Descon Boddomuk

Scratch - Boddomuk {Scratch}

Contributed by Dwayne Surdu-Miller

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by Dwayne Surdu-Miller )
Boddomuk
by Dwayne Surdu-Miller

Boddomuk logo

Side View Lawn Pose PhotoBoddomuk attempts t' answer that age-old rocketeer question, "now that baby's drinkin' from cups, arrr, can I do somethin' cool with these bottles?" This baby bottle frankenstein is a rugged, transparent-bodied tube-fin rocket with a rear-ejectin' motor/recovery pod, requirin' no flame-proof waddin' whatsoever.

Boddomuk uses a standard baby-bottle nipple, ya bilge rat, cap, arrr, arrr, and rin' t' form a nose cone. Ahoy! When floatin' down by parachute, matey, t' nipple is pointin' downward, which supports an "oral recovery option" for the young-at-heart.

At first, this design be goin' t' be a long-distance milk deployment system. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, me hearties, me hearties, sort of. Aye aye! Arrr! You can load up t' nipple, shiver me timbers, carefully assemble it onto t' body with t' cap and ring, me hearties, and thar you have it... Arrr! a small, arrr, nipple-sized payload compartment that can be used t' transport fluids, maybe as further encouragement for t' "oral recovery option".

T' motor/recovery pod can easily be built for various engine sizes. Blimey! Avast! So far, me bucko, I've only checked stability with heavier 18 mm motors. T' pod can conceivably be built t' accommodate up t' F and shorter G motors. For higher thrust motors, however, arrr, matey, more durable adhesives must be used to attach t' tube fins.

Use your personal preferences for selectin' t' color of nipple retainin' rin' and for selectin' t' material (nylon or silicone), sensitivity (ultra, elite, arrr, or classic), and shape (standard, orthopedic, me hearties, or wide) o' t' nipple. Begad! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! I fly with t' standard nylon nipple with classic sensitivity and low flow. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Personally, arrr, me bucko, for rocket flights I tend t' shy away from t' ultra-sensitive, me hearties, silicone, shiver me timbers, orthopedic nipples. Begad! Ahoy! Although they have an interestin' transparent and asymmetric appearance, me bucko, they are nay nearly as sturdy as t' nylon nipples.

Click on any thumbnails t' view t' larger image. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye!
Specifications:
length: 20.5cm (8")
calibre: 53mm (2.087")
motor mount: 18mm (reconfigurable)
motorless weight: 95g (3.36 oz.)
fins: six 53mm tube cluster
fin cluster diameter: 159mm
recovery: rear-deployed parachute

recommended motors:
B6-4 B8-5 C5-3 C6-3 C6-5
D, E, F, arrr, and shorter motors are conceivable, but require larger-calibre motor/recovery pods.

link to photo of pulled-apart  Boddomuk

Parts List: 

3 - round 8-ounce baby bottles (I used Evenflo Classic nurser system)
1 - nipple (I used Evenflo Classic Sensitive Response)
1 - nipple retainer rin' (for above bottles)
1 - sealin' disc (for above bottles)
1 - 140 mm o' BT-20 body tube
1 - 18mm-dia, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, 6mm thick nose block
1 - motor clip for 18mm motor
1 - motor block for 18mm motor
1 - 120mm x 120mm x 1.5mm thickness paper board, ya bilge rat, or game card stock, shiver me timbers, or 3/32" balsa wood
1 - 3mm (1/8") x 70cm (27.5") elastic shock cord
1 - small snap-swivel
1 - 23cm (9") o' Keelhaul®©™® twine, arrr, crochet twine, or parachute shroud line
1 - 13mm x 100mm strip o' kraft paper or masking tape
Some plastic cement (I used Testor's)
Some yellow or white glue.
1 - 46cm (18") octagonal plastic parachute "kit"
        This parachute kit can be put together with:
          1 - large black or orange garbage bag
          4 - 36" length o' crochet twine
         16 - hole reinforcement rings for 3-rin' binder paper
          1 - single-hole paper punch 

Boddomuk Construction Details:

Boddomuk construction can be split into three phases: airframe construction, pod construction, and final assembly. Ahoy!

NOTE: For t' followin' instructions,
"Cement" implies t' use plastic cement (such as Testor's Plastic Cement) or any other adhesive that will effectively bond t' flexible, non-porous plastic that t' baby bottles are made of.
"Glue" implies t' use o' yellow glue (alphatic resin, or "carpenter's glue") or any adhesive that will effectively bond cardboard, balsa wood, and paper. Well, blow me down!

link to photo of Boddomuk airframe1. Avast! Airframe Construction

1.1  Cut t' bottom 6 mm off o' t' three baby bottles. Well, blow me down! Use a band saw or a razor saw for this step. Ahoy! Avast! T' bottles are too slippery, too tough, and too thick t' do this safely with a hobby knife. Ahoy! Arrr!

1.2  Select which bottle will be t' body. Make six tube fins from t' other two bottles by cuttin' t' bottles into 37 mm lengths. Again, use a band saw or a razor saw. Begad! Begad!

1.3  Cement two tube fins together, ya bilge rat, side-by-side with t' ends even. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Set t' assembly aside, restin' on t' sides o' t' tubes fins rather than on t' ends. Begad! Wait for t' cement t' dry. Begad! Repeat with t' two remaining pairs o' tube fins. Begad!

1.4  Cement a pair o' tube fins t' t' body bottle, extendin' 10 mm beyond t' bottom cut edge o' t' body bottle. Cement another pair t' the body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pair. Cement t' final pair t' t' body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pairs. All tube fins must extend 10 mm beyond t' bottom o' t' bottom o' t' body bottle. Aye aye! Wait until t' cement is dry. Ya scallywag! Aye aye!

1.5  Wrap an adhesive label around t' straw. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Cement the label-wrapped straw t' t' body bottle, matey, aligned with a triangular gap formed by two tube fins and t' body bottle. Begad! Ahoy! This should provide enough clearance for easy insertion o' a launch rod betwixt two tube fins.

link to photo of Boddomuk motor/recovery pod2. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Blimey! Pod Construction

2.1  Cut centerin' rings from 1.5 mm thick paper board or 3/32" balsa wood. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Each centerin' rin' must have an inner diameter o' 18.7 mm and an outer diameter o' 52 mm. Well, blow me down! Sand t' outside edge o' t' rings for a tight fit inside t' body bottle. Ya scallywag!

2.2  Punch or cut four 1/4" diameter holes, ya bilge rat, evenly spaced around t' BT-20 tube, ya bilge rat, centered 21 mm from one end o' t' tube. Arrr! This end o' the tube is referred-to as t' "top" end in followin' steps. Begad!

2.3  Glue t' 5 mm (1/4") thick balsa block into the "top" o' t' BT-20 tube so that it is flush with t' "top" edge o' t' tube. Ahoy! Ahoy! What is meant by a "nose block" is a balsa cylinder whose diameter be t' inner diameter o' t' BT-20 tube. It can be made by turnin' it on a mini-lathe or by cuttin' an 18 mm circle out o' a 1/4" thick sheet o' balsa wood. Aye aye!

2.4  Glue a motor block 60 mm (2 1/2") up the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube as follows:
     a)  Spread a bead o' glue, me bucko, 2" inside the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube.
     b)  Insert t' motor block into the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube.
     c)  Push an expended 18mm motor casing, into t' "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube until 5 mm (1/4") o' the casin' sticks out o' t' tube. Avast! Aye aye! Immediately withdraw t' expended motor casing.

2.5  Make a 3 mm (1/8") mark, 65 mm from the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Begad! Cut a 5 mm (1/8") slit along this mark. Insert one end o' a motor clip into this slit. Ahoy! Arrr!

2.6  Secure t' inserted end o' t' motor clip t' t' BT-20 tube by applyin' glue t' one side o' a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' kraft paper, then wrappin' t' strip over t' inserted end o' t' motor clip. Ya scallywag! A weaker alternative would be t' use a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' maskin' tape in place of the kraft paper. Avast, me proud beauty! T' main purpose o' this strip is t' ensure that no exhaust gases enter t' parachute compartment, so maskin' tape should be fine. Ahoy!

2.7  Mount a centerin' rin' 42 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue.

2.8  Mount a centerin' rin' 28 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue.

2.9  Mount a centerin' rin' 17 mm from t' "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Begad! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. This rin' will squeeze t' motor clip against t' BT-20 tube. 

link to photo of fully-assembled Boddomuk3. Aye aye! Arrr! Final Assembly

3.1  Sand t' centerin' rings o' t' pod for a snug fit into the body bottle o' t' airframe.

3.2  Assemble t' parachute.

3.3  Tie t' center o' t' 70 cm elastic shock cord t' the middle o' t' pod's BT-20 tube, matey, usin' a square (or "full") knot. Begad!

3.4  Tie one end o' t' shock cord t' one end o' a 23 cm length of twine (crochet, Keelhaul®©™®, or shroud line). Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey!

3.5  Tie t' free end o' t' twine t' one o' t' airframe's tube fins. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty!

3.6  Tie t' free end o' t' shock cord t' t' ring-end o' the snap-swivel. Avast!

3.7  Tie t' parachute t' t' snap-end o' t' snap-swivel. Aye aye!

link to photo of Boddomuk with nose disassembled3.8  Assemble the nose as follows:
     a)  Place a sealin' disc on t' mouth of the body bottle, me hearties, with t' flat side against t' mouth.
     b)  Place a nipple on t' sealin' disc.
     c)  Place a nipple retainin' rin' over the nipple and sealin' disc so that its threads engage t' threads o' the airframe's body bottle. Begad! Screw t' rin' firmly in place.

link to photo of Boddomuk on launch padFlight Preparation

1.  Fold the parachute as usual, but press t' folded parachute into a flattened rectangular shape. Avast! Begad! Blimey!

2.  Wrap t' parachute shroud lines loosely around the parachute. Avast!

3.  Press t' parachute onto t' pod, betwixt t' middle and bottom centerin' rings o' t' pod.

4.  Slide t' pod partially into t' airframe body, so that the parachute is held in place by t' body.

5.  Loosely fold up t' shock cord and slip it into t' same compartment t' contains t' parachute. Well, blow me down! T' twine part o' t' shock cord should also be slipped into this compartment so that when t' pod is completely slid into t' airframe body, ya bilge rat, arrr, it is held tight by t' bottom centerin' rin' o' the pod. Begad!

6.  Slide t' pod completely into t' airframe body, so that the "top" o' t' pod is against t' sealin' disc at t' mouth o' the airframe body bottle. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty!

7.  Prepare t' Boddomuk for flight as you would any other rocket, ie. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! install t' engine, shiver me timbers, arrr, slip t' Boddomuk onto a launch rod, install the igniter, arrr, arrr, and connect t' igniter t' t' launch controller. 

Flight Reports:

Session 1
Date: Saturday, August 10, arrr, 2002 Time: 3:30pm CST
Location: Lakeview Park, matey, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Temperature: 27 degrees Celsius (81 degrees Fahrenheit)
Wind: near calm

Loaded with a B6-4, me bucko, t' Boddomuk's take-off was slow and majestic (especially for a baby bottle :). Begad! Begad! It reached apogee within easy viewin' range, me hearties, and showed us a beautiful pod and 'chute deployment, me hearties, ya bilge rat, with no apparent tangles. Under a 40-cm 'chute, me hearties, t' Boddomuk's descent was moderately fast, arrr, landin' on a hard-packed gravel walkway 20 metres northwest o' t' launch pad. Ahoy! For a recovery crew game that I have in mind for this design, matey, a 45-cm 'chute would probably give an ideal descent rate. Begad! Anyhow, matey, t' Boddomuk was recovered with no damage. Aye aye! Begad! T' body was internally coated with dust from the motor's deployment charge, ya bilge rat, but became perfectly clear again when cleaned out with a baby bottle brush and some soapy water. T' topmost centerin' rin' of the pod be stained a little where deployment exhaust gases exited t' pod's tube.

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