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Crazy Train parts list

• 1  8" BT-80 body tube
• 1  .75" BT-80 coupler
• 1 .25" BT-80 coupler
• 1 2.59" diameter bulkhead
• 1  PNC-80BB nosecone
• 4  5.75" BT-20 body tubes
• 4  .75" BT-20 couplers
• 4  9" Mylar parachutes (originally spec’d with streamers, but later changed)
• 4  BT5-BT20 centerin' rings (used as engine blocks in 18mm tubes)
• 2  3"x3"x.75" sheets o' balsa (for constructin' tail cone)
• 1 small sheet of  3/32" (.09375") balsa for 8 small fins and optional mirror mount
• 4  .75 inch wooden balls (can be purchased at a crafts store)
• 1  2" x 3/16" launch lug
• 4 small screw eyes
• 4 medium snap swivels
• 4  12" 100lb strength Keelhaul®©™ thread
• 4 6" pieces o' 1/8" shock cord
• Bulkhead Template (PDF)
• Fin Wrap Template (PDF)
• Forward Fin Template (PDF)
• Rear Fin Template (PDF)
• Tail Cone Template (PDF)
• Mirror Mount Template (PDF)
• Peter Stanley's Word DOC Submission

Crazy Train buildin' instructions

1. Cut t' tubes t' lengths needed. Avast!
2. Prefinish tubes with 2 sessions o' fill n' finish and sanding.
   I get good results usin' bondo putty spreaders. You can cut them t' 1/2 wide strips and smear t' fill n' finish directly into t' spirals. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr!
3. Cut t' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Use t' provided templates as guides. Ahoy! T' grain on the forward fins should follow t' leadin' edge. Aye aye! I did this also on t' aft fins, but would now suggest makin' t' grain follow t' bottom edge. Ahoy! Avast! In this particular configuration I think that perpendicular grain geometry would add more strength. Begad! Next, arrr, soak t' fins in CA glue. Avast! First have adequate ventilation, matey, matey, me hearties, wear gloves, and maybe use a respirator if you have one. Place 2 sheets o' wax paper onto a flat glass surface. Put t' balsa on top o' t' wax paper. Well, blow me down! Squeeze a few drops at a time onto t' balsa, and use cut strips o' card stock t' smear t' CA evenly across. Turn t' balsa over and repeat. Place two more sheets o' wax paper on top. Avast! Place another sheet o' glass on top o' t' wax paper. Well, blow me down! Set somethin' heavy, such as a stack o' books on top o' that, matey, ya bilge rat, and let dry for 24 hours. This adds hardness and strength t' t' balsa. Blimey!
4. Prefinish fins with 2 sessions o' fill n' finish and sanding.
5. Glue t' 3/4 inch balls into t' Bt-20 tube couplers. Ya scallywag! I used a combination of epoxy, arrr, superglue, and yellow glue, but whatever works. Ya scallywag!

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• Glue t' two 1/4 inch sheets o' balsa together with yellow glue. Clamp or press together with somethin' heavy. Aye aye! When dry, glue t' 1/2 inch BT80 coupler to t' stack. Blimey! T' shape t' tail cone t' match t' design in Rocksim, shiver me timbers, I used a method learned from t' Apogee Components Makin' Custom Shape Nose Cones Usin' Simple Hand Tool CD. Basically you need t' hand shape this with sand paper, me bucko, arrr, me bucko, usin' t' rocksim tail cone template as a guide. You'll need t' buy t' CD t' get t' detailed procedure, or figure out a method that works for you. Once t' tail cone is finished, me hearties, glue into t' bottom o' the main BT80 tube. Aye aye! Avast!

  
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7. Make a straight line down each o' t' BT-20 tubes. Arrr! Ahoy! I use aluminum angle for this, ya bilge rat, but use whatever works for you. Begad!
8. Use the fin wrapper guide t' make four lines on t' main BT80 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! At t' middle point where t' wrapper edges meet, shiver me timbers, draw an additional line for t' launch lug. Begad! Avast!
9. Tie a piece o' Keelhaul®©™ thread t' each BT20 centerin' ring. Begad! Push t' thread thru each tube and make sure t' centerin' can slide in. Spread some yellow glue 2.5 inches into a tube. Mark an engine spacin' tube, or spent (or not) 18mm Estes motor 1/4 inch from t' end. Aye aye! Avast! Then and push the centerin' rin' in, leavin' t' 1/4 inch overhang. Repeat for t' other three tubes. Avast, me proud beauty!

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11. Glue t' forward fin t' t' end o' each nacelle tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Refer t' t' 2D image for placement. Begad! Glue t' aft fin t' each nacelle tube, makin' sure it is in perfect alignment with t' forward fin. T' back side o' t' fin should be 1 inch from t' bottom o' t' tube. Refer t' t' 2D image for placement. Ahoy! Begad! Blimey! I used Apogee's Epoxy Clay for t' fin fillets. Begad! This will add strength. Arrr! It's actually Ave's Fixit Compound, but it's t' same price whichever place you buy it. Arrr!

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• Drill a 1/16" hole into each 3/4 inch ball on t' side that's inside the coupler. Begad! Usin' needle nose pliers, ya bilge rat, twist a tiny screw eye into each hole, and remove. Aye aye! Put a drip o' glue o' your choice into each hole and replace screw eye. Ahoy!

• Usin' razor saw, matey, cut t' bottom o' t' nose cone off leavin' 1.25 " of the shoulder left. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!
• Wick some thin CA into each end o' t' BT20 nacelle tubes. Well, blow me down! This will help prevent zipperin' on t' forward ends and reduce possible damage on t' rear ends.
• It is easy t' get t' bottom o' t' fins out o' alignment. Ahoy! A solution I found is t' tape a piece o' t' Keelhaul®©™ thread in line with a fin line, me hearties, near the bottom. Begad! Avast! Pull this over t' t' opposite side and tape there. Begad! Make sure it is straight. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Carefully mark on both side o' t' strin' t' just past where the bottom edge o' t' fins will meet. I didn't do this for t' first fin and had to carve it back off when I realized it wasn't straight. Blimey!

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• Use yellow glue t' glue each fin t' t' body makin' sure it is as straight as possible. This rocket as it's designed has a high probability o' becoming unstable due t' t' increased chance o' asymmetric and off-axis thrust, me bucko, me hearties, hence the name 'Crazy Train'. Ya scallywag! We actually don't want it t' live up t' its name if we can help it. Begad! After each fin is dry, ya bilge rat, smear more yellow glue into t' fin joints. Also, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, when puttin' t' fins on initially, shiver me timbers, once t' glue sets, use tape t' hold it tighter t' t' body tube. Blimey! When all fins are dry, use Aves Fixit Compound (epoxy clay) on t' fin root joints (If you have some). Well, blow me down! Ahoy!

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• Glue t' 3/16" launch lug, with t' forward end at 2 1/4" from the forward end o' t' body tube. Ahoy! If you're usin' t' recommended 2" lug, the bottom edge should be t' CP location.

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• Optional mirror mount instructions (for wireless Boostervision camera): If you don’t use a camera, me hearties, at least construct and install t' platform in case you want t' carry a payload. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! First, me hearties, me bucko, make a platform for t' camera t' sit on. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! This keeps it level and at a fixed height. T' do this I cut a 1/4" piece o' Bt-80 coupler. Aye aye! I made a cardboard bulkhead from a priority mail box. See my article here on how t' do this. Print and cut out another bulk template, and mark t' exact center o' t' disk. Begad! Avast! Stick a needle or something else sharp through it, or whatever works. Aye aye! Arrr! Align a straight edge t' t' center and draw a straight line through it. Then glue two pieces o' cardboard vertically which will be snug on both sides o' t' camera. Aye aye! This will keep it from movin' left and right. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! My straight edge tool happened t' be t' right size to mark off both sides o' t' center line. Begad! You'll need t' measure if you don't have something. Avast! Basically you need t' mark two lines parallel t' t' center line that you can align and glue a cardboard piece to. This pic shows it better than I'm describing.

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• Make a hole for t' camera eye. Aye aye! I first made a vertical center line between two fins opposite t' side o' t' launch lug. I then made a horizontal line between t' top o' t' tube and t' point where t' top fins attach (approximate 1 5/8" from t' top o' t' tube). Begad! Aye aye! At t' intersection of those lines, I made a hole with a pin. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! I then used small drill bits, arrr, and hand twisted them, increasin' t' size o' t' hole. Begad! I eventually had t' improvise and twist a knife into in. Ahoy! Later I used a wooden dowel with sand paper. Avast, me proud beauty! I enlarged it until t' camera head would poke through. Blimey!

• I put t' camera in t' mount on t' platform, me bucko, and pushed it into t' body tube. Avast! This is tricky, and you'll want t' test this a little before hand, because with t' bottom sealed off it's hard t' pull it back if you go too far. I had t' cut a hole in t' platform t' pull mine back some. Ya scallywag! Edge it down gradually, arrr, me hearties, shiver me timbers, until t' camera head is in alignment with t' hole, me bucko, and is level on the platform. Aye aye! Use some yellow glue and glue t' platform in. Avast!
• I used 3/32" balsa t' make t' mirror housing. Blimey! T' mirror is a 1/2"x1/2" square mirror. Well, matey, blow me down! I purchased a pack o' several 1/2" and 1" mirrors from t' craft section o' wal-mart for a couple dollars. Arrr! Begad! Most of me time on this build was findin' t' right angle. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I printed fins from rocksim and tried several. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! When I got somethin' close, me bucko, me bucko, arrr, I hand adjusted what I had t' make it right. Begad! Avast! I later redesigned t' shape in rocksim, matey, and provided the template. Begad! Blimey! I also scanned what I made, me hearties, so I could reprint templates from those if needed. I used yellow glue t' make t' housing. I epoxied t' mirror into it. Blimey! Blimey! I used 5 min. Blimey! epoxy t' attach t' t' body tube. Begad! Avast! I applied more 5 min t' all joints. Aye aye! Arrr! Then I used 30 min epoxy and some 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth t' cover the housin' and reinforce it t' t' tube. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Before you do all this, ya bilge rat, especially before gluin' anything, make sure you test t' camera and make sure it looks ok. Avast! Aye aye!

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21. Attach t' medium snap swivels t' t' screw eyes. Tie t' 1/8" shock cord t' t' ends o' t' Keelhaul®©™ thread. Aye aye! Use a small snap swivel on the parachutes and attach t' t' bottom o' t' medium snap swivels. I originally used 9" nylon chutes, me bucko, but they will nay fit into t' tubes. Ya scallywag! Begad! They will, ya bilge rat, me bucko, but are extremely tight. Begad! T' Mylar chutes fit fine. Begad!
22. Before painting, use ¾" fiberglass cloth on t' fin joints. Begad! Blimey! I didn’t do this and three o' them popped off t' first flight. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I glassed them afterwards. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast! Blimey!
23. For finishin' I used a combination o' spray enamel(main body color), brushed on acrylic (for t' orange balls and light blue bands) and vinyl adhesive (for t' red stripes). Blimey!

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Flights:

Flight 1:

I first flew this on 4 A8-3’s. One o' t' motors didn’t ignite, and t' launch controller wire remained attached. Blimey! It went about 7 feet and fell over. Even on 3 motors it seemed t' have a straight boost. On t' first flight I used 4 9" nylon chutes. Ya scallywag! These chutes were too tight and I think contributed t' t' damage from t' motors tryin' t' eject. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Two fins broke off durin' motor ejection. A third broken upon landing. Begad! I glued these back on, shiver me timbers, and then fiberglassed them with ¾ oz glass. I also changed t' chutes to 9" mylar which fit much better.

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Flight 2:

T' second flight was on 4 B6-4's. Aye aye! Ahoy! This flight was great, shiver me timbers, and t' rocket suffered no damage. Arrr! It did arch over slightly, shiver me timbers, but seemed mostly stable. Avast! One of the nosecone/parachutes came off because t' shockcord burned through. I lauched this right as it be gettin' dark, arrr, so t' onboard video is nay that great. Blimey! T' altimeter reported 161 feet.

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Flight 3:

T' third flight was on 4 C6-3s. Ya scallywag! This flight was perfect. Avast! There was some spin, but overall it flew in a straight trajectory. Before launch I unwittingly removed t' shockcord segments, leavin' just t' kevlar thread. Aye aye! Ahoy! This caused a major zipper on one o' t' tubes. Begad! Ahoy! Also, me hearties, on another tube t' motor block, me hearties, kevlar and chute came out. I should have used epoxy on those instead o' yellow glue. T' alimeter reported 566 feet.

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Flight one is in extremely slow motion, slowed down t' about 12% speed.

Flight two was done at dusk, and looks almost like a night launch.

Flight three: