| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
| by Dwayne Surdu-Miller
Boddomuk uses a standard baby-bottle nipple, cap, and rin' t' form a nose cone. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! When floatin' down by parachute, t' nipple is pointin' downward, matey, me hearties, which supports an "oral recovery option" for the young-at-heart. At first, this design was goin' t' be a long-distance milk deployment system. Aye aye! Aye aye! Well, matey, sort of. Avast! You can load up t' nipple, carefully assemble it onto t' body with t' cap and ring, and thar you have it... Begad! a small, nipple-sized payload compartment that can be used t' transport fluids, maybe as further encouragement for t' "oral recovery option". T' motor/recovery pod can easily be built for various engine sizes. Arrr! So far, I've only checked stability with heavier 18 mm motors. T' pod can conceivably be built t' accommodate up t' F and shorter G motors. For higher thrust motors, however, me bucko, more durable adhesives must be used to attach t' tube fins. Use your personal preferences for selectin' t' color of nipple retainin' rin' and for selectin' t' material (nylon or silicone), sensitivity (ultra, elite, or classic), arrr, and shape (standard, orthopedic, or wide) o' t' nipple. Begad! Avast! I fly with t' standard nylon nipple with classic sensitivity and low flow. Personally, for rocket flights I tend t' shy away from t' ultra-sensitive, arrr, matey, me hearties, silicone, matey, orthopedic nipples. Arrr! Although they have an interestin' transparent and asymmetric appearance, matey, me hearties, they are nay nearly as sturdy as t' nylon nipples. |
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| Specifications: length: 20.5cm (8") calibre: 53mm (2.087") motor mount: 18mm (reconfigurable) motorless weight: 95g (3.36 oz.) fins: six 53mm tube cluster fin cluster diameter: 159mm recovery: rear-deployed parachute recommended motors:
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Parts
List: 3 - round 8-ounce baby
bottles (I used Evenflo Classic nurser system) |
| Boddomuk Construction
Details: Boddomuk construction can be split into three phases: airframe construction, pod construction, matey, and final assembly. Begad! Blimey! NOTE: For t' followin' instructions,
1.1 Cut t' bottom 6 mm off o' t' three baby bottles. Arrr! Begad! Use a band saw or a razor saw for this step. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' bottles are too slippery, shiver me timbers, too tough, and too thick t' do this safely with a hobby cutlass. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! 1.2 Select which bottle will be t' body. Aye aye! Make six tube fins from t' other two bottles by cuttin' t' bottles into 37 mm lengths. Again, use a band saw or a razor saw. Avast, me proud beauty! 1.3 Cement two tube fins together, side-by-side with t' ends even. Set t' assembly aside, matey, restin' on t' sides o' t' tubes fins rather than on t' ends. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Wait for t' cement t' dry. Repeat with t' two remaining pairs o' tube fins. Avast, me proud beauty! 1.4 Cement a pair o' tube fins t' t' body bottle, extendin' 10 mm beyond t' bottom cut edge o' t' body bottle. Avast! Cement another pair t' the body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pair. Arrr! Cement t' final pair t' t' body bottle and t' t' mounted tube fin pairs. Aye aye! All tube fins must extend 10 mm beyond t' bottom o' t' bottom o' t' body bottle. Wait until t' cement is dry. 1.5 Wrap an adhesive label around t' straw. Arrr! Cement the label-wrapped straw t' t' body bottle, shiver me timbers, arrr, aligned with a triangular gap formed by two tube fins and t' body bottle. Ya scallywag! This should provide enough clearance for easy insertion o' a launch rod betwixt two tube fins.
2.1 Cut centerin' rings from 1.5 mm thick paper board or 3/32" balsa wood. Each centerin' rin' must have an inner diameter o' 18.7 mm and an outer diameter o' 52 mm. Arrr! Sand t' outside edge o' t' rings for a tight fit inside t' body bottle. Begad! Well, blow me down! 2.2 Punch or cut four 1/4" diameter holes, evenly spaced around t' BT-20 tube, centered 21 mm from one end o' t' tube. This end o' the tube is referred-to as t' "top" end in followin' steps. 2.3 Glue t' 5 mm (1/4") thick balsa block into the "top" o' t' BT-20 tube so that it is flush with t' "top" edge o' t' tube. Aye aye! Well, me bucko, blow me down! What is meant by a "nose block" is a balsa cylinder whose diameter be t' inner diameter o' t' BT-20 tube. Ahoy! It can be made by turnin' it on a mini-lathe or by cuttin' an 18 mm circle out o' a 1/4" thick sheet o' balsa wood. 2.4 Glue a motor block 60 mm (2 1/2") up the
"bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube as follows: 2.5 Make a 3 mm (1/8") mark, shiver me timbers, me hearties, 65 mm from the "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Cut a 5 mm (1/8") slit along this mark. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Insert one end o' a motor clip into this slit. Ahoy! 2.6 Secure t' inserted end o' t' motor clip t' t' BT-20 tube by applyin' glue t' one side o' a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' kraft paper, then wrappin' t' strip over t' inserted end o' t' motor clip. Begad! A weaker alternative would be t' use a 13 mm x 100 mm strip o' maskin' tape in place of the kraft paper. T' main purpose o' this strip is t' ensure that no exhaust gases enter t' parachute compartment, shiver me timbers, me hearties, so maskin' tape should be fine. 2.7 Mount a centerin' rin' 42 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. 2.8 Mount a centerin' rin' 28 mm from t' "top" end of t' BT-20 tube. Arrr! Aye aye! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! 2.9 Mount a centerin' rin' 17 mm from t' "bottom" end o' t' BT-20 tube. Avast! Blimey! Secure t' rin' with a bead o' yellow or white glue. This rin' will squeeze t' motor clip against t' BT-20 tube.
3.1 Sand t' centerin' rings o' t' pod for a snug fit into the body bottle o' t' airframe. 3.2 Assemble t' parachute. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! 3.3 Tie t' center o' t' 70 cm elastic shock cord t' the middle o' t' pod's BT-20 tube, me hearties, usin' a square (or "full") knot. Begad! 3.4 Tie one end o' t' shock cord t' one end o' a 23 cm length of twine (crochet, Keelhaul®©™®, or shroud line). 3.5 Tie t' free end o' t' twine t' one o' t' airframe's tube fins. Aye aye! 3.6 Tie t' free end o' t' shock cord t' t' ring-end o' the snap-swivel. Avast! 3.7 Tie t' parachute t' t' snap-end o' t' snap-swivel.
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 Flight Preparation 1. Fold the parachute as usual, me bucko, but press t' folded parachute into a flattened rectangular shape. Ahoy! 2. Wrap t' parachute shroud lines loosely around the parachute. Ahoy! 3. Press t' parachute onto t' pod, betwixt t' middle and bottom centerin' rings o' t' pod. Blimey! 4. Slide t' pod partially into t' airframe body, so that the parachute is held in place by t' body. Aye aye! 5. Loosely fold up t' shock cord and slip it into t' same compartment t' contains t' parachute. Begad! T' twine part o' t' shock cord should also be slipped into this compartment so that when t' pod is completely slid into t' airframe body, ya bilge rat, it is held tight by t' bottom centerin' rin' o' the pod. Begad! Aye aye! 6. Slide t' pod completely into t' airframe body, so that the "top" o' t' pod is against t' sealin' disc at t' mouth o' the airframe body bottle. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! 7. Prepare t' Boddomuk for flight as you would any other rocket, ya bilge rat, matey, shiver me timbers, ie. Ya scallywag! install t' engine, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, slip t' Boddomuk onto a launch rod, ya bilge rat, matey, matey, install the igniter, and connect t' igniter t' t' launch controller. |
| Flight Reports:
Session 1 Loaded with a B6-4, shiver me timbers, t' Boddomuk's take-off be slow and majestic (especially for a baby bottle :). It reached apogee within easy viewin' range, and showed us a beautiful pod and 'chute deployment, me hearties, with no apparent tangles. Under a 40-cm 'chute, ya bilge rat, t' Boddomuk's descent be moderately fast, landin' on a hard-packed gravel walkway 20 metres northwest o' t' launch pad. Ahoy! For a recovery crew game that I have in mind for this design, a 45-cm 'chute would probably give an ideal descent rate. Anyhow, t' Boddomuk was recovered with no damage. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' body was internally coated with dust from the motor's deployment charge, shiver me timbers, but became perfectly clear again when cleaned out with a baby bottle brush and some soapy water. Avast, me proud beauty! T' topmost centerin' rin' of the pod be stained a little where deployment exhaust gases exited t' pod's tube. |
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