Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Published: | 2012-07-04 |
Manufacturer: | Odd'l Rockets |
Style: | Ring/Tube/Cone Fin |
As opposed t' typical 3FNC (Three Fins and a Nose Cone) this is 1FNC (One Fin and a Nose Cone) mini-engine sport rocket.
Overall great components with one exception.
T' weak spot be t' streamer, one o' which tore durin' t' build, t' other startin' fallin' apart with one launch.
Because I decided t' paint parts before completin' construction, I combined construction and painting.
This is a Bruce Levison design. T' design itself is really cool. Ahoy! O' course, standard wisdom is that t' MINIMUM number o' fins for stability is 3. Blimey! Two fins won't work, and o' course, shiver me timbers, one fin would be absurd. Avast! Unless, shiver me timbers, me bucko, o' course, it is a RING fin. Ahoy! However, if you have t' ATTACH t' rin' fin with support struts, you could argue t' struts are ALSO fins. Ya scallywag! so TECHNICALLY wouldn't be a one fin rocket. Blimey! So how do you symmetrical attach t' rin' with no struts?
You don't. Aye aye! Avast! Mr. Arrr! Levison attached t' rin' t' t' side o' t' rocket. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Looks funky and looks like it shouldn't work, but it does. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' design is stable, arrr, matey, although it does cause a pronounced "corkscrew" flight pattern, hence t' name. (Side note, discussion with one o' t' designers o' this "kitted" version indicates that t' degree o' "corkscrewing" changes with t' length o' t' rocket, me bucko, this kitted version is specifically design t' demonstrate t' "corkscrew" flight characteristic. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Reference http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/search/label/Corkscrew.
Enough about t' original design. T' guys that "kitted" this really did their homework on this one. Aye aye! Seriously, arrr, this kit goes together EASIER than your basic 3FNC beginner kit. Ahoy! For one thing--- NO BALSA. Begad! Nothin' t' sand, taper, shiver me timbers, round, or otherwise mess with. Begad! Ya scallywag! And with t' Reinforcement plate and TWO launch lugs it is a CINCH t' get t' rin' fin on straight (in me opinion EASIER than tryin' t' get 3 fins straight on your typical beginner rocket)
T' combined Keelhaul®©™/elastic shock cord is a nice touch. Avast! This gets attached t' t' engine block. Avast, me proud beauty! T' Keelhaul®©™ presumably provides t' burn resistance. Begad! T' elastic provides some shock resistance. Aye aye! Also, me bucko, nay only do they provide you an empty engine casing, arrr, but on t' instructions they even have a "quarter inch" mark for you.
I attached t' streamer t' t' elastic cord with tape as instructed. Well, blow me down! Didn't like t' initial position, ya bilge rat, me bucko, arrr, tried t' loosen t' tape and adjust it. Streamer material came apart just tryin' t' adjust t' tape. T' kit actually comes as a combo with a "Powered FLIC Profile Shuttle." I cut t' original streamer off, matey, and used t' streamer from t' other kit.
T' marker card and t' TWO launch lugs are t' key. Begad! Blimey! For all practical purposes, you CANNOT put t' marker card on wrong (check that, I guess you COULD put it on t' outside. If you do this, strongly recommend you reconsider rocketry for somethin' more compatible with your mechanical skills--- perhaps stamp collecting. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! This gets glued onto t' inside o' t' BT-80 rin' fin. Arrr! Blimey! Since it is exactly t' WIDTH (front t' back) o' t' rin' fin, shiver me timbers, assumin' you cut it out straight all you have t' do is put it on t' inside and line up t' "long sides" with t' edges o' t' rin' fin (very easily done)
T' marker shows you EXACTLY where t' put t' BT-50 body tube (rocket fuselage) and t' launch lugs.
While t' instructions were clear, shiver me timbers, I modified me approach because I chose a different paint scheme, arrr, AND because me scheme would be difficult t' accomplish with maskin' after t' build. Avast, me proud beauty! So I elected t' paint BEFORE attachin' t' rin' fin t' t' fuselage. Arrr! Begad! T' do this however, I had t' mask t' "contact areas" before painting, as gluin' painted surfaces guarantees a very weak joint, and in this case with only one fin (and that eccentrically places) this joint takes a lot o' stress (which t' kit designers anticipated and accounted for quite well.)
I attached t' markin' guide first, as per instructions. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! . Note on me pictures, I save original markin' guides whenever possible, so I copied t' Reinforcement Plate onto a piece o' cardstock.
I decided t' attach t' launch lugs t' t' rin' fin FIRST. Begad! Avast! Because o' t' relative small size o' t' lugs, it is pretty easy t' get them exactly aligned with t' markings. Avast! Well, arrr, blow me down! Personally, arrr, I think this actually would make t' construction EASIER even if you didn't paint t' parts separately, ya bilge rat, as in me opinion it is easier t' get these two small lugs in perfect alignment than t' relatively big body tube. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Once you have t' lugs in place, t' body tube literally falls into perfect alignment.
At this point, I dry-fitted t' BT-5 tube t' t' rin' fin. Arrr! I marked t' edges o' t' contact points on both t' RingFin/Lug piece and on t' body tube. I then MASKED t' areas o' contact on each piece.
T' tube spirals were pretty tight. I also felt me paint scheme would probably camouflage an residual spirals. So I used Krylon Primer t' Prime and fill t' spirals. Aye aye! T' true craftsmn may consider fill and finish, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, but t' tubes are high quality t' begin with and I felt that was overkill.
For a paint scheme, I thought I could come up with somethin' a little more excitin' than t' black and white spiral on t' cover picture. Aye aye! A really cool trick though was t' use o' electrical tape t' create t' tapered Barber Pole spiral. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' tape has enough flexibility that you can get a true tight "spiral" that you can't get with any other tape I know of. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! And visitin' t' hardware store (great place t' get rocket part ideas) I noticed they had OTHER colors than black. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Hmmm...... Well, blow me down! How about bright yellow? Once I had t' yellow tape, me bucko, had t' pick a background color. Ahoy! How about--- PURPLE!
Off t' Hobby Lobby. Blimey! Problem. T' only cool purple they had was lacquer-based (Testors One Coat Lacquer Purple-Licious.) Wasn't sure how well this would go over t' Krylon Primer. Well, blow me down! Did some quick research on Lacquer over Enamel, arrr, anyway, ya bilge rat, with multiple VERY light coats came out fine.
I like t' hide t' nose cone t' body tube junctions on me rockets. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' stock paint scheme instead emphasizes it with t' different color. Besides, isn't a corkscrew supposed t' taper t' a point?
I put a piece o' black tape on a metal ruler longer than t' yellow tape. Then cut t' long taperin' "Barber Pole" with a hobby knife and another metal ruler. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Was able t' pull t' yellow tape piece off t' black tape. Avast!
I put a piece o' tape over t' nose cone t' body tube transition. Avast, me proud beauty! Ran t' tape from tip t' tail, over t' piece o' tape (shield for nose cone edge). Arrr! Begad! I be then able t' cut t' yellow tape over t' transition, me bucko, remove t' shield, matey, and re-affix t' tape (spiral over nose cone edge).
I mated up t' unmasked ring/kug part and t' Body Tube part. Begad! Begad! Blimey! Matched up perfectly as expected. Arrr! Blimey! Made attachin' t' body tube a snap. Well, blow me down! I did put a generous "internal fillet" in place as I knew I wouldn't have access t' this area once t' pieces were attached. (Heavy Fillet). Wiped away any excess glue. Did NOT put a fillet on t' outside. Well, blow me down! Begad! Blimey! (So far, me hearties, it has held up quite well.)
T' kit recommends 1/2A3-2T and A3-4T engines. First flight was on an A10-3T because I had a bunch o' these. Begad! Blimey! While I would like t' describe t' corkscrew on ascent on first flight, me hearties, I can't because I didn't see it. One moment I was pushin' t' button, me bucko, a nanosecond later t' rocket be at 150 or 200 feet. Arrr! Drifted with winds into a 6-8 foot high cornfield. Fortunately I have some intrepid members o' t' Mid-South Rocket Society who surprisingly smartly found t' rocket! T' (second stock) streamer was pretty torn up (not burned, arrr, arrr, just torn.)
Next flight was on 1/2A3-4T a few weeks later (still didn't get any 1/2A3-2Ts.) Swapped out t' stock streamer for a piece o' pink markin' tape. Begad! Blimey!
Actually delay at 4 seconds was pretty good, matey, had a good corkscrew up t' about 100 feet, arrr, ya bilge rat, and a nice recovery about 75 feet from pad. Well, blow me down! Arrr!
As mentioned, t' ONLY negative I have on this kit be t' streamer. And even though it tore on first flight, this model is so light that nose-blow recovery would probably be sufficient. Begad! Begad! Given however it is a small model, me hearties, a brightly colored streamer is helpful nay just in slowin' recovery but also FINDING t' rocket on t' ground.
I am still givin' this rocket a 5. Begad! T' design is cool, t' instructions and t' kit (particularly t' Reinforcement Plate and two launch lugs) make this a cinch t' put together, me hearties, me bucko, probably while a bit more complicated than 3 fins and a nose cone, actually much EASIER t' actually build as t' guide on t' Reinforcement Plate, when properly used, allow t' parts t' mate up perfectly. While I am generally nay a fan o' "cute", matey, this rocket really is a cute little bird and it is hard nay t' like it just lookin' at it on t' shelf. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' CorkScrew flight pattern is fun t' watch, and on t' smaller engine (I think t' 1/2A3-4T is a good choice, keeps it in sight, me hearties, ya bilge rat, allows you t' see t' spiral, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and recovers easily) gives a nice entertainin' flight.