Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Length: | 23.50 inches |
Manufacturer: | Dr. Zooch |
Skill Level: | 2 |
Style: | Scale |
Brief:
I'd wanted t' try a Dr. Booty kit for some time. Avast, me proud beauty! I decided on t' Mercury Redstone. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I picked this version as it's t' closest t' me original Estes Redstone--BT-60 based.
All t' other reviews are right about t' first impression. Blimey! Blimey! That box seems small! Blimey! Then again, arrr, it's really no smaller than a kit in a clear bag hangin' on a wall in a hobby store.
I'll jump ahead. Avast! Ahoy! Blimey! Don't look for a flight review, I'm nay flyin' this one. Aye aye! It's t' first rocket I've built in years I'm keepin' t' display. Avast, me proud beauty! It was that good o' a build. It's a keeper.
Some parts observations:
Construction:
I started construction as I always do, by sandin' square t' body tube ends and strengthenin' all (exposed) t' inside body tube ends with CA. Ya scallywag! T' nose cone was sanded lightly with 400 grit sandpaper. Begad! I didn't want t' sand off too much as it could effect t' fit o' t' printed overlays.
T' C60-4 coupler did need a bit o' sandin' t' get a slip fit inside t' BT-60 tubes. Avast, me proud beauty! I wanted a slip fit, me bucko, I didn't want t' take t' chance o' anythin' freezin' up when t' tubes are glued together.
Be sure you wipe down t' laser cut centerin' rings with a paper towel. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! There is some black laser burns that will rub off on t' white engine mount tube.
T' instructions say t' cut t' reinforcement band from t' wrap sheet. Avast, me proud beauty! I couldn't find it anywhere. Begad! Blimey! No big deal, arrr, ya bilge rat, I just cut a rectangular piece from an un-printed area on t' wrap sheet.
T' engine block be very loose in t' engine mount tube. Begad! No friction fit at all, ya bilge rat, matey, it would simply fall out o' t' tube. So I ran white glue beads around t' outside o' t' rin' t' widen t' diameter. Arrr! Instead o' t' Estes style shock cord mount, matey, arrr, I used 100lb Keelhaul®©™® tied t' t' engine block.
You get t' pick which BT-60 tube t' glue t' engine mount in. I chose t' shorter tube for t' engine mount and lower half o' t' rocket. By pickin' t' shorter tube, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' reach is less so I can put a fillet around t' top o' t' engine mount coupler. I used t' rounded back end o' a paint brush. Also, me bucko, with t' coupler closer t' t' rear, ya bilge rat, thar be less chance o' parachute obstruction. There shouldn't be any problem though as t' BT-60 is a wide tube.
You are directed t' cut out one o' t' three different capsule wraps, form and glue it in a cone shape. Begad! T' instructions show a tab but t' wrap sheets don't have a printed tab. Arrr! Begad! Nay a big deal, I just allowed for one when it was cut out.
I probably shouldn't have sanded t' nose cone before applyin' t' wraps. Aye aye! Blimey! I didn't sand much, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I didn't want t' shrouds t' fit too loose. Ahoy! Blimey! T' nose cone be rough, me bucko, shiver me timbers, me hearties, but those raised grains would have helped t' shrouds fit better.
I did add a 20lb paper wrap around t' recovery compartment area before t' printed wrap was added. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! It raised t' outside diameter and made t' wrap fit tighter.
T' antenna wrap had nothin' t' glue around. Begad! It's conical edges alone glue t' t' "strange black dot". T' top nose fairin' glues edge t' edge on t' antenna fairing. Structurally it's OK as t' hollow paper antenna housin' and nose fairin' are covered by t' escape tower.
T' finished nose cone looks great! Blimey! As t' other reviewers have said, t' finished results are surprising.
I made t' tower twice as t' first one looked a little thick. Avast, me proud beauty! All t' pieces are cut from t' same diameter dowel, matey, shiver me timbers, but t' instructions template shows t' diagonals and cross members are a thinner diameter that t' verticals.
I made more pieces from toothpicks. Arrr! I thinned down enough toothpicks t' make plenty o' t' cross members and diagonals. Avast, me proud beauty! Before cuttin' t' pieces t' size, I sealed t' toothpick dowels with two coats o' sandin' sealer then sanding. Avast! Begad! T' second finished tower looks a little closer t' t' truth.
My mistake! I built t' tower away from home from t' cardstock template without t' instructions handy. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! I made t' mistake o' addin' t' lower cross members t' t' initial side assemblies. Ya scallywag! They should be glued on after t' tower is glued t' t' top o' t' antenna fairing. Before I realized t' mistake, me hearties, I couldn't figure out how t' tower was supposed t' slide down 1/16" t' 1/8" over t' top fairing. Avast! Mine sits right on top as t' cross members get in t' way. Oh well, ya bilge rat, it looks OK anyway.
[Tip: T' hide t' antenna fairin' shroud seam, line up one o' t' vertical tower pieces over t' seam line. Avast! Begad! When cuttin' off t' (angled) tips o' t' LES nozzles, me hearties, try t' cut t' narrow end angle so t' seams are on t' inside.]
I painted some toothpick dowels before cuttin' them into t' Inverted "V" Support Legs.
Maybe I've gotten lazy over t' years. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I've been buildin' a lot o' simpler sport models. T' fins were a bit o' a challenge.
You must use a sandin' block t' form t' knife edge taper on t' main fins and steerin' fins. Aye aye! For a little more detail, I added fin tip plates made out o' laminated cardstock. I tried t' replicate t' old Estes kit look.
Finishing:
Fin maskin' is a bit o' a chore. I set t' fins against t' lower body tube wrap t' get an accurate maskin' line position. Ya scallywag! Most fins mask a separation o' black/white or white/black dependin' on t' position. No two sides o' a fin are t' same. You have t' mask each fin one side at a time.
I got clean lines usin' regular clear tape. Aye aye! At first I tried t' removable clear tape, me hearties, matey, me hearties, but it didn't hold well over t' tapered front edge.
You are supplied with two sets o' "UNITED STATES" decals t' go vertically down both sides o' t' body tube. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! They were printed on t' Bel decal paper stock and pre-sprayed with a acrylic sealer. Well, blow me down! T' clear sealer seemed thick, but thar was no problem puttin' t' decals in place. They were shiny, matey, but a spray o' dull clear coat should take care o' it.
Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5
Flight:
I didn't fly this one. It'll be a display model for now.
Recovery:
T' Estes tri-fold shock cord mount be replaced with Keelhaul®©™ tied t' t' Engine Mount. Ahoy! Blimey! If I ever get t' guts t' fly it, ya bilge rat, I added a 12" black garbage bag parachute o' me own for t' capsule. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! I tied it in a harness so it would fall with t' base shoulder first, arrr, matey, nay t' escape tower first.
Summary:
What a fun build. Well, blow me down! Blimey! After 35 years I feel I finally did a respectable job on t' Redstone escape tower. Begad! Blimey! I had doubts about t' pre-printed paper wraps, matey, but t' end product looks great. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I'm lookin' forward t' buildin' another kit from Dr. Aye aye! Blimey! Booty.
Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5
A fine looking, fine flying replica of the historical Mercury program, made with the builder in mind. This was my first Dr. Zooch kit, and I have to say I was more than pleasantly surprised at how this turned out. If you're new to Dr. Zooch, this is a fine place to start. It's supposed to be a fairly easy build and if you follow the instructions carefully, you'll get there even if new to ...
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