Estes Outlander

Estes - Outlander {Kit} (2110) [2003-2008]

Contributed by Eric Maher

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Manufacturer: Estes
Estes Outlander

Brief:
Next generation Mars Lander.

Construction:
T' kit includes:

  • 2 BT-50 (one long, shiver me timbers, one short)
  • 1 BT-20
  • 1 large blow molded plastic piece from which you cut t' nose cone, shiver me timbers, ascent module and nozzle
  • 2 die-cut paper sheets
  • 2 die cut balsa sheets
  • 18" parachute
  • Sticker type decal sheet
  • Typical Estes materials includin' engine mount

I bought this kit because I was lookin' for a more challengin' build. Aye aye! This kit does nay disappoint. T' kit should be rated level 5 difficulty and not level 3. In t' "good old days", I built a few level 4 kits (Mars Snooper II, Orbital Transport) and this kit has them beat in terms of difficulty.

There are some definite issues with t' instructions. Blimey! Most obviously, when constructin' t' engine mount, thar be a 2" long pre-cut wooden dowel that is used t' align t' rings that hold t' landin' gear in place. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! You will find that this dowel is too long and must be trimmed.

I encountered some other minor problems when building. Avast, me proud beauty! One o' t' fuel tanks at t' top o' t' rocket would nay lay flat because o' t' launch lug. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I corrected this by notchin' t' fuel tank t' fit around t' launch lug. On my kit, arrr, t' plastic on t' ascent module be particularly thin. Ya scallywag! I had t' reinforce the edge with epoxy t' give it sufficient strength.

In general, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' quality be very good. Arrr! Ahoy! T' balsa be top notch. Ahoy! T' die cut of t' balsa and paper parts was very good. I had one circular fuel tank cap that was slightly out o' round. Easily fixed with a little sanding.

T' really get t' model t' look good, thar are some extra steps you might want t' take. Well, blow me down! Most importantly, you should sand t' root edge o' t' "fin guides" round (concave) t' match t' curve o' t' body tube.

As always, me bucko, read t' instructions thoroughly. Aye aye! Make sure you understand the steps before building. Arrr! Begad! Test fit your parts. Arrr! This is especially important with a kit o' this complexity.

Finishing:
If you want t' finish t' rocket as shown on t' package (as I did), you will need t' paint t' rocket as you build. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' instructions will tell you when to paint t' various assemblies durin' construction. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! If you go this route, remember t' sand t' paint away from areas where glue is t' be applied.

If I had it t' do over again, ya bilge rat, I think I would just paint t' model white. Paintin' as you build is a pain for an impatient guy like me. I used Krylon primer and paint throughout. Well, arrr, blow me down! A big plus with t' Krylon is that you can recoat anytime.

T' stickers went on well, but I would much prefer waterslide decals. Avast! It is difficult t' eliminate bubbles under t' larger decals.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Estes Outlander

Flight:
T' rocket has been flown about 6 times so far. Ya scallywag! Begad! Each flight has been consistently good. Begad! Naturally t' rocket has a very slow take off, arrr, and a tendency t' weathercock. This hasn't been much o' a problem though due t' the low altitude flights o' t' rocket. Arrr! Rocket has nay taken any noticeable damage and t' landin' gear work perfectly.

Recovery:
My rocket has landed on its fins on all but one launch. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It does seem t' hit fairly hard but has nay sustained any damage as yet. Begad! Blimey! I would like t' see more altitude and might try an Aerotech D in t' future.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a great builder's kit and I would love t' see Estes come out with more higher skill level kits. Arrr! Begad! Blimey! Minor construction problems aside, arrr, this is a super kit.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Other Reviews
  • Estes Outlander By Greg Brown

    Brief: Single stage, parachute recovery with shock-absorbing landing gear. Construction: Upper BT-60 body tube of 5 11/16", lower BT-60 body tube of 2", blow-molded ascent module, nose cone and engine nozzle, four legs made of die-cut balsa, 1/8" dowels and foot pads, 18 inch parachute, 24 inch shock cord, numerous die-cut cardboard centering rings, leg support ...

  • Estes Outlander By Chan Stevens

    Brief: Based on the Mars Lander design, this is clearly one of the best-looking designs of Estes 2004 fleet. I really wanted to like this. Really. Unfortunately, this great design was very poorly executed and the result is a very disappointing performer. At nearly $30 retail, I can't recommend this kit unless it's for display and being built by someone with considerable patience. If ...

Flights

Comments:

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J.R. ()
Ok, I have one of these and have had fairly good luck with it. The only issue I have with it is DO NOT USE ANY B MOTOR WITH IT. A C6-3 in light winds is OK to fly in but DO NOT USE ANY SMALLER MOTOR. -Jon
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D.W.G. (May 5, 2004)
When painting before building, here is how you deal with the pencil mark problem and glue bonding issues" Mark the tubing per instructions. Take some 1/8" masking tape (or narrower) and plase the tape on the tube wherever a glue joint will go. Paint the tube like normal. Remove the tape, and you wherever the tape was, this is where the parts go. You can also paint first, then mark with pencil, erase were the pencil lines will show, and use a hobby knife to remove the area of paint where glue should go. Either way has its advantages and disadvantages. Also... go with a 24mm motor mount... some thinking will be involved due to the complexity of the size.. but I do agree... that is to big and expensive of a rocket for 18mm motors.
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R.M.F. (May 27, 2004)
Regarding 'peel & stick' decals: Add a drop or 2 of dishwashing detergent to a small bowl of water. Use a brush to wet the area where the decal will be placed. This allows you to poke and prod the decal into position w/o it getting stuck in the wrong place. Use a paper towel to soak up the excess water and allow to dry.
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D.L. (June 6, 2004)
I built mine with a 24mm motor mount. I flew it on 6-5-04 with an E9-4, to about 400 feet. This is a perfect motor for the Outlander. No nose weight was added, and it showed no signs of instability. I recovered it using a 20 inch chute with a spill hole, and it nailed the four legged landing. I agree with the others, it's way to heavy for a C motor.
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M.M.Jr. (January 16, 2005)
The most dangerous kit ever issued by Estes Industries in history. The Estes Outlander kit, introduced in 2004, is a beautiful static model. When properly painted, it is a fantastic sight to see on the shelf. However, as a safety officer for my club, I will order grounded ANY Estes Outlander anyone try to fly off the club field using a black powder 18mm motor. At four ounces, the rocket is just TOO HEAVY to fly using a C motor. With all of those lovely appendages, it is also TOO DRAGGY for C powered flight. A few club members reported seeing their Outlanders crash under power. The vehicle will arch over and hit the ground under ANY TYPE of wind. The one vehicle I saw in flight arched over and crashed into a parked pickup truck that belonged to a member. The owner then threw the excuse for a flying rocket into the trash and walked off in disgust. The only way to safely fly this vehicle is to either use a Aerotech 18 mm D motor or use some type of Estes 24 mm motor D or E motor. This would give the vehicle enough lift to clear the pad and enough altitude to make for a good flight. In the Outlander's current, manufacturer specified configuration, it is UNSAFE to fly. Estes Industries needs to recall the Outlander kit and retrofit them with a 24 mm mount for D and E motor usage. With minor modifications, it would cease being a flying short range attack missile and become a neat vehicle to fly. For those who own an unbuilt Outlander, be sure to discard the 18mm mount and convert the vehicle for a larger motor. It is rare for Estes Industries to issue a rocket that is this badly designed. It was as if it was never flight tested before it was released. However, Murphy's Law happens even to the big rocket manufacturers. Rocketeers, note this warning and fly safe. Happy flying!
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K.F. (July 8, 2010)
I had one of these and really enjoyed building it. In order to build this successfully, you definitely have to follow the directions. My biggest mistake with this rocket was following Estes' motor recommendations. My first flight was on a C6-3. Lift-off was slow and at about 50 feet altitude, the rocket nosed over completely and hit the ground, shattering almost every component of the kit. In nearly 30 years of model rocketry, I had never had a rocket perform so poorly on its maiden flight.
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Stephen Fitton (February 28, 2012)

The Outlander will fly decently on an old Estes C5-3 if you can lay your hands on some.  With the modifications suggested for a 24mm motor, a C11 will probably be the best for small fields yet yield a safe trajectory.

If I built another one, I would ignore the box scheme and the prepainting of subassemblies and just airbrush the assembled vehicle white.  It lands pretty hard and if you didn't dilligently sand away paint from glue joint areas parts will pop off.  Easier to assemble it without paint (and make gererous fillets on the gear covers to gearbox tube) and then deal with the paint afterward.  At its weight and with the fragile Estes recovery system, it won't have a super long flying career anyway.  Oh, and the stick-on decals are pretty much a joke.  They love to peel off on their own and they hate silver paint.

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