Estes Outlander

Estes - Outlander {Kit} (2110) [2003-2008]

Contributed by Chan Stevens

Construction Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Flight Rating: starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Manufacturer: Estes
Estes Outlander

Brief:
Based on t' Mars Lander design, matey, this is clearly one o' t' best-looking designs o' Estes 2004 fleet. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I really wanted t' like this. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Really. Unfortunately, this great design was very poorly executed and t' result is a very disappointin' performer. Well, blow me down! Blimey! At nearly $30 retail, I can't recommend this kit unless it's for display and bein' built by someone with considerable patience. If you really want t' build this one, shiver me timbers, you'd better buy two, me hearties, as t' first once will be chalked up t' a learnin' experience.

Construction:
T' hefty price is because o' t' parts list. This has lots and lots o' parts. BT-60 tubin' for t' main body (6" and 2"), me bucko, a BT20 motor mount tube (more on this later), me bucko, me bucko, 4 large BT-50 tanks (3" each), 8 smaller tanks (BT-20 x 1.5"), arrr, a molded plastic combo transition/nozzle/nose cone, balsa, dowels, arrr, lots o' cardboard rings and end caps, a beautiful sheet o' decals, me hearties, and assorted hardware and recovery gear.

I honestly don't think this rocket was built by t' person writin' the instructions. I'm nay sure it was ever built prior t' release, me hearties, ya bilge rat, period. While the instructions were generally clear and accurate, thar were a couple of mistakes and t' suggested techniques result in a very flimsy construction job.

T' instructions carry a warning/suggestion that if you want t' follow the standard color scheme, shiver me timbers, you should paint several parts before assembly (legs, tanks, body tubes, arrr, plastic parts and "gear box assembly"). Avast! Begad! I really liked t' color scheme on t' header card (base o' blue with red and silver accents/trim), arrr, so I went with t' paint-before-assembly plan.

Construction starts with cuttin' t' dowels used t' trim t' landin' gear. T' template calls out some very specific angles, arrr, matey, arrr, which were hard t' match, ya bilge rat, but minor errors are nay critical. Ya scallywag! Avast! Next, ya bilge rat, t' dowels are inserted into flexible rubber tubin' that acts as a hinge, me hearties, with a small plastic BB inserted into the center as a stop.

T' rest o' t' landin' gear is assembled from balsa leg center sections and cardboard trim pieces. Blimey! T' feet are very short centerin' rings with a couple o' cardboard disks for caps. Aye aye! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Pay very close attention t' the instructions, arrr, arrr, which clearly show which disks t' use for this step--there are several different sizes involved, and they can easily be mixed up if you're not careful. Ahoy! Once completed, matey, t' leg assemblies are then painted red/blue/silver.

After completin' t' leg assembly, t' "gear housing" covers are made from a couple o' balsa covers with a pair o' small balsa spacers sandwiched between. Ahoy! Begad! Blimey! T' instructions note t' paint this after assembly, arrr, though I found it nearly impossible t' paint t' inside area very well.

T' plastic parts need t' be cut apart from a single mold then trimmed. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! The cut lines were nay well marked, me bucko, although fairly well illustrated in the instructions. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! This was tough plastic and I chewed through a fresh blade on this. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Most o' t' plastic parts are then painted.

T' motor mount assembly requires some patience and correction o' minor problems. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! T' centerin' rings are mounted t' fairly precise dimensions, ya bilge rat, and this is on purpose. Begad! There's also a 2" dowel that is mounted on t' tube to keep t' rings aligned, me bucko, me bucko, matey, but this dowel is incorrectly sized, matey, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and needs t' be 1-7/16" long instead. Begad! Ahoy! Otherwise, t' rings won't fit t' spec. Arrr! The centerin' rin' alignment and spacin' is critical because they serve as mounting points for t' landin' gear.

With 12 different tubes and each gettin' cardboard disk end caps, t' tank assemblies are simple but time consuming. Ya scallywag! Blimey! If you want a great-lookin' finish, fillin' these spirals will drive you nuts. Aye aye! Blimey! Here's a tip though: since only one side o' t' tanks are visible and mostly covered by decals, only a light fillin' o' one side is necessary. Ahoy! Blimey! Finished tanks are then painted silver. I would also recommend applyin' t' decals after paintin' rather than after they are mounted.

Next, ya bilge rat, t' body tubes are marked with lots o' lines. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Tank alignment lines, leg housin' lines, me bucko, launch lug lines, me hearties, etc. Wait a minute. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Aren't these t' tubes I'm PAINTING before assembly?! What good does markin' do when t' marks get covered with paint?! This is boneheaded. You have t' choose t' either align things by eye after paint, shiver me timbers, mark a painted tube and try t' hide t' lines after assembly, me hearties, or mark, assemble, then paint, matey, me bucko, which in me opinion would be enormously difficult. I did at least use t' tube markin' guide t' cut out the sections for t' legs t' slip through.

Once t' body tubes are marked/painted(???), t' gear housin' is attached. Since I painted, me hearties, arrr, I had t' tack it on with a couple o' drops o' CA. I can't think o' anythin' else better for bondin' painted wood-based parts, but if anyone readin' this has a better idea, me hearties, post it as a comment. Begad! T' CA bond is not a very strong one.

After bondin' t' gear housin' t' t' motor tube, me hearties, t' legs are secured with elastic, shiver me timbers, and then kept in place by slots in t' nozzle, matey, which caps t' end of the BT-20. Aye aye! Blimey! Cardboard caps cover t' slots, securin' t' legs in t' housing.

Construction wraps up by gluin' t' upper body tube t' t' BT-20 motor tube assembly, then attachin' t' tanks t' t' upper and lower body tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! Again, with painted surfaces, I found myself tackin' these on with CA and given my lack o' alignment lines, me hearties, this was very difficult gettin' everythin' t' fit. Aye aye! The ascent module (large plastic transition section) slides over t' upper body tube, me hearties, shiver me timbers, capped by t' nose cone/end cap.

Finishing:
I don't know whether t' din' t' finishin' or t' construction, but bondin' a large, heavy, clunky rocket on painted surfaces is a very bad idea. Avast! Painting such intricate details, with lots o' nooks and crannies after assembly is also a very bad idea. Blimey! Ahoy! I'm leanin' towards dingin' t' construction but nay the finish, because after building, me hearties, shiver me timbers, this is a very cool lookin' rocket.

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
Wrappin' up construction, I picked up t' very heavy (over 4 ounce) rocket, and couldn't believe it be usin' an 18mm motor. Ahoy! (Ignorin' Aerotech's hard-to-find 18mm D motors, this meant usin' a C6-3.) I think this is seriously underpowered on a C6-3 and t' only reason I can think that Estes would also recommend B4-2 or B6-2's would be for flyin' in a school gymnasium. Heck, me bucko, me bucko, you could even go with an A8-3 and fly it in your livin' room, me hearties, assumin' you have vaulted ceilings! (Note t' kids: don't try this at home! I was only kidding.)

T' first flight, on a beautiful but breezy (8-10mph winds) day was with a C6-3. Begad! As I called for t' heads up flight, I feared t' wind and weathercock would prove more than t' puny C6 could overcome. Aye aye! Arrr! Sure enough, ya bilge rat, about 25 feet up, shiver me timbers, arrr, t' Outlander veered into t' wind at a nearly 90 degree path, peakin' at about 75-80 feet up but 50 yards out. Ahoy! T' 18" plastic chute deployed about 10 feet off t' ground, arrr, and t' crash landin' wiped out 2 o' t' 4 fins/legs and one o' t' tanks.

T' repairs won't be too bad, arrr, but this clearly can't handle any kind of wind at all.

Recovery:
PROs: landed close t' t' bad, don't have t' worry about bustin' t' ceilin' on our waiver...

CONs: horribly underpowered, arrr, unstable in moderate winds.

Flight Rating: 1 out o' 5

Summary:
Great lookin' design, me hearties, but destined t' be a static display only unless it is upgraded t' 24mm motors.

Overall Rating: 2 out o' 5

Other Reviews
  • Estes Outlander By Greg Brown

    Brief: Single stage, parachute recovery with shock-absorbing landing gear. Construction: Upper BT-60 body tube of 5 11/16", lower BT-60 body tube of 2", blow-molded ascent module, nose cone and engine nozzle, four legs made of die-cut balsa, 1/8" dowels and foot pads, 18 inch parachute, 24 inch shock cord, numerous die-cut cardboard centering rings, leg support ...

  • Estes Outlander By Eric Maher

    Brief: Next generation Mars Lander. Construction: The kit includes: 2 BT-50 (one long, one short) 1 BT-20 1 large blow molded plastic piece from which you cut the nose cone, ascent module and nozzle 2 die-cut paper sheets 2 die cut balsa sheets 18" parachute Sticker type decal sheet Typical Estes materials including engine mount I bought this ...

Flights

Comments:

avatar
J.R. ()
Ok, I have one of these and have had fairly good luck with it. The only issue I have with it is DO NOT USE ANY B MOTOR WITH IT. A C6-3 in light winds is OK to fly in but DO NOT USE ANY SMALLER MOTOR. -Jon
avatar
D.W.G. (May 5, 2004)
When painting before building, here is how you deal with the pencil mark problem and glue bonding issues" Mark the tubing per instructions. Take some 1/8" masking tape (or narrower) and plase the tape on the tube wherever a glue joint will go. Paint the tube like normal. Remove the tape, and you wherever the tape was, this is where the parts go. You can also paint first, then mark with pencil, erase were the pencil lines will show, and use a hobby knife to remove the area of paint where glue should go. Either way has its advantages and disadvantages. Also... go with a 24mm motor mount... some thinking will be involved due to the complexity of the size.. but I do agree... that is to big and expensive of a rocket for 18mm motors.
avatar
R.M.F. (May 27, 2004)
Regarding 'peel & stick' decals: Add a drop or 2 of dishwashing detergent to a small bowl of water. Use a brush to wet the area where the decal will be placed. This allows you to poke and prod the decal into position w/o it getting stuck in the wrong place. Use a paper towel to soak up the excess water and allow to dry.
avatar
D.L. (June 6, 2004)
I built mine with a 24mm motor mount. I flew it on 6-5-04 with an E9-4, to about 400 feet. This is a perfect motor for the Outlander. No nose weight was added, and it showed no signs of instability. I recovered it using a 20 inch chute with a spill hole, and it nailed the four legged landing. I agree with the others, it's way to heavy for a C motor.
avatar
M.M.Jr. (January 16, 2005)
The most dangerous kit ever issued by Estes Industries in history. The Estes Outlander kit, introduced in 2004, is a beautiful static model. When properly painted, it is a fantastic sight to see on the shelf. However, as a safety officer for my club, I will order grounded ANY Estes Outlander anyone try to fly off the club field using a black powder 18mm motor. At four ounces, the rocket is just TOO HEAVY to fly using a C motor. With all of those lovely appendages, it is also TOO DRAGGY for C powered flight. A few club members reported seeing their Outlanders crash under power. The vehicle will arch over and hit the ground under ANY TYPE of wind. The one vehicle I saw in flight arched over and crashed into a parked pickup truck that belonged to a member. The owner then threw the excuse for a flying rocket into the trash and walked off in disgust. The only way to safely fly this vehicle is to either use a Aerotech 18 mm D motor or use some type of Estes 24 mm motor D or E motor. This would give the vehicle enough lift to clear the pad and enough altitude to make for a good flight. In the Outlander's current, manufacturer specified configuration, it is UNSAFE to fly. Estes Industries needs to recall the Outlander kit and retrofit them with a 24 mm mount for D and E motor usage. With minor modifications, it would cease being a flying short range attack missile and become a neat vehicle to fly. For those who own an unbuilt Outlander, be sure to discard the 18mm mount and convert the vehicle for a larger motor. It is rare for Estes Industries to issue a rocket that is this badly designed. It was as if it was never flight tested before it was released. However, Murphy's Law happens even to the big rocket manufacturers. Rocketeers, note this warning and fly safe. Happy flying!
avatar
K.F. (July 8, 2010)
I had one of these and really enjoyed building it. In order to build this successfully, you definitely have to follow the directions. My biggest mistake with this rocket was following Estes' motor recommendations. My first flight was on a C6-3. Lift-off was slow and at about 50 feet altitude, the rocket nosed over completely and hit the ground, shattering almost every component of the kit. In nearly 30 years of model rocketry, I had never had a rocket perform so poorly on its maiden flight.
avatar
John Simmons (June 9, 2024)

Thanks for all the comments fellas. I just purchased an OOP Outlander kit. I'm upgrading it to 29mm power and stretching the BT-60. I'll post up some photos and a Flight Report.

comment Post a Comment