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Crazy Train parts list

• 1  8" BT-80 body tube
• 1  .75" BT-80 coupler
• 1 .25" BT-80 coupler
• 1 2.59" diameter bulkhead
• 1  PNC-80BB nosecone
• 4  5.75" BT-20 body tubes
• 4  .75" BT-20 couplers
• 4  9" Mylar parachutes (originally spec’d with streamers, but later changed)
• 4  BT5-BT20 centerin' rings (used as engine blocks in 18mm tubes)
• 2  3"x3"x.75" sheets o' balsa (for constructin' tail cone)
• 1 small sheet of  3/32" (.09375") balsa for 8 small fins and optional mirror mount
• 4  .75 inch wooden balls (can be purchased at a crafts store)
• 1  2" x 3/16" launch lug
• 4 small screw eyes
• 4 medium snap swivels
• 4  12" 100lb strength Keelhaul®©™ thread
• 4 6" pieces o' 1/8" shock cord
• Bulkhead Template (PDF)
• Fin Wrap Template (PDF)
• Forward Fin Template (PDF)
• Rear Fin Template (PDF)
• Tail Cone Template (PDF)
• Mirror Mount Template (PDF)
• Peter Stanley's Word DOC Submission

Crazy Train buildin' instructions

1. Cut t' tubes t' lengths needed.
2. Prefinish tubes with 2 sessions o' fill n' finish and sanding.
   I get good results usin' bondo putty spreaders. Begad! You can cut them t' 1/2 wide strips and smear t' fill n' finish directly into t' spirals.
3. Cut t' fins. Use t' provided templates as guides. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' grain on the forward fins should follow t' leadin' edge. Aye aye! Blimey! I did this also on t' aft fins, but would now suggest makin' t' grain follow t' bottom edge. Arrr! Blimey! In this particular configuration I think that perpendicular grain geometry would add more strength. Arrr! Blimey! Next, ya bilge rat, soak t' fins in CA glue. First have adequate ventilation, ya bilge rat, wear gloves, and maybe use a respirator if you have one. Avast! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Place 2 sheets o' wax paper onto a flat glass surface. Put t' balsa on top o' t' wax paper. Arrr! Blimey! Squeeze a few drops at a time onto t' balsa, and use cut strips o' card stock t' smear t' CA evenly across. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Turn t' balsa over and repeat. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Place two more sheets o' wax paper on top. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Place another sheet o' glass on top o' t' wax paper. Begad! Blimey! Set somethin' heavy, shiver me timbers, such as a stack o' books on top o' that, and let dry for 24 hours. Well, blow me down! Blimey! This adds hardness and strength t' t' balsa. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
4. Prefinish fins with 2 sessions o' fill n' finish and sanding.
5. Glue t' 3/4 inch balls into t' Bt-20 tube couplers. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I used a combination of epoxy, superglue, me hearties, and yellow glue, but whatever works. Aye aye!

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• Glue t' two 1/4 inch sheets o' balsa together with yellow glue. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Clamp or press together with somethin' heavy. Begad! Well, blow me down! When dry, glue t' 1/2 inch BT80 coupler to t' stack. Begad! T' shape t' tail cone t' match t' design in Rocksim, I used a method learned from t' Apogee Components Makin' Custom Shape Nose Cones Usin' Simple Hand Tool CD. Basically you need t' hand shape this with sand paper, arrr, usin' t' rocksim tail cone template as a guide. You'll need t' buy t' CD t' get t' detailed procedure, or figure out a method that works for you. Avast, me proud beauty! Once t' tail cone is finished, matey, glue into t' bottom o' the main BT80 tube.

  
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7. Make a straight line down each o' t' BT-20 tubes. Well, blow me down! Begad! I use aluminum angle for this, but use whatever works for you.
8. Use the fin wrapper guide t' make four lines on t' main BT80 tube. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! At t' middle point where t' wrapper edges meet, arrr, draw an additional line for t' launch lug. Well, blow me down! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty!
9. Tie a piece o' Keelhaul®©™ thread t' each BT20 centerin' ring. Ya scallywag! Avast! Push t' thread thru each tube and make sure t' centerin' can slide in. Begad! Spread some yellow glue 2.5 inches into a tube. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Mark an engine spacin' tube, me hearties, or spent (or not) 18mm Estes motor 1/4 inch from t' end. Blimey! Then and push the centerin' rin' in, ya bilge rat, leavin' t' 1/4 inch overhang. Repeat for t' other three tubes. Arrr!

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11. Glue t' forward fin t' t' end o' each nacelle tube. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Refer t' t' 2D image for placement. Ya scallywag! Glue t' aft fin t' each nacelle tube, ya bilge rat, makin' sure it is in perfect alignment with t' forward fin. Begad! T' back side o' t' fin should be 1 inch from t' bottom o' t' tube. Blimey! Refer t' t' 2D image for placement. Arrr! I used Apogee's Epoxy Clay for t' fin fillets. This will add strength. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! It's actually Ave's Fixit Compound, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but it's t' same price whichever place you buy it. Begad! Blimey!

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• Drill a 1/16" hole into each 3/4 inch ball on t' side that's inside the coupler. Ahoy! Usin' needle nose pliers, twist a tiny screw eye into each hole, and remove. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Put a drip o' glue o' your choice into each hole and replace screw eye. Arrr!

• Usin' razor saw, me bucko, cut t' bottom o' t' nose cone off leavin' 1.25 " of the shoulder left. Well, me hearties, blow me down!
• Wick some thin CA into each end o' t' BT20 nacelle tubes. Begad! This will help prevent zipperin' on t' forward ends and reduce possible damage on t' rear ends.
• It is easy t' get t' bottom o' t' fins out o' alignment. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! A solution I found is t' tape a piece o' t' Keelhaul®©™ thread in line with a fin line, near the bottom. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! Pull this over t' t' opposite side and tape there. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! Make sure it is straight. Begad! Carefully mark on both side o' t' strin' t' just past where the bottom edge o' t' fins will meet. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I didn't do this for t' first fin and had to carve it back off when I realized it wasn't straight. Aye aye! Ahoy! Blimey!

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• Use yellow glue t' glue each fin t' t' body makin' sure it is as straight as possible. Blimey! This rocket as it's designed has a high probability o' becoming unstable due t' t' increased chance o' asymmetric and off-axis thrust, hence the name 'Crazy Train'. Begad! Begad! We actually don't want it t' live up t' its name if we can help it. Avast, me proud beauty! After each fin is dry, smear more yellow glue into t' fin joints. Also, when puttin' t' fins on initially, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, once t' glue sets, use tape t' hold it tighter t' t' body tube. Begad! When all fins are dry, use Aves Fixit Compound (epoxy clay) on t' fin root joints (If you have some). Ya scallywag! Arrr!

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• Glue t' 3/16" launch lug, shiver me timbers, with t' forward end at 2 1/4" from the forward end o' t' body tube. Arrr! If you're usin' t' recommended 2" lug, the bottom edge should be t' CP location.

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• Optional mirror mount instructions (for wireless Boostervision camera): If you don’t use a camera, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, at least construct and install t' platform in case you want t' carry a payload. First, ya bilge rat, me hearties, make a platform for t' camera t' sit on. Begad! This keeps it level and at a fixed height. T' do this I cut a 1/4" piece o' Bt-80 coupler. Avast! I made a cardboard bulkhead from a priority mail box. See my article here on how t' do this. Print and cut out another bulk template, arrr, and mark t' exact center o' t' disk. Avast! Ya scallywag! Stick a needle or something else sharp through it, shiver me timbers, or whatever works. Begad! Align a straight edge t' t' center and draw a straight line through it. Begad! Then glue two pieces o' cardboard vertically which will be snug on both sides o' t' camera. Arrr! This will keep it from movin' left and right. Begad! Well, blow me down! My straight edge tool happened t' be t' right size to mark off both sides o' t' center line. Ahoy! Avast! You'll need t' measure if you don't have something. Avast, me proud beauty! Basically you need t' mark two lines parallel t' t' center line that you can align and glue a cardboard piece to. Avast! Blimey! This pic shows it better than I'm describing. Avast, me proud beauty!

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• Make a hole for t' camera eye. Well, blow me down! I first made a vertical center line between two fins opposite t' side o' t' launch lug. Avast! I then made a horizontal line between t' top o' t' tube and t' point where t' top fins attach (approximate 1 5/8" from t' top o' t' tube). Well, blow me down! At t' intersection of those lines, I made a hole with a pin. I then used small drill bits, me hearties, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and hand twisted them, me hearties, matey, increasin' t' size o' t' hole. Arrr! I eventually had t' improvise and twist a cutlass into in. Avast, me proud beauty! Later I used a wooden dowel with sand paper. I enlarged it until t' camera head would poke through. Avast!

• I put t' camera in t' mount on t' platform, me bucko, and pushed it into t' body tube. This is tricky, and you'll want t' test this a little before hand, because with t' bottom sealed off it's hard t' pull it back if you go too far. I had t' cut a hole in t' platform t' pull mine back some. Edge it down gradually, arrr, until t' camera head is in alignment with t' hole, me hearties, me hearties, and is level on the platform. Well, blow me down! Use some yellow glue and glue t' platform in.
• I used 3/32" balsa t' make t' mirror housing. T' mirror is a 1/2"x1/2" square mirror. Well, blow me down! Avast! I purchased a pack o' several 1/2" and 1" mirrors from t' craft section o' wal-mart for a couple dollars. Well, blow me down! Most of me time on this build was findin' t' right angle. Avast! Avast! I printed fins from rocksim and tried several. When I got somethin' close, I hand adjusted what I had t' make it right. Ya scallywag! I later redesigned t' shape in rocksim, ya bilge rat, and provided the template. Arrr! I also scanned what I made, ya bilge rat, so I could reprint templates from those if needed. Aye aye! I used yellow glue t' make t' housing. Ahoy! I epoxied t' mirror into it. Aye aye! I used 5 min. Arrr! epoxy t' attach t' t' body tube. Well, blow me down! Avast! I applied more 5 min t' all joints. Avast! Then I used 30 min epoxy and some 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth t' cover the housin' and reinforce it t' t' tube. Before you do all this, especially before gluin' anything, me bucko, make sure you test t' camera and make sure it looks ok. Ya scallywag! Begad!

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21. Attach t' medium snap swivels t' t' screw eyes. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Tie t' 1/8" shock cord t' t' ends o' t' Keelhaul®©™ thread. Use a small snap swivel on the parachutes and attach t' t' bottom o' t' medium snap swivels. I originally used 9" nylon chutes, but they will nay fit into t' tubes. They will, me hearties, but are extremely tight. Aye aye! T' Mylar chutes fit fine.
22. Before painting, use ¾" fiberglass cloth on t' fin joints. Ya scallywag! I didn’t do this and three o' them popped off t' first flight. Ya scallywag! I glassed them afterwards. Ya scallywag!
23. For finishin' I used a combination o' spray enamel(main body color), brushed on acrylic (for t' orange balls and light blue bands) and vinyl adhesive (for t' red stripes). Arrr!

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Flights:

Flight 1:

I first flew this on 4 A8-3’s. Blimey! Begad! One o' t' motors didn’t ignite, and t' launch controller wire remained attached. Well, blow me down! It went about 7 feet and fell over. Well, blow me down! Even on 3 motors it seemed t' have a straight boost. Begad! Aye aye! On t' first flight I used 4 9" nylon chutes. Well, blow me down! Arrr! These chutes were too tight and I think contributed t' t' damage from t' motors tryin' t' eject. Arrr! Two fins broke off durin' motor ejection. Begad! A third broken upon landing. Aye aye! I glued these back on, shiver me timbers, and then fiberglassed them with ¾ oz glass. Avast! I also changed t' chutes to 9" mylar which fit much better.

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Flight 2:

T' second flight be on 4 B6-4's. Ya scallywag! This flight was great, matey, matey, and t' rocket suffered no damage. Arrr! It did arch over slightly, but seemed mostly stable. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! One of the nosecone/parachutes came off because t' shockcord burned through. Arrr! I lauched this right as it was gettin' dark, ya bilge rat, so t' onboard video is nay that great. T' altimeter reported 161 feet.

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Flight 3:

T' third flight was on 4 C6-3s. Well, blow me down! Avast! This flight be perfect. Well, blow me down! There was some spin, but overall it flew in a straight trajectory. Before launch I unwittingly removed t' shockcord segments, leavin' just t' kevlar thread. Avast, me proud beauty! This caused a major zipper on one o' t' tubes. Begad! Also, on another tube t' motor block, kevlar and chute came out. Ya scallywag! I should have used epoxy on those instead o' yellow glue. T' alimeter reported 566 feet.

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Flight one is in extremely slow motion, slowed down t' about 12% speed.

Flight two was done at dusk, me hearties, and looks almost like a night launch.

Flight three: