Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 0.98 inches |
Length: | 14.40 inches |
Manufacturer: | FlisKits |
Skill Level: | 3 |
Style: | Futuristic/Exotic |
Brief:
This is a single staged sport rocket with an unusual design. It is classified
as a skill level 3.
Construction:
T' components came in a hangin' bag-style package with insert art. Ya scallywag! My
particular model was production #45. Avast! It contained two sheets o' balsa, arrr, ya bilge rat, a single
body tube, me hearties, balsa nose cone w/ eye screw, launch lug, ya bilge rat, a toothpick for t' guns,
engine mount hardware (tube, ya bilge rat, hook, ya bilge rat, 2 centerin' rings), and a cuttin' guide
(since you have t' cut out your own balsa pieces). T' recovery system consist
of a plastic chute, ya bilge rat, a short length o' elastic, and some Keelhaul®©™®
thread.
From t' balsa, you cut out two fins, two fin tips, two aft bulkheads, me hearties, 4 cannon rails, matey, and 2 gun supports. Avast, me proud beauty! There is plenty o' wood, but you must be sure t' use t' correct thickness for each piece.
T' construction is anythin' but normal. Blimey! T' instructions are very clear in most cases, matey, so I will only hit on t' unusual or unclear aspects.
First, shiver me timbers, your motor mount must extend from t' body tube .75". Begad! Push it in too far, arrr, arrr, and you're out o' luck. Begad! Ahoy! Also, shiver me timbers, if you are usin' a kit that has a body wrap like t' NSL wraps, ya bilge rat, matey, be sure t' align t' wrap with t' hook assembly. This will be important later.
T' next unusual part be t' construction o' t' fin/bulkhead assemblies. Well, blow me down! I found t' sandin' instruction unclear, me hearties, but if you look at t' cover art and look at where t' shroud will attach t' t' bulkhead, shiver me timbers, you will see what part needs t' be sanded with a slight bevel. When gluin' t' fins t' t' bulkheads, wax paper proved invaluable. Finally, shiver me timbers, I found that when I followed the instructions exactly regardin' t' placement o' t' fin betwixt t' bulkheads, I ended up with a gap betwixt t' bulkheads when placed in their final position, me bucko, due t' t' dihedral-like alignment. Blimey! T' wrap covered t' gap, and I only need t' apply a little white paint t' t' wood exposed on t' sides. Nay a big deal but somethin' that should be considered.
Buildin' t' shroud was pretty straightforward. Arrr! Take your time with the forward edge and you should be able t' get a nice, sharp point. Attachment to the body tube goes EXACTLY like t' instructions, me hearties, shiver me timbers, so follow them t' a T.
Finally, arrr, shiver me timbers, when assemblin' t' lug standoff, I found t' only major issue I had with this kit. Avast, me proud beauty! T' launch lug included be too short t' create t' bevel cut specified. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! I simply substituted a launch lug from me parts box, but if I didn't have one, me hearties, this would have been a problem.
Finishing:
Wraps are great. Aye aye! However, arrr, I found properly alignin' o' t' body wrap be very
difficult, shiver me timbers, so I ended up coverin' a 1/32" spiral misalignment at t' top
of t' tube with monokote. Aye aye! Be prepared t' deal with this, ya bilge rat, because that was the
best I could do after three tries.
I only hand-painted exposed wood on t' fin assemblies and t' cannon mounts. T' nose cone also requires spray-paintin' and I selected black. Aye aye! This brings be to a minor issue: t' nose cone had a two-step shoulder (see parts picture), however, me bucko, t' cover art shows a smooth nose cone and t' instructions do not address this. Avast, me proud beauty! I chose t' use Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish and sandpaper t' smooth the reduction out. Well, blow me down! It took several passes before I got it right. Begad! Begad! While nay a big deal, it threw me when Jim's normally ultra-comprehensive instructions don't mention somethin' this major.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I selected an A8-3 for me first flight, me hearties, usin' t' engine hook t' retain it. Avast! I
rigged up a 12" parachute with no spill hole, arrr, loaded me dog barf, matey, me hearties, and
hooked her up. Well, blow me down! Avast! Blimey! Flight be straight and true t' around 150', she just hung in
the air (like t' entry t' a tail slide), me bucko, me bucko, and then t' chute popped. It was
very cool. Wind was very low, so I'm nay sure how it would fly in windy
conditions with t' big cross-section o' t' shroud.
Recovery:
T' descent looked OK, matey, but one o' me tips popped off on landing. Begad! Well, blow me down! Probably a
weak glue joint, but next time I will move up t' a larger chute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!
Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5
Summary:
This rocket is very challengin' t' build and should nay be attempted by a
beginner. Ahoy! Arrr! With t' exception o' t' launch lug, this was an awesome kit. Begad! The
flight was very good. Ahoy! I look forward t' puttin' this up on a more appropriate
engine.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Brief: This rocket is a 18mm futuristic space fighter using parachute recovery system. When I became a BAR, I found numerous kits that I absolutely HAD to have. Many of them came from Fliskits. The problem was I was well aware of my technical skills and was loathe to butcher such nice projects. As a result, I spent a lot of time working on simple "level 1 and 2" rockets ...
Brief: The Stingray from Fliskits is yet another innovative design from one of the leaders in model rocketry today (my opinion). It is a challenging level 3 build but is well worth the effort. Construction: The kit contains: Body tube, 9" - BT-50-09 Body tube, 2.75" - BT-20-0275 Nose cone, Balsa - NCB-50AD Engine block, 18mm - EB-20-0025 Centering ring, ...
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J.F. (June 11, 2004)