Brief

As opposed t' typical 3FNC (Three Fins and a Nose Cone) this is 1FNC (One Fin and a Nose Cone) mini-engine sport rocket.

Construction

Because I decided t' paint parts before completin' construction, shiver me timbers, I combined construction and painting.

This is a Bruce Levison design. Blimey! Begad! T' design itself is really cool. Blimey! Arrr! O' course, me bucko, standard wisdom is that t' MINIMUM number o' fins for stability is 3. Two fins won't work, me hearties, and o' course, one fin would be absurd. Begad! Ahoy! Unless, ya bilge rat, o' course, me hearties, ya bilge rat, it is a RING fin. Ya scallywag! However, me bucko, if you have t' ATTACH t' rin' fin with support struts, you could argue t' struts are ALSO fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! so TECHNICALLY wouldn't be a one fin rocket. Well, blow me down! So how do you symmetrical attach t' rin' with no struts?

You don't. Arrr! Blimey! Mr. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Levison attached t' rin' t' t' side o' t' rocket. Looks funky and looks like it shouldn't work, but it does. T' design is stable, arrr, although it does cause a pronounced "corkscrew" flight pattern, ya bilge rat, hence t' name. (Side note, discussion with one o' t' designers o' this "kitted" version indicates that t' degree o' "corkscrewing" changes with t' length o' t' rocket, me hearties, this kitted version is specifically design t' demonstrate t' "corkscrew" flight characteristic. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Reference http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/search/label/Corkscrew.

Enough about t' original design. Arrr! Arrr! T' guys that "kitted" this really did their homework on this one. Seriously, matey, this kit goes together EASIER than your basic 3FNC beginner kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, arrr, blow me down! For one thing--- NO BALSA. Nothin' t' sand, taper, me bucko, matey, round, me hearties, or otherwise mess with. Aye aye! And with t' Reinforcement plate and TWO launch lugs it is a CINCH t' get t' rin' fin on straight (in me opinion EASIER than tryin' t' get 3 fins straight on your typical beginner rocket)

T' combined Keelhaul®©™/elastic shock cord is a nice touch. This gets attached t' t' engine block. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' Keelhaul®©™ presumably provides t' burn resistance. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' elastic provides some shock resistance. Begad! Blimey! Also, nay only do they provide you an empty engine casing, me hearties, but on t' instructions they even have a "quarter inch" mark for you.

I attached t' streamer t' t' elastic cord with tape as instructed. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Didn't like t' initial position, tried t' loosen t' tape and adjust it. Begad! Blimey! Streamer material came apart just tryin' t' adjust t' tape. Begad! Blimey! T' kit actually comes as a combo with a "Powered FLIC Profile Shuttle." I cut t' original streamer off, and used t' streamer from t' other kit.

T' marker card and t' TWO launch lugs are t' key. Ya scallywag! Avast! For all practical purposes, you CANNOT put t' marker card on wrong (check that, I guess you COULD put it on t' outside. Blimey! If you do this, arrr, strongly recommend you reconsider rocketry for somethin' more compatible with your mechanical skills--- perhaps stamp collecting. This gets glued onto t' inside o' t' BT-80 rin' fin. Begad! Since it is exactly t' WIDTH (front t' back) o' t' rin' fin, assumin' you cut it out straight all you have t' do is put it on t' inside and line up t' "long sides" with t' edges o' t' rin' fin (very easily done)

T' marker shows you EXACTLY where t' put t' BT-50 body tube (rocket fuselage) and t' launch lugs. 

While t' instructions were clear, me bucko, matey, I modified me approach because I chose a different paint scheme, AND because me scheme would be difficult t' accomplish with maskin' after t' build. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! So I elected t' paint BEFORE attachin' t' rin' fin t' t' fuselage. Arrr! T' do this however, arrr, matey, me hearties, I had t' mask t' "contact areas" before painting, as gluin' painted surfaces guarantees a very weak joint, ya bilge rat, and in this case with only one fin (and that eccentrically places) this joint takes a lot o' stress (which t' kit designers anticipated and accounted for quite well.)

I attached t' markin' guide first, as per instructions. Ya scallywag! . Blimey! Ahoy! Note on me pictures, I save original markin' guides whenever possible, me hearties, so I copied t' Reinforcement Plate onto a piece o' cardstock.

I decided t' attach t' launch lugs t' t' rin' fin FIRST. Well, blow me down! Because o' t' relative small size o' t' lugs, matey, it is pretty easy t' get them exactly aligned with t' markings. Personally, I think this actually would make t' construction EASIER even if you didn't paint t' parts separately, me hearties, as in me opinion it is easier t' get these two small lugs in perfect alignment than t' relatively big body tube. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Once you have t' lugs in place, me bucko, t' body tube literally falls into perfect alignment.

At this point, I dry-fitted t' BT-5 tube t' t' rin' fin. Begad! Aye aye! I marked t' edges o' t' contact points on both t' RingFin/Lug piece and on t' body tube. I then MASKED t' areas o' contact on each piece.

T' tube spirals were pretty tight. Arrr! Ahoy! Blimey! I also felt me paint scheme would probably camouflage an residual spirals. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Blimey! So I used Krylon Primer t' Prime and fill t' spirals. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! T' true craftsmn may consider fill and finish, but t' tubes are high quality t' begin with and I felt that was overkill.

For a paint scheme, I thought I could come up with somethin' a little more excitin' than t' black and white spiral on t' cover picture. A really cool trick though be t' use o' electrical tape t' create t' tapered Barber Pole spiral. Begad! Blimey! T' tape has enough flexibility that you can get a true tight "spiral" that you can't get with any other tape I know of. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! And visitin' t' hardware store (great place t' get rocket part ideas) I noticed they had OTHER colors than black. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Hmmm...... Ahoy! Blimey! How about bright yellow? Once I had t' yellow tape, shiver me timbers, had t' pick a background color. How about--- PURPLE!

Off t' Hobby Lobby. Ya scallywag! Problem. T' only cool purple they had was lacquer-based (Testors One Coat Lacquer Purple-Licious.) Wasn't sure how well this would go over t' Krylon Primer. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Did some quick research on Lacquer over Enamel, anyway, me bucko, with multiple VERY light coats came out fine.

I like t' hide t' nose cone t' body tube junctions on me rockets. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' stock paint scheme instead emphasizes it with t' different color. Besides, me bucko, isn't a corkscrew supposed t' taper t' a point?

I put a piece o' black tape on a metal ruler longer than t' yellow tape. Avast! Well, blow me down! Then cut t' long taperin' "Barber Pole" with a hobby knife and another metal ruler. Was able t' pull t' yellow tape piece off t' black tape. Begad! Ya scallywag!

I put a piece o' tape over t' nose cone t' body tube transition. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Ran t' tape from tip t' tail, over t' piece o' tape (shield for nose cone edge). I be then able t' cut t' yellow tape over t' transition, me bucko, remove t' shield, and re-affix t' tape (spiral over nose cone edge).

I mated up t' unmasked ring/kug part and t' Body Tube part. Matched up perfectly as expected. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Made attachin' t' body tube a snap. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I did put a generous "internal fillet" in place as I knew I wouldn't have access t' this area once t' pieces were attached. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! (Heavy Fillet). Wiped away any excess glue. Did NOT put a fillet on t' outside. Well, blow me down! Blimey! (So far, ya bilge rat, it has held up quite well.)