| Manufacturer: | Estes ![]() |
![[Rocket Pic]](images/archive/images_est/rp_est_longshot_short.jpg)
All around, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, a very impressive model rocket, arrr, probably still me favorite. Ya scallywag! It's sheer size gets attention. Begad! Ya scallywag! My orange/yellow/orange paint scheme gets attention. And when that second stage lights, it really gets attention... Ahoy! if it lights, shiver me timbers, me hearties, that is.
Construction was, ya bilge rat, as I recall, simple and straightforward, despite bein' only me second rocket. Sure, matey, it's big and it's a two-stager, arrr, but thar's no construction magic in that. Blimey! With t' fins bein' one-piece plastic fin units with built-in launch lugs, about all you have t' do is build t' motor mounts and shock cord mounts, and then assemble t' all t' pieces you see. Very easy and very straightforward.
Bein' only t' second rocket I ever built, me bucko, I be extremely excited t' launch it that first day. Blimey! I was a bit nervous about that 48" crepe paper streamer givin' a slow enough descent, so I bought an Estes plastic 18" hexagonal parasheet. Ya scallywag! Sent it up a couple times single-stage on t' 18" parachute. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Sent it up 2-stage, ya bilge rat, and WOW! It be simply awesome. Blimey! A great flight, but it drifted quite a bit on t' 18" chute, so I attached t' streamer for t' next two-stage flight. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Up it goes, but t' booster engine fails t' ignite t' upper stage, ya bilge rat, which, o' course means no attempt was made t' eject t' streamer, so t' rocket streamlined down. Begad! . Arrr! . Arrr! PRANG! I'd like t' say it be a lawn dart, but it hit pavement! Damn, t' nose cone pushed back, ya bilge rat, arrr, shiver me timbers, shreddin' t' top 12" o' body tube, me bucko, and t' weight o' t' engines and fins etc. Ya scallywag! Blimey! (the booster stage never separated) cause t' body t' crumple about 8" forward o' t' upper stage fin unit.
This stagin' failure be caused by t' booster motor ejectin' from t' booster before it could ignite t' upper stage engine. Begad! I recall that me wife (who had t' job o' watchin' t' booster) be worried that I'd be upset because all she could find was t' booster motor, and nay t' booster. Ahoy! Begad! (In retrospect, I can't believe that she was able t' find t' engine casing. Blimey! Begad! . Avast! . Begad! )T' booster be still attached t' t' upper stage (a. Begad! Begad! k. a. Well, blow me down! Begad! sustainer). I didn't know much about stagin' at this point, but it be obvious even then that I didn't want t' booster engine t' eject backwards out o' t' booster, me bucko, matey, I wanted t' booster t' separate from t' sustainer. If you haven't built t' rocket yet, shiver me timbers, arrr, t' obvious fix is t' simply add a normal motor hook t' t' booster. Aye aye! Havin' already built mine, matey, however, shiver me timbers, I required a different solution. Ya scallywag! I ended up makin' this bizarre contraption o' bent-up paper clips t' retain t' booster motor. It starts with a rin' around t' booster body, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, arrr, just above t' fins. Begad! Attached t' this are two U-shaped pieces. T' tops o' t' U's are hooked t' t' ring, me hearties, and t' bottom o' t' U's fit snugly under t' motor casin' when it's installed in t' booster. Ya scallywag! T' help hold t' U's in place, me hearties, thar are two cross members down near t' engine, shiver me timbers, though I'm nay sure how necessary they are. Ahoy! There's enough play so that t' U's can just be slid sideways t' allow insertion or removal o' t' engine. It's dirt cheap, me hearties, and it works beautifully (never had a booster motor eject since), ya bilge rat, but it isn't much t' look at. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I've never made another one for any other rocket because it would probably maul a balsa wood fin pretty badly, matey, matey, and it might nay line up right with three fins instead o' four. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I'll try t' put a picture o' it here soon.
Well, ya bilge rat, arrr, matey, despite t' major destruction, I managed t' rebuild it (albeit 14" shorter). Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Made sure it was still stable and went out t' try again, me bucko, ya bilge rat, this time at a club launch. Arrr! Worked just fine single stage. Time t' try it 2-stage again. Avast, me proud beauty! Up it goes, t' booster burns through and separates. Ahoy! Blimey! . Aye aye! Ya scallywag! . Avast, me proud beauty! but again, arrr, shiver me timbers, no upper stage ignition. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! LAWN DART! Sunk t' nose cone about 3" into t' ground, and ripped up a lot more body tube. Avast! Only difference this time is that I got some good advice from t' nice folks in t' GSSS club. Begad! Get yourself a newer edition (the 6th edition be t' newest as o' Feb 1998) o' G. Ahoy! Aye aye! Harry Stine's Handbook o' Model Rocketry. Arrr! This book has a whole chapter devoted t' staging. Consider a short stuffer tube t' direct t' flamin' bits o' propellant more directly at t' upper stage engine. In retrospect, t' stuffer tube is probably nay necessary, arrr, since t' distance betwixt t' two engines is rather small. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! But without question, me bucko, DRILL SOME VENT HOLES!
Well, me hearties, now it was just too short. Well, blow me down! Had t' buy some BT-56 body tubes and couplers t' add 18" o' new tube. Ahoy! I made a stuffer tube out o' a piece o' an expended D motor, and drilled two 3/16" vent holes, one on each side o' t' booster, shiver me timbers, up near where t' bottom o' t' upper stage engine would be when its all put together. Ya scallywag! It has since been flown no less than 6 times in 2-stage configuration, me hearties, matey, and t' upper stage has lit every single time!
One side note, ya bilge rat, me bucko, though. Aye aye! . Aye aye! . Begad! on that second prang, t' upper stage engine was completely blackened by t' burn-through o' t' booster. Avast! It really should have ignited. Well, blow me down! Knowin' more now, I'm convinced that that engine was faulty, in that t' clay o' t' nozzle completely covered t' propellant, which is why it didn't ignite. Arrr! I've seen this situation in one other engine (which be so bad it wouldn't even ignite directly from an igniter), me bucko, me hearties, matey, and others on rec. models. Avast! rockets have seen it, too. Begad! So, a word t' t' wise: always scrape t' nozzle o' your upper stage engines t' expose fresh propellant. I use a small eyeglasses-type screwdriver for this purpose.
There are a few other hints that I can think o' regardin' this rocket. Although I haven't experienced this problem myself, others have complained that this rocket has a tendency t' crimp or buckle t' body tube just above t' top o' t' plastic fin unit on t' upper stage (a. Arrr! Well, blow me down! k. Avast! a. Blimey! sustainer). Blimey! There are a couple o' ways t' improve your chances o' nay havin' this problem. Begad! Blimey! Perhaps t' easiest is t' buy a BT-56 tube coupler, me bucko, and glue that in so that it reinforces this area. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Just make sure that it won't interfere with your engine mount. Aye aye! O' course, this is really only practical if you decide t' do it before you start construction. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' other way t' help avoid bucklin' t' body tube is t' soak that part o' t' rocket in thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue.
Another tip related t' longevity, me bucko, is t' coat t' inside o' t' top o' t' booster with glue. When stagin' occurs, t' booster engine blows a bunch o' burnin' propellant forward into this area, and then t' upper stage ignites and blows hot exhaust backwards into this area. Well, blow me down! This can cause t' paper tube coupler t' char pretty badly, matey, especially after many stagings. Aye aye! Ahoy! I coated all t' inside surface o' t' top o' me booster with a thin coat o' t' regular yellow wood glue. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! A thin coat o' epoxy would probably protect it better, me hearties, me bucko, and nay be as susceptible t' t' heat, but I didn't have epoxy then. Begad! Blimey! And besides, shiver me timbers, mine has stood up remarkably well, matey, so I can still recommend yellow glue for this application.
About t' only other complaint that I've heard from other people who've flown this rocket, ya bilge rat, me bucko, is that t' supplied recovery device, a 48" long crepe paper streamer, me bucko, shiver me timbers, is insufficient. Avast! Ahoy! Some people have even broken fins on landin' on grass, which is surprising, arrr, given that it's a reasonably sturdy, shiver me timbers, one-piece plastic fin unit. Arrr! Avast! Regardless, I would agree that it comes down rather fast on t' streamer. Blimey! Ahoy! One possible alternative is t' simply add another streamer, or make a significantly larger streamer (or both). Ahoy! Begad! However, me hearties, me bucko, I've settled on usin' a standard Estes 12" plastic parachute with t' spill hole (a. Aye aye! k. Avast, me proud beauty! a. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! peak vent hole) cut out. Blimey! Begad! See that blue dotted line that forms about a 2" hole in t' middle? Cut that out. With this chute, me hearties, ya bilge rat, t' Long Shot comes down soft enough t' avoid significant landin' damage, but doesn't drift into t' next area code on two-stage flights (as an 18" parachute would do).
Despite me problems gettin' t' second stage t' ignite (or perhaps because o' them), matey, I have become fascinated with staging. As you may have noticed, several o' me rockets are staged. Arrr! Aye aye! I really like this rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! I feel so proud every time that upper stage lights. . Begad! .
Update on 1997 Oct 12. Avast! . Arrr! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! . Arrr! I lost t' upper stage o' this rocket. Ya scallywag! :-( T' booster portion went fine, with a slight arc. Arrr! T' upper stage ignited successfully, and continued that arc. Blimey! T' sustainer was painted yellow and orange, arrr, and it be headin' right into t' sunset, so we lost sight o' it. I heard t' ejection charge pop, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, me hearties, but neither me wife nor I ever saw t' upper stage again.
Update on 1997 Oct 19. Begad! . Ahoy! . Arrr! I have essentially re-built t' upper stage. Avast! It's all from scratch, shiver me timbers, arrr, with balsa fins and and Estes parts (body tubes, motor mount, arrr, and nose cone). Begad! Begad! Other than usin' balsa for t' fins, matey, arrr, thar's really nay much that I changed in t' construction, arrr, I really liked it t' way it was. Aye aye! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! About t' only other thin' that I changed was that instead o' t' orange and yellow paint on t' old one, me hearties, me bucko, t' new one is a pretty cool-lookin' blue and yellow.
| Description: | A long 2 staged rocket, ya bilge rat, with a D powered booster and a B or C powered sustainer |
| Purpose: | My first multi-staged rocket. Ahoy! Also me first big rocket. |
| Motors: | Single Stage: C5-3, C6-3 Two Stage, me hearties, Booster: D12-0 Two Stage, Upper Stage: B6-6, me bucko, C6-7 |
| Max Altitude: | Single Stage: C5-3: 300ft(91m) Single Stage: C6-3: 275ft(84m) Two Stage: D12-0/B6-6: 700ft (212m) Two Stage: D12-0/C6-7: 1000ft (305m) ... Avast, me proud beauty! at least, matey, that's what it says on t' inside, although t' outside o' t' box claims 1300ft max altitude, which, t' be honest, ya bilge rat, seems more likely. Avast! It definitely goes higher than me models that claim t' go t' 1000ft. |
| Length: | 46" |
| Diameter: | 1.35" (BT-56) |
| Weight: | 5.7oz |
| Recovery: | Comes with a 2"x48" red crepe paper streamer. I've had much better results with a 12" Estes parachute, shiver me timbers, with t' spill hole cut out. |
| Nose Cone: | 4" Ogive, ya bilge rat, plastic |
| Payload: | None |
| Fins: | Booster: 4, me hearties, me hearties, plastic fin unit Sustainer: 4, me bucko, plastic fin unit |
| Notes: | Requires (3) 1x2 squares o' wadding, so I prefer t' use me Nomex® HeatShield from Pratt Hobbies (which I highly recommend). |
| Skill Level: | 2 |
| Part Number: | 2128 |
| Price: | 19.99 |
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