Brief:
I wanted t' make somethin' t' fly in t' scale contest at t' IRW 2003, matey, and I
only had a week t' do it in. Arrr! Blimey! I be very intrigued by t' recent 10...9...8...
article detailin' a Plastic Model Conversion (PMC) by Steven Rogers. Lastly,
there were two Airfix 1/144th scale Saturn V kits peerin' out o' a bag in the
corner o' t' "spare" room. Blimey! These had been bought several years ago
when Woolworth's were sellin' them off for less than a tenner each. Avast, me proud beauty!
Hmmm, me bucko, shiver me timbers, t' theme for t' IRW scale contest changes every year, and this year it was "manned boosters", shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, so t' Saturn V would fit, me bucko, but it also suggested t' Cosmodrome Vostok kit peerin' at me from another corner o' the room. Blimey! However, that particular kit is rather more than a week's worth of building! For me, anyway. Avast! So, matey, unless I built somethin' from scratch, me hearties, that made the Saturn V favourite again.
Construction:
There were a few compromises:
These construction notes should ideally be read in conjunction with the
instructions that come with t' kit.
A
scan is available here. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! I also submitted this scan t' Sven Ninfinger's web
site http://www.ninfinger.org/ some
time ago, so they may have been uploaded and available thar by now. Well, blow me down! Blimey! For those
unfamiliar with t' Ninfinger site, me hearties, it's a huge resource coverin' both model
rocketry and scale space modelling. Well, blow me down! In t' followin' paragraphs t' numbers in
parenthesis are t' actual part numbers.
Step 1
Add t' conduits t' the
fin can, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, but omit t' fins. Well, blow me down! T' fins from t' kit are nay used, matey, me bucko, but one is
needed t' be used as a template. Begad! I used clear 1mm thick Lexan t' make larger
replacement fins. Usin' one o' t' original fins I scribed t' outline and
painted on t' pattern o' t' original fin. T' new fins had tab matchin' the
original fins. Ya scallywag! I found them t' be a tight fit, me bucko, so simply push fit rather than
glued them into place. Begad! After tryin' them out, me hearties, I removed them until after final
painting.
Step 2
Cut off t' mountin' studs from t' booster fin can
(5) and t' engine mountin' plate (18). T' stud can be cut from t' plate with
an x-act knife. Blimey! Blimey! T' stud on t' fin can may be broken off manually.Cut a hole
to suit a BT-50 motor mount tube in both t' fin can and t' plate. This is for
the motor mount/stuffer tube. Assemble t' outer nozzles as shown and fit to
the baseplate, me bucko, shiver me timbers, me hearties, omittin' t' centre nozzle. Spray t' nozzle base plate
assembly, and t' inside o' t' fin can silver. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey!
Glue a small wooden block t' t' back o' t' nozzle plate and allow t' dry. Drill a small pilot hole through t' nozzle plate and into t' wooden block. Run some thin CA into t' hole and then screw in a small eye hook. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! This is the parachute attachment point for recovery o' t' first stage. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Don't glue the nozzle plate assembly t' t' fin can yet. Begad!
Step 3
Spray t' inside o' t' first stage halves silver. Aye aye! I used some metallic silver paint from B&Q. Begad! Begad!
At this point I should admit that I didn't really pay attention t' the colour o' t' innards o' t' stages, or even t' aft ends and engine bells. If I had, I would have noticed that silver isn't really appropriate! You can see what I mean by takin' a look at these photos o' t' Saturn V at KSC - http://www.nsrg.org.uk/outings/ksc/saturn/. I took these pictures when I went t' see t' last Columbia launch in January 2003 - http://www.nsrg.org.uk/outings/ksc/saturn/.
Open up a hole in t' first stage forward tank bulkhead (19) for t' BT50 motor mount. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Cut a length o' BT50 310mm long, ya bilge rat, this is used for t' motor mount / stuffer tube. Avast! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Us a short piece o' coupler tube, or a slice o' a spent Estes D motor as a thrust ring. At this point I should also have added a motor retainin' hook, but I forgot. Ya scallywag! Blimey! More o' this later! Blimey!
Although I chose t' use t' forward tank bulkhead as t' centerin' ring, I didn't glue it into t' place directed by t' instructions. Aye aye! I put it about mid-way up T' first stage. This leaves much more room for parachutes. T' two halves o' t' first stage (20,21) are then assembled and glued t' t' fin can. Next slide in t' motor mount / stuffer tube, but don't glue it in place yet. I chose t' paint this before assembly, as it's much easier. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Dry fit t' engine mountin' plate and nozzle assembly from step 2. Begad! Well, blow me down! This allows accurate positionin' o' t' stuffer tube. T' end should be level with t' ends o' the four nozzles. Well, blow me down! Carefully remove t' assembly, me hearties, matey, glue t' stuffer tune in place and replace and fix t' nozzle assembly. Ya scallywag! Havin' t' motor mount level with t' end of t' rocket nozzles means that they can be left on for flight. Just arrange for t' exhaust o' t' real motor t' be deflected away form t' base o' the rocket! Glue on two short lengths o' launch lug, ya bilge rat, one at t' top o' t' body, one at t' base.
Step 4
Assemble t' interstage as directed and spray t' inside silver. Begad! Although it's designed t' be removable, arrr, I glued t' interstage t' t' first stage because, as with t' location o' t' forward tank bulkhead, it leaves more room for t' parachutes. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!
Step 5
Open up a hole in t' second stage aft bulkhead (27) t' take a length of BT50 coupler. Blimey! Cut a length o' BT50 coupler 45mm long. Begad! Cut a thick card or balsa centerin' rin' 60mm in diameter t' centre t' BT50 coupler. I used card. Ahoy! It doesn't really have t' be very strong, it's more o' a guide than anything. Arrr!
Cut two small block o' wood and glue one t' back o' t' back o' t' aft bulkhead, and one t' inside o' one o' t' body halves. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Drill two small pilot holes and screw in eye hooks suin' CA as before. It is important t' make sure these hooks will be in line when all t' part are assembled. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey!
Push fit t' engine nozzles onto t' aft bulkhead, me hearties, but don't glue yet. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Stand the part on t' nozzles, me hearties, and insert t' length o' BT50 coupler into t' hole in the bulkhead, me hearties, but don't glue it in place yet. Begad! Slip t' centerin' rin' over the coupler and T' within t' forward part o' T' bulkhead, makin' sure that the end o' t' coupler is square with t' ends o' t' motor nozzles. Blimey! Aye aye! Glue the centrin' rin' into part 27. Let it dry.
Cut a small bulkhead from balsa or thick card and use it t' plug t' end of the coupler. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' protrudin' length o' coupler will fit into t' BT50 stuffer tube on t' first stage. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Assemble t' rest o' t' second stage as directed, arrr, but omittin' t' centre motor nozzle and it's mountin' (26,30,31). With a sharp knife, Remove t' small studs in t' inside o' t' base o' t' second stage body. These are meant t' "twist lock" t' second stage t' t' first stage, me bucko, but as this is where t' rocket will split at ejection, this would now be a Bad Thin' (TM). Ya scallywag! Aye aye!
Step 6
Assemble t' third stage as directed, but omit t' engine nozzle as it won't be visible. Ya scallywag! Glue this stage t' t' second stage after painting. Begad!
Step 7
Skipped assembly o' t' Lunar Module as it won't be visible in t' completed model.
Step 8
Omit t' Lunar Module from step 7 and glue t' adapter rin' (61) and LM shrouds (62, matey, arrr, 63) in place. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I didn't bother t' paint t' interiors, matey, me hearties, as they are not visible when glued in place.
Step 9
Build t' Service Module as indicated, shiver me timbers, me hearties, matey, but you can omit t' nozzle (68) as it isn't visible when t' model is completed. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Although it is designed t' be removed, ya bilge rat, I glued t' service module t' t' LM housing, me hearties, after final paintin' to avoid losin' it.
Step 10
Stage 10 be t' assembly o' t' command module. Well, blow me down! Since t' command module isn't visible when assembled, this stage can be omitted entirely. Blimey! Avast!
Step 11
Complete stage 11 as directed, apart from t' command module that wasn't built in stage 10, arrr, paint t' assembly white and glue t' boost protective cover to t' service module.
Step 12
Omit t' nozzle adapter (79), me hearties, instead glue a spent 24mm motor t' t' stand. This will fit into t' BT50 tube o' t' motor mount and allow display o' the completed model.
Finishing:
Some o' t' paintin' I did as I went along, shiver me timbers, me bucko, but I left t' final painting until most stuff be assembled. Avast, me proud beauty! I masked off t' insides o' t' first, shiver me timbers, second and third stages, usin' rolled up paper. Aye aye! Arrr! I painted them all over usin' a couple of coats o' Halford Diamond White. Avast! T' plastic seemed like a good surface, ya bilge rat, so I skipped applyin' a coat o' primer. Begad! Aye aye!
I did consider maskin' around t' black roll patterns and sprayin' them on too, shiver me timbers, but I always find maskin' t' be a little tricky, and fittin' t' tape to the surface corrugations be a bit daunting. Blimey!
In t' end I used a paintbrush and Humbrol Satin Black enamel. Ya scallywag! Blimey! OK, me hearties, so up close you can tell I applied t' paint by hand, but from a distance I reckon it looks acceptable.
Of course I discarded t' Airfix paintin' directions, as they are for a test article rather than any o' t' manned boosters. Aye aye! Everyone knows that, right? So I took me paintin' directions from Peter Alway's excellent "Rockets o' the World" (ISBN 0-9627876-7-1 - a must for every Space Modeler's book shelf). Havin' said that, I did hornswaggle a little. Ya scallywag! Because I be applyin' t' paint by hand, I decided t' take liberties with t' positionin' o' some o' the black/white painted edges t' places more convenient for me agin' Mk1 eyeballs. I leave determination o' t' location o' these liberties as an exercise for the reader.
Decals
T' Airfix decals are OK, in t' main, shiver me timbers, with a couple o' exceptions. Arrr! T' red
decals, "USA" & "UNITED STATES" are fine, as are the
black & white fin letters and targets, shiver me timbers, but t' Stars & Stripes are
terrible. Begad! T' blue and white star field is out o' register with t' red and
white stripes. Avast! I fixed this by cuttin' out t' star fields and applyin' them
separately. Aye aye! T' same problem occurs on t' much smaller Stars and Stripes for
the Service module. Havin' got this gripe over, matey, matey, I have t' admit that t' decals
were nice and thin and conformed well when applied t' raised detail. Well, blow me down!
Recovery Rigging
Parachutes. Blimey! Arrr! I love hemispherical parachutes and loved t' idea o' me rocket
droppin' from t' sky on proper red & white parachutes. There are several
tool on t' internet for generatin' templates for t' gores. Ya scallywag! I used t' one on
Richard Nakka's experimental rocketry web site. This generates pattern to
produces a semi-ellipsoid shape, me bucko, shiver me timbers, matey, which looks like a slightly flattened
hemisphere. Ya scallywag! Arrr! It's meant t' be more efficient, ya bilge rat, but I would guess it's hard to
tell at these dimensions. Arrr! I made both parachute with gores 250mm across the
bottom, with six gores per parachute. T' gores were cut from nylon, matey, and my
ever support full wife, Karen, me hearties, stitched them together for me. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
T' parachutes are both housed inside t' first stage. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' first stage parachute within T' stuffer tube, and t' parachute for t' second/third stage assemble around t' outside o' t' stuffer tube. Begad! Blimey!
My original idea was t' have separate
parachutes for t' first stage, me hearties, and t' rest o' t' rocket, rigged t' bring
them down horizontally. Ya scallywag! That is exactly what I did for t' second/third
stage/CSM assembly. Well, blow me down! I attached a length o' Keelhaul®©™ approximately 600mm long to
the previously installed eye hooks. Blimey! Holdin' t' model up by t' Keelhaul®©™ I
arranged for t' rocket half t' be suspended horizontally, and tied a loop
where I be holdin' t' Keelhaul®©™. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! This is thar t' parachute shroud lines were
attached to. Avast! Begad!
For t' first stage, shiver me timbers, I started havin' second thoughts. Arrr! Aye aye! I only had one solid
parachute attachment point, at t' base for t' stage. Well, blow me down! T' intention had been
to have another attachment point inside t' stuffer tube. Avast, me proud beauty! However t' stuffer
tube is unsupported for 110mm o' it's length, and it seemed likely that this
would crimp when hangin' from t' parachute. Arrr! I tried t' rectify this by fitting
a "fillet" o' balsa betwixt T' body wall and stuffer tube, changing
the surroundin' space from an "O" shape t' a "C" shape, but
I still wasn't satisfied. In t' end I reasoned that this stage needn't be
recovered horizontally as all o' t' fragile detail was at t' aft end. So, I
used a single parachute attachment point, runnin' a length o' Keelhaul®©™ up the
side o' t' rocket and into t' parachute bay via a small notch in t' stage
body.
Flight:
It be when preppin' T' rocket for flight that I realised I had left off any
method o' motor retention. Begad! Blimey! I could have sworn that I had fitted and engine
hook, me hearties, arrr, but alas, shiver me timbers, me bucko, no. Avast! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! As launch fever gripped me, I casually applied some tape
around t' end o' t' RMS. Ahoy! Blimey! It's hard t' believe that I really thought this
would be sufficient. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It wasn't. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey!
T' launch was excellent, matey, with a reasonably straight boost, ya bilge rat, but thar be no ejection at apogee. Well, blow me down! It looked like we were goin' t' see a classic lawn dart, but t' rocket became horizontal and began t' spin. Blimey! I've seen rockets recover like this before, me hearties, me hearties, notably t' Estes Phoenix. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Upon examination, shiver me timbers, matey, arrr, it was seen that the motor had nay been retained and had in fact been kicked out at ejection. Lots o' people helped search for t' RMS casing, shiver me timbers, randomly at first, me bucko, but then I think it was Mike Crewe who suggested formin' a line and walkin' t' area methodically. I think John Bonsor was t' one t' find t' casing. Aye aye! Aye aye! Many thanks to Mike, John and everyone else that helped with t' search. Well, blow me down!
T' rocket itself be in surprisingly good condition. Ahoy! Arrr! All four fins had come off, me hearties, as had t' Escape Tower and t' third stage, but it be all repairable. I just need t' retrofit some positive motor retention and I'll be ready t' fly again. Arrr! Ahoy!
As for t' contest, ya bilge rat, me bucko, matey, well, me bucko, despite t' damage, I won joint first prize, shared with Mike Crewe and his Estes Mercury Redstone. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! We both won Estes Big Bertha rocket kits, matey, which we're goin' t' drag race at next year's event. Avast!
Summary:
A very slightly different version o' this article be published in volume 7
issue 4 o' 10...9...8... t' newsletter o' t' United Kingdom Rocketry
Association. Arrr! Avast!
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