Brief:
In anticipation o' Estes' announced re-release o' A10-0 motors, me bucko, me bucko, Semroc has released a CHAD booster stage designed to fit rockets utilizin' their series 16 body tubes. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! One o' t' named rockets be t' Semroc Centurion and I decided to give me Centurion a booster.

Construction:
T' kit consists o' a pair o' paper shrouds, an engine hook, a motor tube, shiver me timbers, a body tube, a pair o' centerin' rings, and a series 16 coupler tube.

Construction begins by cuttin' out t' 2 transition shrouds from t' provided piece o' cardstock. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' outlines are marked and its just a matter o' bein' careful with t' scissors. Aye aye! Blimey! Once they are cut out, matey, they are given a bit o' a roll. White glue was then applied sparingly t' t' marked tabs and t' ends were pressed together and set aside t' dry.

Next up, arrr, t' larger o' t' two centerin' rings is carefully punched out. Arrr! Contained in its center, is a smaller centerin' rin' for use with t' motor mount. Blimey! Aye aye! This was carefully removed and set aside.

T' couplin' tube was set down on t' centerin' rin' and centered so that an even but very small bit o' rin' was exposed all t' way around. Avast! Ya scallywag! White glue was then used t' tack down t' coupler from t' inside. Begad! Begad! When t' tacks were stiff, matey, white glue was used t' fillet all around t' circumference.

T' motor mount be installed in t' body tube by t' simple expedient o' pushin' it in and alignin' t' aft ends o' t' tubes. T' mount was installed with white glue.

T' centerin' rin' with t' coupler tube attached was slid onto t' body tube on t' end opposite t' engine hook and aligned so that it was straight and flush with t' end. Begad! It was sealed in place with white glue and allowed t' dry. Fillets were run around both sides o' t' ring.

After t' coupler/tube joint had a day t' set, it was time t' start installin' t' transitions. Well, blow me down! T' short one went on first and slid down t' t' coupler rin' without any problem. It be seated with white glue and allowed to stiffen up some.

After a bit, arrr, t' other transition was test fit. Blimey! While t' first one fit just fine, shiver me timbers, t' second, arrr, longer one was a tougher case. Aye aye! I needed t' sand away some o' t' smaller end in order t' get it t' fit over t' tube. When I did get it on, I lined its seam up with that on t' other transition and both were aligned with t' engine hook. Ya scallywag! White glue was again used t' set it in place.

T' last remainin' centerin' rin' was punched out o' its backin' and slid over t' motor mount inside t' bell of the after transition. Arrr! When it be even, me bucko, arrr, white glue be again used t' fasten it and t' whole thin' be glazed over from the inside with more white glue.

When t' glue had set a little more, I took t' booster and tried t' give it a trial fit into t' base o' the Centurion. It be tight and will need some more sanding, particularly t' get past some o' t' glue rivets I had originally installed. Begad! Blimey! That would have t' wait for another session though because duty called.

When I got back t' work, me bucko, I used a combination o' #100 sandpaper and a rat tail file t' smooth out t' aft end of the ST16 tube o' t' Centurion. Ya scallywag! Blimey! After a few fits and starts, t' booster fit in just fine.

PROs: Easy t' build.

CONs: None.

Finishing:
I masked off t' coupler tube and then proceeded t' prime t' booster with Kilz.

When t' Kilz was dry, ya bilge rat, I be somewhat surprised t' see that it did nay need much sanding. Arrr! Blimey! Usually its a bit blobby and speckly but that be nay t' case this time and after a single token swipe o' #600 sandpaper, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I went right to t' painting. Blimey! T' recommended color is a gray but t' only gray I had on hand was automotive primer and that's not what I wanted. Avast, me proud beauty! I finally settled on a flaky metallic silver that looks more in keepin' with a rocket nozzle t' me. Begad! It took two coats.

I removed t' maskin' from around t' stage coupler and liked what I saw o' t' silvered nozzle but did nay care too much for t' glarin' white o' t' inside. Blimey! I wanted t' do somethin' about it even though it would rarely be visible.

I decided t' hand paint t' white with a Tamiya bronze paint. Begad! Blimey! It took 2 coats and could probably have used a third for more even coverage, ya bilge rat, but I'm happy with it.

PROs: Easy t' finish, looks good.

CONs: None.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
T' only recommended motor for t' booster be t' A10-0. Blimey! I loaded one and put an A8-3 in t' sustainer. Avast! Begad! It was a windy day but I had waited too long and had t' push t' button.

T' booster worked perfectly. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! It staged at a low altitude and was readily visible. Begad! Avast! Blimey! Unfortunately, shiver me timbers, t' sustainer motor had less oomph than it should have and t' rocket arced over. It ejected on t' ground. Even so, ya bilge rat, thar was no damage and t' booster was easily found.

A video o' t' flight can be found here.

Because o' t' wind, I decided nay t' fly it again that day but will be doin' so in t' future.

PROs: Stagin' that works at a height where it can be seen.

CONs: Estes may nay make good on its promise t' re-release t' A10-0.

Recovery:
T' booster is tumble recovery. Blimey! It falls down and you pick it up. Ya scallywag! It works.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a great product that fills an under served niche. I hope it will long be available and would like t' add one to some o' me other Semroc Rockets.

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5