Brief:
This be t' new Semroc A10-0T booster unit for t' Centurion, me bucko, me bucko, shiver me timbers, Vega, me hearties, and Goliath rockets. Begad! It is meant for existing, single stage rockets usin' t' ST-16 (old Centuri style) body tubes. Begad! Ahoy! It will be interestin' t' stage a 13mm booster t' a 18mm sustainer. Arrr! I've never used a lower powered booster (A10) with a higher powered sustainer (B6 or C6, a A8 is also listed as a sustainer engine).

Construction:
T' booster kit consists of:

• 1 Body Tube ST-825
• 1 Engine Tube ST-520E
• 1 Rin' Coupler HTC-16S
• 1 Rin' Set CR-EM-516
• 1 Engine Hook EH-18
• 1 Shroud Sheet IEM-516B

All parts are pretty much standard except for t' centerin' rings. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! T' laser cuts are tight and clean. Begad! T' centerin' rings for t' ST-5 series engine tube have eight elliptical holes cut into them. Begad! I would assume this is for ventin' while staging. Blimey! Read through t' directions before building. Well, blow me down! With two shrouds and four centerin' rings, me bucko, me bucko, ya bilge rat, take it slow and follow directions.

I reinforced all t' tube ends with Super Glue.

STEP 3: I sanded t' tube coupler's ends flat and square with a sandin' block. Begad! I wanted t' (slightly) increase t' gluin' surface.

STEP 5: T' small centerin' rings (with t' eight holes) fit too loosely on t' 5 series engine tube. Arrr! Begad! I build up t' inside edge o' t' rin' with some "rings" o' white glue. Blimey! T' instructions suggest usin' CA t' glue them in place. Ya scallywag! T' instructions suggest: "Make sure t' keep glue out o' t' holes". Ya scallywag! You would have t' use a Teflon tube out t' front o' your CA bottle t' control t' flow. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' holes are very close t' t' body tube/rin' joint.

I was reluctant t' apply a thin film o' CA around t' rin' edges before punchin' out t' holes. I was afraid t' glue would get into t' holes. Blimey! Blimey! I punched out t' holes, then applied glue t' t' edges o' t' rings.

T' instructions say "A thin film o' CA around all t' rin' edges harden them and keep them from de-layering. Begad! After I easily punched out t' holes, I noticed outside layer o' t' rin' was startin' t' peel. Avast, me proud beauty! T' CA layer held down t' liftin' layer.

STEP 6: Says t' slide t' engine mount inside t' body tube until t' end with t' hook is even with t' body tube. Blimey! T' hook will over hang slightly. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! It just didn't read well. Aye aye! Begad! I know they meant that t' engine tube should be even with t' outside (larger diameter) tube. T' hook overhangs more than slightly, me hearties, it overhangs by 1/4".

STEP 8: Normally I hate paper shrouds. Blimey! Avast! Hate paper shrouds! T' shroud material was glossy on one side and matte on t' other.

I wanted t' printed lines on t' inside, so t' glossy surface ended up on t' outside. Begad! For once, these paper shrouds glued together without any problems. Aye aye! I pre-curled them over a thick Sharpie pen barrel. Arrr! One thin coat o' white glue was enough for t' glue tab t' hold well.

T' paper used for t' shroud went together smoothly, me hearties, with no bumps or bends. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! But when glued together, arrr, arrr, t' seams were opposite. Ya scallywag! Blimey! One upper-smaller shroud overlaid t' t' right, shiver me timbers, t' lower shroud tab laid t' t' left. Begad! There wasn't any other way t' correct this unless I would make one shroud with t' gloss surface out, me hearties, me bucko, t' other with t' matte paper side out. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! Nay really a big deal. Begad! Avast! Blimey! But, arrr, (on one shroud pattern) Semroc may want t' switch t' side t' tab sits on.

Both shrouds fit well. Aye aye! I had t' widen t' mouth o' t' larger shroud slightly t' fit over t' ST-8 main tube. It's nay a fault o' t' shroud pattern, paper shrouds always seem t' need a little adjustment.

Finishing:
Even without paint, t' finished look is great! On me Centurion t' booster extends 1 1/4" beyond t' trailin' edges o' t' fins, me bucko, but it still looks cool. Blimey! And structurally it feels strong.

With t' gloss paper surface on t' outside, ya bilge rat, I really don't have t' paint it. Aye aye! But t' exposed browned edge o' t' upper centerin' rin' will need a touch up.

I enjoyed t' build. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! It's nice when t' shrouds cooperate.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
With t' engines installed and t' booster unit in place, t' engines ends are separated by about 3/8". Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I tested t' fit with a A10-0T in t' Booster 16 and a C6-5 in me Centurion.

Summary:
PROS: A fun build and t' shrouds cooperated for once!

CONS: When built, matey, t' shroud tabs face opposite sides. One goes t' t' right, t' other t' t' left.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5