

Read thru all instructions before proceeding. Ya scallywag! Options exist. Avast, me proud beauty!

**Not happy with way main "body shroud" turned out. This "posterboard" is hard t' keep smooth without "kinking." You might want t' A) shorten t' about half t' length; b) wrap it around a smooth form of some kind while gluing, arrr, t' keep smooth.**

1. Gather parts, shiver me timbers, make templates, and gather followin' tools: sharp razor knife, metal ruler, shiver me timbers, arrr, scissors, matey, carpenters square, shiver me timbers, 2 "spent D" engines, me hearties, adhesive spray, shiver me timbers, (worn out windshield wiper. Avast! Avast! For engine hooks)., protractor, matey, and compass. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!
2. Cut two engine mounts from 24mm body tube. Avast! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Main 2 " long and "booster" 3 1/2" long.*****note: Now that t' rocket is half done, t' shroud looks too short. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I have increased length from 3 t' 3 ½ inches or longer, in instructions. Well, blow me down! Blimey! You'll have increase length o' shroud accordingly.****
   • *** OPTION: I've since elected t' use a "friction fit", instead o' an engine hook, on main motor. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I'm sure you can use one but, have t' "dry fit" b 4 assembly.*** I've discovered that with t' aft "body panels", extendin' an inch, matey, it's very difficult t' use an engine hook. Begad! Begad! I've since elected t' slip "main motor" into booster engine mount, me bucko, and tape. Aye aye! T' tape will require a "slit" into it, me bucko, arrr, so makes easy separation.
3. Glue 24mm engine block into end o' engine tube w/engine hook stickin' into it.
   • Option*** This designed as a "two stage". Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! If you want an easier conversion t' single stage, you may want t' insert "booster engine tube" in a section o' BT-55. Then usin' a BT-55 coupler, fasten t' engine tubes together. Blimey! (skip 1st /main engine tube.) It is much easier buildin' booster shroud separately. Arrr! Avast!

Main Engine Tube

1. Glue t' BT55 centerin' rings on main engine tube. Ahoy! Let dry.
2. You'll want t' "dry fit" main engine mount and make sure "spent engine" recessed inside BT55 about ¼".
3. Mark Bt55 where "engine Hook" will be, me bucko, me bucko, and cut a slot 1/8" x3/8". Avast, me proud beauty!
4. Glue main engine mount with engine hook lined up with slot in BT55. Begad!

Booster Engine Mount

1. Take 3" piece o' 24mm BT; then cut 1/8"x 3/8" slot in one end. Begad! Blimey!
2. Lay "flat" side o' hook inline with slot and tape. *** I used a long piece o' old wiper blade for hook and cut t' length later. Ya scallywag!
3. Cut out 3 "rear shroud centerin' rings. Begad! ***Tip: when I cut out middle o' rings FIRST, arrr, me hearties, I then took a spent engine and inserted and twisted t' check for a tight fit. Ahoy! Begad! Then inserted engine in tube for support. Avast!
4. Take largest aft rin' and glue over aft engine mount WITHOUT coverin' slot in t' mount. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Be careful nay t' get glue on motor!!
5. Glue middle and end centerin' rings and remove spent motor and let dry.
6. While drying, cut out aft shroud. Aye aye! Avast! (You will see I include pattern, shiver me timbers, showin' a "saw tooth design" on inside radius o' shroud. Cut design in shroud. Blimey! Begad! Much easier t' glue.)
7. Shape shroud, matey, tape together on inside.
8. Fold "teeth" over t' inside and make a sharp crease. Well, blow me down! Straighten out. Blimey!
9. After center rings on engine tube have dried, take some glue and apply t' edges o' rings. Arrr!
10. Take shroud and slip over engine assembly. Arrr! Begad! Be sure t' get completely in.
11. Spread some glue on smallest centerin' rin' and fold shroud "teeth" down, arrr, holdin' till set. You may only be able t' do a few @ a time. Let dry Thoroughly.
12. Put a spent engine in "Main and aft " engine mounts. Begad!
13. Slide together, me hearties, linin' up "slots" in engine tubes. T' aft engine tube should slide over t' Main engine about ½" and stay in place. Arrr! ***Make sure aft Booster engine is as far forward as it will go WITHOUT disengagin' t' booster.
14. Mark t' aft engine hook , cut and bend t' correct size. Well, blow me down! Ahoy!
15. Cut shock cord mount and glue shock cord t' it. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
16. Slide "loose" end o' shock cord thru a BT55 coupler. Ahoy!
17. Glue Shock cord mount t' inside o' BT55 containin' engine mount far enough inside t' be able t' glue BT55 coupler. Aye aye! Glue Bt55 coupler and let dry.
18. Cut other BT55 t' length so when t' two r put together , me hearties, you have a rocket body 23" long, "without" aft shroud. Aye aye! Well, blow me down!
19. Cut out Main Body centerin' rings. (u can take spare piece o' BT55 t' check fit).
20. Take t' "fin template" and mark 3", ya bilge rat, 3.5" rin' where it will engage each fin. Blimey! Begad! ****Note: you can mark 4" rin' but, because o' size, me bucko, arrr, it won't line up with other two rings. You will have t' do slots on this rin' once it is mounted. Begad! Avast!
21. Take care, cut a ¼" deep slot x 1/8" wide into each ring. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey!
22. Mark 1st slot on each rin' with a #1 for reference. Aye aye! Blimey!
23. Make a fin from 1/8" "Basewood/plywood" as a guide t' check fit o' fins. It will also b used t' as guide for slots, me hearties, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and cut initial fin slots in 4" ring.
    • ***You may want t' fasten up aft shroud again w/spent motors t' check placement o' centerin' rings and fins.***

Fins and Body:

1. Cut out 8 fins, and use sealer if desired. Avast!
2. Use fine guide and cut slots in each fin: 1" from aft o' fin, matey, 1x1/4 deep. Ya scallywag! Avast! Next one 7" from end. Well, blow me down!
3. Last slot is 2.5 " from previous slot and only 5/8" deep. Begad! Begad!
4. These r initial slots. Aye aye! Avast! You may have t' widen for proper fit. Ahoy!
5. Slide center rings on BT one @ a time. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! ***If seems tight or binds, increase size o' hole slightly. Ya scallywag! You can use a piece o' BT55 t' "shape" hole. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! (you want t' maintain a fairly tight fit). Arrr!
6. Space rings approximately same distance as slots on fin. Ya scallywag!
7. "Orientate" all 3 rings with #1's lined up. Ya scallywag! Arrr!
8. Take your "Guide Fin", arrr, ( t' one made from plywood), and check slot lineup for first fin. Avast, me proud beauty!
9. You'll have t' cut slots deeper in each ring, checkin' fit each time. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! You may nay even need a slots for 4" ring, till ready t' glue on fins, ya bilge rat, due t' a "redesign", and linin' up o' fin with "center ring slots," I made for simplicity. Begad! Blimey! (make recess higher, about 1 ¼"). Blimey!
10. After you get a good fit for t' fine on t' center rings, shiver me timbers, take a "real" fin and glue in #1 slots of rings. Avast! (I kept breakin' balsa fins, that why I recommended goin' t' a sturdier material, me bucko, such as basswood or Tims Tech report #29, gluin' "notebook paper" t' exterior o' fin first for strength). Ya scallywag! Blimey!
11. Take guide fin and check next set o' slot, adjustin' for correct fit.
12. Then glue 3 center rings in place. Aye aye! Blimey!
13. Glue all 8 fins in place, matey, checkin' fit first with "guide fin".
14. Cut out two "body templates". Make a slice at end o' each one ¼-3/4" deep, matey, 1" from end on each side. Fold over @ slices and straighten out. Ahoy!
15. Dependin' upon which set o' fins you start with, ya bilge rat, will determine what size template t' use, medium or large. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty!
16. Lay template betwixt fins, and gently push down. It should hang out rear, me bucko, betwixt fins 1", matey, me bucko, ya bilge rat, up to "slices."
17. Check front o' template and mark where template extends past fin. Ya scallywag!
18. Cut on t' mark, matey, down t' ¼" fold mark on each side. Avast! Cut a "saw tooth" pattern in sides of body templates. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Makes for easier gluin' and smoothin' out. Blimey! ***see photo"***
19. Before gluin' fins, I made "fin supports," ½" x 1 ¼", me bucko, and glue betwixt ends of fins. Begad! Also, arrr, arrr, made a bevel on each end. Blimey! **See photo**
20. Glue in place and repeat for each set o' fins. ***remember t' check fit! Blimey! (Center on BT) too. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' aft o' body template should be about ½-3/4" above body and aft shroud. Avast!
21. Cut out "body templates," with "saw-tooth" design on edges and glue betwixt fins.
22. Main Body Shroud: As I stated in beginning, matey, me bucko, nay happy with t' way this one turned out. Begad! Ahoy! You may want t' shorten or find a different material or wrap around a "form" t' keep smooth. Ya scallywag! Also, me hearties, use same "saw-tooth" design for edges before gluin' in shape o' cone. Once glue, shiver me timbers, matey, let DRY THOROUGHLY.
23. I fitted over main body tube t' fins. I marked where touched fins and cut slits about 1" long, in shroud. Keep fittin' till you get a tight fit into slots, me hearties, then glue and let dry thoroughly. Begad! Arrr!
24. Now comes a tricky part. Begad! Seams that r formed betwixt "fins, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, body templates, me hearties, main shroud have t' be "filled." I opted t' use "Elmers wood filler" and nay happy with result. Blimey! Friend recommended these tiny silicone beads you mix w/epoxy. Avast, me proud beauty! Strong, ya bilge rat, me hearties, light, and easy t' sand after hardened. Avast, me proud beauty!
25. After seams dry, matey, sand till smooth. Aye aye! Aye aye!

Nosecone Fins:

1. Looking @ picture o' t' rocket I was copying, "upper fins" aren't really in nosecone but, I liked this location better. Begad! Aye aye! Blimey! (You can opt t' move out o' nosecone, me hearties, matey, down body a few inches in "same configuration.)
2. Cut slits in nose cone ½" from end o' "open" nosecone, about 2" long and 3/16-1/4" wide. ** b careful nay t' cut all t' way thru t' end o' nosecone**. Aye aye! Ahoy! I mounted a piece o' 1" aluminum angle iron t' a piece o' wood and clamped t' me table as a guide. Aye aye!
3. Fit fins in slots one @ a time, ya bilge rat, trimmin' slots till fins fit. Remove fins and put a ball o' clay in tip of nosecone and press into place. Arrr!
4. Replace fins 1 @ a time til they "touch" in middle o' nosecone and glue. Begad! (I opted for "gorilla glue" type). Ya scallywag! It foams up and becomes very strong). Let dry. Aye aye! Begad!

Nose Cone:

1. Keep addin' balls o' clay, me hearties, matey, fillin' void in nosecone, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and pressin' into place. ****remember t' allow room for end o' nose cone t' slide in.****
2. Also, as you r fillin' void, assemble nosecone and check for CG with motors in main and booster BT's. Aye aye! Blimey! (goin' to take a few ounces o' clay t' fill and balance rocket so CG approx. Blimey! Blimey! in middle.)
3. Once clay pressed into place and you r satisfied w/location o' CG, assemble nosecone. Avast!

Finishing:

1. Get 8 "regular" bic pen caps and cut off "pocket clip."
2. Paint rocket color o' preference. Ya scallywag!
3. After you r sure you have color o' rocket and finished painting, sand a flat spot on each "pen cap," and glue in place betwixt each fin above booster shroud. Begad! (These pen caps simulate 8 motors o' rocket). Aye aye!
4. Prep rocket and you r ready t' fly. Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down!
5. I would rate this build a 5++. Ya scallywag! Very difficult. Avast! Ahoy!

Flight:

My first flight be very successful. Well, blow me down! Avast! I used a E9-4. Arrr!

Preparation a little different than usual but, easy. Begad! After loadin' an 18" parachute, matey, shiver me timbers, dusted with baby powder, and t' wadding, me bucko, I loaded t' engine. Begad! Blimey! I loaded it into t' booster from t' "inside." (T' E9 is a much longer motor than t' D.) Then I applied a little maskin' tape t' t' end for a "friction fit," and inserted it into main rocket body. Avast, me proud beauty! It flew great! Relatively straight for t' design, 11 fins, and t' weight. Ya scallywag!

T' shock cord, attached t' rocket, was Keelhaul®©™. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Then an elastic, tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™, which proved t' b t' weak. (will explain in next flight). Ya scallywag!

Parachute deployed perfectly and landed about 30 yards away. Ahoy!

SECOND FLIGHT

Another story. Begad! Begad! Blimey! I designed this rocket t' be an optional 2-stage. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! I prepped t' parachute t' same way. Then taped t' booster, a D12-0, t' t' main motor, matey, me hearties, ya bilge rat, a D12-3, with scotch tape, ya bilge rat, and put a small slit in it, me hearties, t' help with separation. Aye aye! Blimey! Once motors finished, I loaded it in booster stage first, from t' "inside." Then added some maskin' tape t' t' main motor and "friction fit" it into main rocket. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! For whatever reason I couldn't get motors all t' way in t' main rocket body. Begad! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! ( I believe I used too much tape). Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! At launch, it flew down range, weathercocked. Then deployed nosecone & parachute at a very low altitude o' about 50 ft. Begad! Avast! Blimey! T' extreme weight of rocket snapped shock cord and rocket crashed. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! I'll be usin' a much heavier, matey, and longer cord for t' next flight. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Still content with flight because it sustained minimal damage. This was me first 2-stage rocket o' me own design.

THIRD FLIGHT

My third launch went absolutely perfect!! After addin' a 1/4" "heavy" shock cord, matey, I prepped rocket same way, with same motors. A D12-0 Booster, ya bilge rat, taped t' a D12-3 Main. (Just make sure you have enough tape around main motor for "friction fit," and it's taped t' booster. Begad! Motors ***all t' way in*** main rocket. Slit cut in tape. Picture perfect flight!! Booster took it t' a height o' o' about 75-100' and main an additional 100-200 ft. Perfect chute deployment and soft landin' about 75' away. Ahoy!

Summary:

Pros: Challenge t' design and build.Impressive liftoff w/2stages.

Cons: Very time consuming. Avast! Built a smaller version first t' get aquainted with a "building technique" for addin' 11 fins! Highly reccommend when tacklin' a new build when in experienced. Alighnin' body panels betwixt fins a pain!

At almost 14 ozs., I would opt for a E30-4 motor for 1st flight. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! (E9-4) went well today. Arrr! Blimey! (use a spent motor in main body and tape E t' it in booster stage, (friction fit spent motor). *****1/4" launch rod only!!****. Blimey! Blimey! 18" chute minimum!

Other:
Highly recommend "apogeerockets" tech report #29, "Take your rocket t' supersonic speeds", for durability o' fins. Begad! Motor stagin' critical! Must b completely in main body so aft shroud close enough t' it. Used two 1/4x 2" soda straws on a fin for launch lugs.