Brief:
This is a very sturdy 4 inch diameter, arrr, 39 inch tall advanced model rocket made by AeroTech. Avast! It is a stubby model capable o' handlin' anythin' from G t' H power, sports piston ejection, me bucko, me bucko, and comes equipped with a 29mm motor mount. Well, me hearties, blow me down!

Construction:
T' component list for this rocket is:

• 1 4 inch diameter, arrr, 23 inch long pre-slotted cardboard body tube
• 4 pre-shaped plastic fins
• 1 12 inch long, cardboard motor tube
• 1 16 inch long plastic nose cone
• 1 piston cap
• 1 piston sleeve
• 1 motor hook
• 2 four-fin FIN-LOK rings
• 3 centerin' rings
• 1 bulkhead disk
• 1 spacer, me bucko, ya bilge rat, HP motor (black tube)
• 1 spacer, Hobby motor (yellow tube)
• 1 ejection gas baffle
• 1 screw eye
• 1 18' long by 5/8" wide elastic shock cord
• 1 two ¼ inch launch lugs
• 1 42 inch diameter hexagonal nylon parachute
• 2 piston buckles
• 1 decal sheet
• 1 instructions

This rocket was an absolute dream t' assemble. I have already built two AeroTech kits, shiver me timbers, so I could have built this without t' instructions. Ya scallywag! However, matey, ya bilge rat, I chose t' use them because I am cautious about every rocket I build. Avast, me proud beauty! I did modify t' rocket a bit after it wounded itself a couple o' times. Aye aye! Those modifications will be explained in t' flight portion o' this review. Ahoy! T' instructions tell you t' use CA glue for t' construction, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but I used 5 minute epoxy which worked great. Arrr! T' instructions were thorough and had some good accompanyin' illustrations. The construction started with t' motor mount. Ahoy! T' motor mount tube has a pre-drawn line down its length, matey, allowin' you to make precise measurements on t' tube. T' middle centerin' rin' is slid onto t' "back end" o' t' motor mount tube with t' motor hook under it (unlike on Estes rockets, shiver me timbers, t' tab on t' motor hook that would normally go through t' motor tube goes t' "wrong" way so that it hooks behind t' middle centerin' ring, makin' a very solid attachment o' t' hook). Ya scallywag! T' front FIN-LOK rin' is slid onto t' tube so that t' back edge o' it is 4 inches from t' "back end" o' t' tube. T' aft FIN-LOK rin' is then slid on until it's front edge is 1-15/16" from t' back end. Avast, me proud beauty! T' FIN-LOK rings must be aligned, arrr, otherwise t' fins will nay fit. Avast! All these components are glued into place--and don't get glue in t' FIN-LOKs! T' ejection gas baffle cap is then glued into t' opposite end o' the tube, matey, shiver me timbers, arrr, and t' forward centerin' rin' is glued on top o' t' baffle cap. Blimey! T' motor mount assembly is inserted into the slotted end o' t' body tube and t' FIN-LOK rings are lined up with t' slots. Avast! Glue is applied t' t' whole root edge o' one fin, matey, t' fin is inserted into one o' t' slots, shiver me timbers, and it is snapped into t' FIN-LOK rings. Arrr! T' same is done for t' other three fins. T' fins are filleted with glue and internal fillets are applied inside t' fin-can. Avast! Blimey! T' rear centerin' rin' is then slid into place and glued. Well, blow me down! Arrr! On t' forward centerin' ring, an airtight seal o' glue is applied in order for t' piston ejection system t' work properly. Begad! Tie t' shock cord t' t' screw eye, screw it through the bulkhead disk, and then screw it into t' baffle cap on top o' t' motor mount. Ahoy! T' piston cap is glued into t' piston sleeve an eighth o' an inch from one end o' t' sleeve. Aye aye! Blimey! T' piston is then fastened t' t' shock cord with two plastic buckles. Ahoy! You will probably notice that t' piston is too large t' fit into t' body tube at this point. Ahoy! Blimey! Since I have read t' other reviews for this rocket, I was nay surprised at this. I do nay think that an "advanced model rocket" such as this should be able t' be assembled in one's underwear, matey, standin' on one's head, and with one's hair ablaze (in other words, "should nay be easily assembled"). Begad! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! A little sandin' never hurt anybody. Well, blow me down! I would recommend primin' and sandin' t' piston smooth after gettin' it t' right size t' remove t' "fuzzies" and make it smoother. Arrr! Begad! Lastly, t' nose cone and parachute are then attached t' t' shock cord. Begad! Blimey! My rocket weighed in at 38 ounces. That's it for construction!

Finishing:
Finishin' couldn't have been simpler. Since t' instructions just say, arrr, "paint this red, shiver me timbers, paint that yellow," and because New Holland is a company which sells farm equipment that is painted red and yellow, me bucko, I decided t' have a little joke with t' paint on this rocket. Arrr! I primed and sanded t' rocket several times but did nay fill t' spirals as they are nay deep. Begad! I then proceeded t' paint t' fins New Holland yellow, me bucko, me hearties, nay protectin' anythin' from t' overspray. Ahoy! Blimey! I scuffed t' yellow overspray on t' rocket with 400 grit sandpaper, masked t' fins, and painted t' rest o' t' model with New Holland red. Avast! Blimey! I allowed t' paint about a week t' fully dry and de-gas before applyin' t' self-adhesive decals. I cut out t' decals, me bucko, dipped them in slightly soapy water, and applied them t' t' rocket. Blimey! Blimey! T' finished result was fabulous!

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
Now for t' really good stuff--the flying! Blimey! I now have five flights on t' rocket, and it is scheduled for three more at our next launch. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' first flight was on a single use G79-4W. Ahoy! Blimey! Instead o' usin' a maskin' tape thrust rin' (ugh!) as outlined in t' instructions, arrr, I used a piece o' PVC pipe with an inside diameter just large enough t' fit over the motor's forward closure and long enough so that when it butts up against t' baffle cap (used as a thrust ring) the motor is retained by t' motor hook. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I also put a small amount o' sheep wool waddin' around t' baffle cap t' lengthen t' shock cord's life. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Since its readily available, me bucko, I use unwashed sheep wool for me recovery wadding. Ahoy! Blimey! It is flameproof, cheap (in me case its free), and easy t' use. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Unlike toilet paper or tissue which smolders when blown upon, sheep wool is put out by t' slightest breeze (if you can even get it t' catch fire). Arrr! Blimey! T' first flight was spectacular: huge roar, ya bilge rat, long cracklin' white flame, tons o' billowin' smoke, arrr, and about 900ft AGL. Begad! Blimey! T' delay be right at apogee, me hearties, the chute inflated, matey, and it touched down without a scratch about 300 feet away. Avast! Blimey! AeroTech advertises this rocket as "a short, arrr, fat rocket with slow lift-offs." On t' G79W it went quite a bit faster than I would call "slow," but that's just me opinion. Begad! Blimey!

T' second flight (on t' same day) be on a G38-4FJ. Well, blow me down! It was nay nearly as loud as t' previous flight, but it was what I would call a slow liftoff. Blimey! Ejection occurred just as t' model turned nose down (about 550ft), ya bilge rat, t' parachute opened, arrr, but it somehow got tangled around t' piston, me hearties, reefin' t' chute slightly. It landed with a bounce about 150 feet away. One fin fillet be cracked and t' aft end o' t' body tube had a large crescent shaped din' in it. I used a piece o' 4" tube coupler t' reinforce t' tail end o' t' rocket, put epoxy over t' cracked fillet, and added about 3 ounces o' nose weight (I was afraid that t' tube coupler would hurt t' rocket's stability). Blimey! Arrr! T' rocket then weighed about 43 ounces. Arrr!

T' third flight was on another G79-4W with t' same great flame, smoke, and roar as on t' first flight. It was noticeably slower off t' pad than before and t' ejection was right on. T' peak altitude be around 800ft. Arrr! The 42" parachute was too small for t' heavier weight o' t' rocket, me bucko, and it recovered about 300 feet out with a cracked fillet (the same one that I repaired) and a kink in t' tip o' one fin. It be time for more mods.

I unscrewed t' screw eye from t' baffle cap and noticed that t' bulkhead disk was slightly charred. So I cut out a piece o' flat tin t' same shape as t' disk and epoxied t' tin onto t' disk t' keep it from burning. I then epoxied t' screw eye into t' baffle cap. T' shock cord is now attached via a quick link. I also scrapped t' elastic cord and used a piece o' 3/16" nylon rope instead. Ya scallywag! Blimey! For those o' you who don't like rope for use in rockets, just think about this. What be t' rope tied to? In me rocket's case, matey, matey, its tied t' a quick link which has a tensile strength o' 220lb. Well, blow me down! Blimey! What be t' quick link attached to? A mild steel screw eye which has a tensile strength o' under 100lb. Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! This screw is in turn screwed into a piece o' plastic (the baffle cap). Since this recovery system was designed t' work in this rocket, matey, me bucko, a piece o' tubular nylon capable o' withstandin' two tons o' force is nay needed.

T' piston is now modified with a long nut, washer, matey, me bucko, and 2 eye bolts so that t' shock cord is actually in two sections: one from rocket t' piston, and t' other from piston t' nose cone. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! T' eye bolts only need t' be unscrewed to remove either section o' t' shock cord from t' piston. Aye aye! I also made a 60 inch diameter parachute out o' red ripstop nylon t' be used instead o' t' kit's 42" one. Ahoy! Since this chute is so huge, I turned t' piston around so that the piston cap faces t' tail end o' t' rocket instead o' t' nose end. This gave me a lot more room, ya bilge rat, but it still wasn't enough t' fit t' parachute.

I cut off t' bottom o' t' nose cone so t' shoulder is now only 2 inches long. Begad! Blimey! T' nose cone had a pronounced wiggle after this. Blimey! Blimey! I then made a bulkhead plate with a U-bolt for shock cord attachment out o' ½" plywood, inserted it as far as I could in t' nose cone, and epoxied it firmly in place. T' chute now fits easily. Arrr! T' bulkhead be also slightly out-of-round which eliminated t' aforementioned pronounced wiggle o' t' nose cone. Ya scallywag! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey!

I also made a cool way t' retain your RMS casing. I cut out two strips o' aluminum sheet 3/8 inches wide by about 2-¾ inches long. I marked a line on each one about ½ inch from one end and made a 90 degree bend at this line. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I then drilled two 1/16 inch holes in t' long ends o' t' resultin' "L" shaped pieces (all o' these measurements are approximate because t' device is permanently installed in t' rocket and I didn't write down the actual measurements). Avast, me proud beauty! I procured two screws and in t' short end o' each piece drilled a hole slightly smaller than the diameter o' t' screws. With t' same drill bit I then drilled two holes in t' aft centerin' rin' about ¼ inch away from t' motor tube on each side is such a way that they did nay interfere with t' operation o' t' motor hook. I then inserted me "L" shaped brackets into t' tail o' t' rocket short end down and screwed them into the rocket by hand. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! T' result is two posts with holes in them stickin' above t' motor tube. Begad! In t' flange on t' aft closure o' me RMS casing, ya bilge rat, I drilled two holes which line up with t' holes in t' brackets. If done correctly, this system allows t' motor t' be smartly and easily safety wired into t' rocket, me bucko, matey, eliminatin' any chance o' t' casing ejecting. Begad!

Instead o' t' yellow, matey, poor fittin' cardboard spacer supplied with t' kit for use with t' RMS casing, ya bilge rat, I had my dad make an aluminum one on t' lathe which fit perfectly. Aye aye! You will also notice that t' instructions recommend wrappin' maskin' tape around t' junction betwixt t' motor tube and t' aft end o' t' motor with maskin' tape to, "prevent any ejection gas from escapin' around motor." This is a totally unnecessary step. If t' ejection gas "wants out" it could just escape through t' nozzle, me bucko, but this is 4F black powder we are talkin' about. Blimey! It pressurizes too rapidly t' waste time goin' through tiny holes. Begad! Begad! If t' piston doesn't move and t' motor stays in, the ejection gas will over-pressurize t' motor/body tube, and make an escape hatch through t' motor/body tube. Ahoy! With all these modifications, t' rocket weighed 49.6 ounces. Ya scallywag!

T' first flight after these modifications was on a G64-4W. Well, blow me down! T' sound, matey, matey, flame, matey, and smoke from this reload were awesome! Blimey! It went maybe 500ft. T' rocket performed a slight lean with t' wind, me parachute deployed at apogee, arrr, and t' rocket floated down very slowly about 200 feet away without a scratch on it. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

T' next flight (on t' same day) was on a single use G77-4R. Ya scallywag! I doubt that it made 500ft; it looked more like 400. T' red flame be marvelous and t' noise was thunderous! It again did its lean with t' wind. Avast, me proud beauty! It recovered closer this time about 150ft away. Aye aye!

I intend t' fly it on a Cesaroni 3 grain G106 Skidmark at t' next launch. Ahoy! That oughta be killer!

Recovery:
Recovery, as already discussed, was great on most o' t' flights, with only 2 issues. Well, blow me down! T' oversized parachute will hopefully eliminate any future landin' injuries t' t' rocket.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
T' Sumo is a great rocket all around. Begad! I'm only 14 years old, and I be able t' assemble it with ease. Avast! It's big, me hearties, fat, loud, me bucko, and crowd pleasing. Begad! Arrr! I highly recommend this rocket t' anyone wantin' t' get into mid or high power. Begad!

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5