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T' Aerotech Strong Arm rocket is a mid power rocket designed for "E" through "G" impulse motors. Blimey! Blimey! It is a sleeker version o' t' ARM-78 STARM and is on retail for about $70. I found it on sale for about $50, and couldn't resist. Avast! Blimey! This will be me first "real" mid power kit and me first good rocket t' get t' use reloadable motors on.
T' kit comes in one o' Aerotech's cardboard boxes. Arrr! It looks a little small for a rocket o' this size, but everythin' fit in just fine. T' parts are also laid out so that t' small pieces don’t rattle around inside and damage any o' t' other parts (and thar are a lot o' parts). Begad! T' first thin' I did was lay t' components flat on a table. Begad! T' instructions were rolled up in one o' t' body tubes, me bucko, and so were t' decals, and I recommend takin' those out too. Arrr! Included in t' box were:
Each and every part was o' t' best quality and durability that Aerotech is praised for. Begad! T' only problem was a slight warp in t' nose cone.
Buildin' started with a roll call. Aye aye! Blimey! I wanted t' make sure that everythin' was accounted for and that nothin' was bent, crumpled, shiver me timbers, or damaged. I highly recommend doin' this with EVERY rocket you build. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! You should always check t' quality o' t' components before buildin' so that it can be replaced or fixed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! If thar be a weak link in t' structure, ya bilge rat, bad things can happen. Avast! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I don't expect this from Aerotech, shiver me timbers, but thar have been several reports about problems with t' nose cones.
Another thin' everyone should do before buildin' is t' STUDY t' instructions. Begad! Aerotech has pretty good instructions and t' steps are in a logical order, but some o' t' illustrations could be better.
T' actual buildin' started with t' adapter (build this first because it will be used t' push back t' thrust rin' and flange). Well, blow me down! Afterwards, arrr, measurements are taken on t' motor mount and t' motor hook is inserted through a 1/4" slot that you cut. Ya scallywag! T' thrust rin' and flange are now glued together and pushed up until it butts up against t' back o' t' motor hook. Ya scallywag! Avast! Aerotech says t' cement them in place, matey, but I decided against it since t' fit betwixt t' rin' and tube is so tight and t' hook is so long that it's hard t' glue anythin' in place at all.
Now comes t' challenging, ya bilge rat, part-the FIN-LOC rings. Avast, me proud beauty! They are so tight that t' front 1/8" o' me motor tube us torn and t' layers o' paper are separated. Avast! T' get them into place, ya bilge rat, I suggest gently tappin' them into place with a rubber mallet or small hammer.
What comes next is super important. DO NOT glue t' FIN-LOC rings in place until you have test fitted t' fins and they fit properly. Aye aye! Blimey! Slide t' centerin' rin' into place and make sure it does nay interfere with t' fin placement, then remove t' fins and glue t' FIN-LOC rings and middle centerin' rin' in place. Avast! Blimey! I used Gorilla Devcon 30 minute epoxy throughout t' motor mount assembly (because most super glues will deform t' plastic and because I had never used liquid epoxy before).
T' only problem I came across be t' epoxy takin' half an hour t' set. Ahoy! It runs like syrup. Begad! I simply kept rotatin' t' assembly and everythin' worked fine. In t' future, I will use 5-minute epoxy.
Now you make four 1/4" slits at t' top o' t' assembly that are 90 degrees apart, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, stretch out t' coolin' mesh, arrr, and cement t' baffle in place. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Unfortunately, ya bilge rat, I made a stupid mistake and glued in t' baffle before I inserted t' mesh. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! After about 5 minutes o' wonderin' what t' do, I ended up cuttin' away t' first 1" o' t' tube, shiver me timbers, peelin' t' paper away from t' baffle, insertin' t' mesh, me bucko, replacin' t' baffle, and gluin' it in place with t' front centerin' rin' over that.
Tie t' shock cord t' t' screw eye and screw that into t' baffle. T' whole assembly is then inserted into t' lower body tube and t' fins are snapped into place so that t' assembly doesn’t move. Avast! Arrr! Now t' whole thin' is glued into place, and t' fins are removed and tacked down, matey, both at t' root edge and where t' fin tab meets t' motor mount.
Then insert t' last centerin' rin' and add t' launch lugs, me bucko, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and t' bottom half is finished!
Now comes t' coupler. Well, blow me down! I highly suggest test fittin' t' coupler, sanding, and test fittin' again until it is snug, but still slides in easy enough so that t' glue doesn’t grab before t' coupler is in all t' way. When all was said and done, me hearties, thar be still a 3/32 gap betwixt t' two tubes, so i filled and sanded it down with two-part epoxy clay from Apogee. T' rocket was then set aside t' dry overnight.
Now is where t' strakes come into play. Blimey! T' strakes need t' be shaped by hand, me bucko, and that can be a bit o' a challenge. Make several shallow passes with a new razor knife close t' t' lines that you draw onto t' plastic. Aye aye! Then sand down t' last little bit and wipe away t' dust and any remainin' flash. Ahoy! Here is where I found t' one, and only, shiver me timbers, gotcha. Avast, me proud beauty! There is a wrap (similar t' an Estes fin wrap) that marks where t' strakes go. T' problem is that t' launch lugs are already glued on. Ahoy! T' avoid this, either use a straight edge, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, or wait t' put on t' lugs.
Draw t' lines at least 6" past t' lower body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Now glue on t' strakes.
Next tie t' parachute t' t' shock cord and tie t' shock cord t' t' nose cone. Aye aye! Blimey! T' assembly is done!
Finishin' on this rocket wasn't all that bad.
T' first thin' that I worked on was t' nose cone. Aye aye! Blimey! It didn't come out perfect, shiver me timbers, but it could be a lot worse. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' first thin' I did was wash it (you can use a clean rag) and lightly sand around t' seams with 220 grit sandpaper. Blimey! Blimey! I filled in t' seams with CA and sanded it down again. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I repeated these steps until t' surface was smooth.
Paintin' be a breeze. I applied several light coats o' primer and sanded with 220 grit. This posed a problem, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, however. Aye aye! I wasn't usin' 320 grit sandpaper and t' paint on t' nose chipped off in several long streaks. I decided t' go with it and used 150 grit t' get all o' t' paint off o' t' nose cone. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! I repainted it and, matey, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, from that point on, used only 320 grit sandpaper. Blimey! Sandin' t' tubes around t' strakes and lugs was easy but it took time t' do well.
After a few more coats and some more sanding, matey, I masked off t' body tubes and painted t' nose cone silver. Avast, me proud beauty! Two coats and it was done.
Here’s a trick for painting: BEFORE t' paint completely dries, remove t' maskin' tape t' reveal crisp clean paint lines. Usin' low-tack tape also helps t' keep t' paint you masked off from comin' off with t' tape.
Paintin' for me took about two days because o' t' lighter coats, me bucko, matey, but it be worth it.
Here comes t' hardest part o' finishin' t' rocket: t' decals. Aye aye! They are nay pre-cut and they take time t' cut out correctly. Blimey! Ahoy! I used a pair o' sharp scissors and a paper cutter I found in t' basement. Ahoy! Ahoy! There were no snags on t' decals and they turned out fine. Begad! Applyin' them is pretty straightforward. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Afterwards, shiver me timbers, I applied a gloss clear coat and t' rocket is complete!
Or be it...
I was less than satisfied with some o' t' decals because they weren't stayin' down. Avast! I took t' flat end o' me razor knife and pressed them down and smartly applied some clear nail polish. Aye aye! Ahoy! It works just like a clear coat, but only for small areas.
I have flown this rocket once on an Aerotech reloadable E28-4t usin' t' 24/40 casing. Well, blow me down! Begad! One o' t' great things about Aerotech kits is that no waddin' is required. Begad! All that you have t' do do is t' pack in t' shock cord and parachute. Begad! Aye aye! T' motor lit on t' first try, and boost was faster than I thought it would be. It probably got t' about 550'. Begad! Begad! T' four-second delay is perfect for this rocket, me hearties, and deployment was at apogee. Begad! T' parachute opened within t' first half o' a second after t' ejection charge went off.
T' rocket was was t' spot due t' t' bright yellow 30" nylon parachute. Aye aye! T' parachute came out and opened fully without any tanglin' or snaggin' on t' shroud lines. Aye aye! It seemed t' come down at t' right speed, but perhaps a little on t' fast side. Avast! Since thar be a light breeze on t' ground and no thermals, ya bilge rat, t' rocket landed about 50 yards from t' pad, arrr, and nothin' was broken. Avast! T' rocket was in perfect condition and flyable as was.
I love this rocket. Avast! Ahoy! It is an easy way t' start usin' mid-power motors, both single use and reloadable. Begad! Begad! T' retail price might seem high t' some, but it be worth it. T' rocket is built like a tank, and is a pleasure t' build. Arrr! It only takes an afternoon t' build and a day or two t' paint, so it be t' perfect kit if your launch date is soon. Well, blow me down! I can't wait t' fly this rocket again, me bucko, and will soon buy another kit from Aerotech.
Brief: Aerotech's take on the often modeled Navy Standard ARM is the "Strong ARM". It's not a particularly close scale rendition, but the result is good looking and well suited to F and G motors, particularly the EconoJets. There's a bit more to build in this kit than in the Aerotech Initiator or Mustang, but not so much that builders new to mid-power should be scared ...
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